Retéo

First steps on a new land.

Let me tell you why I'm loving South America so far. Land, for starters, was very well recieved - aside from a very long wait at 'customs'. We never actually saw a customs agent or even a customs sign, but after several hours lying on our bags on the dock, the captain returned our passports with entry stamps valid for 90 days and didn't charge us a dime. No qualms there. Almost instantly after we left, I couldn't help but be overwhelmed by the cleanliness. It was first world; no rubbish, no graffiti, limited dirt and even fewer puddles of stagnant stinking water. After the last few months of dirty cities, it actually came as a bit of a shock that this standard still exists! At least in part of the city...

None of our crew had bookings for the first night in Cartagena, so we all ended up at the same hostel, dominating the 13 bed dorm. Showers, dinner and an early night were much needed by all. Nonetheless, we made it to the local plaza for dinner and a dose of culture. While you lot have been planning easter and simultaneously battening the hatches, we've almost overlooked it altogether. How foolish. Easter in South America is known as Santa Semana and it is not taken lightly. It's a week long festival where Colombians holiday, fiesta and spend time with their families. We'll be spending the next week hating it, loving it and regularly being blindsided by its extreme and sporadic difference from the norm. This night, luckily was one to enjoy (somewhat wearily) as the square packed out with all kinds of entertainment and vendors creating a very lively scene. It was short lived this time but it won't be our last!

Again, we're staying near the old part of Cartagena (read: newly refurbished and well maintained). It's absolutely stunning at almost every turn. Brightly coloured and delightfully detailed colonial buildings line the streets, balconies bloom with bougainvilleas and ancient fortifications blend boldy into the hills and headlands. On top of this about a million Columbian (or Cartagenian) flags flutter in the Caribbean breeze which also ripples water in a stunning harbour enveloped by fairly decent beaches (I have a very high standard when it comes to beaches - based on popularity these might be considered 'nice' beaches). It's nudged Antigua off its perch as our most beautiful city to date, hands down.

On our first morning we tagged along on a free walking tour in the baking heat (it goes without saying now doesn't it?) and explored the old city. It was actually really interesting but I won't bore you with all the detail - just my favourites.
- Cartagena was established unsurprisingly as a port to trade with the old world. By 'trade' I mean import and export slaves and gold. It's numerous fortifications were (unlike many others we've visited) seriously put to the test, falling numerous times to pirates (including the notorious Francis Drake, after whom the main channel in the BVIs is named) and very nearly to the English - each time being rebuilt bigger and stronger with more firepower and increasing levels of complexity and strategy.
- Cartagena doesn't have a natural water supply. Water was collected during the rainy season and had to last all of the dry season - or else. Water nowadays is diverted from the nearest fresh water supply via an aquaduct so Cat and I can have hot showers 'til the cows come home.

After our tour we visited the fort of all forts; Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas. Our lack of spanish let us down on the history of this one (later recovered through wikipedia readings) but it didn't stop us appreciating the scale of fort and it's prime location with 360 degree views of the city.

We also found time to visit what will be our last beach for a long time - playa Castillo Grande. It included a visit to a distinctively different region. The colonial town turns quickly to skyscrapers (largely hotels or apartments) all of which are curiously painted entirely white. At the base of the towers is everything American including a horrendously busy and touristy playa Bocagrande (do not visit!). Witnessing the local fisherman on form was great entertainment. They hauled in a net out of nowhere, longer than the entire length of the beach. It took half a dozen burly men on each end, followed by much frolicking in the shallows before their catch was revealed: barely enough to feed a couple of familes. As we've come to expect, most of the fish were sold before they reached the beach!

Another short stop for us, but this time we'd done what we came to do and were happy to move on. We're sad to say goodbye to our boat mates but grateful for their company and advice, hasta luego! We've got our first overnight bus (to Medellín) coming up - not too thrilled about it but chuffed not to lose a precious day on transport!Read more