United States Kitchen Creek

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  • Day 58

    Der erste Tag auf dem Trail

    March 23, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Tag 1 auf dem PCT

    23.3.2024
    6:00 Uhr aufstehen im kalten Nebel. 1,8° C war es nachts. Dann aber Frühstück mit Wärmestrahler. Viele Leute sind schon auf. Es gibt Pancaces mit Ahornsirup und noch viele andere leckere Sachen. Nach dem Frühstück kommen die Volontairs und kontrollieren die Permits. Alles geht gut, keine Probleme. Ich erhalte eine Belehrung, einen Pct-Anhänger und eine schwarze Tüte für das Toilettenpapier. Nach der Toilette packe ich alles ein. Vieles ist noch feucht vom Nebel aber es geht so. Circa 8:30 Uhr bin ich Abmarsch fertig.
    Mein erstes Ziel ist der Southern Terminus. Nach einem kleinen Umweg finde ich den richtigen Weg bergauf Richtung mexikanische Grenze. Dort angekommen begrüßen mich wieder die 2 Volontäre. Einer macht dann ein Paar Fotos von mir und dem Terminal und demonstriert mir mit einem Händeklatschen ein merkwürdiges Echo. Anscheinend wirft die imposante Mauer dieses Geräusch zurück. Es erinnert mich ein bisschen an ein Schussgeräusch.
    Auf dem Weg wieder in Richtung CLEEF treffen ich Joe aus Oregon wieder. Ein junger Mann mit langen Haaren.
    Wir beschließen ein Stück gemeinsam zu laufen. Der Weg schlängelt sich bergauf und bergab durch eine felsige Landschaft. Wir kommen an einigen Bachläufen vorbei und kreuzen eine Bahnlinie. Wie sich herausstellt, wird die Strecke auch noch befahren. Wir können eine Art Draisine und einen historischen Zug beobachten. Das Wetter ist angenehm sonnig und warm. Auf einer Anhöhe erklärt mir Joe die Wolkenformationen am Himmel. Er sagt, dass es bald Regen und Sturm geben werde. Und so kam es dann auch. Pünktlich 13 Uhr setze schauerartiger leichter Nieselregen ein. Dieser ging dann in Dauerregen mit Windböen über. Wir zogen uns unsere Regenjacken an und berieten uns wo wir zelten können. Wir beschlossen, es bis Lake Morena zum RV-Park zu versuchen. Denn dort wäre eine Gaststätte usw. Wo man sich aufwärmen kann. Aber bis dahin waren es noch 15 Meilen und nicht mehr viel Zeit. Wir schaffen es trotz strömenden Regens ca 18.30 dort anzukommen. Wir gehen gleich in den Grochery-Store mit angeschlossenem Fast Food und essen etwas. Leider ist es nicht besonders warm darin und es zieht. Als wir zurück kamen war es mittlerweile schon dunkel geworden und wir bauen unser Zelt mit Stirnlampe auf.

    mi 0 bis mi 20
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  • Day 8

    PCT 2023 - Day 6: SNAKE! 🐍

    April 22, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    The one with the amazing sunrise, two snakes and a fantastic campsite.

    📍 Location: mile marker 47.8 to MM 63.6 wild camping on both occasions.

    🥾 PCT Mile Marker: 63.6 elevation 5850ft max, camping at 3874ft.
    🥾 I actually walked: 16.2 miles
    💰 Money: No money spent
    ⛑️ Health: I have developed a small blister on top of a callus on my left foot. The rocks and heat combination it’s inevitable.

    ☀️ Weather: Another scorcher of a day and the nights are now getting warmer as well. Last night I had to open both vestibules to get some air into my tent.

    🍲 Food: Giant cookie for breakfast with coffee, tortilla and tuna for lunch. Vegetable hot pot (dehydrated meal) for dinner. I tried goldfish chips today. I’m eating snacks all day as well.

    💤 Sleep: Probably the worse night on this trip so far. It was hit and sticky. I kept tossing and turning. It didn’t help that some kids were having a party about a mile away and we could hear them laughing and shouting and honking their horns until gone 1pm.

    About 2am I heard something outside. Something big! It sounded like it was right next to Di’s tent and was rummaging through her food bag! I shouted “what’s that?” Imagining a mountain lion or coyote, but Di replied saying “it’s only me, I forgot to bring my food bag into my tent”. Phew!

    🐍 Snake count: Two! Omg! See long winded version below!

    👨 People update: I’m walking with Di, but also a new crowd as our tramily have hot footed it ahead of us. We have Logan aka “handyman” as he fixed the water spigot, Jesse. Is now known as “Round Two” and every time he stands up from a break he shouts “round two”. We have a lady called “sorry” who got that name on another long trail. (I can’t remember why?). And Rose who hasn’t got a trail name yet. People are calling me Jukebox rather than Julia which is taking a while to get used too!

    LEARNINGS:-
    Snakes are bloody scary but also very beautiful creatures.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    6.06 am - I emerge from my tent and take a look to my left. Over the mountains the sun is walking up and it’s stunning. Wow!

    7.16am - I camped with Di last night so we had breakfast and packed up then headed out. I feel good this morning even though I had a terrible sleep.

    7.41 - We are both nearly out of water so we were relived to see the creek. We got chatting to an older man called Woodchuck who is retired and now just travels. He’s a character and we leapfrog him all day. We meet some trail runners and the lead guy heard my accent and said “I think what yuh guys are doing is awesome, can I give you a hug?”. So there, in the high desert, I hugged a smelly trail runner with trendy blue glasses. Lol 😂

    8.32am - We are a good few miles in and the walking is east. I plug in my audiobook and listen to David Goggins nee book which is all about resilience. I only have one AirPod in as I’m still paranoid about snakes!

    Someone on this trail has a footprint in the shape of an aliens head. I wonder who that is?

    8.49am - Once we reach three miles we start the mile drink, stretch and snack routine. This continues all the way to 16 miles, but it keeps us hydrated and is a good little system.

    10am - We come across a picnic area and decide to take a bit of a break. Two people are practicing pitching a Lanshan 2 tent as they are heading out on a backpacking trip soon. Its nice chatting to the locals. We are lucky as there is a toilet here (long drop toilet). Logan managed to fix the water spigot so he was blessed with the trail name “Handyman”. Others turn up and it’s a good opportunity to update my photo book. I’ve been carrying a little Polaroid zip printer and a ThruNote book. Each hiker poses for a photo and then I print their picture and put it in the book. Today I add Woodchuck, Rose, Sorry, Handyman to the collection.

    Replenished, we are off again!

    This trail is spotless. Unlike the Camino where you find loo roll in places, the PCT is exceptionally clean.

    💀 11.05am - After a tough climb and clambering over rocks we come across a large memorial wall (see photos). It’s very beautiful with exception to the massive skull on the top.

    11.45am - Di is in front of me and she walked right over a baby rattler and didn’t see it! I screamed! I was about 2ft long and sunning itself on the trail. I was paralysed but knew I had to get around it. Do encourage me and after the count of three I jumped over it and then ran!

    12.30 We are now walking through a very weird scene. It’s a massive boulder field that goes on for about a mile. These random white and grey boulders look like giant eggs. We feel like we are in the movie “honey I shrunk the kids” I’m loving this!

    1.30pm - I’m getting low on water and my feet ache. My callus on my left foot is sore so in need to sort it out. We come across a lovely little creek where Woodchuck and Handyman are already perched with their feet dangling in the cold water. It looks so good! We set up for lunch and I’m enjoying having a fun wash in the stream. I’m getting accustomed to the filth now and wet wipes are my best friend but there is nothing better than a fresh wash in a river. My little chair makes an appearance and my umbrella keeps the sun off my face as I chill, eating tortillas with my feet soaking in the icy cold water. Life is good!

    4.20 pm - I’m tired now and we have continued the breaks every mile. I’m now leading the pack as we start a rather gentle decline down a mountain. That’s when I hear the most terrifying sound! To my right, just tucked into the brush is a massive black rattler all coiled up and looking rather angry. I instinctively jump backwards (like Scooby Doo jumping into Shaggys arms!) and hide behind Di and Rose who is walking with us. Di (from Oz so sees snakes a lot) takes charge. “Let’s give it some space” she says. So we wait a few mins and it starts to move off further into the bushes still rattling it’s tail. My heart is going so fast that I think it’s gonna pop out of my chest! That was frigging scary!

    Di is now leading and we have a few miles left to go until camp. I think the adrenaline helped me skip all the way into tentsite!

    We have a lovely campsite and there are about 10 of us here. Honza had a beer chilling in the steam so his new trail name is “one beer” as he had carried it all the way from Lake Morena!

    7.30pm - Also known as hikers midnight. I’m ready for bed. Night night.

    Tomorrow is town day!
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  • Day 7

    PCT 2023 - Day 5 - Just wow!

    April 21, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The one with the wow moment!

    📍 Location: Mount Laguna to mile marker 47.8 tent site.

    🥾 PCT Mile Marker: 47.8 / elevation 5450ft
    🥾 I actually walked: 9 miles
    💰 Money: Breakfast $16 coffee $2.60. Bounce Box $22.80
    ⛑️ Health: I feel great today. The night in a hotel really helped rest my body and my mind. (Thanks Rebecca)

    ☀️ Weather: Perfect! It did get hot and the umbrella came out, but it was manageable.

    🍲 Food: Breakfast was two huge pancakes with berries and a side of sausage (they call it a sausage link). I then snacked all day on nuts, snickers, nature valley bars etc. When we got to camp I was low on water so had dry food of tortillas and lemon chicken.

    💤 Sleep: Slept like a baby last night in a real bed!

    🐍 Snake count: Zero! After seeing photos of snakes that others have seen at breakfast, it’s just a matter of time.

    👨 People update: I saw Hans at breakfast this morning. He has also been very poorly and has been throwing up. I reckon everyone is suffering from some kind of heat stroke.

    LEARNINGS:-
    Being in nature has a way of lifting your spirits. Todays wow moment was really difficult to put into words.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    💤 5am - Had a great nights sleep and woke up feeling creative. I edited three YouTube videos and the series is scheduled to start from next Monday. I wrote up yesterdays blog and I’m enjoying the process of documenting my hike and I’m loving the encouragement and comments form people that are following along. Thank you 🙏

    🍳 9am - I’m all packed and sorted but the post office doesn’t open until 12 noon so I decide to enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the Pine Lodge Cafe. I’m sitting with Hans & Jack and a few others. It’s good to feel part of something special and talking “trail talk”. My breakfast is delicious. Pancakes, berries and a sausage with a good cup of tea.

    👍 Jesse turns up and he has fixed the hole in his airmat. I’ll be walking with him later today as we plan a short 5.4 miles to the campsite. I’ve not heard from DinkyDi and hope she is ok.

    🏥 At breakfast I got talking to Samuel from France and Simon from Switzerland. They are very worried about their friend Justin who is in his early 20’s and was rushed to hospital from the campsite last night. He had heart problems. The ambulance took Justin’s backpack but his tent and sleeping bag etc are still at the site. Simon said he will pack it all up and give it to the Pine Lodge Cafe. He is going to ring the local hospitals to see if he can find out how he is. I’ve got their numbers and hopefully we can find out more info.

    ✉️ 12.00 - I pack up my bounce box and walk the short distance to the post office. It gets shipped to Warner Springs $22.80. I should be at Warner Springs within a week or so.
    I’m just about to head out on trail when my phone rings. It’s DinkyDi! She’s just got into town. “Stay where you are and I’ll come and meet you a coffee”. There she is!! I give her such a big hug. She tells me of her night at the campsite and superb trail magic.

    1.20pm - Di has already walked 9 miles from Cibbets Flat but she is happy to trudge on another 5.4 miles to camp. We make a stop at the shop for re-supply food for her, the post office and also the info centre to top up with water. Can I have a selfie? A guy who was driving back home and had chatted to us on the trail a few days ago stopped his car, jumped out and asked for a selfie! It was all a bit of a whirlwind but also very flattering. We are true PCT hiker trash! 😂

    2pm - and we are off! We have a choice to walk down the road or cut through the forest. Someone told Di to take the forest for the most amazing views and she was not wrong! Wow! Omg! Wow. As we emerged out of the forest trail by a small parking lot we have views of the desert floor and mountains beyond. I need to find better words for “stunning, gorgeous, beautiful, breathtaking” they just don’t seem powerful enough for what my eyes were seeing.

    2.13pm - Di and I are happily walking together and chatting when we spot Dan coming in the opposite direction. “You e done the same as me” he announced. “You are going the wrong way!”. I check the FarOut app and he is right. We are going down the map rather than up the map. Perhaps I should start counting a squiggles rather than snakes!

    Back on track with the magnificent views to our right now (not left!) I’m singing away. Di says “I suggest the trail name of Jukebox” for you. Each time Di mentions a word then I have a song about it. It’s something I do subconsciously. For example, we are walking down the trail and come to a creek where a German lady is having a break. Di says “Hi ho” to the lady and I start singing “hi ho silver lining, everywhere you go now baby”. I do it a the time and luckily it doesn’t annoy Di, she just sings along with me. The best song today was “top of the world, looking down on creation”.

    Wow, just wow. More views at each turn.

    🏕️ 5.35pm - We never did find anyone else of our trail family but eventually found a campsite at 8 miles into the hike (or 17 miles for Di!). Just me and Di tonight. A bit of stealth camping…. Sssssh!

    By 6.30pm we are tucked up in our sleeping bags and wish each other goodnight. I had no idea that this would be a terrible nights sleep….. the story continues tomorrow.

    Thanks for reading my rambles.

    Show your support: please donate to SHOUT 85258. The free, 24/7, confidential, mental health text support service. https://mhi.enthuse.com/pf/julia-doherty-10e0d
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  • Day 6

    PCT 2023 - Day 4

    April 20, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    The one with the half naked man in the woods!

    📍 Location: Cibbets Flat to Mount Laguna.

    🥾 PCT Mile Marker: 42.6 / Elevation 6212ft (high!!)
    🥾 I actually walked: 12.8 miles

    ☀️ Weather: Perfect! I left camp early and it was a bit chilly but as it warmed up I was walking next to a cliff that gave me shade and then through a pine forest. A perfect day.

    ⛑️ Health / Physical / Mental:- I felt a bit down this morning as I had to leave my friend DinkyDi at the campsite. She has dizzy spells (she couldn’t walk in a straight line) and was throwing up. She’s decided to stay at the campsite and wait it out.
    Physically I’m tired but feel good. The thought of being in a proper bed with a hot shower tonight is keeping me motivated.

    🍲 Food: Giant cookie & coffee for breakfast, fries for lunch then an awesome dinner of sea salt fries with meat and vegetables in a sauce on top. (I’ve forgotten what they call it, but see photo).

    💤 Sleep: 9hrs of sleep! I must have needed it. It was a very quiet campsite.

    💰Money: Too much!
    $14 for fries and hot chocolate
    $91 - for a motel room (thanks Rebecca)
    $38 - for three drinks in a bar with friends.
    $26 - for resupply food for the next three days.
    $22 - For dinner tonight.
    TOTAL - $191

    🐍 Snake count: Zero! Although I’m hearing more and more stories about sightings so they are out there!

    👨 People update: DinkyDi has altitude sickness. Harry is feeling better and back on track. People now have trail names and my little book of hikers is coming together nicely. I’ve taken a dinky Polaroid printer with me and I’m printing photos of all the people I’m meeting. It’s good fun to hear their trail names.

    LEARNINGS:-
    I used my portable bidet for the first time today. It was cold but rather refreshing and certainly makes you feel clean!

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    5.10am - I’m wide awake and started writing yesterdays blog. Gentle snores are coming from the tent next door (DinkyDi). The stars are stunning and so clear and bright. You can also see the milky way, it’s beautiful. I hope we have a good sunrise this morning as we’ve not seen a good one yet.

    7.03 - DinkyDi is poorly so with a heavy heart I pack up and start walking on my own. I don’t have enough food to stay another day so I have no choice but to leave her there. I need to walk 0.7 miles up a hill before I get back on trail but the weather is cool and I’m well rested. I’ve got this!

    9.25 - Five miles in and I’m taking a break. The climb has not been too bad. It’s all switchbacks and very rocky ground. Only 4.5 miles to go and I’ll be in Mount Laguna. I’m sitting by a creek with two massive pine cones for company! 😂

    10am - DinkyDi’s voice comes into my head as I fall up a giant rock step “if you trip then take a sip”. Realising that I haven’t drank much at all, I stop to catch my breath and take a sip of water.

    10.49 - Wow! I’m liking this beautiful pine forest trail. It’s soft underfoot and smells divine. There are massive pine cones everywhere. I need a wild wee so put my pack by a log, and grab my portable bidet. I’d rather experiment with this new gadget with a number one rather than a number two. “Squirt” blimey, that’s cold!! But I feel clean. A quick pat down and I’m good to go! I could get used to this. 1.6 miles to go. I’ll be there before lunch and I can’t wait!

    11.27 - I look up as I hear footsteps coming towards me. I young man in his 30’s is running down the hill with no clothes in apart from some small a blue shorts. I can’t help but stare at his six pack! “Happy trails” he says as he passes me. “It is now!” I thought with a smile. 😂

    11.34 - I hear someone approaching from behind me at quite a pace so I move over to the side and let her pass. She is not just walking, she is singing and dancing with her earphones in. At the bar later, I learn that her name is Anya from Ukraine and the pine forest reminded her of home. She was singing her heart out to some Ukrainian music. She’s been living in the US for the last few years.

    11.50 - Snow!! Just a few weeks ago this whole area was deep snow and PCT hikers were trudging through the forest. Today I come across one small patch of snow which reminds me of things to come when we get into higher elevation.

    12.00 - Pine Lodge Cafe. I enjoy fries and a hot chocolate and enjoyed conversation with a new group of hikers) although I’m missing my trail family.

    1.38 - Yey! I have collected my bounce box and the key to the motel room. I strip off and have the longest shower ever! The water running from my body takes a while to go from murky brown to clean! I put my town clothes on from my bounce box and set to work washing my clothes. When I asked about laundry facilities at reception, the guy says “sure, here you go” and hands me a bucket with a little box of laundry detergent. It was quite hard work trying to get my clothes clean, but they are now drying in the warm sun outside.

    3.30pm - I grab my Polaroid printer etc and head down the lane to the Saloon Bar. As I approach I hear loud voices that I recognise instantly. Sierra (now Hot Mess), Amelia (now Crick as she can’t say Creek), Supervisor Sam and Captain Cook are all here drinking whisky. Things could get messy. We are shortly joined by Disco Daddy, Joey and a few others. I spend a lovely waving catching up with them all and taking trail life. By 8pm I’m stuffed with food and drink and head back to my room for an early night.

    8.32pm - I’m snuggled up in bed. This is heaven!

    Night night. See you tomorrow and thanks for reading my rambles.

    Show your support: please donate to SHOUT 85258. The free, 24/7, confidential, mental health text support service. https://mhi.enthuse.com/pf/julia-doherty-10e0d

    If you are enjoying the content and would like to support the hike: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/juliadoherty
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  • Day 5

    PCT 2023 - Day 3: RIVER CROSSING!

    April 19, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    The one with the waterfall lunch stop, a gruelling climb and our first proper river crossing.

    📍 Location: Lake Morena to Cibbets Flat Campground

    🥾 PCT Mile Marker: 32.6 / elevation today reached 4219ft (and I felt it!).
    🥾 We actually walked: 15.11 miles.

    ☀️ Weather: Similar to yesterday, it started off quite cool but by 10am it was absolutely baking. Hiking with a heavy pack, going up and down these mountains is just exhausting. Our pace was 34 mins per mile which shows how tough it was.

    ⛑️ Health / Physical / Mental:- Tired! My body is tired and my tent now stinks of deep heat. No blisters but my left shoulder keep cramping up. I need to get some weight out of my pack and learn to manage my water better. Mentally I’m still quite strong although I did put my airpods in towards the end of todays hole and Rachel’s gym voice of encouragement with “you got this mum, just push a bit more” was with me all the way.

    🍲 Food: Expedition breakfast, cheese and crackers for lunch, pasta bolognaise for dinner and snacks throughout the day.

    💤 Sleep: I actually slept well although Joey and Di both had little visitors (gopher’s, which are a bit like moles). I didn’t hear a thing and was fast asleep by 7am and woke up at 4am. I’m nearly over the Jet Lag.

    💰Money: Zero money spent today. #HappyDays

    🐍 Snake count: I didn’t see any, but about 30ft in front of me, Di saw a baby snake. I think it’s just a matter of time.
    🦎 Lizard count: 100 million! They are everywhere and still make me jump.
    🐶 Dogs count x 2. A gorgeous golden retriever called Max and. Beagle called Luke. Di works for an animal rescue place in Australia and loves all animals. She has a rescue goat at home called billy. You should have seen Di’s face when she saw the dogs today.

    👨 People update: Harry is not well. He has a migraine, but he now thinks it may be Ecoli from the water at the campground. We were told to filter the water or boil it before drinking it. Harry & Anber didn’t see the signs. They still made it to the campsite tonight but we’re about 2 hours later than everyone else.

    LEARNINGS:-
    When things get bad then we always have more in the tank. We just keep going. One foot in front of the other.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    5am - Woke up and wrote up the last two days worth of blogs. I’m struggling to find time to edit videos as well and I don’t want to miss out on the social aspect of the trail. There is no point being here and just sitting in my tent editing videos so I’ll try and get those done in town.

    7.36 - Packed up, breakfast done and we are off. Freezing! Poor Harry has had a migraine all night so he and Amber are just going to see how they feel today. Tim, Joey and a few others have already left. It’s looking like a high of around 22 degrees today so should be a good day for hiking. (I laugh when I read this back as it got into the 30’s! - the weather apps lie!)

    7.54 - DinkyDi, Joey and I are hiking together. We see weird statues and then a random wild Turkey decides to cross our path! We do our “Chandler Dance” by a sign that reads “Campo 20
    Miles” and Joey suggests a trail name of Dancing Queen for me (but I decline it as I’m not that much into ABBA and I’m an awful dancer! 😂

    7.57 - We stop to chat to a local who is mowing his lawn. “Are you hiking the PCT?” He asked. “We sure are sir”, says Joey. “Well the PCT is that way!” As he pointed down the road where we had just come from. 😂 DinkyDi declared “another near squiggle”!

    9.13 - We are climbing up, up, up so at the summit of one hill it was time for a group of us to let the chickens out. (Which is a stretching exercise). DinkyDi has a similar exercise called “let the chickens in” which involves a lot of bending and swinging. It feels good!

    10.50 - This is where the fun starts as we approach our first real river crossing. On the other side of the river is Disco Daddy and Captain Cook. They tell us that it goes to your thigh in places and to face upstream as the current is quite high. We all change into our camp shoes and I have my Skinner socks on. DinkyDi goes first. DISCO Daddy is giving clear instructions as to which way to go. Apparently there are big holes in the middle so we needed to avoid those. Following his guidance Di made to the other side safely and now it was my turn. I took tentative steps as the ice cold water filled my shoes. It was smooth on the bottom and actually quite a pleasant experience. DISCO daddy guided me as well and before I knew it I was on the other side. Now it was Joey’s turn and he was over safely within a few mins. We joined Disco Daddy and Captain Cook for a break and a catch up whilst drying our feet. They didn’t make it to Boulder Oaks last night so were camping out here until 3pm to get their PCT tag, and then doing some night hiking. We wished them well and said we would catch up with them in town tomorrow.

    12.06 - The trail continues up, up. up, and the views are out of this world. All you can see is mountains galore in all directions. The yucca plants, cactus and wild flowers are beautiful. Bounding down the trail is a huge ginger Labrador, shortly followed by his owner. I hear a squeal of delight from DinkyDi who makes a big fuss of Max the dog. I was just thankful for the quick rest!

    1.36 - We heard through the trail grapevine that there was a side trail down to a waterfall. “Shall we explore and perhaps have lunch their?” I asked Di. “Brilliant idea”. It really hadn’t dawned on me that a waterfall would not be up high where we were. We left our backpacks in a bush just off the trail and I grabbed my chair and food bag. Heading down towards the waterfall it felt like we were off to the beach! After a rather sketchy scramble down we came out into an oasis which was just stunning. Jolly Sarah was returning from a paddle and she told us about the rattlesnake that was up on the rocks on the other side. Eeek! Im glad I’ve got my chair as I set up and put my feet is the cold water. You could near hear the sizzle as I did so. I washed down my legs and scrubbed between my toes. Blimey, I’m filthy! We spend about 40 mins Al having lunch and going for a paddle before packing up and making the steep scramble back towards the trail. The climb was worth it and was just what we needed.

    The next few hours was some of the toughest hiking I’ve ever done. The afternoon heat was just insane and my umbrella was not making much of a difference, plus it kept getting caught in the bushes. My feet are throbbing and I have pain in my hips and my left shoulder. This pack is really heavy and I tell myself that I can do it! Stop focusing on the pain and look at those views… which worked for a few mins! You know when things are bad when my AirPods make an appearance. I pop one into my right ear and get lost in a podcast. I only use one earbud as I’m keen to listen out for those rattles!

    4.15pm - We made it! Cibbetts Flat Campsite. We are here with MooseJaw (I think that’s what he said?), Jesse, Joey and Di.
    Funny story, DinkyDi in Oz means “it will be alright, everything is Dinky Di”. She’s never heard the term meaning “small”.

    6.10pm - Amber & Harry turn up. Yey and so do two more Americans. This campsite has toilet facilities which is a real bonus. No pooping in the woods!

    I’m so very tired and I’m in bed by 7.30pm. Goodnight everyone. Tomorrow is town
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  • Day 4

    PCT 2023 - Day 2 - Shower time!

    April 18, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    The one where we had a squiggle, the best cheeseburger ever and an orgasmic shower!

    📍 Location: Mile 11.4 to Lake Morena

    🥾 PCT Mile Marker: 20 : 3496 ft
    🥾 I actually walked: 14.7 miles

    ☀️ Weather: Perfect! The umbrella did come out when we started to climb Hauser Creek but it was manageable.

    ⛑️ Health / Physical / Mental:- I struggled with not being clean today. In hindsight my light aqua coloured hoody was not the best choice. Physically I’m good.. tired but no aches or pains (the training is paying off!).

    🍲 Food: expedition breakfast (from the UK, I love these!), the best cheeseburger ever (thanks Kelly & Kevin). Then just snacked again for dinner as the cheeseburger was so filling!

    💤 Sleep: I slept much better as it was warmer, although I have a slow puncture in my sleep pad which is annoying. I’ll need to try and fix it when I’m in a hotel.

    💰Money: $16 on burger and chips. $12 for resupply for snacks and lunch tomorrow. $5 on a campsite.

    🐍 Snake count: still zero!

    👨 People update: Peter from Switzerland now has a trail name “Disco Daddy”.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-,

    7am - I was awake at 5am but didn’t leave camp until gone 7am. I was the first up and the last to leave! Im walking with Di and Disco Daddy and the pace is just right.

    7.18 We talk about poo a lot on this hike! Horse poo, human poo and we also see a lot of coyote poo! Di knows her poop. She also told me that she could hear something sniffing around her tent last night which scared me to death! I was camping next to her and never heard a thing.

    7.26 - We stop at a small creek which was just 1 mile from our camp site and fill up on water. For some reason we got talking about cows (I can’t remember why?). Amber suddenly declares her love for cows and drops her shorts / leggings to reveal a very beautiful tattoo on her thigh of a Highland Cow.

    8.10 - Amber & Harry are speedy hikers so we soon lost them. Me & Di are happily hiking and outing the world to right when a booking voice comes from just below us and shouts “boo”. It scared the bejesus out of me and in early fell of the mountain… thanks Harry.

    9.08am - Three of us (me, Disco and DinkyDi) are walking side by side on a road track singing “D.I.S.C.O” the 70’s song. We were so distracted that we didn’t see the turn off for the PCT! One mile later we thought if best to check the FarOut Guide and I declared “in my club this is known as a squiggle”. We traipse back up the hill (no singing now!).

    9.42 - We head down to Hauser Creek which is flowing really well but is easy to cross using stepping stones. From here wee need to camel up as we have our first big mountain to climb (3496ft!). Others are here doing the same. Joel exclaimed that he had seen a snake! My heart stopped. It wasn’t a rattler, bPut just a small grey coloured one with a tiny head. He had to poke it with his pole to move it off the trail. We also bumped into a young man who was still packing up his tent. He shouted out to us “watch out for poison oak!”. I had no idea what it looks like so I went over to his little tent spot and he showed me the evil plant! Noted.

    The climb starts now. Let’s get this done!

    10.10am - 6.48 miles. This is a hard climb and full of switchbacks. I’m with DinkyDi and Disco Daddy. We stop for a quick breather numerous times on the way up and we are drinking so much. The views are just spectacular and it’s difficult to out it into words. We are walking through boulder fields then gorgeous green areas. The flowers are wonderful as well. Note to self: take photos of the flowers and Cacti 🌵 tomorrow!

    12 noon - All three of us turn a corner and there it is in the distance. Lake Morena in its full glory. It feels so good to see civilisation. 1 mile to go until we can order that cheeseburger that I’ve been thinking about for a while!

    12.30pm - We made to the famous Malt Shop where we all order burgers and coke. It tasted so good! Probably the best burger I’ve ever tasted! It’s gross though as I’m filthy and there is dirt under my nails! Captain Cook is here and has decided to continue on to the next campsite as he wants a PCT tag, and he can get one from the PCTA at Boulder Oaks Campground. That’s another 6 miles! Many people didn’t get their PCT tag at the start of the trail as the lady giving out the tags was on holiday for Monday & Tuesday.

    We finish our food, gather our stuff and lift those heavy rucksacks onto our backs. Heading back to the campground Dinky Di and I decide to camp here. It’s $5 for the night and more importantly they have hot showers! I have no soap or shower gel but find some in a hiker box. That will do! The shower is so good. It was $0.25 for 4 mins. I had 16 mins and washed my clothes at the same time. I feel like a human being once again.

    3.15pm. There are lots of familiar faces at this campsite and also quite a few new ones. We said goodbye to Disco Daddy, Supervisor Sam and a few others. Sierra (young lady from Montana) was sitting on the floor rubbing body glide on the inside of her legs. “Are you ok?” I ask. “Chub rub sucks!” She says. They all head off to Boulder Oaks to get their PCTA tags and we will catch up with them in a few days.

    4.10pm - An older gentle turns up at the campsite with a big bag of tangerines. His name is Scott and he lives in the village. He adores ThruHikers and he gives trail magic everyday to those at the campground. He points out a huge pelican that flew over the lake and also an eagle. Wow! “Does anyone need a lift to the Malt Shop?”. Six of us say yes please and hop into his people wagon. “Would you like a little tour of the lake?” He asks and we all say yes enthusiastically. Lake Morena is stunning. He drives us around pointing things out and telling us stories of the village and about his own hiking experiences. He gave tips on how to gut a fish and where the best place to go trout fishing in the area. He showed us an eagles nest that had two youngsters. It was just surreal. I’m so glad we stopped here. Scott dropped us off at the Malt Shop and I bought snacks and lunch for tomorrow. I was tempted to have another cheeseburger but thought I’d save my pennies.

    I spent the rest of the evening chatting around the fire pit and then writing my blog in my tent.

    LEARNINGS:-

    Showers are the best invention ever!

    Show your support: please donate to SHOUT 85258. The free, 24/7, confidential, mental health text support service. https://mhi.enthuse.com/pf/julia-doherty-10e0d
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  • Day 3

    PCT 2023 - Day 1: And we are off!

    April 17, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    📍 Location: Campo to Just short of Hauser Creek.

    🥾 PCT Mile Marker: 11.4 / elevation 3396ft

    ☀️ Weather: Weird! Woke up this morning everything was frozen. The first 4 miles it was overcast and perfect but then the sun broke out and it got hot! We were walking in 35 degrees and carrying heavy loads. Quite tough and hard going but the scenery and company made up for it!

    ⛑️ Health / Physical / Mental: very positive today. Feel good but I’m filthy and smelly which is a mental struggle for me.

    🍲 Food: CLEEF campsite delivered an amazing breakfast of pastries, bagels, and coffee. Lunch was a packet of nuts and a nature valley bar, then spicy pork noodles for dinner which was yummy.

    💤 Sleep: slept ok last night but it was very cold. My feet were freezing even though I had my down booties on. I just couldn’t get warm.

    💰Money: $22 on my Wise card for shipping a bounce box to Mount Laguna (around mile 40).

    🐍 Snake count: zero! I was paranoid all day especially as the weather got hot! Every stick was a snake!

    👨 People update: We have such a lovely group of people as we are in the bubble. There are four Brits (me, Sam, Harry & Amber). I’ve walked with DinkyDi from Oz all day today which has been great. Brian (aka Captain Cook) from the US has the same tent as me so we geeked out. At our tent site tonight we have 12 of us which is great. We all ate together and chatted around an unlit camp fire.

    LEARNINGS:-

    I learned that being filthy is a real issue for me and I need to get over it! They all laughed as I heated up water and gave myself a wash. You should have seen the grime coming off my body, especially my legs! I’m going to purchase wet wipes as soon as I can. My clothes are disgusting and it’s only day one!

    Show your support: please donate to SHOUT 85258. The free, 24/7, confidential, mental health text support service. https://mhi.enthuse.com/pf/julia-doherty-10e0d

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🍳 6.30am - An awesome breakfast at CLEEF campsite and a great atmosphere as we waved people off on their PCT journey. I used a bagel slicer for the first time (small things eh?). Coffee was the best!

    🇺🇸 7.44am - Gave John (US) my spare hiking pole as his had broken and he needed one for his tent.

    🏋️‍♀️ 8.05am - and we are off! Boy this pack feels heavy. Trevor weighed my pack at CLEEF and it was 22lbs with food but without water but it still felt heavy. And no, I’m not giving up my chair. Well, not yet anyway.

    🕺 8.15am - Mile marker one! We stop to take the iconic photo of the 1 mile sign and bump into Harry & Amber, two Brits from Reading. Amber does a “Chandler Dance” with me at the sign (from Friends programme).

    ✉️ 8.30 - Im walking with DinkyDi from Oz and we have a really good chat. She’s great company. We walk about a mile and arrive at the post office. From here I can post my bounce box which I’d also been carrying since the campsite. It took a while, and I had to throw some bits into a hiker box as it wouldn’t all fit into a large Priority Mail Box. I cover it with bright pink duct tape and wave goodbye to my comfort items. See you at Mount Laguna!

    9.20am - DinkyDi had sent her spare phone home to Oz at the post office and then we continued to hike together. One of my goals for this hike is to slow down and find a geocache. Dinky Di helped me find one at mile 2 which was hidden in the bushes.

    9.30am - We hit the famous train track at mile three. DinkyDi and I celebrate by doing a chandler dance!

    10.20am What’s that? Two random weird statue things are looking at us from a rock. They are about 6 inches high, have a big head and one toe. It’s strange the things you spot on the trail! We hear a noise behind us and we are introduced to yet another Brit, Sam from Maidenhead. He’s a real character, around 30 years old and very chatty. Our little group of three hike together for a few miles.

    🦶 10.40 - Sam, Di and I reach our first water crossing. I fell in the creek but in all honesty, it was lovely to have cold wet feet as they were so hot!

    10.42 - Not long after the creek we bumped into two locals. They warmed us about the river crossings in the next few days. Apparently one goes up to your waste! Eeek!

    ☀️ 1.20pm - It’s now very hot and I’m drinking water like it’s going out of fashion. This desert hiking is beautiful and the views are amazing but the heat zaps your energy. We decide to stop for lunch at the next creek. We are in “the bubble” which means there is a big group of us that constantly leap frog each other. Id say the bubble is around 30 people. We spot out friend Sara (HYOH hair cut lady) who is sitting on a rock. She has had a fall and grazed her legs and cut her knee open.we patched her up and decided to stop here for lunch and keep her company. Sam continued on.

    The switchbacks here are great and nothing like climbing mountains in the UK. They sort of weave back and forth at a gradual incline and before you know it we are at the top of another peak. There is water everywhere so I’m carrying about 2.5 litres at the moment rather than the six that I had originally planned for.

    🏕️ 4pm - DinkyDi and I stumbled upon a group of hikers at Mike marker 11.4 and we decided to stop and camp with them. We have 10 tents in an area for for three so it’s a bit cozy!

    🙏 Grateful: To DinkyDi for walking with me and keeping me company.
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  • Day 56

    Sierra Cascades - Finish line

    November 2, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today, we spent the last day on the Sierra-Cascades route. We enjoyed some last views of the Sierras and had a really pleasant ride with mainly tailwinds through the foothills until we could already see the Mexican border. Before crossing it in the morning, we celebrated this part of the trip with a beer in Potrero County Park where we camp for the night.
    All in all, it took us 51 days to travel this route from the Canadian to the Mexican border. We encountered all kinds of weather conditions: plenty of rain in the North, snow at Crater Lake, heat in the high desert, crazy winds in Southern California. We had to climb A LOT and stopped counting the passes and summits. We met so many nice people who supported us with warm showers, a cosy bed, spontaneous invites, food, great conversations or just cheering when we climbed uphill again. Thanks to everyone at this point, you made the US an awesome experience for us.
    We are now looking forward to entering Mexico tomorrow and opening a new chapter of our adventure.
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  • Day 4

    Trailstart Camping in Campo bei CLEEF

    March 18 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Heute klingelte der Wecker bereits 6 Uhr, da wir mit dem öffentlichen Bus bis nach Campo fahren wollten, wo der PCT startet. Leider ohne die leckeren Pancakes im Hostel machten wir uns gegen 7 auf den Weg zum Trolley und fuhren mit der Green Line bis zur Endstation El Cajon. In der Umstiegszeit machten wir ein kleines Frühstück und aßen unsere letzten Weintrauben und Äpfel. Dann ging es für fast zwei Stunden in einem ganz normalen und relativ unbequemen Linienbus über die Überlandstraßen bis nach Campo. Der Busfahrer ließ uns netterweise in der Nähe des Post Offices raus, wo wir ein Essenspaket an eine spätere Stelle auf dem Trail, nach Warner Springs, sendeten. Dort trafen wir nette niederländische PCT Hiker, Dario und Deverey. Gegen 10.30 Uhr machten wir uns auf in Richtung Campingplatz. Am CLEEF Campground angekommen, wurden wir herzlich von Papa Bear begrüßt, der hier für die Saison der PCT Hiker in seinem Wohnwagen wohnt. Alles war liebevoll vorbereitet, wir hatten WLAN, Ladestationen, Wasserkocher und Mikrowelle und es gab sogar PCT Sticker und eine riesige Wand, auf der alle Hiker von 2025 unterschrieben. Eine nette Wanderin auf dem Campingplatz gab uns den Tipp, bereits heute zum Trailstart zu gehen, um morgen am Campingplatz starten zu können. Ihre Begleiterin bot uns an, uns dort hinzufahren und so fuhren wir in einem Tesla mit weißen Sitzen, überdimensioniertem Dachfenster und einem Bordcomputer so groß wie ein Fernseher zur mexikanischen Grenze. Dort wurden wir herzlich von Abby empfangen, die für die PCTA (Organisation rund um den Trail) arbeitet und unsere Permit kontrolliert, uns aufgeklärt und anschließend ein kleines PCT Schild für unseren Rucksack ausgeteilt hat. Wir haben uns beide ins Logbuch eingetragen und nach einem netten Gespräch mit Ghost, einem Trail-Angel (so nennt man all die ehrenamtlichen Helfer, die den Wanderern Gutes tun) und ein paar Fotos mit dem Monument und am Grenzzaun zu Mexiko, wanderten wir die halbe Meile zum Zeltplatz zurück, bei dem mittlerweile ein Shuttle mit anderen Wanderern angekommen war. Mit Nightingale und John aus den USA verstanden wir uns gut. Rene aus Österreich und Christian aus Flensburg waren auch nette Bekanntschaften. Wir bauten unser Zelt auf und nach einem kurzen Nap, Essensvorbereitungen und Rucksack Packen und Nudel-Mittagessen trafen wir 18 Uhr alle Hiker und die Helfer Just Paul, Marmelade und Papa Bear am Kamin zu einem Gespräch zur Vorbereitung. Hier konnten wir noch ein paar letzte Tipps erhaschen und krochen danach müde in unsere Schlafsäcke für die erste Zeltnacht.

    PS: Diese lustigen Namen sind Trailnamen, die jeder auf der Wanderung bekommt, wenn etwas lustiges oder markantes der Person zugeordnet wird.
    Auf dem Foto seht ihr die PCT class, die mit uns morgen starten wird.
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  • Day 74–78

    Potrero County Park

    November 30, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Wir verlassen San Diego und nähern uns der mexikanischen Grenze. Vorhin haben wir noch alle notwendigen Unterlagen (Versicherungspolizze für das Womo, FMM = Forma Migratoria Multiple) bei Staples ausgedruckt. Ca 5 mi vor Tecate (= Grenzstation) verbringen wir die letzten Tage in der USA, bevor wir uns am 04.12.2024 in ein neues Abenteuer stürzen werden.

    Ü - Potrero County CP 75,00 (4 Nächte)
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