Rwanda Kuwinka

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  • Dzień 42

    Memorial and a hike...

    12 lutego 2016, Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Odd combination, I know. For most of the trip, Jack and I have found a way to compromise on our styles of traveling. I usually like to take my time, doing fewer towns whereas she likes to bus hop with our backpacks on from town to town, sleeping in the last one we wind up in. Unfortunately, a compromise means I don't get enough time in places and she doesn't get to move around as much as she's like. So for these last couple days, we're doing it her way. It's exhausting! Lol.

    Huye and Nyanza yesterday, today Murambi and Gisakura.

    Murambi had a memorial we wanted to see because, as per others, it was a very moving experience and they displayed preserved bodies exhumed from the mass graves. They were right. It started with much of the same information as the first memorial about the history before the genocide and the events that unfolded. But this specific site was set in a school where an estimate 50,000 people were killed between 3am and 11am April 21st. One day, 50,000 people. The bullet wholes still seen in the walls. Preserved bodies in lime (they become white), some showing expressions of terror, some holding each other, some holding their children. Tiny bodies, on display. After seeing this, you really wonder how anyone could ever have attempted to call this an ethnic war or civil war.

    Following this, a lovely walk back to town brought us to a bus, which brought us to a town, which had a car conveniently going to where we wanted to go, which drove us to Gisakura National Park head offices, which had the hike we wanted to do leaving NOW as per the office... I was starved! And we all know I don't do well hungry, and the hike is 4 hours long, and it's now 1pm and I haven't had lunch. Arg! So I bought 4 bananas and a waterbottle and rushed to change my shoes, and shot something angry at Jack to express my hatred for rushing, and off we went! I calmed down once I had my banana and cookies. :)

    The hike was through one of Africa's oldest rain forests, and the vegetation was absolutely gorgeous! You know you're amazed by everything when you listen to information like "that is the oldest plant on earth" - a fern - and you're amazed! The waterfall at the end was strong and perfect.

    Of course we thought 63$CAD was absurd for a room at the guest house across the street, so starved and grumpy we made our way to town, 8 long minutes of walking, to find a place for 37$CAD. Still not anywhere near our usual price, but Rwanda's expensive y'all! 50$US each for this 4 hour walk...

    Leaving on this trip, I had a set idea for a budget. Im the type to convert prices every now and then to make sure I'm still on my mark. I wanted to average a maximum of 100$US per day, since according to everything we read, Africa was expensive! This was to include safaris (if we do them), our hikes, diving when we get to the coast, everything. To my surprise, Ethiopia, the country in which we were spending the longest, was super easy on the budget! 35$US was our (very rough) calculations, right on par with the books budget suggestion of 30$US per day, seeing as it was written 3 years ago. Jack's more the type to just keep it as cheap as she can without holding back on things she wants, and it all works out in the end.

    Basically this little budget insert is maybe for those looking to do their own travels! No matter where you go in the world, there's expensive countries and there's cheaper ones. Rwanda - expensive. Food is double if not triple that of Ethiopia. Accommodation is double the price at its cheapest. Transportation is slightly more, but not crazy. Activities are all more expensive. The little we saw of Uganda, seems more affordable then here. Food at least was cheaper. I guess we'll find out when we tally everything in the end.
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  • Dzień 40

    Car mechanics on a construction site

    6 marca 2023, Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After we drove around aimlessly looking for a nice spot to work from, we headed toward the unrated guest house. The access road to it was rather dodgy and very steep. When we arrived at the guest house it turned out to be a construction site. I left the car to see if I can find anyone to talk to, but no such luck. I had already begun turning the car around in the steep dead end road when someone who seemed to be in charge approached our car from the side.

    He was the owner of the guest house and invited us in. There was a construction site all around us, and there was no internet, but he could prepare a table with chairs and some drinks for us, which is all we needed. I backed into the driveway, parked the car, and we set up office inside, away from the blazing heat of the sun.

    Seeing how there was no internet we had to Hotspot from my phone, which was sufficient for Anne to have her first call of the day, and I managed to get some work done as well. However, after a bit more than an hour, the connection suddenly dropped dead. It appeared as if the closest cellular tower was malfunctioning in a way, because it worked fine in one moment and not at all in the next. All of the people at the construction site had been eyeing us curiously, and now we were just making it even more interesting for them.

    Two muzungus (white people) show up out of nowhere, whip out their laptops on a construction site, have a few calls, and pack up again an hour later 🤣

    Since we couldn't work anymore due to lack of signal, we packed everything back into the car. I got into the drivers seat, turn the ignition, and... Nothing! Our second car had died as well. At the very bottom of a very steep hill, at the end of a private driveway, and we had no signal to call anyone ourselves. After laughing and despairing at the same time for a second or two, we managed to communicate with our host (who only spoke French and Kinyarwanda) that our car had broken down and we needed some mechanics. We couldn't reach the rental agency either (due to lack of signal), so we were entirely depending on his help. He placed a call and said something about ten minutes.

    Surprisingly, after around ten minutes, a super run down car blasting very loud music pulled up to the driveway. The initial surprise at the timeliness quickly got surpassed by the surprise when three greased up mechanics jumped out of the car and immediately got to work. We had no languages in common but the problem seemed obvious to them and they jumped into action immediately. They first tried to jump start our car, but to no avail - our car wouldn't start, but some lights lit up, which hardened our suspicion that it was a battery issue - again.

    Ultimately, they had to remove our battery and swap it with theirs, which finally did the job. Our car was still a bit shaky on its legs and constantly lost the charge to stay turned on. They said we'd have to stay there at the bottom of the hill pressing the gas for the next twenty minutes until our battery has had a chance to recharge a solid amount. We paid them the equivalent of 15 USD for their quick help and off they went. After some ten minutes or so of mindlessly pressing the gas every five seconds we managed to put the car into gear and whip it up the steep hill, back toward the hospital.

    Once we had reached the hospital, we were too afraid to turn off or even idle the engine, so I remained in the car and continued to mindlessly press the gas pedal while Anne went inside to find out about her results which were more or less due. Long story short, the results were not ready, but they offered to call us with the results. An offer we would've appreciated to receive three hours earlier 🙄 Instead of waiting around any longer we decided to continue onwards to our destination for the next few days - Kibuye, at the Eastern shore of Lake Kivu.
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  • Dzień 40

    Malaria?

    6 marca 2023, Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The previous day ended with me negotiating with the lodge operator over the price for our extension night. We were not really happy with what we got for the price we paid, and several advertised amenities were not delivered, such as towels or warm water. But we were in a pretty desolate area, so didn't have much choice. I ultimately got him to agree to a rate of 40 USD for the extension night, though he was really guilt-tripping me into feeling super bad afterwards for ever approaching him. Oh well, I've got a thick skin, so I didn't let his comments get too close to me.

    Anne had had an annoying headache for a few days now that never really went away, and after we left camp this morning nausea was added to the mix as well. Before we could really think about our next steps, our car got pulled over by a military patrol. They stopped us, told us to get a man they shoved into our car to the closest hospital some 20km away, and sent us off. We just barely managed to check if he is going in for something contagious or not (he wasn't), then we were off. I guess that's another role of the military patrols everywhere 😉 There is a different level of authority between a hitchhiker with a pained expression in his face versus someone in uniform with a big rifle.

    The guy didn't say much during the trip, and after we dropped him off we continued on our own way, Anne did some more research into her symptoms. It turned out that there was a large overlap with malaria, and the incubation period from our Namibia camping adventure (where she got bitten very often) until now aligned with malaria as well. So, change of plans. Instead of aiming to make it to a good spot and spend the day working from there, we rerouted to the next hospital to get her tested for malaria.

    I had made some experiences with rural hospitals previously in Guatemala, and I knew we were in for an interesting experience. Anne got all her documents ready and in we went to get her tested for malaria. While we were waiting for the reception to see us, a big list on the wall caught my eye. It was a pricing list for every single service the hospital offered. The most expensive thing was a knee replacement, priced at 60 USD. At least if I managed to decipher the French correctly. The most macabre thing I spotted was the cremation service, priced at 35 USD per cubic meter. One of the receptionists then took it upon herself to guide us through the entire hospital process, and the first thing we had to do was to pay 10 USD for the VIP service. We weren't really sure what that meant, but it appeared as if we skipped all the queues. It did make us feel a bit bad, but we weren't really given a choice. Pay this, present that document, come here.

    She was then seen by a doctor and had her blood taken - through poking her vein with a needle and then waiting for gravity to do it's thing! No syringe, no vacuum vessels, just letting it drip into a dish. First time I had ever seen it done like that. Then we were told it would take four hours for the results to come in, and our next challenge was how to spend the time until then. We were in a little village at the southern shore of Lake Kivu, and even though the hospital was pretty large (they even had two ambulances), we couldn't find a single restaurant to sit down at to get some work done. We also couldn't find any lodge nearby, but there was an unrated guesthouse not too far away.
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  • Dzień 61

    Nyungwe- nasionale park

    10 listopada 2016, Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    In die suide van Rwanda, teen die Burundi-grens, lê dalk hul mooiste park: Nyungwe. Bergwoud, sjimpansees, endemiese voëls - en stilte. Dís wat Nyungwe jou bied. Ons kamp (onderdak, op netjiese stellasies wat die ergste klammigheid weghou) by Uwinka, maak vuur, maak kos. Saans, behalwe vir die weemoedige geskrou van boomdassies, sak die stilte (en soms die reën) neer. Soggens praat die reuse blouloeries ons wakker. Vrede. Czytaj więcej

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