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Camino Frances
  • Charlotte Birch

Camino Frances

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  • Début du voyage
    7 septembre 2023
    Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur

    Departure Day/Opening Day

    7 septembre 2023, États Unis ⋅ 🌩️ 91 °F

    A coincidence that Cap One's lounge at IAD (which I get free access to thru my card) opened on our departure day? I think not! What a great way to launch our adventure. Free food and drink for us not-yet-weary pilgrims! 😉En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur

    Biarritz

    8 septembre 2023, France ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Loonnng day, from a sleepless overnight in Premium Economy (better than standard economy but still...) to the most circuitous trip I've ever taken from one gate of an airport to another, to a four-hour layover and finally to the cool, charming surf town of Biarritz. Walked along beach paths and winding roads, wined and dined at a couple cafes and are now preparing to turn in, missing the recommended watch parties for France v. New Zealand in rugby tonight. I'm OK with that!En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur

    Biarritz, Day 2

    9 septembre 2023, France ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Perfect way to start the day is with a good night's sleep under our belts, a healthy version of Eggs Benedict and the strongest Americano ever! Walked 9+ miles around town, sometimes in circles because the streets here are confusingly windy. A sweaty day (90 degrees and humid), capped by a fresh picnic dinner on our hotel's terrace, which has a (distant) view of the sea.En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur

    St. Jean Pied de Port

    10 septembre 2023, France ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Took a quick taxi to Bayonne then boarded a train for our launch point. Very scenic route, which even some four-legged passengers appreciated. Toodled around St. Jean (tres pittoresque, with some interesting shops and vending machines), checked in with the Pilgrim office to get our first stamp and walked up to the 16th century citadel and around its ramparts for some great views of the town and mountains. Had a Basque Burger (aka bacon cheeseburger) and sangria at a restaurant where we met a few other pilgrims while waiting for the hotel's check-in time. Then had another glass of wine while waiting for the A/C in our room to catch up to the near-90-degree heat -- a final pampering before tomorrow's vigorous hike over the Pyrenees!En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur

    Over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles

    11 septembre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Holy moly-quite a trek! Left at 8 am and encountered our steepest climbs, and rain/thunder, early on so happy to get those challenges under our belt. Rainbows in the first couple hours boded well for our climb. Got coffee and breakfast at an auberge (like a tiny ski lodge) about 7 miles and 2,300 feet elevation in. Total climb today was 4,757 feet spread over 16 miles, and every elevation was rewarded with spectacular views--majestic mountains speckled with cows, sheep, horses, all wearing cowbells--that were all the more special because we arrived on our own two feet. Other highlights: zero noise pollution; friendly co-pilgrims; and sweating so much we only had to use nature's bathroom once. :) Arrived Roncesvalles @ 4 pm to a hotel that's a converted monastery. Great dinner and now expect to sleep soundly!En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur

    Walk to Zubiri

    12 septembre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    14 miles (ish) today, with ascents and descents that were not nearly as steep but still hard because our muscles were a bit tired. A foggy start through charming towns, with plenty of farm animals (and farm poop) en route. Lots of paths through woods which meant fewer vistas but welcome shade. A cafe at the midpoint had an interesting blend of pilgrims and locals, some of whom were enjoying wine at 11 am!

    Zubiri is small but has all the necessities (unlike Roncesvalles, which was a monastery converted to rooms and restaurants). Our hotel, Casa Txantxorena, is an ultra-charming Navarrese mountain home from the 17th century. Our room is where the animals used to stay-pretty nice digs for a cow! Met Belgians, Israelis, Canadians, Australians today, many in it just for the hiking and back-to-basics life.

    Grateful that some of the locals speak English as I can't seem to muster a full sentence in Spanish without pulling out my Google Translate app. Soy una tonta monolingüe Americana!    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
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    Walk to Pamplona

    13 septembre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    A little bit of everything today, including wooded paths along the river, inclines out in the open, cafes for pilgrims, and of course the streets of Pamplona, beginning with the ancient Puenta de Magdalena.

    All the right parts of us were either full or empty when we started out (😉), which helped us make good time. Got a little cocky thinking we had shaved an hour off the walk and then realized we had only arrived at essentially a suburb of Pamplona and had another hour to go. Still, we got to the city in time for the back end of the lunch scene. I resisted getting yet another jamon y queso, opting for other pintxos (tapas, in Basque) instead.

    It's hard to want to walk around a hilly city when you've spent 13 mi on your feet to get there but we saw a few key sites, got our pilgrim stamp and enjoyed *una copa de vino tinto, por favor* at Ernest Hemingway's hang. Apparently, our tiny hotel room overlooks the street where the bulls run, so we're glad to see it but not be here when that happens!    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur

    Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

    14 septembre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Day 4 and I'm already taking some views for granted. But that's okay as I'm enjoying more of the random conversations with other pilgrims. Nancy from L.A., who's married with three kids, one of whom will join her in Leon; Katrina, a fifth grade teacher from Brisbane who is traveling solo; tonight's bartender, who relocated from Madrid after visiting Hotel Jakue on his Camino last year, and Robert from London, who is grieving his girlfriend of 20 years who died in 2022. Lots of people and stories.

    The 15-mile walk itself was rigorous, out of the city and up the mountain where the windmills and pilgrim statues--along with a love/peace/coffee bus run by a couple who only aim to recoup their costs--are, then down a rocky slope and through small towns. We were soooo ready for the finish line. Saw an inviting refuge (aka outdoor bar) when we got to the outskirts of town and were so excited to learn it was actually part of our hotel for the night! It is also an albergue/hostal, so it's been a good place to see and talk to other pilgrims (the Sercotel in Pamplona, not so much!).    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur

    To Estella

    15 septembre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    There was more to Puenta la Reina than we realized but had to make do with seeing it on our way out of town. MB and I enjoyed walking most of today's stage chatting with the aforementioned Nancy from L.A., and we continued to run into other familiar faces (like Patty and Sue from Canada). We were so chatty we missed a turn but a kind Italian pilgrim got our attention and redirected us.

    The day's walk went through fields and vineyards and was fairly gentle. Still, after 14+ miles to Estella--then another mile to our hotel--my feet were really aching and we were drenched from sweat and rain and bordering on hangry. As usual, by the time we cleaned up and sat down at the restaurant adjoining our hotel, the kitchen was closed, not to reopen till 8:30 pm!

    Two other pilgrims staying here were in the same boat so we teamed up with Gayle (Raleigh) and David (somewhere near Leeds) and taxied down to the bottom of town to eat at Bar Le Monde. All was fabulous till we learned there were no taxis to take us home. But hey--what's another mile uphill in sandals?

    One highlight: our hotel offered to do our laundry for us. One lowlight: the dryers here don't really do the job. So we've turned every corner of our room into a drying rack hoping we wont have to pack damp clothes in the morning.

    Estella is not quite as picturesque--larger and more modern. That + rain = fewer pics.    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
    1

    Stage 6: to Los Arcos

    16 septembre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    We had a bit of a head start today because our hotel was on the way out of Estella. We walked with our two new friends, Gail and David, whom you'll see in the photos but probably wouldn't guess is 75 and has walked about a dozen Camino routes.

    The first notable landmark of today's stage is the Fuente del Vino, where the Bodega Irache offers pilgrims a free shell-full of wine for the route ahead. Alas, the tap didn't open till 8 a.m. so we settled for our water.

    We then opted for the less traveled route today, which went through woods and fields and had more modest climbs. We caught breakfast (either the usual potato and egg tortilla or an omelette on a slice of grainy bread) in Luquin at 10 am-ish, where we noted that the trio of Spaniards who always seem to pass us, whistling and humming as they speed past, had fortified themselves with beer and wine. So now we know their secret! Other encounters today included an Australian couple with a 10-month old. The baby either rides on his dad's back or in a sack on mom as she breastfeeds, which she's had to do hourly!

    We arrived in Los Arcos at lunchtime and appreciated the receiving line of goats, chickens and geese that greeted us. Lots of pilgrims gathered at Plaza Santa Maria, just outside the incredibly ornate 12th century church that anchors the town. Our crew enjoyed a *Radler*, which is a refreshing combo of beer and lemonade, and traded contact info as we parted ways. Strange to feel sad saying goodbye to people you have only known 24 hours but you get to know them well in such a short, quality period of time.

    Our hotel is another beautiful rustic house and we have enjoyed just resting in our room while waiting for dinner at 7. It's far enough from the Camino that the owner had to pick us up by the plaza and will deliver us back tomorrow after breakfast. Tomorrow will be a long 17-mile day to Logrono (another reason we said goodbye to Gail and David, both of whom are stopping short of there for their next stays). But the time passes quickly as we meet and talk to so many great people.    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
    Rural Casa La Torrien outside Los Arcos in night of festival
    Outside Casa La Torrien. Tall tree later cut down as part of festival1Lunch time in VianaSunday in Logrono during wine festival

    Walk to Logrono

    17 septembre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Today's long walk was not as interesting as the two evenings that flanked it. After posting last night we went down for dinner and learned that there was a festival going on outside our tiny hotel. The festival involved a boy's handball game, the cutting down of a tree, and some homemade sausages which a local shared with us. That was a big deal in a town of 49 and it was wonderful to see.

    When we arrived in Lograno today, the first day of its annual wine festival was underway. Huge crowds, and as we enjoyed tapas, a parade of drum line bands. Really fun to watch.

    In between those two events was a 17-mile walk that included vineyards, olive groves and a lunch stop in Viana just as church let out. We are now in the Rioja region and the wine is not only delicious but ridiculously affordable. We had two wines and two tortillas (dinner) for 6 euro (less than $7)!

    A couple other funky pitstops are pictured, including a stand where a woman carries on a Family tradition selling food and trinkets and offers a pilgrim stamp that says Figs, Water and Love.

    We saw fewer pilgrims en route but still managed to run into familiar faces once in the big city (despite the crowds!). Also met Robert and Lenora from Seattle, who have done several pilgrimages here and elsewhere (like Japan) and had a quicker pace than us despite being well into their 70s.

    One final note: the doors in these medieval cities are so beautiful. Wish I had started taking pics of them sooner. I now want a door with a knob in the middle, and maybe a sliding, have-fun-storming-the-castle-type slot on top!    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
    1From a alburgue in Navarrete, where we took a bathroom and radler breakMB's pic from bridge into old part of Najera

    Logrono to Najera

    18–19 sept. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Well, first a confession: I'm just now emerging from a cranky, hangry phase. That, combined with the fact that Najera is just not as well preserved or charming, has colored my view of this stage. It was long (18 miles). It was vineyards as far as the eye could see, which is lovely but somewhat monotonous (I know, Camino hell!). And we had no pilgrims walking with us because many of our new friends had scheduled rest days in Logrono.

    Our midday break was in a charming town called Navarrete (pop. 2,900), where we did as in Spain and partook of a small Radler to speed us on our way. A 16th century Church of the Assumption there was stunningly ornate. Its wooden floors had me wondering why they dared have real votive candles (in addition to electric ones).

    We walked three hours from there through Rioja country. Finally re-encountered the Belgian couple who has stayed at many of the same hotels as us and got their names: Bruno and Marie Martin. Also snapped a pic of our Italian friend (who speaks no English), Rogelio.

    After arriving very tired and hungry in Najera, we found our accommodations somewhat lacking, the town somewhat ghost-y, and where there was action there was no real food. Hence the hangry spell. Found something to tide us over then picked up pre-packaged cano de lomo (more cured pork) and cheese and fruit for our breakfast and headed back to the *penthouse apartment* that is not anywhere near as nice as it sounds. Two plusses: the hosts provided a free bottle of local wine (variety unknown as they private-labelled it, but plenty decent), and it has a rooftop terrace with a view of the cliffs that are a backdrop of the town.

    Crankiness aside, we remain grateful for the chance to see how differently people live--and maybe by the end of the trip we, too, will enjoy four-hour lunches and dinners that don't start till 8 pm!    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
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    Stage 9: Najera to Santo Domingo

    19 septembre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    An easy-breezy walk today--13 miles, gentle hills, wide paths/farm roads. Clear sunny day and little shade so we were plenty sweaty by the end.

    You know you're walking in the right direction (west) in the morning when you see your shadow.

    We skipped a formal breakfast and stopped first for an orange juice in Azofra and then for a sandwich at a golf club (!) in Ciruena, a sad ghost town where rows of apartment buildings have sat empty and uncared for, presumably since the housing bubble burst in 2008. Felt like a sci-fi movie set. Not sure how the golf club stays in business, except perhaps by welcoming pilgrims to its restaurant.

    Met local kitties and more pilgrims along the way, including a woman architect from France who speaks five languages, is very involved in a Catholic social services organization and will be having an audience with the Pope on her way home to Paris next week. Feeling like I've got some work to do!

    We passed a few fields of dead/dying sunflowers. Not sure what that's about. One theory suggests it's an economic opportunity since the Ukraine/Russia war began. Apparently that is where most of Europe's sunflower seed oil comes from. Have no idea if that's true. Someone please research it and let me know!

    Apart from that I'm not sure what to say about San Domingo. It's a lovely town. Honestly they're all starting to look alike. Didn't go into the cathedral because we were too cheap to pay the admission fee. And besides, we've seen some pretty beautiful churches already. Now we're off to get us a proper dinner.    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
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    Belorado

    20–21 sept. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Today's walk (14-ish miles) involved a couple more small towns, always centered around a church, with a restaurant/bar conveniently located across the plaza from it. The churches pictured today include one in the town where Santo Domingo was baptized. (He's a big deal because after being rejected by the Benedictines twice, he went on to build infrastructure in service to pilgrims.) The same baptismal font is still used today. The other church, with a similarly ornate altar, is here in Belorado, where one can leave a written prayer intention, as MB did.

    Lots of fields (with more sad sunflowers) straddling a highway today, with a very windy stretch at the end. Also crossed over from La Rioja into Castilla y Leon.

    We may have to stop taking pics of churches as they are all starting to look alike. But we are definitely taking pics of the better casas and rooms where we stay. Tonight's is so charming and pretty. Unless there is a fireworks show right outside our hotel after we turn in, as happened last night, we should sleep well. I'm beat.

    BTW, Google Translate (and Google Lens, for menus) are excellent companions, as fewer people speak English in the towns we are now walking through.    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
    1

    To San Juan de Ortega

    21 septembre 2023, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    Holy cow, today was windy and WET! Started raining five minutes after we left for our walk and didn't stop the whole way. Two hours walking, a pause at a warm, lovely hostal to change socks and get a hot Americano, then two+ more hours slogging through the rain and mud. Our rain gear worked pretty well but our feet were totally soaked.

    Good news is we checked in before lunch service ended so were happy to eat a salad and pizza even in all our dampness.

    Hung our wet stuff out our window to dry, showered and took a nap after lunch. Then went to a neighboring albergue and met some more wonderful people, including Zoila (from Mexico, now lives in Colorado), who we have seen along the way, and a father/son duo from Argentina who is biking the Camino. The smaller towns are great for meeting people. There is literally nothing here but a hotel, two hostals (one bar/restaurant each) and a church.

    The pics show the different terrain today, which was lovely, wooded and mountainous. We realized it's harder to keep going when you can't see your destination. The last two+ hours were rough because it was so wet and muddy and there was no town in sight.

    Including an extra pic from last night showing the church next to our hotel lit up with a yellow arrow, the standard (along with a shell) waymarker on the Camino.    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur

    To Burgos

    22–23 sept. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    A windy day, up to 20 mph gusts. Through woods, farmland, over a mountain, along an airport path and through a long park bordering the city of Burgos. Used all our layers to keep warm.

    Didn't take the cathedral tour but went inside to see what we both had studied at some point in college. Need to read up on how long it took to build such a massive building with so much detail.

    Met up again with Zoila from last night. Another pilgrim we had met found MB's hat before we even knew she had lost it en route. The pilgrim (Angela, a Slovak from Hungary who now lives in Scotland) passed it onto Zoila since she had our contact info. We connected with her tonight to retrieve it. Also met Hill (Hillary John) from Canada/Palm Springs, who is clocking 30+ meters a day.

    Good day overall but we are tired and have an extra long day ahead of us so... goodnight!    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur

    Long walk to Hontanas

    23–24 sept. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Hello everyone. I'm tired so will keep this mercifully short. The day started cold (40s) and it probably took us an hour to get truly outside Burgos. Before long, it had warmed up to the 60s, which was perfect weather for walking through the *meseta*--an arid farming region that offered similar views all day, with more of the same coming tomorrow.

    Some highlights: happening upon a wedding party in Hornillos, and getting a special blessing and Miraculous Medal from two nuns in a beautiful little church (Ermita de la Virgen de Monasterio) outside of Rabé de la Calzada. We also were happy to see our Belgian friends in the town we are staying in tonight. And at dinner, we were seated with people from all over the world (Japan, Germany, Holland, Hungary), most of whom spoke at least a little English yet still we had a lot of Google Translate going on.

    This was one of our two longest days--19 miles--and the back nine were relatively unpopulated with pilgrims (which was especially convenient when nature called). Glad we came further than usual as this is a cool little town. (Once again, the last couple miles was difficult because we didn't have a sight line to the town till the very end. ) Tomorrow will be 21 miles. We paced ourselves well and feel good so tomorrow should be no problemo.

    Photos probably not super interesting as it is hard to capture the depth and breadth of the *sameness* of the landscape.    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur

    Longest Day of Trip: Hontanas-Fromista

    24–25 sept. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    As I lay in bed posting this, my phone says we walked 23.53 miles today. The stage was probably 21-ish miles; the rest came from local walking to breakfast or dinner.

    Perfect weather. (And while it wasn't too hot, I have to say my merino wool T-shirt and Lume deodorant are no match for the Camino. ) More views that are hard to convey on camera (see one picture where I circled the pilgrims walking wayyyy down the road).

    More uphill and downhill (steep!) on the Meseta. Sites and towns passed include the ruins of a 14th century monastery; another church dedicated to Mary--this one Our Lady of the Apple (!); and the town of Castrojeriz, which sadly was mostly closed early Sunday morning, depriving us of a civilized bathroom break.

    We stopped in one town to rest and buy snacks (and, OK, to have one Radler, since we had 8 more miles to walk!). Then stopped with Ricard, a pilgrim from Barcelona, in the last town before Fromista to give our legs a rest (and, OK, to have another Radler) before covering the last 5+ kilometers, which turned out to be a beautiful walk along the Canal de Castilla leading into town. Also enjoyed seeing a family of birch trees on the way into town since today is Joe's bday!

    So, we left at 7:30 am and arrived a little after 5 pm--how's that for a Sunday stroll? Our hotel is just what you'd want after a long day: clean, air conditioned, well-appointed. We showered and walked down the road to eat yet another *pilgrim's menu* meal, which really is a bargain: 18 Euro gets you a three-course meal, bread, water and wine (1/2 bottle allocated per person). We dined with Tony, a widower from Dublin whose wife died suddenly at 56 (six years ago) and whose three adult children (21, 25 and 30) live with him. Perhaps that is why he's walking the Camino? JK, M & M! 😉

    We will take it easy tomorrow, seeing the famous cathedral before walking on to our next stop. Until then, three random observations:

    1) It takes a good 30 minutes some mornings to get our Camino feet. Things are a bit stiff and wobbly before the blood gets circulating and muscles relax.

    2) There seem to be roosters in every town; between them and the church bells that ring on the regular, it would be hard to oversleep around here.

    3) There is an inordinate (and sad) amount of graffiti everywhere, even on Camino signs posted in the middle of nowhere. And I'm not talking street art; it's just random, untalented doodles. If it were up to me, I'd sentence any punk caught scribbling along the Camino to walk the Camino.    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
    Monasterio hall
    1Church that was supposed to be a must-see along the route but closed on Mondays!2

    Monasterio San Zoilo

    25–26 sept. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    THIS is why we walked 30+ miles in two days instead of three. To get a room here, at an old monastery converted to a hotel.

    Beautifully restored and lovely, quiet atmosphere. The music in the lobby is some Gregorian chant on a loop that either soothes the people who work here or drives them crazy.

    Today's 13-mile walk seemed easy by comparison to the past two days. We stopped twice for a "wee" snack, meaning we bought something small at a bar or albergue so we could feel entitled to their bathrooms 😉.

    Arrived with plenty of time to explore and enjoy the setting. Currently sitting in a hall with rooms on the outside perimeter and windows overlooking the interior courtyard.

    I'd say the place feels hallowed but I'm aware of the high politics and other non-spiritual shenanigans that must have taken place here. There is, after all, a preserved prison cell in the museum on the first floor where a misbehaving monk, who may have done nothing more than try to chat with a lay person, would serve his punishment.

    We were big girls and stayed up for an 8 pm meal in the hotel's restaurant in the *attic*. Really hard to eat this late but when in Spain...    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
    The top of the monasterio near sunrise this morning
    Long stretches with no facilities and little visual interest. But flat and sunny!One of several local cats that ask diners for food and attentionA never-ending fieldPutting feet up in the courtyard while doing laundryLa Morena Albergue, one of two places to stay in the tiny town of Ledigos

    Walk to Ledigos

    26–27 sept. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Not much to post. Long stretch of roadside paths with farmland in every direction. Apparently we can expect this for a few more days, which is why some people wish they could skip the Meseta.

    A shorter day, too (14 miles), with just one stop before arriving at our hotel/albergue, where we had a big pizza for lunch, did laundry and are now just hanging. Met a couple different people from the DMV and re-encountered Debra from Dallas, whose husband had to fly home for his father's funeral and will rejoin her in a week or so

    The past couple restaurants we've been to have had cats that come up to your table and beg like a dog.

    Wish I had a pic of a pilgrim who just passed. She is walking the opposite direction doing the Jerusalem Way, from Finisterre to Jerusalem. Just looked it up--it leads "from the end of the world over the heart of Europe to the beginning to Jerusalem to the east, towards sunrise and connects 15 countries and the continents of Europe and Asia with the Holy Land." Length: around 7,500 kilometers. Longest peace and culture path in the world

    She had her dog with her who was carrying his own food and water bottle. Just can't begin to imagine that experience. But she sure was happy and unconcerned to be walking at 6 pm. Wow.    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
    One of two statues marking the geographical halfway point of the Camino Frances
    Statue of a Knight Templar in Terradillos de los TemplariosArco San Benito in SahagunFormer Franciscan monastery where we got our half-way compostelaOur half-way compostela

    Sahagun

    27–28 sept. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Short day (about 10 miles), ending on the early side in Sahagun.

    Highlights: We hit the half-way mark (geographically) of the Camino Frances. An old Franciscan monastery, now museum, offers half-way compostelas for those who visit, so naturally we paid the entrance fee.

    In an earlier town (San Nicolas), we happened upon an artist of sorts who offered colorful wax stamps in lieu of the usual ink stamp for our pilgrim passports. So, we have two lovely souvenirs from an otherwise uneventful day.

    Enjoyed lunch with Debra and her friend Patty (from Dallas) and officially met another familiar face--Brian, from Portland, Maine, who we will likely see tomorrow as we are both staying at the same place, a hotel near a truck stop!    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
    1

    The truck stop stage

    28–29 sept. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Not many pics. Roadside walking was more of the same yet still very pleasant since it was low 70s, with a clear blue sky and a light breeze.

    One stop along the way was a very large, clean, friendly albergue, where we saw the ladies from Scotland, a guy who has harnessed a golf bag carrier to his hips in order to transport his pack, and an ambulance take away a pilgrim in some kind of distress.

    If we were homesick for the US, tonight might have cured us. We are staying just outside a small town (El Burgo Ranero) at a motel attached to a truck stop with a 24-hour diner on the first floor. Very American vibe. Nice to be able to order up a hearty burger and chips at 3 pm. The town itself is small and plain, with adobe-style clay and brick homes and buildings.

    Ran into Laguna Beach guy again. His name is John. Biking the Camino for the 4th time but following the same stages as walkers to savor things, and also to keep pace with a friend who is jogging the stages as training for a marathon. I'd say most people we meet are doing the Camino for the combination of physical challenge and communal hospitality. Not as many seeking salvation or indulgences😄, but definitely a few working through some grief.    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
    View of local church from rooftop terrace of our hotel in Mansilla
    Sunrise hitting the church in El Burgo Ranero as we walked out this morning.String of bodegas in ReliegosBodegaBodegaBodegaWith Monika from San Fran and Barbara from Nova ScotiaView of a street in Mansilla de las MullasA bottle for each of us -- don't worry; only drank half at most!First course: fried asparagus rolled in hamSecond course: chicken fajita - delicious!The indoor dining room of our old casa (taken from upper floor window).

    Mansilla de las Mullas

    29–30 sept. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Hola, familiares y amigos. Today was just like yesterday as far as distance, views and weather goes.

    Enjoyed seeing some active bodegas (wine cellars built into hillside) as we passed through Reliegos. Arrived in Mansilla in time to check in, enjoy some tapas with Monika (from San Fran) and Barbara (from Nova Scotia) before heading to a three-course lunch at our own hotel: 1) Fried asparagus wrapped in ham; 2) chicken fajita; 3) Greek yogurt with honey and pecans. Still can't get used to the idea that they set a bottle of wine at your table to drink as much or little as you want. All-included price was 15 Euro.

    Eating at 3 is really perfect. It's lunch and dinner in one and you don't have to go to sleep on a full stomach. Help me remember this when I get home!

    We are excited to get to Leon tomorrow for our first two-night stay. Will look for an outfitter store to fix or replace one of my walking poles that randomly broke today and otherwise to restock, refuel and relax.    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
    Medieval wall around Mansilla as we left this morning
    Forest just outside Mansilla wallThat feeling when you get to your destination city but still have an hour's walk to your hotelEntrance to our hotel, a converted monasteryHotel Real Colegiata San IsidoroHotel Real Colegiata San IsidoroA festival in Leon began today with a procession we know nothing about!More processionMore procession, with a falcon!A nonstop stream of people walked up down the main drag as we ateLeon Cathedral at night

    Leon

    30 sept.–2 oct. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Ah, finally--we are someplace we get to stay for two nights! And it is a beautiful hotel (also a converted monastery)! Could never get a room this luxurious in a city in US for this little ($135/night, split two ways).

    Walked four hours with just a 20-minute stop. Learned when we got here that yet another festival will be underway tomorrow. We saw a procession tonight and large swathes of people passing by our restaurant where we had dinner, but we haven't figured out what the festival is about.

    Looking forward to seeing the Leon cathedral on the inside tomorrow.    En savoir plus

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  • Charlotte BirchCamino FrancesVoyageur
    Leon CathedralBasilica de San IsidoroBasilica of San IsidoroCasa Boutines by architect GaudiDelicious lunch at Casa Daniel

    Leon, Day 2

    1–3 oct. 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Toured the Leon Cathedral today and it really is stunning in its scale and amount of detail. It has nearly 1,800 square meters of stained glass windows.

    As we stepped out into the cloisters, people were gathering for Las Cantaderas, a traditional ceremony celebrating the end to a mythical practice whereby the Asturian kings annually gave 100 maidens to the Muslim caliphs as payment for something. (Not sure what--I think the tradition is essentially based on ancient disinformation!) This is part of the weekend's whole Fiesta de San Froilan, which had the streets packed yet again today with crowds, processions of ginormous flags and a fair number of bagpipes. (BTW, were you aware of the Celtic/Iberian connection? I wasn't but it's a thing--look it up!)

    We popped into a couple other must-sees, minus the tours: the Basilica of San Isidoro, and Casa Boutines by Gaudi. Then we escaped the crowds by snagging a table at Casa Daniel the minute it opened and enjoyed a wonderful, relaxing and filling lunch. It's hard not to eat a lot when lunch and dinner are three-course meals. Good thing we will be walking it off on tomorrow's 15-mile hike to San Martin del Camino.    En savoir plus

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