A short but fine adventure by Bron Read more
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  • Day 11

    A Busy and Damp Day

    August 30, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Today, the last full driving day, we were catching the 08:15 ferry to Heimaey, the main island in the Westerman Islands, just off Iceland's south coast. So set off at 06:00 so we could stop off along the way at the black beach at Reynisfjara, with its sea stacks and basalt cliffs. Despite the mist/drizzle, the breeze and the crashing waves it was beautiful, and oddly enough at 06:15 we were the only ones on the beach. We also stopped off at Skagafoss waterfall as it was right by the road and got a soaking from the spray as we tried to get as close as we could. That was two soaking and it was only 07:30.

    By the time we boarded the ferry the wind had really got up and it made for an uncomfortable 40 minute crossing with the little ferry pitching and rolling all the way to Heimaey. It is supposed to be a beautiful island but through the mist we could see very little of it. We had a tour booked but cancelled it due to the weather and instead went to a museum telling the story of the 1973 eruption that was so large it increased the island's size by 20%. In the centre of the museum was a house that had been completely engulfed by the pumice spewed out. Some of the items inside had actually survived, giving it a much more real feeling.

    The first stop after arriving back on the mainland was the Seljalandsfoss waterfall, the angle of which and a shallow cave behind it meaning that you can walk round the back of it, though the spray means you still get pretty damp wet. It was areally interesting seeing it from behind but as we came out it started raining very heavily, so much so I had to change my trousers as they were completely dripping.

    The heavy rain continued all the way to tonight's hotel, so we knocked on the head the other things we had planned and concentrated on getting dry and drying our dripping wet clothes.

    Weather: 13 degrees, heavy mist then heavy train

    Mileage: 135 miles
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  • Day 12

    Final Drive

    August 31, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    This morning had to drop the car off in Reykjavik for 10:00, so had a whistle stop tour of Geysir on the way, you can't come to Iceland and not see Strokkur blowing it's top.

    For the first time in 11 days I encountered heavy traffic entering Reykjavik, well first time I've seen any traffic at all really in the whole of Iceland. It was raining hard most of the day so spent a fair chunk of it at the Perlan museum. Which showcased everything Iceland, from volcanos, to glaciers, to an ice cave, to waterfalls, to the northern lights. It was really interactive and very well put together.

    The evening was off to a sports bar to watch Arsenal v Aston Villa. The pub must have had at least 40 local Arsenal fans watching the game, was like watching in a north London pub, great atmosphere and obviously winning 2-1 helped.

    Weather: 13 degrees, heavy rain

    Mileage: 75 miles
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  • Day 13

    Walking, No Driving

    September 1, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Was strange today not to be packing and heading out early, missing the driving already.

    Spent the day sightseeing, visiting the Lutharian church, the concert hall and the old port which is now a mix of shops, restaurants and bars. So having made the effort to get there it would have been rude not to have tried some happy hour cocktails.

    Got chatting to a local, middle aged guy in one of the bars and after telling him of all the places we'd been to on the trip he said that we'd seen more of Iceland than he had. Later in the conversation I'd said that though we travel a lot I'd never actually been to the British Museum in London. To which he said 'oh I've been there 3 or 4 times'. Interesting how you never have time for stuff on your own door step!

    Weather: 13 degrees, showers in the afternoon
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  • Day 14

    A Shandy or Two

    September 2, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    I'd booked a walking tour for this morning at 10:30, so we took it easy, had breakfast, took it a bit more easy and then headed out. I always seem to feel more tired though the less I do.

    The walking tour was really interesting, not so much the buildings and monuments but more the social history. Such as in Iceland almost everyone is related to the first settler Ingólfr Arnarson who arrived in 874 which means everyone is your cousin! So to marry someone they need to be at least a 3rd cousin or more distant. They even have a genealogy app containing everyone's family tree for you to check.

    After the walk we went for an all you can eat and drink in 2 hours lunch, which at £43 each must have been the cheapest place to eat in Iceland. Needless to say the place was pretty busy, surprisingly the food was excellent and we made a pretty good stab at getting way more than our monies worth.

    We chatted to a couple of women, Sandra and Maggie (that's the easy version of their names) on the table next to us during the lunch who then took us to a great little bar round the corner for happy hour which then stretched on into the evening. Got back to the hotel about 9pm and we still had a voucher for a commentary drink at the hotel bar. It was the last thing I needed at that point as we'd started speed drinking at 2pm, but it would have been rude to have turned down the hospitality!

    Weather: 13 degrees, sunny intervals
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  • Day 15

    In Summary

    September 3, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Off home today on the 10:15 flight, a taxi to the airport is £136, so we took the bus for a bargain £31 each!

    Everything in Iceland has been expensive and even the things that aren't imported like fish and lamb were still expensive. However, it is a stunning place to visit, the empty roads, the expanse and clarity of the views, the air quality and the people. Everyone we met were friendly and spoke great English.

    It's taken me 30 years to persuade Carol to come here, because of the cold, but even she is a convert now, so that is saying something.

    All in all we drove 1,833 miles over 11 days (ave 166 miles per day), which is a fair distance for what I thought of as a little island. However, the drives were broken up with so many things to see and do along the way. Though the driving itself, up gravelled mountain passes, through glacial valleys, back and forwards along fjords and single lane two-way tunnels was an experience in itself.

    Weather: 13 degrees, sunny.
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