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Camino Frances Dos
  • Rose Berg
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  • Rose Berg

Camino Frances Dos

A 63-day adventure by Rose Read more
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    🇪🇸 Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Spain
    Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler
    The first of many poppy fields
    Making progressDancing into Navarette'Alley' in NavaretteEarly morning in NavaretteI gave the café owners that postcard 3 years ago!Vineyards!Sunrise out of NajeraSunrise on the barley fieldsOoold houseBarley and wheat fieldsDrinks in NavaretteThere are lots of cats!

    Navarette/Najera/Santo Domingo

    Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We didn't get to do the pintxo crawl. It was a Saturday, and I think the whole town of Logroño was out partying. Bachelor and bachelorette parties, families, pilgrims... We decided we didn't want to navigate wall to wall people. Had drinks and appetizers nearby. There were people still partying the next morning!

    Slept in a bit the next day as it was a short day to Navarette. Only 7 miles. All 8 of us shared a whole apartment, with a kitchen, and huge balcony. It was sizzling hot and great for drying our clothes. Later we all enjoyed a 'pilgrims dinner' which always includes a first course, second course, dessert, bread and wine. The price has generally been between 16.50 and 22.00 E. Amazing.

    I'm losing track of days - I only know the date because I'm sending most of my pack on each day. It's lightened my load considerably and I feel much better walking. I'm also walking at my pace, so sometimes I'm walking with the group and sometimes alone. Which is great for contemplation. ☺️

    The weather has been blue skies since those first couple days and getting quite hot around 10a, so we're getting on the trail early.  Yesterday we were in Najera. Today we watched the sunrise on our way out. A 13 mile day, we were happy to get to our destination(Santo Domingo) by 1p and have lunch and a cold drink. The three of us are tired and achy at the end of the walking each day, but so are the 30 something's. Ha.    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler
    Looking back at Viana
    Entering Logroño

    Logroño

    May 23 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    It was very hot in Viana, so we did as the locals do. Went to our albergue and took a siesta. After our routine of showers and laundry, had a delicious dinner and watched the sunset.

    Since our walk was short today - only 6 miles - we slept in until 630a, had a leisurely breakfast and arrived in Logroño before noon. We hope to do the 'pintxo crawl' this evening. But it's Saturday and already crowded. I hope they don't run out! Ha.Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler
    Sunrise out of Los Arcos
    2Heading towards SansolCarlos and LucOn the way to Sansol'Tribute tree'. Still there...2Sheep!Made it past the 'fall site'Lunch in VianaSunset in Viana

    Viana!

    May 22 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We walked out of Los Arcos as the sun was coming up. Beautiful morning and short walk to Sansol for our breakfast at a new bar that had been recently opened. Change. We've also noticed that the route has been redirected in some places.

    We stopped to air our feet about a hour or so out of Viana, and as we were getting our shoes back on, just down the road we see a flock of sheep coming our direction being herded by a woman sheep herder and her Blue Heeler. It took several minutes for the herd to come through. Quite a sight.

    As we were nearing Viana, I looked for - and thought I'd found - the spot where I fell three and a half years ago, but wasn't completely sure, so the photo I intended to take didn't happen. Maybe I wasn't supposed to take one. Regardless, I made it safely to Viana this time.

    We arrived about noon - hot and dusty and ready for beer and Sangria and food.    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler

    Los Arcos

    May 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    We had a great dinner last night - sharing 4 kinds of paella, a couple pitchers of sangria and great conversation.

    Up early, but not early enough to ditch the heat during the last few hours of our trek for today. It was also a stage of the Camino with only a couple towns along the way. We did find a food truck halfway between the last town and Los Arcos which fortified us until we got here. Then beers all around in the shade! Reached about 90° today. We'll have  an early dinner tonight, so we can get up before the sun and be on the road before it gets hot again. 

    Tomorrow will be a milestone for me - we'll pass the place I fell and broke my elbow 3 1/2 years ago!    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler
    First of many poppy pics ☺️On the way to Alto de PerdonOn the way to Alto de PerdonLooking backThe top of Alto de Perdon - they sound like jets flying overheadAlto de PerdonDetour... part of the trail is being updatedCindy ☺️Erica, Carlos and CindySome of our groupOn the way to EstellaOur Camino familySecond breakfastThis one's for Yianna. ☺️

    Zubiri, Puenta la Reina, Estella

    May 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Though the weather is getting warmer (82 in Estella today) the walk seems to be easing up on our bodies. The two days before this were grueling 12 and 14 miles. Today 14 as well, but we left earlier and arrived at the hottest part of the day, so didn't have to walk in it.

    Not a lot of variety these past few days - we get up early, grab breakfast, get on the trail, stop for '2nd breakfast', then later lunch or snack, get to our albergue (check in, shower, wash clothes), meet for beer, then dinner, then bed. So just going to post some pics.

    Our 'Camino family' has stayed together as we all enjoy each other and because we all seem to have the flexibility so far.

    It's fun seeing familiar places and remembering what it looked like in August vs now. Los Arcos tomorrow.    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler
    Still snow on the Pyrenees (in the distance)
    Tom - living off the gridThe rain stopped, but still chillyThe lady at this food truck had hats! 😄

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    May 17 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    I'm starting to get behind... the days are full. We have such a fun group, and are meeting new people everyday.

    After the night in Roncesvalles, we skipped breakfast, but Cindy had reserved a snack to take with us. (I have to 'pay homage' to her here, because she does all the research and booked all our albergues for the first week! Thank you, mi amiga!)

    We stopped in Burkette (sp) for breakfast (our snack) and later pizza and a beer for lunch in another tiny town. See? Always eating! 😜 But these are the opportunities where we are making memories.

    Just before entering the town where we had pizza, met an old man who's been living off the grid for, I think he said, 8 years. He had a lot to say.

    The rest of the way to Zubiri seemed to never end. The stretch that they called Dragons Teeth has been graded over and because of all the rain they've had, it's now slick as snot. By the time we arrived in Zubiri, our shoes were caked in mud and we were ready for showers and food.

    The Albergue Suseia is one of the best reviewed in Zubiri and it didn't disappoint. Sarah, the owner, served an amazing 5 course meal for 11 people that she'd prepared herself. And the group staying there was a blast. I haven't laughed so hard in a while.

    This albergue set the bar high. The one in Pamplona is a different story...    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler
    View from our room at Gita Ithurburia
    View from roomOn the Valcarlos routeOn the way to RoncesvallesIn a small town on the way to RoncesvallesValcarlos routeMade it to the top!

    Roncesvalles

    May 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Felt human again after getting to our albergue for the night and getting out of our wet clothes. Even our backpacks were wet inside.

    The host and hostess provided another tasty and wholesome home cooked meal at the Gité Ithurburia. We were able to dry all our clothes and shoes, had a great night's sleep (finally!) and were ready to head out to Roncesvalles by morning.

    Since we opted out of going over the pass because of the snow, we had a van drop us at a point equivalent on the alternate route (Valcarlos). And, OMG, it was not any easier than the Napoleon (over the pass) route. In fact, Cindy and I thought it was more challenging as it was a steeper climb. After 12+ miles, our bodies are spent. We had some rain, though not as heavy as yesterday. It was still a fun day - we walked with a few pilgrims we'd met in St Jean, (Angie/Australia, Erica/South Korea, Luc/Canada and a young man we met this morning Jacob/Chicago) - all really lovely, interesting people.

    Looking forward to our dinner here in Roncesvalles. Zubiri tomorrow. Hoping for warmer weather and some sun!    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler
    Carlos and Luc (from Montreal) leaving St Jean
    On the way upCarlos & LucThe lush countrysideSnow on the PyreneesYummy soup to warm us upL-R: Luc (Montreal), Erica (South Korea), Cindy, Moi, Carlos, Desi ((Holland)

    On Our Way!

    May 15 in France ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    We had a tasty home-cooked meal while meeting about a dozen other pilgrims (from Australia, South Korea, Holland, Argentina, Canada and the US) at the albergue last night. There were a few snorers in the group - as always - which made for a night of little sleep and a grumpy me this morning.

    After a light breakfast and a lovely send off by the volunteer hosts, we headed out in the rain. The countryside was lush and green and wet - quite different from the last time we passed through. The rain was relentless as we walked through rivers of red mud soaking our shoes and socks.

    By the time we reached Orisson - where we stopped for the day, the rain had soaked through all our layers and we were freezing. It had snowed at the top of the pass as predicted and it was a beautiful view from the café, but we were glad to not be walking any further today!

    Currently waiting to check in to our Gite for the night. Happy to be dry!    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler
    At restaurant
    Of course, beer!Looking up from prison - 3 flights of stairs into the earth

    St Jean Day Two

    May 14 in France ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    It's been raining on and off since we arrived yesterday. And though it's not winter cold, it's chilly to be out in it. So after we checked out of the apartment, we found a great little restaurant for an early lunch and lingered as long as we could. Then visited a museum that used to be a prison during WWII before checking in to our accommodations for this evening.

    We are staying in an albergue (in France, they're called Gites) tonight to be able meet some Pilgrims who will be starting the Camino tomorrow as well.

    It's looking like we may have to scrap the original plan to walk over the Pyrenees as snow is predicted, and we're not equipped to deal with that. First stop tomorrow is about halfway up, but the next day we will most likely be taking the alternate route to get to Roncesvalles.    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler
    Meow
    One of our pinxos at Baserri BerriAnother entertaining pinxoSt JeanCitadel wallView from the citadelBridge we will walk over to begin the Camino

    Pamplona/St Jean Pied de Port

    May 13 in France ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Our second day in Pamplona was pretty chill. Slept in, had a light breakfast, and went out to explore a bit. Lunched at Cafe Iruna, another nap (still catching up!) and had amazing tapas at a restaurant called Baserri Berri. Sounds like we eat all the time - the food is just so good.

    Today...
    We were early for the bus (to St Jean), and while waiting we were approached by a man who had a question. He spoke no English so was using a translator app. He told us he'd traveled from Taiwan to Dubai to Madrid to Pamplona without any stopovers! We also met a young man who'd just arrived from Brazil. They start their walk tomorrow, so chances are slim we'll see them again, but you never know.

    We arrived St Jean around noon, had lunch, registered at the Pilgrim's office, got our compostellas and shell; and after checking into our apartment, spent the rest of the afternoon exploring and walking along the citadel walls overlooking the city and distant hills. Then had another delicious dinner at Le Chat Perché (translates to The Cat's Perch).

    The weather's been showery and on the cool side, so far. Fingers crossed it improves!    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler
    Dulles airport before departure
    On the wall of my room in MadridRunning of the bulls statue in PamplonaAmazing dessert at La Olla

    Madrid/Pamplona

    May 11 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    A rainy and chilly morning kept us lingering over our breakfast. We still had hours to wait for our rooms, but the bar was getting busier so we decided to head over to the nearby square and found a table under big (holey) umbrellas. We ordered a pitcher of sangrias and settled in to people watch while also trying to stay warm and dry as shower after shower moved through.

    We were finally able to check in to the Airbnb and take a nap  before meeting two of Carlos's friends he'd met through work and kept in contact with. We enjoyed an appetizer of breads and delicious cheeses and entree of roasted potatoes with a spicy sauce and octopus (not my favorite).

    Next day...

    The time change is catching up to me - I didn't sleep more than an hour despite the comfy bed.

    1pm... Currently on the train to Pamplona watching the countryside -  dotted with wind turbines, old crumbling villages and the first of the poppies - whiz by.

    Arrived Pamplona about 2p. We all crashed for about 2 hours before going out to see a few sights and grab a drink at Cafe Iruna where Hemingway used to hang out. Cindy and I had breakfast here on our first Camino three and s half years ago, but it was new to Carlos. Still pretty impressive.

    We found the Pilgrim's store, purchased our poles and then on to a delicious dinner at another restaurant Cindy and I had lunched at the last time we were there, La Ollla.

    We're also staying at the same lovely hotel - Yoldi - a perfect location. Madrid is cool and I'd recommend visiting it; but as we walked around Pamplona last evening, I like the vibe better here.    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler

    A Little Hiccup

    May 10 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    This morning Cindy texted me from another room in the house that she 'got Wordle in 3' and that it was a good sign. Well.... as we are on our way to the airport, we all get a text message that our flight to Dulles has been cancelled! Cindy and Carlos were being rebooked on a connecting flight through JFK and I was rebooked on a flight that was leaving ATL at the same time we were scheduled to leave IAD for Madrid! Yikes!! So much for the good sign. Haha. Luckily, we were able to rebook ourselves on another carrier and our - well, my - blood pressure returned to normal.

    After a short flight, we arrived IAD about noon and spent the afternoon in the airport lounge.

    Took off for Madrid at 630p and arrived to a lovely sunrise. Having our first Spanish coffee while we wait for our check in to our Airbnb.    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler
    Our beloved Tahoma (and Mt Adams? in the background)

    A Stopover

    May 7 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    An early morning Lyft to the light rail, an easy hour ride to the airport and through TSA, then I finally relaxed a bit. Beautiful morning to fly over our local mountain. I'm making a stopover in ATL where my amazing friends and fellow travelers live. Finalizing our packing and plans.
    It's all a little surreal considering all that's transpired in the past 10 months; and I am determined to make every effort to be present and to take in all that we saw and experienced last time - and all which we missed.
    Our trip begins tomorrow- first stop Madrid. An overnight there, a couple nights in Pamplona and two more in St Jean; we begin walking on the 15th!    Read more

  • Rose BergCamino Frances DosTraveler

    Getting Ready!

    April 27 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    I've been making lists, gathering my supplies and mentally preparing for being away for two months. I'm grateful for my family (my badass sister in law!) who will look after my plants and my house until I return.
    As much as I'm looking forward to this trip, I'm glad I didn't miss the lilacs in bloom! ☺️    Read more

    Trip start
    May 7, 2026
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