Spain Tríacastela

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  • Day 30

    From Triacastela to Sarria

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Heute ein weiterer Tag durch das grüne Galizien entlang alter Wege und durch Wälder voller knorriger Eichen mit wundersamen Alchimisten und Künstlern! Wurde von Pferd in den Arm gebissen (ist das jetzt ein Pferdekuss?), ansonsten alles gut, tolle Herberge.Read more

  • Day 35

    Over O Cebriero

    October 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Day 34/40 Yesterday we rested in a valley by the river at Las Herrerios. Today we walked up 8km to the high point of the mountain range leading us into Galicia. And then another 12 to our accommodation. Most of the day was misty and drizzling and at times our fingers were freezing. Maximum 8 degrees minimum 4 degrees today. Thoroughly enjoyed the crisp weather and the warmth of the cosy bars with open fires on the way up. Beautiful bowl of soup hit the spot at the top in the town of O Cebriero. Bagpipes playing welcomes us into the town which brought a tear to the eye. 🥲Read more

  • Day 12

    Sarria-Portomarin 13 1/2 miles

    October 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    I have more complaining to do. My feet fricking hurt. They hurt so bad. This was my only fear before I left. I knew I could handle the Camino physically but I worried about my feet hurting. And they do. They are in agony.

    Okay. That’s it for the complaining.

    We passed a major milestone today. We have less than 100 km to go. When Laura started, she had 767 km to go, so this was a BFD. It was really an honor to be with her when she got to that 100 km marker.

    From here on out, we are required to have two stamps per day in our Credencial del Peregrino to prove we walked the final 100 km (spoiler alert: I’m not going to walk every last km and if the Pope doesn’t like it, well…). Pilgrims get stamps at hotels, albergues, cathedrals, restaurants, even taxi cabs. Laura’s credencial is practically full but I still have plenty of empty boxes, of course. When we get to Santiago, we’ll have to show it to…someone somewhere…in order to receive our compostela but the credencial itself ends up being a really cool souvenir.
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  • Day 11

    Fonfria-Pintin 13 miles

    October 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Today was my first psychologically difficult day. I’ve reached the point where my feet are wholly unhappy plus I’m missing my babies and the comforts of home. So I’m feeling a little weepy.

    There were two routes we could take today. One was flatter but 7 km (4+ miles) longer. We opted for shorter. Laura went on ahead while I took a longer break because I really wanted to try to go the full 17 miles today. Then I accidentally took the longer route. Fortunately I figured it out before too long but I didn’t need that extra 1/2 mile on a day like today.

    On our shorter but not-flat route, the ups felt endless and the downs became agonizing. I slowed to practically a crawl out of concern about falling and because walking on the balls of my feet causes me a lot of pain. So I do this slow shuffle where I land on my heels and crouch a little so that my knees don’t take the brunt of it. So my quads were screaming at me too. Every body part would like a word with me, apparently.

    At one point, there were two paths ahead, one that went up and one that went steeply down. I knew that if the descent was the Camino path I’d burst into tears. Thankfully it wasn’t.

    I finally made it to Pintin, a town that had an open restaurant, and I went in, got myself an Orange Aquarius, and asked them to call me a cab to Sarría, where we are staying tonight.

    I texted with my friend Donna from Charlottesville, whom I haven’t seen since last Thursday, because I knew she was in Sarría tonight too. Turns out she’s staying across town. We laughed about the fact that it’s easier to drive three hours to Charlottesville than it is to walk 20 minutes after a day like today. We won’t see each other again most likely—at least not in Spain. But I’m grateful that she was one of the wonderful friends I made on the Camino.
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  • Day 43–45

    Filoval to Sarria

    October 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Hola, we have at last arrived in Sarria which feels like the beginning of the end. Just one week to go now. This is the place where many pilgrims start and do the 100km to Santiago & get the Compostella certificate. I have mixed feelings as we near the end. We are having a rest day today in our first private room with our own bathroom & actual towels. It feels incredible luxury. The sun is shining in the window, we will do washing & have clean dry clothes. The previous night was worst albergue of the trip. I came in drenched & cold and stayed that way. My trousers were still not quite dry in the morning. The night before that I thought I was in heaven perched on top of a mountain with friends & warm fire and incredible beauty. There were also cows and farming. I find that I’m soothed by the fertile lush land where the villages seem to be prosperous. The weather changes quickly. I couldn’t see out the window this morning so much cloud and now it’s beautiful sunny. Goes from rain to sun too. The days have been so full. Walking is slower in the rain and getting dry and clean takes time and energy. That is part of the beauty of it, walk, find a place to sleep, wash, eat. Repeat.Read more

  • Day 2

    Sto odiando

    September 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Bene, le gambe sono più fresche, la mente è pronta a ripartire, quindi ok. Altri 5 chilometri con l’inizio della terribile salita, che il giorno dopo mi porterà ai 1300 metri e al confine con la galizia.
    5 chilometri, dai, ne ho già fatti 18, che sarà mai?
    Bene, inizio gasata, sono oltre a quanto mi ero ripromessa di fare come primo giorno. Certo, confronto a tutti gli altri che ne fanno una trentina di media, faccio schifo. Mai intanto “gli altri” hanno 20 anni oppure sono pensionati senza zaino. Quindi, fuck them, con il loro “ah ma come mai parti fa qui? Noi siamo in viaggio da settimane, lo facciamo tutto il cammino”.
    No ok, nessuno me l’ha messa davvero giù così pesante, ma la spocchia era quella, giuro. Giusto forse un filo di mio “super io” giudicante, ma a quello sono abituata. Taccio quindi il mio antagonista interiore e proseguo sempre più decisa tra i campi pieni di mucche e di zucche rigonfie. Riesco anche a superare qualche pellegrino più lento e mi galvanizzo un attimo
    E poi, eccola. La salita.
    Ed è una salita stronza eh: parte de botto, senza preavviso, senza dolcezza. Boom.
    E sono gli ultimi due chilometri che faccio in quasi un’ora. Piano, con il fiatone, le gambe rigide e tremolanti e le pause sempre più frequenti. Il cemento ha lasciato posto ad un sentiero roccioso e scivoloso, che non aiuta.
    Bene, lo stavo aspettando questo momento. Il momento in cui odio. Semplicemente odio tutto.
    In un tempo infinito raggiungo La Faba, fortunatamente l’ostello della parrocchia è vicinissimo allo svincolo e impossessata da una vitalità improvvisa, mi precipito a chiedere se hanno posto per la notte.
    Il volontario tedesco ride, non sono mai pieni e felicione mi porge i lenzuoli di carta ed il mio letto nel dormitorio.
    Dopo una bella doccia, capisco dal brontolio della mia pancia che è tempo di pranzare/cenare e alle 16.30 mi delizio nel bar del paese. Un pochino di pace solitaria, qualche mail, una mezz’ora di chiacchiere libere con altri italiani e alle 21 son già nel buio del dormitorio con i miei colleghi pellegrini.
    Non male come primo giorno
    Devo solo non pensare che domani da pioggia ☔️
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  • Day 27

    Sarria

    September 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    I don’t know what got into me, but I think I have wings! I flew today! My legs feel strong, body too, and I was passing by people like nothing. I should be strong by now. There is only 100km to go. Now or never. Sarria is where tons of people enter the trail with suitcases being transported from town to town. If you walk at least the last 100km you get a Compostela in Santiago certifying your journey. Doesn’t matter if you haven’t walked the whole way, you still get one as long as you collect 2 stamps per day for the next 5 or 6 days (or as long as you want to take to complete the last 100km). It’s fine with me. I used to get a little pissy about the ‘tourogrinos’ who join it at the end with their pretty shoes, makeup, perfume, etc and then waltz into Santiago, taking a seat at the limited seating at the pilgrims mass just to see the huge botafumerio swing. Not anymore. To each their own. Maybe they have health issues preventing them from completing the whole 500 miles, maybe they can only take a week off from work, maybe they don’t have the money, maybe they are caring for someone at home and don’t have the time…and just maybe they do the last 100km for a taste of this sweet, amazing, journey and decide to return for the whole thing another year. It’s not my business, I will greet them as if they have been walking from France or Portugal like many have. It’s a beautiful thing and I know the last days will go so fast as they usually do so I won’t wast my time concerning myself with that. I’m grateful I have had this opportunity.
    About today. I saw so many beautiful landscapes, cows and goats pasturing, moss growing on everything, a beautiful labyrinth, mountain trails that tried to break me, downs that tested my knees, and going several kilometers without a coffee stop (poor Tammy!!). I lost Holly for awhile too. Ugh. I got ahead of her but thought hey we’ve been doing this for hundreds of miles and she knows how to follow yellow arrows and the several who are walking this trail, she even has the app this year. I had faith in her. Well apparently she followed a silver arrow downhill to someone’s farm! Another pilgrim whistled 3 times before she realized no one around here whistles for their dog THREE times (they turnaround after one!) so she turned back to see another pilgrim trying to tell her she was going the wrong way! We had talked about our break spot earlier, so I stopped at the first one I saw to use the restroom and get a coffee. I sat there for about 15 minutes thinking no way was I that far ahead of her. When I turned off to the cafe I looked back saw a pink shirt like hers and hair like hers so I was certain she saw me turn off into the cafe. When I came out of the bathroom there was a woman in a pink shirt, hair like Hollys, but not the same pants. Shit it wasn’t her. So I downed my coffee and got back on the trail. A few Km ahead there was another cafe and there she was with her cute orange backpack yelling “hey you, I’m here!!!!” She had asked most people in the cafe if they’d seen me and one person had at the last stop. Sylvia, Brian, Susie, Brad, Bianca…she had them all involved. That’s Holly, my little networker 😂. She finished her tea and we were off to finish the last 5 Km TOGETHER! We arrived in Sarria by 1pm, showered, went and did our laundry, and then off to have some great Italian food at a restaurant that had amazing reviews. I had the lasagna and it was the best I’ve had, ever. Brad and Susie showed up and we had a great visit, learned more about their lives in Australia and came back ‘home’ to pack up for tomorrow into Portomarin. We have about 23km to walk and a 50% chance of rain. Let’s hope it either does it tonight or after we arrive at our destination tomorrow!? Time for sleep, more tomorrow! ❤️😘
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  • Day 62

    Up and Down a Mountain

    September 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    I began the misty, rainy day passing many vineyards. I began thinking of all the vineyard parables/stories I know. I bet you could come up with a bunch. I noticed how some vineyards looked neat, while others were weedy, yet they both produced grapes. I watched families work together, snipping the bunches of grapes off the vines and filling up buckets. One farmer handed me a few and they were the sweetest grapes I have ever eaten.

    If you must walk up a mountain in the rain, it's much more fun to ride a horse up it! I called Victor at Al Paso Stables and he was, of course, booked until Saturday. I knew it was last minuto so went to sleep. Víctor woke me up 2 hours later to say someone cancelled and can I be there at 9AM. Of course I can! It took 4 phone calls to find a taxi that "might" get me there...don't worry, Victor will wait. I did get there on time and had a blast getting to O Cebriero. By the time I got to the top, the drizzle was a downpour and the trail had become a stream so I took the bus down the other side and spent 2 days drying off in Sarria.

    Coming into Sarria I walked passed an old monastary that was closed with trees along the trail and I thought I heard bag pipes. I was quite surprised when I got to the top of the hill and there he was making music.
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  • Day 4–5

    Sarria to Portomarin

    September 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    We started out this morning around 8:30am. Sunrise was at 8:22am. Left Sarria and we were able to get on the trail fairly quickly along with many other pilgrims. Weather was mostly sunny with some periods of rain. Some challenging areas but all in all - not bad. We got a total of 36,000 steps and walked 15+ miles. Lots of reflective time to quiet all the noise and be present. We stopped off a few times for quick bathroom breaks and to rest our feet. Finished the day with a pilgrims meal in town and a hot shower! Tomorrow is a new day and I am looking forward to seeing what it brings!Read more

  • Day 3

    Exploring Sarria

    September 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Today we explored the town of Sarria, enjoyed the views, sampled local food and saw many other pilgrims. Our greeting to each other is “Buen Camino.” (Good road or good path). The locals also greet the pilgrims that way.
    After acquiring a good amount of Spanish language through the years I felt ready to converse in some limited fashion to the locals. Unfortunately, Galician is the dialect spoken here and it has more similarities to Portuguese. I guess I will revert back to using Google translate!
    I tried a couple of Galician foods- pimento de Padron- and Spanish torta. Both were delicious. I feel we are rested and ready for the start of our walk tomorrow- to get warmed up we did 12,000 steps today! Excited for the morning! FYI the picture of the yellow arrow and the scallop on the road are directional signs leading us to Santiago.
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