Mumbai, India- Pr. Wales Museum, History

The Prince of Wales Museum was a pleasant surprise in that we didn’t expect a large museum filled with an incredible variety of artifacts dating back 2000 years. Also interesting was the fact thatRead more
The Prince of Wales Museum was a pleasant surprise in that we didn’t expect a large museum filled with an incredible variety of artifacts dating back 2000 years. Also interesting was the fact that none of these precious and non-replaceable relics were in air-conditioned environments. Rather they all were in warm if not hot rooms. We guess that if they are always in these conditions rather than changing ones (cold and hot depending on times of the year) then they are adapted and last. Who knows?
The museum was established during the early 20th century and considered as a heritage structure in Mumbai because of its admirable architecture. There are several collections of ancient artworks, sculptures and artifacts textiles and Krishna and Indian traditional costumes. It also has 2000 rare miniature paintings. We enjoyed our time there and tried to cover as much as we could in our hour or so of running around this enormous museum. Don't miss the 3 photos of The Buddha Within (very cool ) and the other pieces of art that stood out ot us and we photographed. Another place worth coming back to!Read more
Today we took the “Jewish Chronicles” tour of Mumbai. We discovered there are at least nine functioning Synagogues here, so we decided it would be great to visit a few and learn about their Congregations. We had a great tour guide that had a wealth of knowledge about the individual Synagogues even though she was Muslim, not Jewish. We say “functioning” because they have a Congregation and some Services albeit some are only once a week. There may be more (i.e., Chabad) but we only were looking at the ones that were open every day to the public for visits.
So how did there get to be at least nine Synagogues and none of them were repurposed building or simple storefronts? They were all originally built as Synagogues. We visited three. We needed to have our passports with us as the ship told us the Synagogues security require them. It’s the world we live in.
The first Jewish area began in 1796 and eventually over 22,000 Jews were in this area during the beginning of the 20th Century. What eventually happened to this Congregation and all the others we visited was that they lost many members that went to Israel in 1948 or to Europe where there were better opportunities for many of these educated Jews. Currently there are 3,500 Jews in Mumbai and about 5,000 in all of India. Almost all of them are from Sephardic backgrounds. There are some “Black” Iraqi Jews that began to settle here in 1820 as well as mostly Indian Jews.
Magen David Synagogue established in 1861, is an Orthodox Sephardic Congregation in a Victorian style building with two Jewish Day school built next door was our first visit (Note: the first Synagogue in India is in Cochin but you will have to wait 3 days to see that one). The schools were named E.E.E. Sassoon and Sir Jacob Sassoon. Unfortunately, with so few Jews here, the students are 95% Muslim. Interesting the name is Sassoon (as in Vidal). The Sassoon (Hebrew for joy) family is from Iraq where they left for India, where they built their wealth. Jacob Sassoon is the grandson of David and a very long line of Sassoon’s (I spent an hour on the family tree just to figure out all the many Sassoon, some of which were Rabbis). They also built Synagogues in Shanghai and Hong Kong and were considered part of the British aristocracy. The Synagogue is still very important in the Community and provides assistance to many Jews and non-Jews and sponsored many social welfare causes and construction in India. The school is 95% non-Jews but continues to operate as a high-end private school.
This was a moving experience as we joined the Morning Service where everyone wore tefillin and tallism just like how I grew up in NY and we stayed through the hakafah and the reading of the Torah. The morning Service could have been anywhere except for the fact that the Siddur was in Hebrew and a local Indian dialect rather than English. The Rabbi is from Israel although much of the Service was run by lay leaders. One of the Congregants told us all about the history and survival of this Synagogue and how these days the funding is mostly though a small legacy as donations.
They have Services every day (I counted exactly 10 congregants). We waited for them to open the Torah and although it changed our timing for other visits, it was worth the wait. Not only was it beautiful to sit in the pews and listen to the Service but it was nice to see they have a very young Rabbi lead the Service (he is 21 years old). The Torah is 165 years old and came from Baghdah and beautifully read although I didn’t fit their need for Kohen or Levite and we left before they did the last Aliyah.
They believe heavily in giving back to the community through offering their resources and school rooms to the community for activities and events.The perimeter of the Sanctuary was covered in bags of donations and ingredients for meals to be donated to the needy. The entire experience was so amazing how we were in a Synagogue in India and it felt like we were back home or anywhere there is a Congregation in the World.Read more
Our next stop was the Tiphaereth Israel Synagogue which is an Orthodox Bene Israel Synagogue settled in Mumbai in 1884 (and the largest of the three groups of Indian Jews, Bene Israel). There were nine Torahs and although only one is still in condition of being used every week, they were all beautifully adorned and I had the mitzvah of being able to touch it and feel its presence. The ner tamid and the drop lanterns which are still lit with oil were unique and beautiful.
There were 200 members by 1923 when it was refurbished. There are less than that number at this time but they still have weekly Services although the Chazan recently left and is being lay led. We were treated to a wonderful experience of speaking one on one with the grandson of the original founder of the Synagogue. Benjamin Abraham Chincholkar is currently the VP but also the all-around lay leader, major supporter, maintenance person, tour guide, historian, etc. His grandfather had founded, built, paid for, designed, and provided for the expansion.
Now in his 80’s, he has been taking care of this jewel his entire life. He told us wonderful stories with such warmth and feeling of ownership like about how his grandfather purchased the first Torah for 1000 rubes in 1939 (about $8,000). Impressing how busy the Jewish community was, he also told us about the Chazan who had done 43 circumcisions and 72 marriages by 1941. He finished by telling us about the special occasions where 150 congregants come to the Synagogue vs 10-15 people per week and how sad it is because he has no plan in place for once he retires (his children live in US and Canada). He is hoping for a miracle and I’m sure he will get one to carry the Torah into the future.Read more
The Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue was built in 1884 by Jacob Sassoon. Incorporating outstanding stained glass, English tiles and high ceilings, this Synagogue was the most impressive of the three we had seen today. The synagogue’s decorative interiors featured Victorian stained glass windows and rich Burmese teakwood furnishings and staircase. They share a Rabbi (with the first Synagogue) and have Services on Friday and Saturday with approximately 30-50 Congregants. We enjoyed the visit there although we didn’t get a guided tour but when I asked the caretaker and he confirmed I was Jewish , he was happy to allow me to see the Torah. They were selling some interesting books and Judaica (surprisingly the other two did not have a gift shop!).
According to the community’s folklore, the Bene Israel Jews here are descended from “seven black couples from a country to the north,” the sole survivors of a shipwreck off the Konkan coast near Navagaon (about 30 miles south of Bombay). An interesting story part of this story as to the community’s origins has to do with the centrality of the prophet Elijah in their name and tradition producing the theory that their ancestors lived in the Holy Land in the time of Elijah (eighth century BCE) and that the “country to the north” was actually Israel.Read more
Our last stop, albeit not Jewish per se was a visit to one of the slums in Mumbai. For those that saw the hit winner of 8 Academy Awards movie from 2008, SlumDog Millionaire, the sights and sounds and activities in this movie are replicated in real life here 15 years later albeit we understand it much better now (Note: READ ON to see what happens).
The area is very depressed, but the people make it work with their little but organized homes, TVs, sports for the kids, shopping, and many Hindu Temples. The motto of the Hindus are “right conduct, right knowledge and right speech” and all the people we have met seemed to follow that. It is sad that so few move up from poverty, there are still so many. In the past year 150,000 moved out of poverty. Great right? But there are so many millions still in dire straits even though the government helps them with housing that cost $4/month, free education, and healthcare. The good news is that life expectancy that was 31 in 1947 is now in the 60s and 70s for those that live with less stress.
We both expected crowds with pushing and shoving (there ARE 24 million people), various bad smells (which were minimal and offset by the smells of great food), communication issues (there were few), and our expectations were low as a result. BUT we both enjoyed Mumbai and expect to come back to visit some day.
Azharuddin Ismail, who played a young Salim in Slumdog Millionaire at 10 years old, now 25, has had to sell his upscale flat and move back with his family into the slums but is working to change his life again.Read more
We’re going to GO to GOA on Karen’s birthday!
Goa was a beautiful place with flora and fauna (near a rainforest) on the coast of Southwest India and different from much of India. It is known for its beaches and is a major tourist destination from all over the world. It is a mere 1429 square miles with 1.5 million people (out of India’s 1.5 billion).
SUSAGADO is the word in Konkani that describes this city. The people are laid back but not lazy, just mellow and … overall peaceful. They want people to know that they know how to balance life and not focus on money too much but just enough since they value lifestyle much more. They say they believe in “Capitalism with a social conscience”. The per capita GNP is 3 times everywhere else in India. In other words, people from all over India come here to work and send money home since they make three times as much here.
The wealth comes from tourism, mineral mining (iron, limestone, manganese, bauxite) and trade. Goa has 2 international airports a very good road, and rail system too as well as infrastructure of telephones systems and electric utilities, better than most of India. Education is very important here and literacy is almost 100% along with top Universities and medical schools here.
An interesting history in Goa in that the Portuguese maintained the area as an overseas state from the 16th century for 456 years until 1961 when it became part of India. Although the East India Company acquired most of India, they did not in Goa which maintained Portuguese and westernized very early in the 1500s and brought Catholicism there.
We received a long explanation of the Goa Civil Code/Family Law … seemed very important to our Guide. They eliminated Sati, where if a husband died the wife killed herself by fire. It’s all about when a man dies what happens to his property (who fight for what) or worse what happens when they get a diverse. The details doesn’t matter but it is interesting how many homes are left due to inheridence issues , empty. Made no sense to us.
Europeans for most of history got their spices from India and many are produced in Goa. A major town here is named for Vasco de Gama for discovering the path to India in 1498 (when Columbus went the wrong way and ended up in America, thinking it was India and named the natives Indians). The Prime Minister of Portugal happens to be Goan and all Goans from as of the date of Independence (about 600,000 people) maintain both Goan and Portuguese passports and feel these strong roots to Portugal. As for religions, Buddhism came here in the 2rd century for about a 1000 yrs and then the Portuguese and Indian (Hindu) influence. The people speak Konkani, Portuguese, English as well as Marathi (popular Indian dialect for the entire region). Sadly, Goa used to have a large Jewish settlement, but Portuguese colonial rulers employed an inquisition from 1560-1820 where thousands were burnt alive for their beliefs. Goa is very much a religion tolerant nation now and Israelis often vacation there these days.
G20 signs are all over India. The workshops located in many Indian cities are to create international economic cooperation. It plays an important role in shaping and strengthening global architecture and governance on all major international economic issues. India holds the Presidency of the G20 from December 1, 2022 to November 30, 2023.
The theme of India’s G20 Presidency - “Vasudhaiva Kutumbakam” or “One Earth · One Family · One Future” - is drawn from the ancient Sanskrit text of the Maha Upanishad. Essentially, the theme affirms the value of all life – human, animal, plant, and microorganisms – and their interconnectedness on the planet Earth and in the wider universe. The theme also spotlights LiFE (Lifestyle for Environment), with its associated, environmentally sustainable and responsible choices, both at the level of individual lifestyles as well as national development, leading to globally transformative actions resulting in a cleaner, greener and bluer future.
After a fun welcome, our tour included a drive around Goa where we got to see some beautiful homes (see photos) and some that needed work because they were abandoned and others that were more simple. From there we went to the Se Cathedral and Basilica of Born Jesus. The Basilica and the Cathedral across the street (see white Church and interior shots) were built in the 17th century. From there we went to the Hindu Temple, Shri Shantadurga Saunsthan, a private temple complex belonging to the Goud Saraswat Brahman Samaj. It is dedicated to Shantadurga, the goddess who mediates between Vishnu and Shiva (no interior photos allowed). There is a main temple and three smaller temples of other deities which have been built on three sides of the temple. The temple consists of a collection of pyramidal roofs with a dome. Visitors could only walk around the perimeter inside as the “inner” areas were just for Priests.Read more
We then went for a tour and lunch at a Spice Market. The smells were incredibly strong and everything tasted as good as it smelled (and looked). Spices from the garden were fresh saffron, lemongrass, pepper, cayenne, cinnamon, bay leaf, cardamon, cashew, nutmeg, mace, vanilla…. (I lost track after that).
You can tell from the video that I was drinking “jungle juice” or locally made alcohol fermented from coconuts, FENI. If you watch the video to the end you will see some surprising reactions. It was HOT and the tour ended with a very COLD cool down!
Great meal and tour of the garden to learn about each spice, see the tree and plants they come from and how they are harvested.Read more
TravelerLoved this. I try to eat lots of tumeric, ginger, and cinnamon in addition to other spices for health reasons. I always think of India as the spice capital. So, you’ll have to educate me on what else I should be consuming.
A one of a kind birthday in Goa, India.
Great Day and Evening ... Wishing "Karren" 120 years with Health, Happiness and Peace.
Mangalore (Mangaluru) is a large port on the West side of India with a population of 750,000 and only 65 sq miles, it is small but very strategic for oil reserves (it is where 2 rivers join the Arabian sea). Unfortunately, they still buy oil to refine from Russia to see to Europe. Mangalore also handles 75% of India’s coffee and cashew and teak exports making it one of the largest container ports in India. It is also known as a location for many call centers that we know and love (do we really love them?). Although it was founded in the 9th Century, the Portuguese were here before it became British ruled in 1799 until Independence in 1947 and has become a major commercial, business, educational and startup hub in India. The landscape we saw was covered in skyscrapers but once out of the city there was a combination of rolling hills, farms, and rivers amongst the Temple we went to visit.
As we traveled far out of town to the Jain Temples in Moodabidri, we learned a lot about the Indian culture and religions. There are 1600 languages and dialects here and that make communication interesting. Most people speak Hindi, English, and Tulu (local language). Mangalore has many Christians but of course there are also Hindus, Buddhists and a preponderance of Jains that came from this area, live here or pilgrimage here. We saw cows roaming the roads and they are worshiped and milked twice a day. They are never slaughtered and there is even an old age home for cows. Don’t ask what happens to them after that, it is very controversial.
Jainism which dates back to the 5th Century has two sects with over 5 million followers and there are 18 Jain Temples in the town we visited. Jain teaches that the path to enlightenment is through nonviolence and reducing harm to living things (including plants and animals) as much as possible. Like Hindus and Buddhists, Jains believe in reincarnation. This cycle of birth, death, and rebirth is determined by one's karma.
The three guiding principles of Jainism, the three jewels, are Right Belief, Right Knowledge and Right Conduct. We heard this over and over wherever we visited in India. The name Jainism derives from the Sanskrit meaning “to conquer” referring to the self- discipline personal battle to gain enlightenment, or omniscience and purity of soul.
We visited the Lord Gommateswara Statue in Karkala and climbed the 212 steps up to see the granite Temple built and the statue carved in the 13th century including the oldest inscriptions of the Marathi language. There are 23 prophets that the Jains believe in (and expect to come back one day) and the statues from the 15th Century are still there for 18 of them. We learned the story of the 2nd son (of 100) of the first prophet, who had a fight with another brother and at the end went to meditate for 12 years. He is honored by the statue we visited. One of the interesting things you get from climbing the uneven 212 steps up to the statue is you tend to focus and think about the steps and focus on the top, all helping you appreciate where you are going. At the same time inhaling more fresh oxygen and exhaling toxins is a healthy and cleansing exercise as you climb to the statue.
Next, we visited the Thousand Pillar Jain Temple in Moodbidri. Built in the 15th-century, Chandranatha Basadi, also known as the Thousand Pillars Basadi is unique in its design and pillars. Here we were introduced to the 1000 hand carved pillars that are ALL different. Each of the thousand pillars is covered with exquisite rock carvings. The perfection of the stone carvings, the symmetry and intrinsic details makes this detailed architecture so interesting. We spent a long time looking at the minute details in the carvings on some of the pillars. When you get past the pillars you reach the bronze image of Lord Chandranatha Swarmi. Any further than that and the next two floors of the Temple are all restricted to monks of the Jain Temple. It was a very interesting experience. Although I know practicing Jains in the U.S., this day gave me a much better appreciation for their history and beliefs.Read more
We visited the Soans farm which started in 1926 as an experiment in irrigation and now has over 30 crops like coconut, pineapple, cashew nut, mango, sapota, vanilla, arcca, bread fruit, banana , jack fruit, cocoa. They also started macadamia, langsat, mangosteen, dragon fruit, abiu and jaboticaba which came from other parts of the world. It also grows many spices including pepper, nutmeg, clove, allspice and cinnamon.
We saw all these fruits, spices and more (I stopped counting at 20). Some great varieties of bamboo are grown here, and we walked among them learning how some grow as fast as a foot a day. They also produce medicines and experiment in and energy healing using dowsing, pyramids, medicine wheel and labyrinths (note: the earth’s magnetic force helps them decide where to plant and what!) There are now over 170 plant types on the property. Along with a very educated guide, we walked around the property to take in the sights of all these trees, bushes, plants and to experience all the smells and beauty. Oh yes, we also had the best fresh made pineapple juice anywhere. Fun experience.Read more
Traveler
Nice. Be safe & vigilant