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Hiszpania Río Vena

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  • Hablar espagnol
    Dzień 58–60

    Burgos

    25 kwietnia, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    In Burgos war uns schnell klar, dass wir uns auf wenige Dinge konzentrieren müssen. Diese Stadt mit ihren zahllosen geschichtsträchtigen Bauten ist schlicht überwältigend.

    Einzigartig die Kathedrale, innen wie aussen. Wir haben eines späten Winterabends vor gut 34 Jahren schon mal vor dieser erleuchteten Fassade gestanden, damals mit unseren noch kleinen Kindern. Inzwischen sind diese längst erwachsen - und das Äussere (der Kathedrale) ist komplett renoviert. Die Kirche wie auch viele Bauten der Altstadt wirken hell und frisch, herausgeputzt eben. Burgos hat sich nämlich als Kulturhauptstadt Europas für 2031 beworben.

    Bestimmt auch deshalb wurde das sehr moderne Museum der menschlichen Evolution derart gepusht und in Szene gesetzt. Über die steinzeitlichen Funde aus den Höhlen von Atapuerca hinaus thematisiert das Museum nicht nur die genetische, sondern auch die soziale und emotionale Evolution der Menschheit. Darüber kann man nicht genug nachdenken .... mit offenem Ausgang.

    Mit der "Cartuja de Miraflores" beherbergt Burgos das älteste Kartäuserkloster Spaniens. Das heute noch lebendige Kloster hat eine sehr stimmige und berührende Ausstrahlung. Die den Besuchern zugänglichen Teile sind sehr einladend und sorgfältig gestaltet. Besonders beeindruckt die in Alabaster geschnitzte Grabstätte der Stifter, des ersten Königspaares von Spanien, welche in dessen Chor ruhen.

    Mein leidenschaftliches Interesse für Harmonik fand dann aber in der der Kathedrale angegliederten Ausstellung
    "De la Geometría a la piedra - Tesoros matemáticos de la Catedral de Burgos" seinen Höhepunkt. Sehr anschaulich wird dargestellt, welche Gesetzmäßigkeiten der Mathematik bzw. der praktischen Geometrie beim Bau dieser Kathedrale zur Anwendung kamen.

    Schon Pythagoras hatte sich gefragt, was denn die Schönheit wohlklingender Musik, wohlproportionierter Formen in der Natur und schließlich auch die Schönheit von Bauwerken ausmache. Es seien die harmonischen Akkorde (Proportionen), die alles durchdringen, den letztlich gelte "alles ist Klang".     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikPeregrina Romana
    2
    21
    Dzień 15

    Von Riopico nach Burgos

    16 kwietnia, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Gespannt starte ich in den heutigen Tag! Es ist saukalt, bloss 8 Grad aber ich werde heute nach Burgos kommen. Eine Grössere Stadt und zentraler Punkt auf dem Pilgerweg. V.a. die Kathedrale hats in sich! Czytaj więcej

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  • Camino De Santiago
    1
    1
    Dzień 20–24

    Belorado - Ages - Burgos

    15 kwietnia, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    12th in Belorado
    13th in Ages
    14th and 15th in Burgos

    This is the day that the Lord has made. Let us rejoice and be glad in it.

    These days were remarkable. Into Belorado? I wasn't certain I could continue this journey. Self doubt, fear, and pain in every single inch of my body warned me that I should stop. I went to sleep trying to come up with a way to tell Ken that I was going to quit. Ken...on the other hand, went to bed thinking of alternatives that would treat my health better. In the morning, I told him I was not going to quit, that my commitment to gratitude for God was stronger than my doubts and the pain. Ken answered that he thought of many alternatives that could help me if I needed them. I.e. a taxi to the next town where I could check in and rest until he arrived. But my mind was made up. I was forging ahead.

    The next day, on our way to Ages...it was my turn to lead us ahead. Torrential rain, deep red mud, rocks, a mountain with an 11% grade, freezing cold, dark day. At the base of the hill, Ken was ready to quit. Nope, we've got this...and I trudged up the mountain in my socks and toe- friendly Teva sandals. YUCK. What a mess. But at the end of the mountain??? Glorious sunshine! Ken dancing to. and a herd of horses and cows with no fence, just a dog guarding them. What a joyous end to our hike. AND...our hostel had PIZZA and a laundry room! Ahhhhh. Here are some pictures. Hope you enjoy them. :)     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikSpring 2025 Camino
    231
    Dzień 18

    Castrojeriz

    13 kwietnia, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Last night I was blessed, along with a group of other pilgrims, by the sweetest group of nuns, and given a Miracle Medal to wear. So nice! Then went straight to the bar and chanted with a German guy, a Croatian guy and a woman from Turkey. Why didn’t I think to get a picture?? They were talking about relations between the three countries, and it was really interesting. The Turkish woman and I agreed that her president sucks but not nearly as much as mine does.

    This morning began in rain. It never got hard, or windy, and eventually it cleared off. I launched into the Meseta, and it was as wonderful as I remembered. Put me in a haiku frame of mind:

    Step by step - simple.
    Soft rain a benediction
    On my red poncho

    Again, and again,
    Just keep unwrapping this gift
    is the lesson learned.

    Chatter behind Me -
    up off the bench and go, feet!
    I prefer quiet.

    Bashō I am not, but it kept me entertained.

    Saw what must be a salamander of some sort - tiny little legs I could barely see. Anybody able to ID it?

    Arriving in Castrojeriz I of course note the ruins of a castle high on the hill above. Last time Morgan and Olly egged me on and we climbed up, in wicked heat, and explored. I gave it a friendly wave this time and called it good.     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikCamino de Santiago
    112
    Dzień 18

    Day 17. Ages to Burgos

    1 czerwca 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    Had a restful night in Ages. I put my silicone in my ears and never heard a thing. We took a taxi to our Hotel Corona de Castilla Burgos. Room was not ready so we went to breakfast. Later we found the pharmacy for epsom salt. While Steve soaked his feet, I had a nap. Felt so good to get caught up on some rest. Afternoon was spent visiting the Cathedral de la Santa Maria Burgos. It is said to be 800,000 years old (1221). It had quite a bit of Gothic influence popular in its day. The first Bishop was from Paris and that was the leading style of the time. As it expanded one will find Baroque influences as well. In 1984 it was listed on the UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE LIST.
    We later enjoyed a nice salad with fried chicken and eggs and French fries.
    Steve has done well wearing his sandals and resting. Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings. Grateful for a new city to explore, grateful for the downtime to heal and grateful to talk with my parents today     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikThe Beauty of Moving Slowly
    Dzień 16–17

    Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    2 maja, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After an early breakfast, I was out the door by 7:15am and on the road. The scenery as I left Burgos was much more beautiful than that which I saw on the way in two days ago. I walked alongside the Arlanzón river before leaving the city through the University of Burgos campus. Within 45 minutes I was in the country and making good time.

    Ahead, I could see that rain was in my future but I was hoping that it might blow around the hills ahead. However, before long, it started. I’m trying to see rain and sunshine as “it is what it is” weather events for which I simply dress differently. Today, I was able to do that and, even though the rain was persistent, I still enjoyed the walk. Most people wore ponchos but I carry a small umbrella which I find perfect for rain or the sun. The ponchos were being blown about by the wind and I’m not sure how effective the cheaper ones are.

    The walk itself was pretty easy today, with cereal crops spreading out in every direction. The only challenge I really had was picking a path around and between the puddles and the streams that were developing on the uphill slopes. Because everyone had their heads down today, I didn’t talk to anyone and just enjoyed being out here. About 2kms from Hornillos, the sun came out and it was a nice walk into town. I found my accomm which is querky, but really clean and comfortable.

    While I was checking in, three pilgrims tried to find a bed but were turned away. This afternoon, I went for a walk around the town and people were still arriving but were having to continue on to Hontanas, and beyond. Leah from Germany was one of those. She seemed fairly optimistic when I spoke to her but I don’t like her chances because the next two villages aren’t very big and accomm will be at a premium. One guy I spoke to during my walk-around, had walked from Obaneja on the other side of Burgos and he was having to take a taxi forward to find something.

    I’m loving being here on the meseta, and tomorrow I’m off to Castrojeriz which is a pretty easy walk. (Why did I just say “easy”?) We’ll see, I guess.

    As promised, I have a new video series for you. It’s from Guiroy and I think they show a different side to the country that I’m walking through. If you turn the subtitles on you can get a feel for some of the places. It’s an English translation from Spanish, but you should get the drift. This clip runs from Burgos to Hontanas which is just over 10kms from where I am tonight.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhlCzAJwBA4&amp…

    Buen Camino

    Distance today: 21 kms
    Total distance travelled so far: 306 kms     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikPeregrina Romana
    1
    11
    Dzień 16

    Von Burgos nach Hontanas

    17 kwietnia, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    Heute 35km gelaufen! Das war dann schon sehr viel für die Beine! Unterwegs sehe ich zum ersten Mal Störche und ihre Nester... nun beginnt auch die Meseta, eine Hochebene die vor allem von Getreidefeldern beherrscht wird und sich schier endlos erstreckt. Der Wind ist hier recht stark! Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikSpring 2025 Camino
    Dzień 17

    Rabé de la Calzadas

    12 kwietnia, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    As planned, I slept in, luxuriated in having space to myself, then had a fancy, delish pastry for breakfast (see photo!) and sauntered out of town around 11:30, with a nice short walk planned - an easy 12.5 Km.

    On the outskirts of Burgos I met up with Monica, a Canadian woman, and we ended up chatting away the entire way to my stop! It was a sharp contrast to my normal solo walking days and it certainly made the time fly. I enjoyed it, but also now look forward to quiet tomorrow. I can guarantee I won’t be seeing her again. That maniac is covering 40-50Km A DAY! Just now she’s “slowing” down to 40 for a couple days due to some swelling in her feet. She’s an ultramarathon runner, has done tons of them, in the Sahara, the Alps, the Mohave, all over. And was a smoker until about three years ago. Crazy!

    My feet are happy for the slow day. They were yelling at me a lot last night. I’ve also been very remiss about stretching, which is not good so I worked on that today. A good rest stop!

    Tomorrow I will pass by some beautiful ruins that have a tiny albergue tucked into them. It’s low odds, but if it’s open and there’s a bed I’m stopping there. It would be so cool!

    If you look closely at the first fountain you’ll see that some of the figures are…risqué. There are others here and there, I have read, that are much more salacious. This apparently was common in the Middle Ages, on fountains and friezes outside of churches to emphasize the nature of “ the world” vs God’s kingdom. Hmm.

    The other fountain is just plain funky. Maybe a local artist? It’s right outside my albergue.     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikSpring 2025 Camino
    3
    Dzień 16–17

    Burgos!

    11 kwietnia, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    It was a quiet walk into Burgos today. Not as long as yesterday, but getting all the way into town ends up seeming looong. I’m proud of myself though! There are two routes in, the standard one, which follows the highway and is awful, and the much nicer, but somewhat trickier river route. We took that route last time, but as I recall David and I totally deferred to Morgan and Olly to lead the way. Well, I did it myself this time. Yay me! Also found my way around Burgos - to the hotel, the Cathedral, a pharmacy, and a vegetarian restaurant I remembered being really good last time. It still is!

    The picture looking out from a ridge shows Burgos in the distance when I was still about 20 Km away, and also gives a sense of the plain I am launching into tomorrow. The Meseta!

    The carved marble figures are a King and Queen (if I’m remembering correctly) interred there. I liked the detail of the little dog curled at the Queen’s feet. There are a LOT of bodies tucked away in that cathedral.

    If you look closely at the duck photo you’ll see ducklings!

    And the video is for you to listen to. If only I could identify that bird by its call!😂     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikPortugal Febr./ März 2025
    212
    Dzień 32–33

    Burgos/ Kastilien-Leon

    6 marca, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Unser letzter Stopp in Spanien auf dieser Reise - Burgos. Unsere "Planung " hat es so ergeben, damit die morgige Fahrstrecke nicht zu lang wird.
    Der erste Eindruck: viel und dichter Verkehr. Doch in der Altstadt gibt es viele Fußgängerzonen ohne Autoverkehr--> sehr angenehm. Die Kathedrale haben wir uns heut nicht von innen angesehen, das machen wir im nächsten Jahr. Es war eine schöne Stadtbesichtigung ohne Pause. Czytaj więcej

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