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Camino Portuguese
  • Steps with Lynne
Sep – Oct 2023

Camino Portuguese

Soon I’ll be off to start my second Camino. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 5, 2023
    Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler

    Getting Ready

    September 2, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Time for another Camino!

    In 2021, I walked the Camino Frances about 800 km/500 miles, from St Jean Pied de Port, France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain.

    On Tuesday, September 5, I’ll be leaving for Lisbon, Portugal. On Saturday, September 9, I will begin walking the Camino Portuguese, from Lisbon to Santiago. Approximately 640 km/400 miles.

    The attached map shows four main routes. I will follow:
    = Leaving Lisbon on the Red/Camino Central all the way to Porto
    = Leaving Porto will take the Blue/Senda Litoral (along the coast) for 1.5 days
    = 10km/6.2 miles after Labruge, I will cut inland and join the Red/Central at Sao Pedro de Rates.
    = Cross the border into Spain at Tui.
    = Stay on Red/Central all the way to Pontevedra
    = At Pontevedra switch to the Purple/Variante Espiritual
    = At Padron back on the Red/Central into Santiago de Compostela, Spain

    So about 85% of the walk will be in Portugal. I’ve never been to Portugal, so am excited to experience the culture and people. Plus meeting other pilgrims!

    I am planning to post on most days, so if you choose, go on the journey with me. Keep me in your thoughts for a safe & healthy pilgrimage.

    Bom Caminho/ Buen Camino

    Note: you do NOT have to register (get an account) to view my posts. You will not be able to make comments. If you are on Facebook, I’ll be posting same narrative, but more photos. Search for Lynne Nitschke Newark    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Called Green wine tastes like Processo
    Rooftops1Cobblestone design making it look like waves3Azulejo tile on outside of buildingFunicular Gloria. Rode up the hillA little cafe i ate st twice!So many hills, steps, cobblestones1More Azulejo tileTrying the local Ginjinha a cherry liqueur2The famous pastry shop that makes pastel de belem. A custard filled pastry.

    Being a Tourist in Lisboa

    September 5, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Hola from Lisboa! Before I start walking the Caminho Portuguese, I’ve been playing tourist. What a busy city. Locals are very friendly. Getting around I’ve mainly relied on my two feet, but have used the metro/buses, which is very easy to use. A lot of hills. All sidewalks are cobblestone, plus most of the older streets. Have not seen anyone wearing high heels!

    Instead of going into all that I’ve seen I’ll touch on highlights. Checkout the Sandemans New Europe www.newEuropetours.eu they have free walking tours not only in Lisbon. The guide Bruno was excellent. You should put seeing a Fado show on your list. I did a simple ‘Get Your Guide’, 50 minute program with two singers & 2 guitarists. Simple but excellent.

    Not sure how many photos I’ve taken, but those I’ve attached have captions to give more info.

    Tomorrow, Saturday, I start walking. Thursday I did 10km/6.2 miles of the route, so I’m not starting out with a 32.7km day. Late morning I will take the metro to the point I stopped on Thursday.

    Enjoy & welcome to the journey. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    On funicular heading downhill
    1Street art made from recycled trashFirst Caminho marker i sawOld monasterySmall townStopped in Alpriate for a beerAnd lunchTownsfolk in the cafeGuess i will go Left!Boardwalk path

    Day 1 - Parque dos Nacoes to Verdelha de

    September 9, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Day 1 - Parque das Nacoes to Verdelha de Baxio. 24.1k/15m. Walking time 4:57.
    Steps 31,156. Calories 1166. Mike D know you want to know!

    My first official day of walking started outside of Lisbon, because I walked Lisbon to Parque das Nacoes on Thursday. It was very nice to cut off almost 10k.

    This morning, I headed out the door and it immediately started pouring rain, so went back in & waited about 15 minutes.

    One thing I know for sure - wet cobblestone is like ice! Instead of walking down the steep hill from my room took one last funicular Gloria ride. Then the metro to Parque.

    No rain. Partly cloudy. Sort of warm & sweaty, but when you have a 12# pack on your back you are working hard.

    Highlight of the day: ate lunch at the only cafe, in the very small town of Alpriate. It was the gathering place for all the locals. I snuck a photo!

    I did not see another pilgrim until leaving Alpriate (15k mark). Alex, from the Netherlands, just finished high school & is taking a gap year. We walked together for about 4K. Time/distance sure flies by when someone is doing it with you.

    Had quite a bit of dirt trail walking. One section was quite muddy. Otherwise good path conditions.

    Staying in a hostel with my own room & bathroom. A gentleman from Mexico arrived before me and he walked from Lisbon. Yikes! About 34km.

    Enjoy the journey. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    First sunrise for this Camino
    First path marker for the day1Some markers are unique1This dog was the most beautiful gorgeous I've ever seen1Statute of Laborers1Thing this is a train station. Azulejo tile1More path markers & a bit of the pathTrain station waiting to hitch a ride1Sitting in the church square with locals & pilgrims.2Cat peeking in my window. She was sitting on the roof next door

    Day 2 Verdelha to Azambuja

    September 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Day 2 - Verdelha to Azambuja. 10 September. Started 6:07 am. Stopped 2:45 pm. 30.5k/18.9mi. Walking time 6h7m. 40,866 steps. 1,427 calories.

    Great weather for walking. Clouds kept temperature down. Long day for walking. Took a route that was marked & then not marked, which ended up with me on the wrong side of the railroad tracks! Could not see a way around ‘legally’ & safe, so back tracked 3.5 km. The town was right there! So instead of 6k to where I would spend the night, with the backtracking, it was 13k. I was beat, so did the smart thing & took the train the last 6k.

    Seeing a few more pilgrims - 4 on the path & 5 in the town we were all sleeping. Didn’t get the chance to walk with anyone. Maybe tomorrow.

    That was my day! Enjoy the journey. Bom Caminho Photos have captions.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    First Camino path marker for the day
    1River/stream along the pathFog lifting across the tomato fields1Tomato field waiting to be harvested1Harvesting equipment2I love taking photos of old doors. This one has Azulejo tile2Valada laying on bench waiting for hostel to open.2Not a happy toe. Drained blister under nail. Antiseptic.1

    Day 3 Azambuja - Valada

    September 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Day 3 - Azambuja to Valada. 11 September started @ 08:12 & stopped at about 11:45. 13k/8.1m. Walking time 2h32m. 16,642 steps. 581 calories.

    Before I share my day want to remember September 11, 2001. Those that died. Their families & friends. Unfortunately, it is a date many of us will remember - where we were & who we were with. The world changed on that day.

    My day started a bit later, because I had a short walking day. I needed one! And I didn’t go off the wrong direction!

    Before leaving Azambuja had a coffee and pastry. From the photos you will see it was sort of foggy & overcast. Great walking weather. The clouds cleared about an hour in.

    It was a day of walking among the tomato fields. Periodically there were some laying along the road. Yes, I did pick up a good one, rubbed off the dirt and ate it! Just like growing up rub off the dirt & enjoy.

    The hostel did not open until 2 pm, so I had some time to put my feet up & people watch.

    Photo captions give a bit more.

    Enjoy the journey! Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    3The huge Tejo River
    11Pano of the dike. It is huge1Meat bean soup with fresh bread & 1906 beerWalking on the dike1My next Vespa2Steps from the dike to the town streetFabric caricature of Lady of Fatima. Hostel named Dos Caminhos. Two Caminhos. Fatima & Portuguese1Santiago for Caminó Portuguese

    Additions to Day 3

    September 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Additions to day 3. After yesterday’s posting I went to find a place to eat and discovered a whole new landscape to the small town of Valada.

    There is a huge dike wall between the Tejo River and the town. The place I ate was right on the river.

    Enjoy more from Day 3 with photos & captions. Bom Caminho    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    1
    2Sunrise over Tejo River1First path marker for the dayFlat country road2Santarem in the distance1My bed cubicle. Privacy curtain. My own light & electric plugChurch in town1Very old balcony1Mr cat was showing offI think ill be walking down there tomorrow2Scampi in garlic sauce

    Day 4 Valada to Santarem

    September 12, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Day 4 - Valada to Santarem. 12 September. Started at 07:33. Finished at 12:03. 20.2k/12.6m. Walking time 3h42m. 24,108 steps. 914 calories.

    As I was typing in the calories I realized the figure is based on my body weight. Wonder what it would be if I added 12# for the weight of my pack. Let’s face it carry around a 12# dumbbell for over 12 miles you use more energy.

    It was a very good day for walking. Weather was absolutely perfect. The toes were good. I think my body is beginning to adapt to my 12# pack.

    Got a great sunrise photo over the Tejo River. Many would find today’s path very boring. Not much to see. Landscape pretty much the same all day. But I like days like this - filled with farm fields and smells that take me back to North Dakota. Something about smelling fresh tilled dirt!

    Followed the dike for a long time and then cut through a vineyard. Having the high dike provided some great shade! Also, adding to today’s boring side - only one town. And that was 3k from the start, so too soon to stop. Had a 3+km hill at the end leading into Santarem. I love hills - going up. Saw two pilgrims on the trail. So those staying in the hostel did not catch up to me.

    Played tourist in Santarem. Had a good filling lunch/early supper. Staying in a modern , new hostel. Right now only two of us in a 6 bunk room.

    Okay, I know you all want to hear about my toes! Well did not have a restful sleep. They were not hurting, but my brain just had to find a solution to my toe dilemma. I believe I found it. Since I wear sandals my toes were not hitting the front or top of my shoes. But I grip with my toes and the first small toe joint, instead of rounding up it presses down. Sort of like it’s double jointed but it is not. That joint compression pushes down right below the nail bed. Anyway, how do you prevent that from happening. My solution was to take a small wad of cotton ball and tape it to the bottom of my toe where the joint bends in. Well it worked. Still had to drain the blisters but not much fluid and no swelling, redness or pain.

    Photos had captions. Also added a couple videos. Hope you enjoy the journey. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    1Sunrise over Tejo river
    2First pilgrim marker for the daySantiago Gate2Tejo river22Kitty at the place im stayingGreen wine2The 4 pilgrims having a communal dinner

    Day 5 Santarem- Azinhaga

    September 13, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Day 5 - Santarem to Azinhaga. 13 September. Started @ 7:21 am. Finished at 2:15 pm. 27.3k/17m. Walking time 5h06m. 32,564 steps. 1214 calories.

    Wow there are other pilgrims walking. At the Santiago gate I came across 6 pilgrims. Started walking with a couple and once we got out of town our pace was different, so off I went. Unfortunately did not see them the rest of the day. The other four I saw and sat with to have breakfast & coffee. Left and walked with Denise from Edmonton, Canada for the rest of the way, until I stopped and she was walking to the next town.

    Walked through vineyards and corn fields almost all day. So easy on the legs. Denise and I were gabbing too intently and missed an arrow so had to backtrack about 2 km.

    I’m staying at Casa dos Portas and what a gem. 800 m off the Caminho path, but worth the effort. It had a swimming pool! Newer building and had a garden just very relaxing place to wind down. Had my first communal pilgrim meal. The four of us staying here ate together.

    Already late so making this a bit short.

    Enjoy the photos and the journey. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    1

    Day 6 more photos

    September 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Along the path came across Palacio da Quinta da Cardiga. Used to belong to the Templar Knights from the Christ order. Elements from 1500’s & glazed tiles from 16/17 centuries. Several buildings - tower, chapel, wine storage, barn, cloister, palace. Also an old bridge that was used.Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Sunrise on Day 6. Example of road walked on for 9km
    One of the churches in Azinhaga. Love how the morning sun is highlighting it1Old milepost sign to Golega. With newer official Caminho markerHuge church in Golega1Azulejo tile panel on side wall1Azulejo tile panel on side wall1Behind the altar1Breakfast! Plus Peregrino shell on my pack. Pilgrim credential/passport1'Passport' stamps so far1Cat's owner bring him to park. Has coffee. Cat roams around. Owner calls when it's time to go.

    Day 6 Azinhaga-VilaNovadeBarquinha

    September 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    Day 6 - Azinhaga to Vila Nova da Barquinha. 14 September. Started @ 7:12 am. Finished @ 12:30 pm. 19.4K/12.1m. Walking time 3h35m. 23,012 steps. 870 calories.

    A beautiful morning for a walk! Hated to leave Casa da Portes, but it’s a new day and a new place to go. Left before other 3 pilgrims.

    Walked through Azinhaga, about 800m down the road and for small town had a lot of churches.

    First 9k to Golega it was not the most pleasant walking day due to walking on a busy road with a very narrow dirt shoulder. Had to be very diligent to cars, buses, trucks, semis, big tractors.

    Upon entering Golega, toward the town square, came around the corner to see the church. Another out loud WOW. The inside was surprising - no gold alter but instead had beautiful tiles. Stayed in the square for an unhealthy breakfast of two pastries & double espresso!

    Just as I was leaving Debbie & Andy arrived! We are hoping to meet up in Tomar on Friday. Then as I was crossing the road, exiting the town, ran into Mikola. So the two of us walked together until I turned off in Vila Nova Barquinha.

    Along the way we came across an old palace that was used by the Templar Knights. It was so incredible.

    Photos have captions.

    Thanks for going on the journey. Bom Caminho    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Sunrise a bit late!
    1st Caminho path marker for the dayWater fountain to fill your bottle. If not potable it will have a signDifferent trees that were whiteish on the undersideLook like evergreens from a distanceJust walked up that long hillMore different looking trees1Top of another hill!

    Day 7 VNDB to Tomar

    September 15, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Day 7 - Vila Nova de Barquinha to Tomar September 15

    Started at 7:54 am. Finished at 1:30 pm. 22.9k/14.2m. Walking time 4h32m. Steps 29,016. Calories 1,099.

    Left a bit later since it was not supposed to be as warm. I’ve discovered this Caminho so far doesn’t have the shade nor as many little towns along the path. So you have to plan to have your water, snacks, with you. The day turned out to be a mixture of terrain & landscape. I liked the walk today. One thing I’ve been working on is not walking so fast & today I accomplished that. In the end my toes thanked me, but my hips did not!

    Started out on city streets, moved to forest/logging roads, county roads and back to city.

    There was only one town on the way that had a cafe and it was perfectly positioned- half way point. Just before the stop another pilgrim joined me. Vicky is Hungarian living in Poland. We enjoyed our snacks and drinks together. She went ahead and I happily did not match her pace.

    Did a bit of sightseeing and ran into some pilgrims I’ve met over the last 6 days.

    Enjoy the photos with captions. I’ll put in two posts

    Thank you for going on the journey. Bom Caminho    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    View from castle
    Entrance to castleMy breakfast

    Day 8 Rest Day in Tomar

    September 16, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 72 °F

    Day 8 Rest Day in Tomar. Saturday, September 16. Sightseeing walked 9.5k/6m

    It’s raining! Thunder & lightening too. Ventured out about 9:00. Hit the pharmacy for some foot cream with exfoliate for my rough heels and more tape. Had a healthy breakfast of scrambled eggs, greens and bacon. Got an extra pair of socks, if I decide to start wearing them for my walks.

    Pouring Rain Again. Chilled out in my nice big, bright, airy room for a couple hours. Then it was off for a hike up to the Templar Castle & Convent of Christ.

    The Templar Castle was built in 1160 in the image of Middle-East castles. I was able to walk around the grounds and the walls. Photos provide an idea of its size.

    Convent of Christ (World Heritage site) part of castle grounds and built from the 12th century. It was home to the Order of Christ from the 14c onwards. This place is massive. I took a lot of photos. Just hard to explain the art, tiling, architecture, etc.

    Visited a couple churches and back to room to get my pack reorganized. It sure was nice not to have to pack it all up & put it on today! Tomorrow back to the path.

    Enjoy the photos and captions. Bom Caminho    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Convent of Christ
    111The chapel inside the conventLong hall wsy of monks cells11

    Day 8 more Photos

    September 16, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 72 °F

    More photos of rainy day in Tomar

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    First marker of the day. Had to really look for it
    Roman bridgeSign said 10% grade. Think it was a bit more!No dign must be good to drinkFriendly entertaining cat in coffee shopDo not drink! But sure looks invitingWhsy does the male goat have a coat on?Landscape for today plus the cloudsPhoto doesn't show how hard it was rainingFor that adk how the toes are doing. Much improved!!

    Day 9 Tomar to Cortica

    September 17, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

    Day 9 Tomar to Cortica, Sunday, September 17

    Started @ 6:57 am. Finished @ 1:45 pm. 26.9k/16.7m. Walking time 5h19m. Steps 34,048. Calories 1,320.

    Ready for the rain and it did rain. Rain gear was handy and took it on/off about 4 times.

    Start time had high clouds and perfect for short sleeve tee shirt. Put on the rain gear about 11k mark. A couple down pours with light steady rain mixed in. Thankfully no thunder & lightning.

    Met more Americans today - 2 - South Carolina, 3 - Oregon, 1 - Minnesota.

    The entire day afforded only one place to stop for coffee. Luckily it was at the half way point. Overall had a lot of dirt trails and some small, paved country roads. Beautiful walking through small villages, forested areas. Days like this the miles past by easily.

    Enjoy the journey. Photos have captions. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    First spied camino marker for todsy
    Many varieties of trail surfaces todsyCowsLillies i assume on the wild side since see them all overFog liftingTile pictures on the outside of many housesWater fountain. Sign said no drink!Of course a door!

    Day 10 - Cortica to Ansiao

    September 18, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Day 10 - Cortica to Ansiao, Monday, September 18.
    Started @ 7:25 am. Finished @ 12:30. 19.5k/12.1 mi. Walking time 4h6m. Steps 25,494. Calories 953.

    This was the best day walking so far. Weather was perfect. Path had different varieties (paved, dirt, rocks, cobblestone). Passed through a few small villages and that helped the km/miles go faster.

    Lots of vegetation - wild & planted. Tons of olive trees. Saw some critters - cows, dogs,cats.

    Came across some pilgrims I met yesterday and walked with them a bit - 2 from Eugene walked with the two Germans, and Pete & Jess from Charleston.

    Upon arriving in Ansiao found a nice tapas cafe. Jess & Pete joined me and had good conversation (Camino, presidential candidates, college sports).

    I’m staying in a house that is 2k out of town so Olga came to pick me up and she will take me back in the morning. Steve (British) Olga (Portuguese) made me feel very welcome. Fresh baked cookies and cold, filtered water. They have a beautiful nature garden, 2 cats, 2 dogs. I’m the only one here. The other room was not rented out tonight.

    Anyway, getting geared up for a long day tomorrow.

    Enjoy the journey. Photos have captions. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Just another door
    AcornsDirection signsRocky & sometimes muddy path2Wild Iris. Growing alon the rocky path1Lady riding on the back sitting in a chairLical cheese from Rabalcal (walk thru tomorrow) soft whiteCat at house im stayingDog where im staying

    Day 10 - More photos

    September 18, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    More photos.

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    1First msrker of the dsy with my legs
    Me and my shadowA path that looked like most for the dayRoman roadJess & PeteGrapes from vineyard they were harvestingHippie placeWonder how many pilgrims took a rest on this benchNot far to go!!Mosaic at Roman ruin

    Day 11 Ansiao - Conimbriga

    September 19, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Day 11 - Ansiao to Conimbriga, Tuesday, September 19.

    Started @ 7:51am. Finished @ 4:25pm. 30.8k/29.1m. Walking time 6h24m. Steps 39,424. Calories 1,471.

    My host Olga provide me with a great send off for my very long day on the Caminho. Fresh fruit, yogurt, fresh bread, cheese, excellent coffee, juice, homemade marmalade (figs, pears w/carmelized almonds). For the road I took a boiled egg from her chickens & a small roll of bread, which I ended up eating for my supper. Olga then drove me to the edge of town where the Caminho path will lead me to Conimbriga 30+k away. Olga is my Camino Angel for the day.

    Chilly & clear morning. Wore my long sleeve tee, but could have unpacked my micro puffy jacket! Anyway an hour in the tee shirt came off!

    Great path trails today. Very little paved roads. Mostly on dirt, sometimes rocky country paths through tree, vineyard, garden areas. I even walked on a portion of the old Roman road. Not my favorite or easiest on the feet, toes, legs, but it was only for a short stretch.

    Coffee stop Aimee (MN) & Jess/Pete (SC) were just leaving. Met up with J/P a couple more times. Aimee is staying in the same Albergue with me tonight.

    Stopped for lunch/supper about 12k from my night stopped. Where I’m going doesn’t have a good place to eat, so this is it for today. P&J arrived as I was leaving.

    Just before Conimbriga stopped at Condeixa-A-Velha, the largest best preserved Roman settlement in Portugal. Romans arrived here in 139BC. It was a large complex and wished I wasn’t so tired to take in more.

    Arrived at Albergue de Conimbriga and all but one other person had already arrived. Thankfully the owner reserved a bottom bunk for me! So 8 of us in a bunk room, 2 toilets, 2 showers, 1 sink & a small kitchen for those that wanted to cook.

    A man from Germany is here. He walked all the way from Germany!!!! Not sure what path that was. He is 69. Also here are 2 from Eugene, 2 German father/son, Tracy from USA/Germany. So 5 Americans & 3 Germans!

    Enjoy the journey. Photos gave captions. Bom Caminho    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Sunrise
    Stream flowing through a villageFind the $$ billAqueduct entering CoimbraCoimbraInse chrvh dedicsted to Queen IsabelleMy lunch cod with tomato riceView of walkway below my apartment windowView as im enjoying a glass of port

    Day 12 Conimbriga-Coimbra

    September 20, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Day 12 - Conimbriga to Coimbra, September 20, Wednesday

    Started at 7:41 am. Finished at 12:30 pm. 17.6k/10.9m. 3h36m walking time. 22,144 steps. 837 calories.

    After yesterday’s marathon+ today was a piece of cake. Not sore or hurting after the long day. Today was mostly paved roads. Walked alone first 6k. Stopped for coffee and who did I see - Aimee from MN! She stayed & we walked into Coimbra together the last 11k.

    Stopped at Mosteiro de Santa Clara-A-Nova. Got a stamp in my pilgrim passport. Visited the church which was massive. Crossed over the wide Mondego river and into old town.

    Stopped to eat and then to our separate accommodations. May be the last time I see Aimee and other pilgrims from the last 3 days. They are continuing on the Camino path tomorrow and I am taking a rest day. Not so much to rest but to be a tourist.

    Staying in an ABnB apartment in old town and love it.

    Enjoy the journey. Photos have captions. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Inside one of many churches
    Mosaic entering university square portalUniversity clock towerUniversity squareView of river below from university viewpointAqueduct running through universityStudents leaving classesSardines & jewish sausageBeans in sauceSponge cake with slightly cooked egg on top then a coat of powdered sugar

    Day 13 Rest Day

    September 21, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    Day 13 Rest Day in Coimbra, Thursday, September 21. 9.5k/5.9m

    Saw quite a few churches today. Most were within 300m of each other.

    Also climbed the hill up to the University. It is the oldest in Europe. Wow, to be able to study in such a historical setting.

    I went on a Food & Wine Tour that included visiting three places.

    Tomorrow I resume my walk to Santiago!

    Enjoy. Photos & some captions. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Statue of St James
    A portion of a huge mural dedicated to pilgrims on the CaminhoA young tomcatGod Bacchus sitting on a keg of wineTile picturing suckling pigSmall portion of path today through forest land1st course - beer, regional bread, fresh cheese2nd course- suckling pig, salad, homemade chip friesSuckling pig - love the crispy outer skinEgg yolk cake

    Day 14 Coimbra - Sernadelo

    September 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    Day 14 - Coimbra to Sernadelo
    September 22, Friday

    Started 7:30 am. Finished 1:25 pm. 24.6k/15.3m. Walking time 4h59m. Steps 31,378. Calories 1,124.

    Left behind the large university city & headed further north. Weather was perfect with a mix of sun & partly cloudy. A lot of pavement walking, but only a short portion on a busy highway (with a wide shoulder to walk on). All in all a good walking day.

    I felt a little a drift today. The 7 people I have been consistently seeing, eating with, staying in same place over the last 5 days are all one day ahead of me. That is what happens when you take a rest day. So I’m now presented the opportunity to meet new pilgrims. I did run into Peter from Britain, who I met in Tomar.

    Okay, the highlight of the day - I ate like a pig! The area I’m staying is known for its suckling piglet. Well had to try it. I ate like a person possessed! Started with a beer, fresh cheese and regional bread. Second course pig, homemade chip fries, salad and red wine. Finally Dessert cake. Photos show it all.

    Enjoy the journey. Photos with captions. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Notice the very tall, skinny tree in the foreground
    Sunrise through the trees = perfect photoRooster - another one!Kiwi fruit on trellis vinesStopped for coffee & croissantVillage street- walked on many of these todayAlmost there? Add on 1.8k to the Albergue

    Day 15 Sernadelo to Águeda

    September 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    Day 15 - Sernadelo to Águeda
    Saturday, September 23

    Started at 7:19 am. Finished at 1:45 pm. 25.9k/16.1m. Walking time 5h11m. Steps 32,220. Calories 1,183.

    Highlight for the day - got to see a beautiful sunrise! Had to dig out the puffy jacket this morning. Chilly. Sunny day of walking the Camino path. Mostly all pavement.

    Seeing a few more pilgrims on the Camino path. It appears we are walking the same distance which means possibly staying in the same Albergue. Tonight Ralph/Ameka (Netherlands), Peter (UK), Italian guys, Brazil gentleman, & Eza are here with me again.

    Enjoy the journey. Photos have captions. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Is that Lynne???
    2In one small town there were huge houses/mansions. Most were abandoned.Fountain plaque says 300 km to Santiago!!1Yard art to make pilgrims smile. It did me!Reconstructed Roman bridge with Roman foundationPart if trail today through eucalyptus forestDog at AlbergueSunset from my room

    Day 16 Águeda-AlbergariaANova

    September 24, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Day 16 - Águeda to Albergaria-A-Nova
    Sunday, September 24.

    Started at 7:09 am. Finished at 1:00 pm. 21.3K/13.2m. Walking time 4h22m. Steps 26,890. Calories 993.

    Up & out a bit earlier. Beautiful sunny day. Uneventful day. Went by fast. Walked through a few small towns, so quite a bit of pavement. Had some dirt paths through eucalyptus forest too.

    One highlight was stopping at Igreja Matrix. They were getting ready to start mass. A lot of younger couples with kids about 6 y.o. were outside and they all filed in together and sat in the front pews. I guess it was a special mass for the kids. Stayed for about 40 minutes and then left. The church was full!    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Old house. Caminho path went through the arch!Horrio where grain was storedEgg muffin pies corn spinachFresh baked carob cakeLarge beautiful church1Me with Jess (So Carolina), Aimee (MN)

    Day 17 AlbANova -Sao Joao de Madeira

    September 25, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Day 17 - Albergaria-a-Nova to Sao João de Madeira
    Monday, September 25

    Started at 7:16. Ended at 2:00. 24.0k/14.9m. Walking time 4h46m. Steps 30,062. Calories 1,194.

    It was an unexpected hilly day. Quite a few steep portions and then downhills. Never really left city/urban area during the walk.

    Highlights of the day: seeing Jess/Peter on the trail a couple times. And then met up with Aimee (MN). The four of us and Peter/UK got together for dinner and had a great time. People help make moments into memories that last forever.

    Enjoy the journey. Photos have captions. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Sunrise on another day
    Church leaving SJDMSign outside an elementary schoolRoman Road definitely not easy to walk on2Updated stamps in my pilgrim passportMonastery near the Albergue

    Day 18 SJDM - Grijo

    September 26, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Day 18 - Sao João de Madeira to Grijo
    Tuesday, September 26

    Started at 7:14 am. Finished at 11:25 am. 18.8k/11.7m. Walking time 3h39m. Steps 23,966. Calories 868.

    Not much happened today. Other than walking on pavement. Walking along a very busy, noisy two lane highway and trying to cross the highway without a crosswalk or light.

    Did a short day because there is no accommodation between Grijo and Porto and definitely was not going to walk 35+k.

    Staying in Albergue S Salvador for E10. One of first to arrive, so had choice of room. Surprised there was an option of 2-bed or 6-bed rooms. Aimee and I chose the 2-bed room.

    Enjoy the journey. Photos have captions. Bom Caminho.    Read more

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