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Morocco: Kasbahs and Camels
  • Diane and Darryl

Morocco: Kasbahs and Camels

17-dniowa przygoda według Diane Czytaj więcej
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    14 lutego 2024
    Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    1Chefchaouen, the blue city
    The caves of HerculesCape Spartel (where Atlantic meets the Mediterranean)Strait of Gibraltar, with Spain in the backgroundIn ChefchaouenThe "lobby" of our guesthouseA rug for sale in the streets of ChefchaouenDoor in our guesthouse

    Colorful Chefchaouen

    14 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ 🌬 70 °F

    Our first day in Morocco! In the morning we flew from our stopover city of Madrid to Tangier. We were met by a guide we’d arranged in advance to take us on a 2-night tour of this northern part of Morocco.

    We started with a few sights around Tangier, including the “Hercules cave,” where legend says he rested after breaking apart the continents of Europe and Africa. But more interesting to us were the arc-shaped carvings over all the walls—evidence of the Berbers’ excavations for millstones for making olive oil, and where archaeologists have found artifacts from prehistoric times.

    Nearby is Cape Spartel, the point where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic—where you can see Spain across the Strait of Gibraltar. Finally, we carried on to Chefchaouen, a 3-hour drive south. We were attracted to this town because of the photos we’d seen of the blue painted walls throughout. Our riad (guesthouse) is wonderfully decorated!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Small village in the Rif Mountains
    In a rug shopPlace where women wash clothes (none there at that time)Viewpoint over ChefchaouenIn the Rif MountainsOur hiking guide, MoustafaWaterfall and cafe near the end of our hike

    Blue City and Green Mountains

    15 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Our guide Ali took us around the winding pedestrian streets of old town Chefchaouen, pointing out the highlights and history of the city.

    The city was founded in the late 1400s as a fortress to defend against attacks from Portuguese forces. Not long after, it received an influx of Jews escaping the Spanish inquisition, who brought a tradition of painting buildings blue. It is said that the color mirrors the sky and reminds them of God. Helpfully, the blue color keeps the area cooler and deters mosquitoes. We’re here in winter so heat and bugs aren’t a concern.

    Ali was very proud of his city for its local crafts and community feeling. Several wood-fired bakeries offered baking services to residents who bring their bread dough. We saw rug and blanket weavers at work, and women selling their produce on the streets. We also learned that public education is free for children from age 3 through university, although private schools are also available.

    Throughout the day, we heard the calls to prayer from the loudspeakers on the surrounding mosques (5 times a day). Ali pointed out that going to prayer is not compulsory in Morocco (unlike in Saudi Arabia, he would say).

    Later we took a 5-mile hike up into the Rif Mountains in Talassemtane National Park, less than an hour away from Chefchaouen. The park was only established 20 years ago, so it is dotted with long-standing small villages (and some of their accompanying trash). The views from our very steep climb were well worth the effort!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Feddan Square, Tetouan
    Stonework in Feddan Square, TetouanWalking the streets of TetouanA Tétouan bakeryNice doors everywhere!Mosque MinaretWoodworking at the School of Arts and CraftsJigsaw cutting intricate designsStencils and finished wood piecesEmbroidery artistsMetalworking studentPlasterworkMan leaving his shoes before going into a Tangier mosqueShowroom of student work at the School of Arts and CraftsView of the Mediterranean Sea from our Tangier restaurant rooftopBakery in the old city of TangierRug and boanket weaver in Tangier1The rug-maker wanted to dress us up

    Tetouan & Tangier

    16 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Leaving Chefchaouen in the morning, we had two more sightseeing stops before we left this corner of Morocco. First up was Tetouan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, designated in part for the long and varied history of its old city (dating to the 3rd century BC), and also for its preservation of traditional arts and crafts.

    After a walk around the walled city of Tetouan, taking in the various architectural influences from the Jewish, Spanish, French and Arabic residents over time, we were able to visit the School of Arts and Crafts. The school opened in 1916, and was established for the conservation and passing on of Arab-Andalusian national heritage. Young people of approximately middle school age were working at a wide range of crafts, from embroidery to woodworking, metalworking, ceramics and more.

    We then drove on to Tangier, which at one time, until Moroccan independence from the French in the 1950s, was considered an international zone, governed by a committee of 11 different countries. Our tour in Tangier took us to the site of the king’s summer residence, and around the old marketplace, where we saw lots of finished examples of the handicrafts we’d seen at the school in Tétouan.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Royal guard at the site of Hassan II's tomb
    Map of our Collette 2-week tourRoyal Palace and ResidenceChellah Necropolis, where a Phoenician city was recently discoveredBrand-new opera houseTomb of Mohammed VTomb of Mohammed VTomb of Mohammed VWalled city of the kasbah (former fortress)View of the Atlantic, frequented by Barbary pirates during Spanish occupation2At the art museum (reminded us of a piece from Darryl's dad's friend)Traditional Moroccan meal1Pasilla (meat pie with almonds and spices)Restaurant entertainmentTea pouring

    Rabat, Capital City and Site of Royalty

    17 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    After a train ride yesterday from Tangier, we arrived at Rabat, where we would meet our Collette tour group. We have a group of 24 people and a trip leader who is originally from Berber family heritage.

    A little about Morocco: it is a constitutional monarchy, the only monarchy of three remaining in Africa (2 others in former Swaziland). The people love their current king, Mohammed VI. He lives relatively simply—one wife (not multiple), two children, and he chooses to live in the residence he had as the prince, outside of the city, rather than in the royal palace in Rabat.

    Our tour group visited the royal compound (outside only), where formal functions are held. The site is guarded by all the branches of the military, including the royal guards. This practice was instituted after a failed army coup of the reign of Mohammed VI’s father, Hassan II. (That’s what happened to the many other former monarchies in Africa.) Hassan figured if all branches were charged with protecting him, no one group would gain power.

    We also were able to visit only the outside of the Chellah Necropolis, a walled town containing both pre-Roman ruins and a medieval necropolis. Within the last six months, archaeologists have confirmed new discoveries at the site with a footprint almost five times the size of Pompeii, and they were busy at work excavating inside.

    Our last stop with the bus was to the tomb of Mohammed V, the grandfather of the current king. He is much revered, because he negotiated Morocco’s independence from France in 1955.

    With our free afternoon, we had lunch at a Turkish restaurant, visited Rabat’s contemporary art museum and took an hour walk back to our hotel.

    In the evening, we were treated to dinner at a restaurant serving traditional Moroccan fare (which we’ve been enjoying very much in our previous days). We were quite satisfied with the pastilla (flaky pastry chicken pie) and salads, but then came the main dishes! Two different tagines (marinated braised chicken and beef), and roasted chicken on a bed of shredded very light pita bread that was like noodles. Sorry we didn’t get more food photos! Of course there was entertainment, but only by men—drumming and singing.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Winery guide in barrel room with experimental clay jars
    Bottling machinesStainless tanksFertile soil here, good temps, usually enough water (not in last few years!)Welcome tasting of roséFirst course salads and pinot gris wineOne of the main courses (beef with olives (always!) and preserved lemonsDining inside the villa (too windy outdoors)BBQ cafes along the drive to FesBBQ cafe (see fresh meat hanging)View from our room's balconyDining area of our riadOur room in FesStreet scene in the late afternoon in FesSeen on our walk through the medinaOlive stand in the medinaSpices and grains in the medinaCoppersmith section of the medinaGate into the old city

    Onward to Fes, with Wine Tasting

    18 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    On the 3-hour journey to Fes, we drove through relatively flat farmland, with the foothills of the Atlas Mountains in the background. Olive orchards predominated the scenery, with some wheat fields, sheep farms and Eucalyptus windbreaks added in for variety.

    We stopped at a winery estate for a tour, tasting and lunch. You’re probably thinking—a winery in a Muslim country, what’s that about? Well, we learned that even though alcohol is prohibited by Islamic law, it is not strictly illegal in Morocco. In fact, there are bars in the cities and some restaurants, and 80% of wine and beer production stays in the country, with 20% exported.

    Some 80% of the wineries in Morocco are owned by one large corporation. But Domaine Zouina, which we visited, is an independent winery, owned by two French families who came to Morocco to produce French wine with Moroccan grapes in Moroccan soil. The vineyard and winery is kind of their sandbox to play around with new techniques that they might not be able to do in France.

    Although our trip leader, Mohamed, downplayed expectations for the wine in advance, saying the point of the visit was to highlight the seeming paradox of winemaking in a Muslim country, we thought the wine was quite tasty, especially when paired with so many delicious Moroccan dishes.

    Before lunch we got a brief tour of their winemaking facilities, but with a surprise—Domaine Zouina is experimenting with aging in clay jars imported from Italy (much like the amphora in ancient Rome). They won’t even taste it themselves for another year, but they are hoping they’ll be able to bring a unique product to the market.

    Driving on for another hour, we arrive ld in Fes, the second-largest city in Morocco (pop. 1.8-ish million). We are staying in a beautifully restored riad (guesthouse) in one of the oldest districts of Fes.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    At Art Naji ceramics in Fes
    Potter working on a tagineCreating the designApplying pewter decorationFinished and unfinished piecesOne of 7 doors to the King's palacePart of the oldest university in the world (dorms above)We spent hours wandering through the market streetsAt the marketVERY thin pita for special dishesYarn made from agave strands (called cactus silk)9th century constructionDyeing vats at the tanneryOverview of FesSome very narrow pathways!3 languages: Arabic, Berber & FrenchMidway through dinner entertainmentDates & figs in the marketCaftans & djellabas (with pointy hoods)

    Medieval City of Fes

    19 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    (We have added a short paragraph at the end of yesterday’s post, and about 8-9 photos, since each day has a limited number of photos on this app, and Fes has a lot of interesting things to share!)

    The medina (old city) of Fes was founded in 808. There are several districts of varying age: what they call the old city (9th century), the “new city” (11th century) and the modern urban Ville Nouvelle area founded during the French colonial era, beginning in 1912. The old city is completely car-free (although there are donkeys and hand carts to move goods around).

    In the morning, we walked out to where our bus could meet us, and drove around to a few sights accessible by car, beginning with the 195-acre Royal Palace (just the outside). There are 12 royal palaces in Morocco, and the king uses most of them for various occasions.

    We also visited a ceramics factory, which used to use olive-wood fired kilns, but now are fueled by natural gas. Otherwise, their techniques are traditional and completely hand-made with natural glazes.
    Mosaic tiles are made in 350 shapes, all hand-hammered/chiseled. It was fascinating to watch them at work.

    We also visited the University of al-Qarawiyyin in Fez, founded in 859, which is recognized by UNESCO as the oldest existing degree-granting university.

    Finally, we took a long, slow walk through the winding pathways of the 9th century part of the city, with so many food stalls and small manufacturing cubbyholes —one man and a sewing machine, copper workers, woodworking, leather and yarn dyeing. The Moroccan weavers commonly use yarn made from agave strands (called cactus silk). It is luminescent like silk, and very soft, yet durable.

    Speaking of food, all our meals have been so tasty—seasonings of cumin, cinnamon, cloves, caramelized onions, garlic and herbs. And always mint tea after our meals.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Triumphal arch of Volubilis
    3rd Century Roman ruinsPart of an olive oil pressThe Cardo (heart)--forum, temple and marketTemple with sacrificial altarLunch in a traditional home (now restaurant)Fortified walls of Mekenes (4 meters thick)Farming scenery on our driveScenery on our drive

    Day Trip to Roman Ruins of Volubilis

    20 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Leaving Fes in the morning by bus, we drove into the countryside, first passing the Royal farm, which supplies the royal palace in Fes. Then we moved on to private farms of fava beans, barley, chickpeas, coriander, parsley and groves of olives and pomegranates. All ingredients for the tasty meals we’ve been eating (including Harira, a traditional Moroccan soup we have before nearly every dinner).

    After a couple of hours, we arrived at Volubilis, a UNESCO World Heritage site with well-preserved Roman ruins dating to 100 BC. This was a thriving city for 400 years before the Berbers pushed out the Romans in 300 AD.

    The site occupies 250 acres, and only 1/3 of it is excavated, mostly due to lack of funding. There is no evidence of active excavations. Still intact are several of the mosaic floors with vibrant colors, and numerous columns. We could wander freely around the site with a local guide. It was sunny and not too warm, and there were relatively few other visitors.

    We then moved on to the village of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, where the founder of Fes was born and is buried. He was a descendant of the prophet Mohamed and the first Muslim king of Morocco. (Previous monarchies were under Berber rulers.) People make pilgrimages to this town because of the connection to the prophet. Before there were hotels, the locals would open their homes to visitors, and our lunch was in one of those homes. It was about a 10-minute walk through more winding alleyways, much like the old town of Fes.

    Finally, we did a drive-by of 17th century Meknes, famous for its ramparts. This was during a time when Morocco was under attack from numerous Europeans countries, as well as the British. The Sultan Moulay Ismail (king from 1672-1727) built 3 sets of walls and enough granaries to withstand a 10-year siege, as well as a secret aqueduct (so it couldn’t be poisoned).

    Sultan Moulay Ismail’s grandson is the one who signed the longest running peace treaty the U.S. has signed. In 1786, Morocco was the first country to formally recognize American independence, a document that remains the longest unbroken relationship in U.S. history.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Nomad tending his sheep
    1A crane condominiumPaired cranes everywhere!Monkeys in the mountainsMonkeys at our hiking stopNomadic encampmentVillage in the High Atlas MountainsLunch restaurantPlasterwork detailOur room in the casbah hotelOur roomOur bathroomReal fossils in the sinkOur hotel exteriorHotel at nightHotel at night

    Driving Toward the Sahara

    21 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Leaving Fes, we had a 9-hour journey ahead of us to get close to the Sahara Desert. We crossed two mountain ranges—the Middle Atlas and High Atlas—and saw the scenery change from green farmland, fruit orchards (apple, cherry, almond) and forests (cedar and oak), to dry, rocky, tan-colored terrain.

    We stopped every couple of hours—once in the charming alpine ski village of Ifrane (only around 4,500 feet elevation). The town was built during French occupation, which accounts for its European architecture. Another stop was for a short hike in a cedar forest. Cedar trees are protected here, and most of the wood decoration in the old cities is from cedar wood.

    We passed what’s called “semi-nomadic” settlements—makeshift huts where the nomadic people are living. They traditionally would live in caves in the mountains during summer, near a water source and tend their herds of sheep (and some goats), then move to lower elevations in the colder months. But nomads are finding it harder to find places to bring their herds as the land is getting more built up. The sheep are kept for their wool for carpets and clothing.

    All of northwest Africa used to be nomadic. Now there are only about 25,000 nomads left, and the number is decreasing because the younger generation don’t want to live that way anymore.

    Our road south was once an old caravan trail, between the desert and Fes. Many former casbahs (fortresses) were perched on the cliffs to protect the trade route. The asphalt road was constructed by the French foreign legion in 1926, and obviously kept since then. By the way, the roads have been in excellent condition everywhere we’ve been.

    Although the ride was long, it wasn’t boring—the scenery was interesting and Mohamed kept us entertained with stories and information. Our hotel tonight is in a replica of a kasbah, called Kasbah Hotel Xaluca and is wonderfully decorated, inside and out.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Mini golf on the terrace of our kasbah hotelLearning about fossilsChambered nautilusPolishing (disc made from blue jeans)Polishing a large piece with pumiceTrilobite, 500 million years oldCrinoid, related to star fish, 520 million years oldClose-up of CrinoidOur desert campOur desert camp roomGame time with new friend AmyExploring around our campSand flows like waterDesert beetle

    Fossils, Date Farm and Desert Camp

    22 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We’re on our way to the Sahara! But first we have a stop in Erfoud, where the economy is primarily based on date farming (in the Ziz valley) and fossil extraction and processing into works of art. This area is rich in fossils from the time when this area was a vast ocean. We saw fossils ranging from 480 to 520 million years old, and learned about the process of turning them from hunks of rock into beautiful art pieces.

    Changing from bus to Land Rovers, we stopped at an oasis and date farm. The community owns individual plots of date palms in the farm, and also plants subsistence crops for personal use—wheat, barley, cilantro, cabbage, carrots, and the like. The dates and other crops are watered through a series of canals, and the community members take turns channelling the water through their plot.

    Soon we turned off the road and traveled across the sand to our desert camp for two nights. We never get tired of seeing the different formations made by sand dunes and scouting out animal tracks.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Darryl, Nance, Diane & Sande
    A semi-nomadic tentSlightly more permanent nomadic structureOwner of the nomadic campOwner's daughter-in-law and grandsonTea and talk with the nomadsA Muslim cemetery (no longer in use)Learning about Gnawa music in a classroomGnawa music of black tribesGnawa music of black tribesThe vast SaharaLunch at a desert restaurant

    A Day in the Desert

    23 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Our day at camp began with a camel ride after breakfast. The scenery was beautiful, as were the clothing of the camel drivers, but 45 minutes was enough time, even with padding over the hump.

    Then we got into our relatively comfortable 4x4’s to drive out into the desert to meet with Mr. Amar and his family, a former nomad and now a semi-nomad. Two things changed his nomadic way of life—a longstanding drought, making it hard to find grazing ground for his herds of sheep and goats, and the 1994 closure of the Algerian border, which further limited his access to grazing land and markets for trading. So now he’s been here for six years, and no longer moves around.

    He lives part-time in a tent and part time in an adobe structure nearby (no roof), depending upon the temperatures. His son and daughter-in-law and their three children all live together. They have no refrigeration, so they buy what they need for the week at the weekly market, and dry, or preserve meat in oil or salt. He rents his camels for a living and his son is a seasonal worker.

    Next, we stopped by a Muslim cemetery right at the Algerian border. Mohamed talked a bit about Muslim burial rituals and a little bit about why the border was closed (some repercussions of the Cold War, look up the Sand War of 1963).

    Finally, we visited a school and demonstration site for Gnawa music. This music is a bit like gospel music, in that it arose from black tribes—some nomadic farmers, some slaves.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Basket on winch to clear the irrigation canal
    Mohamed explaining the winch processAnother of the chutes dug for clearing the canalInside the former irrigation canalLeaving the desertDriving out of the desert17th century ‘ksar,’ the fortified village of El KhorbatInside the ksar's museum of Berber cultureVery old handwritten Berber contractsAmphoraeWood-fired cooking on the roof since no chimneysLunch at the ksar's restaurantCamel tagine

    17th century village comes back to life

    24 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Another long driving day, but with interesting stops along the way, as we’ve come to expect from Mohamed.

    We visited an irrigation tunnel built sometime between the 12th & 14th centuries to show us how communities managed to get water to their villages and date palm groves in the desert before mechanization. The underground canal was probably five miles long, all hand-dug, from the water source in the High Atlas Mountains to its destination. The lengthy canal had a series of deep holes dug from the surface to allow maintenance of the canal if it got plugged up at any point along the line. A guy had to be lowered down into the canal to clear the mud wile another stayed on the surface to raise the baskets of mud and eventually raise the unfortunate person underground once the work was completed. Nowadays, the water is all dried up and it’s a bit of a tourist attraction to go down into the tunnel (large enough to stand up in).

    We passed by a village in the middle of nowhere with large fancy homes that are mostly vacant. At the end of WWII, the French recruited Moroccan men to help rebuild France, since sadly, there weren’t as many men left in France at the time. The workers thought they would go over and work for a couple of years, then come back to the nice homes they had recently built. But they ended up staying (for the money, we suppose), and bringing their wives over, and having children. Three generations later, the families of those original workers feel that France is their home, and they only come back to these nice homes for a month or a few weeks each year.

    Next up was a 17th century ‘ksar,’ the fortified village of El Khorbat. The village had died out, but a foundation was established to restore the ksar and create a reason for people to come back to live there. They built a preschool and kindergarten, a museum of Berber culture and a restaurant. We were able to visit the 3- and 4-year-olds’ classroom, which was a very special experience! We were asked not to photograph the children, but I wish you could have seen and heard them. They are native Berber speakers, but since primary school and up is taught in Arabic, this school is preparing the kids for a future of education. In Mohamed’s (Berber) generation, many kids did not complete school beyond 6th grade or earlier because of the language gap. He said Arabic and Berber are as different as Spanish and Chinese, including having different alphabets. The kids sang songs to us in French and in Arabic, and we sang “Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes” to them!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Fortified city of Ait ben Haddou, 11th century caravan stop
    1Noor Solar Power StationMoroccan film studioAit ben HaddouWomen's rug cooperativeLunchtime!Lunch in a family homeTichka Pass, highest mountain pass of North AfricaTichka Pass (from internet)Coming down the mountain

    Road of a Thousand Kasbahs

    25 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Today was another long drive day to Marrakech from the Sahara, but again Mohamed kept us entertained with true stories of bad kings and disappeared kings and how Morocco became a French protectorate (long story), and many other interesting topics, hence the long write-up!

    One of the things we talked about (and saw evidence of) was the Green Morocco Plan, a program the government started in 2008 as a way of increasing agriculture production, encouraging investment in the country and supporting farmers. The government is covering 60-80% of the cost of farm development. They used to give the money up front until an Italian guy came in and built one wall and then disappeared with the money. So now farmers have to start the work and supply receipts to get reimbursed. Crops include olive, almond and carob trees, and roses. Over 50% of the rose products go to France for perfume.

    We passed by the Noor Solar Power Station (Arabic for light), currently the world's largest concentrated solar power plant. Inaugurated in 2016, the plant uses a range of technologies: parabolic mirrors and a tower for concentrated solar, tracking PV panels, and also various methods of solar storage. They are working on a cable to export solar electricity to the UK. Morocco gets over 300 days of sun per year.

    Our route to Marrakech, which traveled between the High Atlas and Low Atlas Mountains, took us through
    Ourzazate, affectionately known as “Mollywood.” The area’s scenery has provided atmospheric filming locations for films like The Jewel of the Nile, American Sniper, Indiana Jones and many more. Morocco’s movie industry dates back to 1930, and the annual Marrakesh International Film Festival draws big names.

    Our main stop today was to the fortified city (ksar) of Ait ben Haddou, an 11th century caravan stop listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. None of the current buildings are believed to date from before the 17th century, but the city maintains its historic appearance thanks to Hollywood-funded cosmetic restoration. A number of years ago, Mohamed ran across Nicole Kidman dismounting a horse as they were filming “Queen of the Desert” here.

    The old ksar suffered a fair amount of damage in the September 2023 earthquake. The outer walls were quickly patched up to keep the film industry and tourists coming, but the interiors are still structurally unsound. That didn’t keep many tourists away, as you can see in our photos, but Mohamed refused to take us in there, and we were happy to comply.

    Just across the river from the historic site, a new city was built many decades ago, and it was in the new city that we got to visit a women’s rug collective and have a delicious $4 lunch in the owner’s home nextdoor.

    Before we could get to Marrakech, we had to cross over the High Atlas Mountains once again, this time at the Tichka pass. This is the highest major mountain pass of North Africa, at nearly 7,500 feet above sea level. Fortunately, the roads are in great shape and we have an excellent bus driver!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Bahia Palace garden
    Decorative ceiling of the Bahia PalaceCats everywhere!Street scenesOur spice market / herbal pharmacySpices and medicinal herbsOur groupJardin MajorelleVilla at Jardin MajorelleLa Paillote French restaurant

    Marrakech: Palace, Spices & Markets

    26 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Marrakech is a bustling tourist city, and the fourth largest in Morocco. With its fortress walls and buildings constructed of red sandstone, the city has been given the nickname of the "Red City" or "Ochre City." The walls surround a large market square, with many shop stalls and eateries.

    Our first visit of the day was to the Bahia palace. This was not built for royalty, but for a vizier (like prime minister) and his four wives. It was built over 12 years in the late 1880s. With its colorful mosaic tile floors and walls, and decorative painted ceilings, some call it the Alhambra in miniature. At one time carpets would have covered the floors in a pattern woven to match the painted ceiling (or the other way around).

    Next, we were told we would visit a spice market. Well, this place called itself an herbal pharmacy and was licensed by the ministry of health. I guess that’s what you want for your cooking ingredients, but it didn’t have the exotic appeal of the spice markets you see in the old movies. Still, we learned a lot and came away with some tagine spices, saffron and other aromatics (coming your way, Ryan and Erin!).

    Our last stop of the day was to the garden of French painter Jacques Majorelle, who built a villa and established a kind of experimental garden of cacti and succulent, along with date palms (and we saw a Buddha’s Hand plant in fruit, too!). By the 1950s the site had fallen into disrepair, and in the 1980s, designers Yves-St. Laurent and his business partner took it over and expanded the garden. There is an excellent Berber museum on the site of what used to be the workshop of Yves St. Laurent.

    Dinner tonight was at a French restaurant called La Paillote, which means a thatched house in French, and it really did feel like one of the African lodges we’d visited.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Kitchen briefing
    Array of spices for taginePrepping the veggiesSeasoning the lamb tagineSouce combo for fish tagineTagine vessel is placed on a bed if wood charcoalGetting the charcoal hotWaiting...waiting...Kitchen garden at AmadLamb tagine (prunes, nuts and cinnamon)Fish tagine (lemon, veggies, parsley, cilantro)Chicken tagine (preserved lemon, onions & olives)

    Learning to Make Tajine

    27 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    Today’s visit in Marrakech was really inspiring. We visited the Amad (‘Hope’) Center, a nonprofit women’s training center. Women who come from disadvantaged backgrounds or abusive situations are given the opportunity to learn cooking-related job skills and some foreign languages to help them succeed in the tourist industry.

    After a 9 month program, the women graduate as chefs or cooks in hotels, riads or restaurants. They have a 90% success rate of placing graduates in good jobs, or setting up their own business. Amad gives women scholarships for living expenses and stipends for their children, if they have them. The center has had 325 graduates so far and supports itself with offering catering, cooking classes (like ours) and selling cookbooks, totes, etc. A foundation called Global Pearls matches their earnings 50-50.

    Currently, the center is providing earthquake relief in the form of sandwiches for the villages affected; building wooden shelters to replace the tents people are living in; and packaging and selling the walnuts and almonds harvested by the village farmers now that their access to market is more limited.

    Now on to our experience! The chef (a graduate), along with a couple of assistants, instructed us on making 3 kinds of tagines—chicken, lamb and fish. Each had its own combination of spices and accompanying vegetables or fruits. They have a well-tended garden adjacent to their instructional kitchen. The staff were particular about making an attractive presentation as we built our layers of ingredients. Once everything was just so, the lids were placed on the tagines and the whole vessel was set over a charcoal wood fire. Normally , this meal would cook half a day or so, but we shortened that up so we could sit down to lunch and enjoy our efforts. Having eaten several tagines already in our Morocco travels, we felt we’d been taught well—very tasty!

    A traditional tea ceremony followed, with green tea, mint, lemongrass and lemon geranium leaves. The tea is poured out high above the glasses (no mugs) to help cool it and oxygenate it, and not filled too full so you can pick it up at the top and not burn your fingers. We were told (as a joke?) that if you don’t want someone to return to your home, you pour their tea glass all the way full!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Marrakech market square at night
    Marrakech market square in the daylightFamily-oriented gameMusicians at dinnerProbably not a Moroccan, but locals are happy to gather for free musicHorse carriage ride at night

    Marrakech at Night

    27 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Mohamed still had more in store for us on our Marrakech cooking class day. The plan was to see how the market square transforms after dark, by visiting before and after dinner at a nearby restaurant. Before dark, “snake charmers” (yes, real cobra snakes), and guys with small apes (like we saw on our little hike in the cedar forest) pose for photos—for a price. We decided not to find out the price. The snake charmers aren’t allowed in the square after dark because one got away and caused a panic in the square. There were also some “ring the bottle” games set up for families to vie for a prize.

    Our nearby restaurant served a wonderful selection of cold plates like spiced eggplant, mild green chilies and onions, carrots with parsley, etc. and warm bread, phyllo-wrapped tasty bites, and beef and chicken skewers. Musicians accompanied much of dinner, making table conversation a little difficult, but they were enthusiastic and colorful.

    Leaving the restaurant after dark, we could see how the square had really come alive—music groups were set up, ringed by locals on stools clapping and enjoying the music; the food stalls were in full swing, and street hawkers exhibited their light-up toys.

    Capping off the day was a ride back to our hotel in a horse carriage. These carriages used to be a typical mode of transportation in Marrakech, but now they are mainly for tourists.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    King Hassan II Mosque
    Retractable RoofIn the ablution (washing) roomTitanium doorsAt the Casablanca mall aquariumDon't get to see the underside of a ray very often

    Casablanca: Mosque of Hassan II

    28 lutego 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    This morning we said farewell to Marrakech and boarded our bus for a final distance drive — to Casablanca. After about three hours of travel, we stopped for lunch at the food court of the largest shopping mall in Morocco. Mohamed thought we might enjoy the juxtaposition between the old market of last night and the “new market.” We will say that shopping malls are probably still in their heyday in Morocco, if this one is anything to judge by. The storefronts were all occupied with upscale vendors (American, European and Moroccan), and the place was kept immaculately clean by an army of workers. A large cylindrical aquarium was featured at the center. Interesting stop after all!

    Then it was on to a visit the enormous mosque of King Hassan II, completed in 1993 after just 7 years. The project is estimated to have cost as much as $700 million, funds that were remarkably raised mostly from public donations (questionable about how voluntary those donations were). But Moroccans seem to be genuinely proud of their monument.

    The tile, wood and plaster work inside and out is exquisite, and the mosque has some interesting features, including a retractable roof. The purpose is to provide spiritual contemplation (and ventilation?) for the up to 25,000 worshippers who can fit inside. On special holy days up to another 80,000 can fit in the plaza outside.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Diane and DarrylMorocco: Kasbahs and CamelsDiane and Darryl
    Post Office
    Hall of JusticeOn the grounds of the Hall of JusticeArt nouveau building detailConcert HallIn Arab League Park with former cathedral behindArab League ParkA good example of Berber writingSkate Park

    A Bit More Casablanca

    1 marca 2024, Maroko ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    The Collette tour has ended, but we took one last look around Casablanca on our own. We followed a self-guided walking tour that took us through a beautiful city park (Arab League Park) with a fun playground, the Hall of Justice (complete with black gown-and-white ascot-wearing barristers, we suppose); a beautiful art deco post office and other sights.

    Now we head on to our next trip (and separate blog). Morocco has been a welcoming country, and we really enjoyed seeing and learning about the craftsmanship in their building details and rug designs. We learned a lot from Mohamed about the culture of the country and its people.
    The cities were pretty clean (so many workers out picking up trash and sweeping), and the food is just outstanding!     Czytaj więcej

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    Koniec wyprawy
    1 marca 2024
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