Spain Hornillos del Camino

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  • Day 25–26

    Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    It’s hard to believe I was back on the Camino today!!! Not without some challenges though.
    I decided to start early and left the hostel at 6:30. But given the fact that I am sense-of-direction challenged, I spent the first half hour lost in Burgos trying to find the way. So much for an early start. Then, after almost a week of blue skies and sunshine, it was raining this morning! Hard at times! It definitely tested my gear, which almost failed me after 6 hours on the trail.
    But not all were challenges. Just outside Rabe the la Calzada, on the way to Hornillos del Camino, there is a tiny hermitage, Hermita de la Virgen del Monasterio.
    The doors were open so I decided to go in. I was greeted by two nuns at the door. It only took one second for me to step inside to break down crying uncontrollably. They asked for my name and gave me a hug.
    I noticed that other pilgrims were crying too. There was something about them and the place that I cannot explain.
    I stayed for a while. Before every pilgrim leaves, they give them a special blessing and a little image of the virgin to protect them on the Camino.
    The open the hermitage every day so that pilgrims can find strength and respite.
    They asked me if I wanted to say something for their Facebook page, and I agreed. I am not so sure they will post it because I was crying so hard, it was difficult to decipher which language I was using.
    I finally arrived at Hornillos de la Calzada with a whole afternoon to relax and recover.
    I have another 20 km planned for tomorrow.

    Hornillos de la Calzada: Stayed at Albergue Casa del Abuelo.
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  • Day 18

    Castrojeriz

    April 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Last night I was blessed, along with a group of other pilgrims, by the sweetest group of nuns, and given a Miracle Medal to wear. So nice! Then went straight to the bar and chanted with a German guy, a Croatian guy and a woman from Turkey. Why didn’t I think to get a picture?? They were talking about relations between the three countries, and it was really interesting. The Turkish woman and I agreed that her president sucks but not nearly as much as mine does.

    This morning began in rain. It never got hard, or windy, and eventually it cleared off. I launched into the Meseta, and it was as wonderful as I remembered. Put me in a haiku frame of mind:

    Step by step - simple.
    Soft rain a benediction
    On my red poncho

    Again, and again,
    Just keep unwrapping this gift
    is the lesson learned.

    Chatter behind Me -
    up off the bench and go, feet!
    I prefer quiet.

    Bashō I am not, but it kept me entertained.

    Saw what must be a salamander of some sort - tiny little legs I could barely see. Anybody able to ID it?

    Arriving in Castrojeriz I of course note the ruins of a castle high on the hill above. Last time Morgan and Olly egged me on and we climbed up, in wicked heat, and explored. I gave it a friendly wave this time and called it good.
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  • Day 16–17

    Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After an early breakfast, I was out the door by 7:15am and on the road. The scenery as I left Burgos was much more beautiful than that which I saw on the way in two days ago. I walked alongside the Arlanzón river before leaving the city through the University of Burgos campus. Within 45 minutes I was in the country and making good time.

    Ahead, I could see that rain was in my future but I was hoping that it might blow around the hills ahead. However, before long, it started. I’m trying to see rain and sunshine as “it is what it is” weather events for which I simply dress differently. Today, I was able to do that and, even though the rain was persistent, I still enjoyed the walk. Most people wore ponchos but I carry a small umbrella which I find perfect for rain or the sun. The ponchos were being blown about by the wind and I’m not sure how effective the cheaper ones are.

    The walk itself was pretty easy today, with cereal crops spreading out in every direction. The only challenge I really had was picking a path around and between the puddles and the streams that were developing on the uphill slopes. Because everyone had their heads down today, I didn’t talk to anyone and just enjoyed being out here. About 2kms from Hornillos, the sun came out and it was a nice walk into town. I found my accomm which is querky, but really clean and comfortable.

    While I was checking in, three pilgrims tried to find a bed but were turned away. This afternoon, I went for a walk around the town and people were still arriving but were having to continue on to Hontanas, and beyond. Leah from Germany was one of those. She seemed fairly optimistic when I spoke to her but I don’t like her chances because the next two villages aren’t very big and accomm will be at a premium. One guy I spoke to during my walk-around, had walked from Obaneja on the other side of Burgos and he was having to take a taxi forward to find something.

    I’m loving being here on the meseta, and tomorrow I’m off to Castrojeriz which is a pretty easy walk. (Why did I just say “easy”?) We’ll see, I guess.

    As promised, I have a new video series for you. It’s from Guiroy and I think they show a different side to the country that I’m walking through. If you turn the subtitles on you can get a feel for some of the places. It’s an English translation from Spanish, but you should get the drift. This clip runs from Burgos to Hontanas which is just over 10kms from where I am tonight.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhlCzAJwBA4&amp…

    Buen Camino

    Distance today: 21 kms
    Total distance travelled so far: 306 kms
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  • Day 23–24

    Burgos to Hornillos

    September 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    20km or so today. Easy walking. The start of the Maseta. Big open spaces. I love the Maseta. Feels so expansive. Ed’s first day walking again and he went really well. We had paella pilgrim dinner but Ed wanted to cook for himself so he went to the tiny shop & got chorizo and tomato and pasta & we had garlic in our bag. His dinner turned out great, I would have eaten with him but I’d already paid. We had no booking and the municipale was full but we managed to get beds. ☺️ we are getting more used to how it all works.Read more

  • Day 18

    Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    September 18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today we walked 21 km from Burgos and we left late as the city was so incredible. It was a flat walk through sunflower fields, quaint towns and a magical shade forest for wine and cheese. Tonight we stayed at Casa de la Abuelo and the boys looked like snow white dwarfs snuggled in their beds hah! I never want this walk to end.Read more

  • Day 20

    Day 17- Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    August 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Good day of walking. Our legs felt better, the aches and pains were minimal, and it was only 12 miles today. We sent our bags by courier to the albergue just to make sure we tried out our new "feet" tools without the extra weight. It seemed to work out well. Tomorrow will be another short day, so we'll carry our packs to see how things go.

    The landscape is changing again, flatter with some rolling hills of farmland. Looked like some fields of alfalfa, which we hadn't seen before. Had a special moment when we stepped into a small church. An older woman who was there invited us in, gave us each a pilgrims blessing, a Mary, mother of god pendent and a hug, then sent us on our way.

    Upon arriving at the albergue, we finished our chores and then soaked our feet in the cold pool. We had a siesta, made a few calls, and then had another pilgrim meal, but this time, there were about 18 people from several different countries. Our first homemade paella of the trip, it was delicious. Hopefully, the rain will end tonight, so tomorrow will be a dry walk day

    Adios.
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  • Day 17

    Dipping my toe into the Meseta

    July 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    I’ve heard people say that the Camino Frances takes you on a three part journey: the physical journey, the spiritual journey, and the mental/emotional journey. The Meseta is the spiritual part.

    I can see why the first part is physical. After about two weeks my body has been through a lot. I’m constantly attending to foot issues (too detailed to go into here). Sore joints and muscles. Parts of my body rubbed a bit raw from overuse. I feel I know how to attend to the physical now. However it takes consistent attention. I have a daily walking routine that works and is flexible. When to eat, when to sunscreen, when to 🚽. 😊

    God was good to me today as I entered the Meseta. The day was a breezy high of 77 and I was done before the hottest part of the day. The first half of the day had me emerging out of Burgos and past two villages. So only half a walking day today was in the Meseta. I’ll try to post a few pics each day to show the texture, contours, and likely monotony of it all.

    The village I stopped in today has a population of 60 people! I’m not sure I’ve ever stayed in a place so small. In fact, I’m not (Ha!). It’s so small the company set me up in a “hotel” in the next town over. The owner was as rude as could be imagined. I guess when there’s not a lot of competition you can treat people however you like. I’ll choose to see his behavior as giving me an opportunity for “virtuous action”, as a colleague of mine jokingly states (there are a lot of opportunities for virtuous action in the church 😆).

    I’m hoping to get out of here pretty early tomorrow (depending on the will of the owner when he chooses to drive me back to the Camino) to move on to the next town where I may not need to will myself to exercise such virtuous action as much! But first I’ll watch Spain play in the Semi-Finals of Euro Cup Soccer tonight.
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  • Day 22–23

    Day 17 - Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    June 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Stage 1 - The Physical - is officially over today! 🙌 - the body is now 'prepped & conditioned' - apparently?! 🤔

    And so Stage 2 begins - The Mental! 😬 ...Today we start the 'Meseta' (plateau) - considered to be the 'mind phase' - known for its solitude and little distraction. An opportunity to go deeper with your thoughts and to reflect inward in quiet contemplation - eeekkkk - brace yourselves! This is going to get messy! 🤣

    It was a little hard to get started this morning, but off we trotted for our 20km day! Again, we detoured via the river as we left Burgos. We made the mistake of following another group and later realised it was the wrong way! So we lost about 1km cutting through the burbs to get back on track! 😂

    We came across this cute little Monastery - just before the Meseta outside of Rabe de Las Calzadas - and popped inside only to be greeted by the cutest little nun who blessed us and put a little necklace with a Santa Maria pendant around our neck! 🙏

    Tomorrow we're planning to stay at a monastery that doesn't take bookings and has no electricity 😳... so it should be interesting!

    It would have been the perfect place to see the Milky Way at night, BUT we're expecting more than 20mm of rain tomorrow! 😟
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  • Day 16

    First day on the meseta

    June 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Which for those of you who don't know, is the enormous plateau that covers most of central Spain, from La Mancha south of Madrid to the mountains just north of us here. In my experience it is either baking hot like today or very cold in Winter.
    As there has been so much rain the poppies, thistles and other wild flowers are stunning.
    We are staying in a hostel Fiona knows from last year in a sleepy village that has the good fortune to sit on the path to Santiago, and is making the most of it by catering to pilgrims. There's a man in a small shop across the road selling tiny shampoos, suncreams, blister stuff, and food in small packets as well as making nice sandwiches.
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  • Day 23

    Burgos Cathedral

    May 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    As I shuffled into the city of Burgos like Tim Conway on the Carol Burnett show.

    See video of Tim Conway….
    https://youtu.be/9oORj6nHc4E?si=FbAK9C2HCLHTOyzK

    As I approached my hotel I knew I was about to walk past the Cathedral. I knew I had only so much energy and so I opted to take pictures from the outside and vow to return someday to see the inside.

    I looked at my pictures and they don’t do the Building justice. Regardless take my word for it. It is massive and impressive ! I enjoyed gazing at it in the day and night time.

    A picture of me shuffling through Burgos on the way to my hotel being guided by yellow arrows. Also some Torrenzos before dinner.
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