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Camino de Santiago - Frances
  • Traveling Devols

Camino de Santiago - Frances

A 45-day adventure by Traveling Devols Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 5, 2022
    Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler

    The journey begins!

    September 4, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Jordan got us to the airport in style. Now, off to see how smooth the air travel goes.

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler

    Made it to Paris

    September 5, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Long day of travel and not much sleep on the plane but made it to Paris in one piece. Walked around the corner from our hotel and had a great meal and watched a nice cooling rain. Now, off to rest up for tomorrow.Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Day touring Paris

    September 6, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    We did Peg’s favorite thing when we only have one day in a new city, a Hop On-Hop Off bus tour. Even though we rode a bus to all the sites, somehow we still walked almost 8 miles. Paris did not disappoint, a beautiful city with amazing landmarks.Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    St Jean - The beginning of The Way

    September 7, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Left Paris at 300 mph on the Bullet Train. Once in St. Jean, we visited the Pilgrim office, signed in, and got information. We checked into our albergue, did a tour of town and relaxed with an affordable French wine before we attended the Pilgrim Mass at the local church. We are hoping for a good night’s sleep in our first hostel. Tomorrow the walk begins!Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Refuge Orrison

    September 8, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Last night we stayed at Refuge Le Chemin vers l’Etoile in St. Jean. After walking the Camino in 2013, the owner left his life in Paris working in IT and restored a tired old building into comfortable housing for 54 pilgrims. He shared that the gift he receives from each person he meets has easily been worth his investment.

    After an interesting night of sleeping in our first albergue, we had a quick breakfast and headed out at 6:45 walking into the dark morning. Our task today was a quick, steep, 2500’ climb in 6 miles. Oh, did I say steep? We had a short walk but am so glad we started early to see the day awaken. It was stunning.

    Once at the Orrison albergue we quickly settled into a great group from Georgia, Portland and Portugal. The Camino has already supplied great new friends! At dinner everyone at the albergue shared where they were from and why they were walking. It was a special night.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Roncesvalles

    September 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Day 2 proved to be another day of climbing 2700’. Conditions where perfect for hiking with cool temps, then mist and light rain. We topped the Pyrenees, crossed over into Spain and then the sun came out guiding us into Roncesvalles.

    Once we booked a bed at the monastery for the night we were off to build new friendships in town. We burned a lot of calories so the beer won’t hurt the waistline, right?! 😁. The good thing is, with the help of a pilgrim who did the Camino a few years ago, we were able to book a room for the following night. Hopefully we will get the hang of this new lifestyle (where we plan to sleep the following night) sooner than later.

    We shared a meal tonight with other pilgrims from South Korea, Brazil and France. It has been great to start building friendships and have conversations with others from around the globe. It is clear how similar our lives, families and goals are and that we are all navigating the world as best we can.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Zubiri

    September 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    After a couple of days of climbing we were looking forward to less vertical. We got that today with only about 1500’ of climbing but the temps were much higher. I will say the ice cold lemon soda we got from a roadside trailer with umbrellas and tables was a lifeline, setting us up for the last three miles of the day.

    So far the hiking here has been amazing. It is a great combination of trails through the beautiful countryside and a little road walking through the coolest villages. And once you get to town, you get to spend the evening with all the great people you met during the day.

    Tomorrow we are off to Pamplona; a regional city. Should be a fun day.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Pamplona

    September 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 93 °F

    14 mile walk today into Pamplona with 90+ temps and lots of steep ups and downs. Thankfully we started at 6:45 and walked the first half in nice temperatures. We are finding that leaving before the sun comes up is wonderful and helpful.

    We stopped for a pilgrim’s breakfast in a small village where we found the only place open because of a small sign on the trail nailed to a tree. We shared a meal with a doctor from Bakersfield and a lady from Hanford. What a small world. The owner of the cafe/store had done the Camino 11 times and shared with us the impact it made on his life.

    Once we got through a very long, hot walk into the city we where greeted with beautiful city streets to tour. I am still amazed by the age of Spain and how clean everything is. Had a fun lunch with new friends and now waiting for the city to wake back up (after siesta) for the night.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Puente la Reina

    September 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Longest hike to date for me and Peg at over 17 miles. Started off walking the silent, dark streets of Pamplona and then back to climbing. One thing is clear, in Spain, switchbacks are for wimps.

    After a nice stop at the steps of a church for a Camino breakfast we started the climb over Alto del Perdon (check out the video to see the amazing view). From here it was a fast and hot downhill into our stay for the night. Very clean place with a good pilgrim’s meal. Tomorrow we are back at it.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Villatuerta

    September 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Today turned out to be a 'people day' with only 11 miles of hiking but lots of social time. The walk took us through wonderful narrow street villages with fun stops to visit with old Camino friends and meet new ones.

    We stopped 1.5 early for the stage in Villatuerta at a wonderful albergue with regular beds (no bunks)!! It really has turned out to be a retreat after many miles on our bodies. We spent the afternoon doing laundry with a washer/dryer rather than in a bucket, were provided tubs of warm water, Epsom Salts and vinegar to soak our feet (amazing), showered in showers without flow restrictions (like in the states), drank $5 bottles of wine and just chilled. Looking forward to paella for dinner tonight! This albergue, Casa Magica, is for sale. Hummmmm....    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Estella

    September 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    We decided to take a rest day today before a long day tomorrow. Took a short 2.7 mile walk into Estella and then had a great day hanging with friends, visiting the Decathlon store for a couple of things and then more hanging out until a Pilgrim’s dinner. It was a really fun, chill day and well deserved.Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Los Arcos

    September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    We tried something new today and paid $5 to have our packs forwarded ahead and just carried small packs. This made for a fast and effortless day of 13.5 miles into Los Arcos. Sherry and Bryan, who we started out with, took a leisurely speed and we had a wonderful 6 mile chat with Carol, a retired oncology nurse from North Carolina, who is now a friend for life! It is just wonderful the chats you can have while walking the Spanish countryside.

    Los Arcos looks to be a tight farming community with a great city square which should be good fun tonight. Tomorrow we are off to the city of Logroño, a 33km day.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Logroño

    September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Once again we started out long before the sunrise to get miles in and miss the heat but the weather today was perfect hiking weather, cool and overcast. Walking here is amazing. The mileage is hard, at just shy of 19 miles today and likely more than 20 tomorrow, but the rewards are huge.

    We are meeting so many people walking for so many different reasons. When we get into a new village it seems we always run into someone we know, usually a person we met days earlier. It is so good to check in with, and encourage, one another. At dinner last night we had great conversations challenged by many languages but it all gets sorted out somehow.

    Each night around dinner time we begin the search for a bed for the next night. Somehow it works out, be it a bunk bed like tonight with 12 others or like tomorrow where we scored a room with just two beds!

    Tomorrow looks like another cool weather day so walking should be good.
    Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Nájera

    September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Left town about 6:45am as many people were still trying to find their way home from celebrating all night after Spain beat Germany in basketball. It was sunnier today but cooler temps. In other words, another day of perfect hiking weather. We walked through endless grape vineyards with harvest just getting underway. Beautiful.

    We were finally able to reconnect with Miguel, one of our favorite Camino friends, in Najera. We had beers and a yummy Pilgrim dinner of Chinese food.

    The sad news is Tom has developed some tendinitis and grabbed a taxi the last 7 miles of the walk today. He will taxi ahead to the next town tomorrow as well in order to give his leg a rest. Hopefully with a little down time he will be as good as new and rejoining me on the trail.

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Tom took another day of rest in hopes that his tendinitis begins to heal. I left in darkness again, walking out of town with a great guy named Paul from Australia (another friendly Aussie!). We had great conversation for along way. At some point he took off like a rocket and I walked the last 5-6 miles, of my 13 mile day, at a leisurely stroll, listening to music and thoroughly enjoying the journey. But as always, I am spent when I hobble into town at the end of the day. This long distance walking, multiple days in a row, is no joke 😳

    Tom met me in town after sharing a ride with 3 other injured Pilgrims. We will spend a down day here tomorrow to allow Tom to rest and seek medical attention. I am hoping to be on the trail again on Tuesday hopefully with Tom trudging along beside me. Still ❤️ 🇪🇸!

    Buen Camino.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Down day in Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    A rest day in Santo Domingo was hard for me mentally but probably the best choice physically. We started out at the pharmacy (along with other pilgrims we knew) and got a “bag of cures” for Tom’s self diagnosed tendinitis 😅. As of late this afternoon he is feeling much better but wisely will share a taxi with pilgrim friends to the next town tomorrow to give his foot one more day to (hopefully) recover. I will walk out of town with our nurse friend, Carol (who we mentioned in a post a few days back). It’s so good to have others to share the ups and downs of this crazy journey.

    Did we mention today was a holiday of sorts in town? Most businesses are shut down and there was a parade up and down the streets for hours. Tom has captured a little video for you to appreciate.

    The rest of today was spent doing laundry, touring the local cathedral, having a great breakfast and lunch and watching Tom elevate his foot as much as possible. Looking forward to a light dinner tonight, a good night’s sleep and seeing what tomorrow brings.

    Buen Camino! 🇪🇸    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Belorado

    September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Well, the day started off with me taking Peg into the center of town to meet up with Carol from NC who she hiked with for the day and then getting an Americano, fresh OJ and a croissant for breakfast. Then I took a quick taxi ride before I started my 1 km walk into town😅. Oh, and Peg walked 22km and took all the walking photos along the way. My ankle is much better today and I am back to walking tomorrow.

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Agés

    September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Wowsa, can I mention how cold it was this morning?! 😳 We are usually so concerned with what the high temperature will be for the day that we neglected to look at the low temp for the morning. With it being Tom’s first day back walking, and having to cover 17 miles today, we made the wise decision to travel light and have our backpacks sent ahead. That means we did not have everything at our disposal when we started walking in shorts in 37 degree weather! 😫 Luckily we had a couple layers for the top half but suffered from 6:30-9:30 with freezing legs, hands and ears.

    Crazy that Tom made it to our destination on his bad foot while wearing a brand new pair of Teva sandals the whole way. It was touch and go there for a while and he felt every step but we made it!!

    Looking forward to dinner, sleep, and a walk into Burgos tomorrow where we will reunite with most of our Camino family who are a day ahead of us. We are anxious to spend a couple days there with friends and replenishing some basic supplies, including new shoes for Tom.

    Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler

    Burgos - Day 1

    September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Started our day before the sun was up which is the new normal. It really is beautiful walking out of silent villages with a headlamp and then getting to see and hear the day awaken as you walk. I thought it would be hard to wake up and get out so early but you do have the help of 12-20 other people snoring through the night to encourage you to be up and out 😂.

    The first thing was a good climb to a wonderful vista and downhill for the balance of the walk into Burgos. At 10 miles my ankle said enough was enough and I caught the free city bus from the edge of town. I did wave to Peg as we buzzed by a few blocks later. The plan was to rest my foot but I ended up walking back from the center of town to guide Peg in likely adding another 3-4 miles to the day.

    We are in town for two nights and had a great evening meeting up with friends we haven’t seen for a couple of days, most importantly Helen and Mike who have invited us for a visit to Dublin on our way home! Tomorrow we are tourists for the day in Burgos.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Burgos Day 2

    September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Today was a day of rest; you know, time off our feet. Why does my watch show 19,629 steps walked? The rest day had a busy to-do list connected to it. Go to the pharmacy for more super cream, get cash, a few odds and ends at the drug store, new shoes for Tom and then a trip to Decathlon (the second pilgrimage all pilgrims make on the Camino to get hiking supplies we neglected to bring from home). Sadly Decathlon was a 2+ mile walk out of the city center. Good thing there was a free bus stop across the street for the return trip.

    The errands did give us a great walking tour of the city. After all our chores where done we meet up with Rick, a photographer from Portland, for dinner and then off for a tour of the Burgos cathedral.

    Tomorrow it’s back on The Way for about 16 miles and then a stay at an albergue that only has 10 beds with a family style dinner in San Bol.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Rabé de las Calzadas

    September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    It is said that you will travel through stages of experiences while walking the Camino; the first physical, then mental and finally spiritual. From Peg’s and my experience so far, we are hoping for a quick end to the physical stage and will welcome the mental.

    My tendon is doing amazingly well. I think the lighter days and new shoes have really helped (oh, and the miracle gel). But things were more challenging for Peg this morning. She has had a cough and stuffy head for the last couple of days. Today she woke feeling miserable. We canceled our very hard to get reservation for the night and tried to extend our stay in Burgos. Saturday night in Burgos with a fall festival was very busy with tourists and pilgrims and town was sold out. After lots of frustrations looking for a place for the night we found one.... an 8 mile walk away. It was such a relief to find a spot, but the walk was long. That said it was still a beautiful day to walk with a light sprinkle at the end.

    We had a great chat in a little bar with Beto from Mexico who is friends with the owners of Casa Ramos restaurant in Chico. What a small world. And little rewards for the day, we are in a very modern hotel that upgraded us to a two level, two bedroom suite with a living room, kitchen and most importantly, a washing machine!! The second reward was that Peg tested negative for COVID which we are hearing is making the rounds through the pilgrim family. Tomorrow’s a new day.

     Buen Camino.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Castrojériz

    September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    If you look at the last photo it sums up how our day started off. Peg woke up feeling horrible in a town with no services or food. The thought of walking the 17 miles to the next town was out of the question. Do we stay another day after the last two rest days we took for my tendon problem or take the $85 EURO taxi to our next town? Sometimes you have to set your pride aside and keep your eyes on the goals; seeing an amazing country, meeting wonderful people, testing our ourselves, and yes, walk as much as you can. We opted for the taxi.

    Once we got to Castrojeriz I took a hike straight up to a castle ruin (why is everything straight up in Spain?). From the top of the mountain you got a 360 degree view of the whole region. It was totally worth the climb. My ankle is feeling great by the way!

    The hostel is really nice tonight. Sabrina, the owner, let us in early so Peg could sleep and even checked up on her. Sabrina just took over the hostel 25 days ago after buying it from the owner who retired. She is from Argentina having moved to Spain a year and a half ago. We have met many hostel and albergue owners, who are from countries other than Spain, that are drawn to the Camino.

    Tomorrow dawns a new day, just 16 miles. Good vibes for Peg that she feels better.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Fromista - 1st full day on Meseta

    September 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Before I get into the day I just have to comment on something really special in Spain, the showers. Oh my word, in California we have those low flow shower nozzles. They don’t have those here. When you turn the shower on, if you’re not careful, you might knock yourself to the ground. The pressure and volume is amazing!

    Now to the day - Peg woke up still feeling bad after a rough night of coughing and a horrible sore throat. When we discover the town doctor and pharmacy did not open until 11:00 we decided to start walking in hopes of finding medicine along the way. Sabrina at the hostel got us coffee and a Spanish standard, fresh squeezed orange juice, and we where off. This was our first full day on the Meseta, a vast plain that goes on for a week. The weather was perfect hiking weather with amazing color and a constantly changing landscape. Many see the Meseta as boring flats to be endured. We found them to be beautiful with big skies, easily competing with Montana. The walking was easy and Peg tackled it with grace. I was very proud of her, knowing how she felt.

    We grabbed lunch in Boadilla del Camino in a fancy place that was playing jazz from NPR which was very out of place in the small farming town. From here we had a 4 mile walk along a beautiful canal into the town of Fromista. Peg found the pharmacy and got setup with a special 'bag of cures' to fix her up.

    Today finished up at 17 miles. Tomorrow will likely be a lighter day around 12.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler

    Carrión de los Condes

    September 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Day 2 on the Meseta and we clearly have moved into the mental stage of the Camino. Our walk was sprinkled with an odd silence. This section of Spain is so quiet. The roads have few cars or trucks and the village streets are empty most of the time. It has a peace to it that we just don’t get at home. When you see something going on it stands out, like the lady placing shoes out to air on a second floor window sill. No other sounds or activity for blocks, just an older Spanish lady going about her day.

    At one point we where walking along a road into a town and I said to Peg, “do you hear that?” there was no sounds other than a bird in the distance whose sound was amplified by the lack of noise. The peace and silence gives you time to clear your mind and think. The Meseta will last about a week so we have a lot of thinking time ahead of us. 😳

    On the health side of things, Peg looks to be on the mend. Today ended up at about 13 miles across the plains with a lovely walk along a tree shaded canal. The walking is mostly flat and easy going at this stage.

    Tomorrow will take us about 17 miles with a stay in a group albergue at the end of the day. While Peg has been feeling bad, we have been staying in private rooms in hostels or hotels. But it’s time to stop being spoiled with nice sheets and quiet rooms. Back to the serenade of two dozen people snoring the night away.
    Wish us luck with that!

    Buen Camino.    Read more

  • Traveling DevolsCamino de Santiago - FrancesTraveler
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    Terradillos de los Templarios

    September 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Today we walked 16.7 miles on a cold, windy, straight road in the middle of nowhere Spain and loved every minute of it. We are in a great albergue tonight sharing a room with a father/son duo from Denmark. Their English is amazing and we just finished having dinner with them and had a wonderful conversation. They have warned us of their snoring and I have warned them of my coughing so maybe they are the perfect roommates?? Or, there may not be much sleeping tonight.

    All in all it was a great day walking on the Meseta.

    Buen Camino!!    Read more

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