South Africa Xangana

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  • Day 2

    A Very Early Start

    December 29, 2024 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    It was up at 4:45am this morning to be ready for the 5:30am drive. Out here, the early bird catches the worm, translates into the early cheetah catches the baby wildebeest. Which is exactly what we witnessed after 45 mins or so. I always thought these things were quite quick, but it seems cheetahs actually strangle their prey, which in this instance took around 10 mins. I did feel really sorry for the wildebeest, though 3 hours later I was tucking into bacon and sausages for breakfast, so I suppose you do need to keep a sense of perspective.

    On leaving the room at just after 5am this morning there was a hyena on the path about 5 yards from our door. I think I was more intrigued than concerned, but it was probably just as well he soon made off, as I didn't really know what to do.

    We were back for breakfast by 9am and then spent a relaxing morning and afternoon, only interupted by lunch, until it was time to go out again just before 4pm.

    On this afternoon's drive we saw a couple of lounging lions who after a stroll got quite frisky. Then an elephant with a very young calf, a couple of rhinos and some old buffalos grazing away without a care in the world.

    Then it was back in time for a quick beer round the campsite with the other guests before dinner and an early night. We were the last to head off to bed, at around 9:30pm. One thing they are quite strict on is that after dark everyone has to be escorted back to their rooms just in case of any encounters. Showering in our outdoor shower before bed always has my mind racing about what might be out there in the darkness. Never showered so fast in all my life!
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  • Day 1

    A Very, Very Long Day

    December 28, 2024 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    At 8am we landed in Johannesburg after a 10.5 hour flight with very little sleep and perhaps a couple too many gin and tonics.

    On exiting the plane we were immediately met by a guy who fast tracked us through immigration, collected our luggage, took us to check in for our onward flight to Hoedspruit and dropped us off at the departure gate in plenty of time for our plane.

    The hour's flight brought us in to land at an airstrip in the middle of the bush close to the Kruger national park. The isolation and few amenities reminded me of the film Wild Geese, I was expecting Richard Burton and Richard Harris to pop up at any minute with an entourage of mercenaries.

    Instead we were taken to our safari camp arriving a full 22 hrs after leaving home. After high tea, we set off at 4pm for the first of six game drives over the next 3 days. We managed to see some lions, elephants, giraffes, zebras, eagles, vultures and wild dogs and were back, just after dark, around 7:30pm, . It was an early night after dinner. Although there is no jetlag as it's only a 2hour time difference, I was really tired from the travelling and next to no sleep overnight on the plane.
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  • Day 5

    Ab in den Kruger NP

    October 11, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Während ich das hier tippe, sitze ich mit einem Radler in unserem Camp, über uns die Sterne, die Wildnis direkt vor meinen Füssen. Zweimal kam bereits eine Hyäne am Zaun vorbei, jetzt hört man die Geräusche des afrikanische Buschs. Wer das schon mal erleben durfte, weiss, was das für ein tolles Gefühl ist.

    Heute Morgen umrunden wir den Blyde River Canyon auf nördlicher Seite und kommen auf den letzten Drücker beim Bootsanbieter am Blydepoort Dam an. Da heisst es erst: ausgebucht, aber sie machen schnell etwas klar und setzen uns nicht auf das prall gefüllte Touristenboot, sondern geben uns einen Privatcharter. Mit den Kindern natürlich perfekt. Sie erklimmen auch gleich das zweite Deck und beobachten begeistert jedes Tier, das uns begegnet. Die Hippos sind natürlich das Highlight, aber auch Paviane begeistern und der Krokodilschwanz im Schilf wird am Ende auch ordentlich gefeiert. Luis tritt dabei würdig in meine Fussstapfen und macht fleissig Fotos. Wir Erwachsenen geniessen aber vor allem die wunderschöne Szenerie hier unten im Canyon.

    Die Fahrt bringt uns weiter nach Acornhoek, ein umstrittener Ort, angeblich nicht ganz sicher. Wir beschliessen, unser Bauchgefühl vor Ort entscheiden zu lassen, denn wir müssen noch einkaufen, bevor es für eine Woche in den Kruger geht. Weit und breit sind wir zwar die einzigen Weissen, aber es gibt viel Polizei und Security und alle wirken sehr freundlich. Erst tanken wir und die Jungs quatschen mal wieder fröhlich auf englisch mit dem Tankwart. Danach gehen wir abwechselnd in Liquor Store und Supermarkt, während der andere mit den Kindern im Wohnmobil wartet. Die finden es da drin sowieso viel lustiger. Wir sind in den Geschäften wirklich ein regelrechter Hingucker, alle sind aber extrem freundlich und hilfsbereit. Und langsam, also laaaaaangsam… wenn man 20 Minuten an der Kasse warten muss, ist das wie Meditation.

    Danach geht es endlich los: ab in den Kruger NP und zu unserer einfachen Maroela Campsite mitten im Nichts. Hier sperrt man sich als Mensch in einen Campingplatz-Käfig, um den die Tiere herumspazieren. Der Hyänenbesuch ist natürlich ein Highlight, später sehen wir aber auf unserem ersten Game Drive noch diverse weitere Steppentiere inklusive Elefant und Giraffe, die Kinder sind also selig.

    Das Abendessen fällt kurz aus und gerade bringt Dirk die Kinder ins Bett, während ich die „Ruhe“ draussen geniessen darf. Es raschelt immer wieder neben dem Zaun… Bald geht’s aber auch für uns ins Bett, denn morgen müssen wir früh raus…
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  • Day 21

    Dernier Safari

    July 19, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    La nuit a été assez spéciale! En soirée nous avons vu un << large Spotted genet >> roder près de notre poubelle et entendu le lion rugir 🦁 plusieurs fois! C'était vraiment impressionnant! Nous avons aussi entendu le rire de la hyène et nous avons pu en voir quelques unes de l'autre côté de la clôture face à notre tente! Très cool! Nous avons entendu plein de bruits différents pendant la nuit, qui sait ce qui se passe dans la savane la nuit! En fait ce n'était pas si bruyant mais il faisait tellement froid qu'on ne dormait pas très profondément. C'est à 4:45 le matin que les babouins se sont réveillés et ont décidé d'aller goûter à nos restants d'agneau jetés dans une grosse poubelle de métal que nous même avions de la difficulté à ouvrir... Eux, ils ont réussi!

    Vers 9:00, nous avons quitté le camp pour aller essayer de trouver des lions... Nous n'avons malheureusement pas réussi mais nous avons vu plein de girafes, zèbres, zébus, impalas et éléphants. À un moment, un éléphant s'est montré très agressif envers nous. Il a barri, déployé ses oreilles et a chargé! Il s'est mis à courir vers notre voiture! Ça court assez vite un éléphant! Nous avons dû reculer jusqu'à ce qu'il arrête de courir puis nous étions en sandwich entre des véhicules en avant et en arrière, des éléphants venaient vers nous à droite et l'éléphant pas content nous fixait... C'était stressant et épeurant. Tranquillement, l'éléphant a reculé et nous avons passé le plus loin possible 🐘.

    En revenant au camp nous étions un peu pressés et disons que le coffre de la voiture est resté ouvert quelques secondes de trop... Notre pain 🍞 et notre gros sac de noix de cajou ont disparu 🐒.

    À 16:30, nous avons fait notre dernier safari organisé au coucher du soleil ☀️! Nous avons vu de très près une immense girafe mâle, et un gros hippopotame! Nous avons vu plusieurs oiseaux, des lièvres aux grandes oreilles et un jackal qui rôdait près d'un troupeau d'impala.
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  • Day 20

    Tamboti

    July 18, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Arrivée à Tamboti, nous sommes sous le charme! Nous avons une tente safari à quelques mètres d'une clôture qui nous protège des hyènes et autres animaux de la savane! C'est vraiment cool!! On est vraiment contents de notre tente! Le frigo est carrément dans une cage, les singes, velvet et babouins sont partout! Ils grimpent sur notre tente, se promènent sur notre patio, fouillent dans nos affaires et entrent dans l'auto!il suffit d'une seconde d'inatention pour qu'ils profitent de la situation! Il y a aussi beaucoup de bruits de la faune!! Les gars sont allés voir d'où venait le bruit strident et violent qui a rententi pendant que nous, les filles, étions aux toilettes... Sans succès! Aucune idée quel animal s'est fait dévorer! Wow!! Toute une aventure!Read more

  • Day 8

    Monday afternoon

    May 6, 2024 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Went to our trackers village. Dancers greet our arrival. Went to his school where his son attends. We brought wooden cars made at JO's assisted living place. Bought some local wares. Went to a healers/ medicine man's place. Went to his house, where his mom & aunt showed us how the grind corn and make pop - which is grits basically. Got a beer roadie at the local tavern.Read more

  • Day 20

    En route vers Tamboti

    July 18, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Ce matin, on quitte vers 9:00 pour faire la route vers notre prochain campement, Tamboti. En route nous avons pu observer de belles et gracieuses girafes! Elles ont l'air hautaine et snob avec leurs yeux maquillés aux longs cils noirs! Pour dîner nous nous sommes arrêtés au restaurant pour déguster des genre de sandwich au fromage et au bœuf (goût de curry) avec accompagnement de pap. Olivier et Lara ont mangé des sandwichs européens de Kudu et de bœuf. Pendant que nous dînions, un gros babouin s'est approché d'une table et a volé deux gros sacs de pains tranchés pour ensuite s'empiffrer de pain. Il se dépêchait avant que les autres lui volent son butin!

    Plus tard sur la route nous avons observé plusieurs hippopotames et un gros crocodile qui était bien installé sur une île au milieu d'un lac.

    Nous avons aussi pu nous approcher des éléphants quoique ce soit toujours un peu stressant de s'approcher de ces bêtes immenses. Nous savons qu'ils peuvent être agressifs s'ils se sentent en danger et comme ils sont vraiment beaucoup plus gros que notre voiture, nous restons prudents! Aujourd'hui nous étions en train de les observer quand deux mastodontes se sont mis à marcher dans notre direction. Nous avons reculé pendant un petit bout jusqu'à ce que deux VUS passent devant nous pour ensuite eux-mêmes reculer doucement. Il faut croire que nous ne sommes pas les seuls à rester prudents!
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  • Day 24

    Safari Tag 4 und Abreise

    June 3, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Wir haben gestern einen Busch Walk gemacht und Tierspuren verfolgt. Danach wurde ich von Muffins, einem kleinen Geschenk und einer Karte am Frühstückstisch von allen empfangen ☺️. Mittags ging es dann an den Flughafen wo wir weiter nach Johannesburg geflogen sind. Heute geht es weiter nach Mauritius 🇲🇺.Read more

  • Day 10

    Our first game drive in the Kruger

    January 31 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    The gates to leave Satara opened at 4:30am but as the sun didn’t come up until 5:30am we decided it was pointless leaving before that, so we got up at 4:45am had a couple of coffees and left at 5:30am after the rush.
    We turned right out of the gate and then turned right again and headed down the Orpen to Satara road heading for Orpen rest camp 50km away.
    All was quite for the first 20km and we hardly saw anything. Just the odd lone animal, then as we crested a small hill we saw a pack of wild dogs running down the road towards us. Then out of the bush on our side jumped a baby impala followed by more wild dogs. They were on the hunt. The impala ran diagonally across the road right in front of and into the bush on the other side of the road and the wild dogs pursued.
    It all happed so fast we didn’t even get any pictures so I spun the car around and we followed there line of travel and a minute later we found the wild dogs down at the edge of the river.
    It looked like the baby impala had made it across the river and the wild dogs weren’t prepared to follow which was good from our point of view. We sat there watching the dogs and as we turned to leave they all came up from the bank and started walking down the road right in front of us. Then they all stopped right next to the car. They were so close we could have touched them.
    We moved on leaving the dogs to it and drove all the way to Orpen and on the way we saw 2 lots of Pygmy Mongoose which are really rare to see.
    Once we were at Orpen camp we turned the car around and started to head back and 20km into the return journey I spotted a lone lioness walking through the long grass towards the road. We quickly stopped and as the lioness got to the edge of the road she looked up and down it checking for any moving vehicles. She gave us the eye but we had stopped moving and as she walked across the road 5 cubs followed her. We couldn’t believe our luck. They could only have been 2 weeks old and they all followed in a line squeaking and meewing. It was a great sight and we felt very privaliged.
    We got back to camp at 10:30am and had breakfast and then went over to the reception area to use their wifi to book our next campsite on 2 days and our next excursion. Then we had ice creams as it was already 30°c and only just gone midday.
    Back at camp we decided we couldn’t have a rest in this heat so we went swimming for 90 minutes. The pool was like bath water and between 2pm and 5pm, the hottest part of the day here it was 36°. We are so fortunate to have the wrap around awning.
    As we were eating dinner at 6pm we were joined by a giant monitor lizard scratching around under the tree next to us for food.
    After dinner we even had to go and get some ice to put in the fridge because it couldn’t cope with the heat.
    Just after 7pm we headed over to the fence line and sat on the benches to wait for the hyena to come around. By 8:30pm when they hadn’t arrived we gave up waiting but all the time we were there we could hear a huge make lion roaring in the near distance.
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  • Day 10

    Our final game drive in the Kruger

    January 31 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We were up at 4:45am and after a couple of coffees we left camp just after 5:30am.
    This morning was terrible for sightings and we got all the way to Orpen camp 45km away and hardly saw anything.
    Halfway through the return journey we came across a queue of cars and our initial thoughts were it’s either lion or wild dogs, but we were wrong, it was a leopard up a tree with a kill. Unfortunately it really was a long way away and there was a landrover and safari vehicle hogging the prime spot and they weren’t even taking pictures. The unwritten rule is take your pictures and have your viewing and move on. Not these guys, they were proper camped out and blocking the road and after 15 minutes of waiting we managed to jossle our way into a decent position. We got a couple of shots and moved on.
    By 9am the temperature was already in the 30’s and when we got back to camp at 10am for breakfast it was 34°c in the shade. After breakfast we didn’t really have anything to do so we dozed on our chairs and the sun got hotter and hotter.
    Over at the wash house I had a cold shower and found a brown armoured cricket which was a weird looking creature and then at 2pm I suggested we just go for a drive to have the air con on so that’s what we did and we managed to get through the hottest part of the day in the car. Today it got to 41°c in the shade which was just to hot, and it’s only going to drop to 28°c overnight.
    Back at camp we had dinner and we were joined by Martin the monitor again and some hornbills who decided to use the birdbath we had made.
    At 7:00pm we headed back over to the fence line to watch for hyenas and luckily one walked right by us just the other side of the fence and after 10 minutes he came back.
    We waited another 20 minutes and then decided to call it a night. We were in bed by 8pm.
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