• Rose Berg
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  • Rose Berg

Camino Frances Dos

A 63-day adventure by Rose Read more
  • Last seen in
    🇪🇸 Fonfría, Spain

    The Last Climb

    June 16 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Molinaseca to Samos

    We stayed up late on our layover in Molinaseca. Had dinner like spaniards at nine o'clock, three bottles of wine. 😜 We were celebrating being alive after that hell of a trail coming down from Foncededon. Ha.

    I didn't walk into Ponferrada last time, so this was a new stretch for me. We are definitely leaving the meseta now and can see the mountains. It's beautiful and makes me think of Washington.

    Going into Ponferrada was a short walking day. Planned that way so we could tour the castle and recover a little bit. A late afternoon thunderstorm cooled the day off.

    The days are becoming a blur. Even when you try to pay attention and be in the moment, your thoughts go a thousand different directions while we are walking. And then when we think back over the day, or over the day before, we can't remember where we were!

    From Ponferrada, we walked to Villafranca, a lovely village with a river flowing through the center. We'd spent a couple rest days there last time in an albergue just across the street from the river. We popped in on our way out of town to show the others the huge boulder it was built around. Discovered they'd framed the postcards I'd given them. Sweet!

    From Villafranca on to Las Herrerias, then up to O'Cebreiro and down into a very small town that smells like a barnyard. Just before we reached O'Cebreiro, we officially entered the region of Galecia. I think it's my favorite as it reminds me of home.

    Today we walked to Samos - tomorrow Sarria. The last 100 km before Santiago. That's the town I had to stop walking from last Camino, I'm looking forward to seeing new vistas.

    We've met some great people since Burgos and though we're not walking with them, we keep running into them on the trail or various towns. Some of them will be in Santiago the same days as we are so we'll be able to celebrate our arrival together. Six days to go!
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  • León to Molinaseca

    June 12 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Long catch up!

    Left León at sunrise.  It was a beautiful day for the walk - sunshine but a little cooler. Our destination for the day was Hospital de Orbigo. Frogs, storks, more wheat, barley, corn fields, some chickpea and sunflower fields accompanied us. We dodged tractors and 'F1 drivers' (as Erica called them). This was the last part of the meseta.

    We enter Hospital de Orbigo on a very long, very old stone bridge that brings you right into the old section of the town. We found our albergue and followed the same routine dropping off our packs, finding beer, showering, napping, etc. We splurged on dinner at the fanciest restaurant in town - and stuffed ourselves.

    The walk to Astorga the next day was pretty special. As we walked into the small town just outside of Hospital de Orbigo, we saw and I remembered the Bar Arnol! We'd taken a photo with him last time because he was so nice to everyone who came into his bar. So we decided to stop and say hi. It was a sweet 'reunion'. The postcard guy was still collecting postcards and sharing food just down the street.

    Just before Astorga, at the "hippie" rest stop we met a guy named Moses from Seattle playing the guitar. He lives about a mile from me! And Camino Joe is still selling his handmade jewelry and living out of his car. An emotional and happy day.

    Astorga was fun - we had a great lunch, saw the church, bought chocolate (there's a chocolate factory here) and had pizza for dinner. We left Astorga after watching the most amazing sunrise, had lunch at a cowboy bar and on the way out of that cute little town encountered a man on the side of the trail selling Camino shell necklaces. Of course we stopped. Carlos speaks fluent Spanish so we spent a few minutes with him - found out he's 91 and does this because he loves talking to the pilgrims. The BEST surprise of the day was running into the "stamp guy" who we were disappointed to not see in an earlier town we'd seen him last time. I'd given him a postcard, and he remembered us! He still had the postcard in his van. He gave me a special stamp and we are all featured on his Instagram page! A few tears were shed. What a day!

    We couldn't get lodging in Foncebedon, so we stayed in Rabanal, the town just before. What a difference that made for the last stretch up to Foncededon and Cruz de Ferro, which we did the next morning. It's kind of hard to believe, we've already come this far, when you look back over the terrain after you get to the top. Over three hundred miles. We only have about 130 left to go.

    The way down from Cruz de Ferro, however, was grueling. I don't think I've ever been so hot! Last time we nearly froze, this time we roasted.
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  • Bercianos/Ledigos/León

    June 7 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Taking advantage of the amenities, we had another 'eat in' dinner at the 'brewery house'.  After a buffet breakfast at the only Cafe in the small town the next morning, we were on our way to Bercianos.

    A 16 mile walk through more wheat and barley and corn fields. A day for ear buds (for me) and lots of contemplation. Many of the miles are next to roads, so you either listen to traffic, or music. We were all ready to be done after those 16 miles. And this time, it was in an albergue sharing room with many other pilgrims. At least we had curtains on our bunks.

    We passed the halfway mark two days ago in Sahagun. I didn't get the certificate this time since I'd already gotten one. We have less than 200 miles left to Santiago. Carlos, Cindy and I will continue on to Finisterre and Muxia before heading home.

    We reserved an apartment in Mansilla that evening - five people sharing the cost makes it doable and gives us more privacy. It's great to meet and talk to other pilgrims during the day. But we're all so tired at the end of the walk each day, it's easier and more enjoyable to relax with those you've come to know.

    Arrived León yesterday about midday. The walk into León is pretty boring -  it's suburbs and industrial/commercial, so it was a relief to get there early. Today is our last rest day until Santiago and much needed. We all are taking some alone time as well. Regenerating for the last push. We'll enter the region of Galecia in the next day or so.
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  • Frómista/Carrion/Ledigos

    June 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    It was cold this morning leaving Castrojeriz. We warmed up on the long climb out. It's hard to believe the temperature range from morning till about noon. It was probably high forties, when we left, it'll be close to eighty by the time we get to our destination. There are some clouds today which are very welcome, making it a little cooler for the walk.

    Well into the meseta now, this is one of the most peaceful parts of the trail. Rolling hills and ripening fields of barley and wheat. Some fields of potatoes, alfalfa and corn. We're not seeing as many poppy fields this year. Theory is that they've been plowed under for grain.

    The number of wind turbines that we see is pretty amazing - hundreds and hundreds of them.

    After leaving Castrojeriz, we overnighted in Fromista, then Carrion and now we're in Ledigos. There are way more pilgrims this time than three years ago, so it's been very tricky finding lodging. We're having to reserve rooms a week or more out.

    We really lucked out for tonight. An amazing find - it's a 4 bedroom house with an attached brewery! Thinking my brother and fam would love this place! And Justin, too! 😄 Wish we could stay more than a night...
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  • Burgos/Hornillos/Castrojeriz

    June 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    The extra day in Burgos was productive and restful. We had a great apartment overlooking the cathedral - a plus. The downside - it was also close to restaurants. And, man, can those Spaniards party. All night!

    We spent the day replenishing supplies, getting new tips for our poles and - because it's been so hot and I'd only brought one pair of shorts - I bought another pair. Then, of course lunch and dinners at some of the many restaurants. Most had outdoor seating and great menus.

    After Burgos, we walked to the tiny town of Hornillos. A little cooler day - most welcomed. No open restaurants, so we opened a couple bags of potato chips accompanied with a few beers. Dinner was home made paella and chocolate mousse for dessert at the albergue, then an early bedtime for a change.

    Today, we're in Castrojeriz after a 12 mile walk - the last few miles a bit of a slog because of the heat. Starting to see more poppy fields.
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  • Belorado/Atapuerca/Burgos

    May 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We watched the sun come up on the way out of Santo Domingo, and saw 3 high poles with stork nests, one with a baby. Stork nests are gigantic. And they will be more common as we make our way west.

    Our destination for the day is Belorado. Started out cool, but we were hot, dusty and out of water by the time we reached our albergue. The only good thing about the place was a pool! None of us had swimsuits, but that didn't stop us from jumping in. We may have raised some eyebrows but we did not care. We later suffered through a hot night in a room filled with bunkbeds and about 30 pilgrims. The showers and bathrooms were co-ed. 😐

    Another early start the next morning, to try and get to our albergue in Atapuerca before the hottest part of the day. It was mostly uphill with hardly any shade. We were on the final stretch when we came upon a woman who'd taken a fall. She'd broken her wrist  badly, and I had a visceral reaction when I saw it, bringing back memories. With the help of another pilgrim who was already there and on the phone to the ambulance service, the five of us and three other pilgrims (3 women who happened to be a general practitioner, an ER doctor and a Medical examiner!), she got pain meds, a makeshift splint and a ride off the trail by the Civil Guardia. Still thinking about her.

    We were 'rewarded' with an amazing rental for the night. A house in the tiny town of Atapuerca - each with our own bedroom! After the night of stifling heat in the room of bunkbeds, it was heaven.

    There was only one tiny restaurant in the town and we ended up having pizza but we were happy with that. Because we had comfy beds and a peaceful sleep to look forward to.

    Today is the beginning of week three! We arrived in Burgos this afternoon and are taking a rest day tomorrow. We plan to sleep in, sightsee and do a little shopping.
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  • Navarette/Najera/Santo Domingo

    May 26 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We didn't get to do the pintxo crawl. It was a Saturday, and I think the whole town of Logroño was out partying. Bachelor and bachelorette parties, families, pilgrims... We decided we didn't want to navigate wall to wall people. Had drinks and appetizers nearby. There were people still partying the next morning!

    Slept in a bit the next day as it was a short day to Navarette. Only 7 miles. All 8 of us shared a whole apartment, with a kitchen, and huge balcony. It was sizzling hot and great for drying our clothes. Later we all enjoyed a 'pilgrims dinner' which always includes a first course, second course, dessert, bread and wine. The price has generally been between 16.50 and 22.00 E. Amazing.

    I'm losing track of days - I only know the date because I'm sending most of my pack on each day. It's lightened my load considerably and I feel much better walking. I'm also walking at my pace, so sometimes I'm walking with the group and sometimes alone. Which is great for contemplation. ☺️

    The weather has been blue skies since those first couple days and getting quite hot around 10a, so we're getting on the trail early.  Yesterday we were in Najera. Today we watched the sunrise on our way out. A 13 mile day, we were happy to get to our destination(Santo Domingo) by 1p and have lunch and a cold drink. The three of us are tired and achy at the end of the walking each day, but so are the 30 something's. Ha.
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  • Logroño

    May 23 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    It was very hot in Viana, so we did as the locals do. Went to our albergue and took a siesta. After our routine of showers and laundry, had a delicious dinner and watched the sunset.

    Since our walk was short today - only 6 miles - we slept in until 630a, had a leisurely breakfast and arrived in Logroño before noon. We hope to do the 'pintxo crawl' this evening. But it's Saturday and already crowded. I hope they don't run out! Ha.Read more

  • Viana!

    May 22 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We walked out of Los Arcos as the sun was coming up. Beautiful morning and short walk to Sansol for our breakfast at a new bar that had been recently opened. Change. We've also noticed that the route has been redirected in some places.

    We stopped to air our feet about a hour or so out of Viana, and as we were getting our shoes back on, just down the road we see a flock of sheep coming our direction being herded by a woman sheep herder and her Blue Heeler. It took several minutes for the herd to come through. Quite a sight.

    As we were nearing Viana, I looked for - and thought I'd found - the spot where I fell three and a half years ago, but wasn't completely sure, so the photo I intended to take didn't happen. Maybe I wasn't supposed to take one. Regardless, I made it safely to Viana this time.

    We arrived about noon - hot and dusty and ready for beer and Sangria and food.
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  • Los Arcos

    May 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    We had a great dinner last night - sharing 4 kinds of paella, a couple pitchers of sangria and great conversation.

    Up early, but not early enough to ditch the heat during the last few hours of our trek for today. It was also a stage of the Camino with only a couple towns along the way. We did find a food truck halfway between the last town and Los Arcos which fortified us until we got here. Then beers all around in the shade! Reached about 90° today. We'll have  an early dinner tonight, so we can get up before the sun and be on the road before it gets hot again. 

    Tomorrow will be a milestone for me - we'll pass the place I fell and broke my elbow 3 1/2 years ago!
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  • Zubiri, Puenta la Reina, Estella

    May 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Though the weather is getting warmer (82 in Estella today) the walk seems to be easing up on our bodies. The two days before this were grueling 12 and 14 miles. Today 14 as well, but we left earlier and arrived at the hottest part of the day, so didn't have to walk in it.

    Not a lot of variety these past few days - we get up early, grab breakfast, get on the trail, stop for '2nd breakfast', then later lunch or snack, get to our albergue (check in, shower, wash clothes), meet for beer, then dinner, then bed. So just going to post some pics.

    Our 'Camino family' has stayed together as we all enjoy each other and because we all seem to have the flexibility so far.

    It's fun seeing familiar places and remembering what it looked like in August vs now. Los Arcos tomorrow.
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  • Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    May 17 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    I'm starting to get behind... the days are full. We have such a fun group, and are meeting new people everyday.

    After the night in Roncesvalles, we skipped breakfast, but Cindy had reserved a snack to take with us. (I have to 'pay homage' to her here, because she does all the research and booked all our albergues for the first week! Thank you, mi amiga!)

    We stopped in Burkette (sp) for breakfast (our snack) and later pizza and a beer for lunch in another tiny town. See? Always eating! 😜 But these are the opportunities where we are making memories.

    Just before entering the town where we had pizza, met an old man who's been living off the grid for, I think he said, 8 years. He had a lot to say.

    The rest of the way to Zubiri seemed to never end. The stretch that they called Dragons Teeth has been graded over and because of all the rain they've had, it's now slick as snot. By the time we arrived in Zubiri, our shoes were caked in mud and we were ready for showers and food.

    The Albergue Suseia is one of the best reviewed in Zubiri and it didn't disappoint. Sarah, the owner, served an amazing 5 course meal for 11 people that she'd prepared herself. And the group staying there was a blast. I haven't laughed so hard in a while.

    This albergue set the bar high. The one in Pamplona is a different story...
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  • Roncesvalles

    May 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Felt human again after getting to our albergue for the night and getting out of our wet clothes. Even our backpacks were wet inside.

    The host and hostess provided another tasty and wholesome home cooked meal at the Gité Ithurburia. We were able to dry all our clothes and shoes, had a great night's sleep (finally!) and were ready to head out to Roncesvalles by morning.

    Since we opted out of going over the pass because of the snow, we had a van drop us at a point equivalent on the alternate route (Valcarlos). And, OMG, it was not any easier than the Napoleon (over the pass) route. In fact, Cindy and I thought it was more challenging as it was a steeper climb. After 12+ miles, our bodies are spent. We had some rain, though not as heavy as yesterday. It was still a fun day - we walked with a few pilgrims we'd met in St Jean, (Angie/Australia, Erica/South Korea, Luc/Canada and a young man we met this morning Jacob/Chicago) - all really lovely, interesting people.

    Looking forward to our dinner here in Roncesvalles. Zubiri tomorrow. Hoping for warmer weather and some sun!
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  • On Our Way!

    May 15 in France ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    We had a tasty home-cooked meal while meeting about a dozen other pilgrims (from Australia, South Korea, Holland, Argentina, Canada and the US) at the albergue last night. There were a few snorers in the group - as always - which made for a night of little sleep and a grumpy me this morning.

    After a light breakfast and a lovely send off by the volunteer hosts, we headed out in the rain. The countryside was lush and green and wet - quite different from the last time we passed through. The rain was relentless as we walked through rivers of red mud soaking our shoes and socks.

    By the time we reached Orisson - where we stopped for the day, the rain had soaked through all our layers and we were freezing. It had snowed at the top of the pass as predicted and it was a beautiful view from the café, but we were glad to not be walking any further today!

    Currently waiting to check in to our Gite for the night. Happy to be dry!
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  • St Jean Day Two

    May 14 in France ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    It's been raining on and off since we arrived yesterday. And though it's not winter cold, it's chilly to be out in it. So after we checked out of the apartment, we found a great little restaurant for an early lunch and lingered as long as we could. Then visited a museum that used to be a prison during WWII before checking in to our accommodations for this evening.

    We are staying in an albergue (in France, they're called Gites) tonight to be able meet some Pilgrims who will be starting the Camino tomorrow as well.

    It's looking like we may have to scrap the original plan to walk over the Pyrenees as snow is predicted, and we're not equipped to deal with that. First stop tomorrow is about halfway up, but the next day we will most likely be taking the alternate route to get to Roncesvalles.
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  • Pamplona/St Jean Pied de Port

    May 13 in France ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Our second day in Pamplona was pretty chill. Slept in, had a light breakfast, and went out to explore a bit. Lunched at Cafe Iruna, another nap (still catching up!) and had amazing tapas at a restaurant called Baserri Berri. Sounds like we eat all the time - the food is just so good.

    Today...
    We were early for the bus (to St Jean), and while waiting we were approached by a man who had a question. He spoke no English so was using a translator app. He told us he'd traveled from Taiwan to Dubai to Madrid to Pamplona without any stopovers! We also met a young man who'd just arrived from Brazil. They start their walk tomorrow, so chances are slim we'll see them again, but you never know.

    We arrived St Jean around noon, had lunch, registered at the Pilgrim's office, got our compostellas and shell; and after checking into our apartment, spent the rest of the afternoon exploring and walking along the citadel walls overlooking the city and distant hills. Then had another delicious dinner at Le Chat Perché (translates to The Cat's Perch).

    The weather's been showery and on the cool side, so far. Fingers crossed it improves!
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  • Madrid/Pamplona

    May 11 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    A rainy and chilly morning kept us lingering over our breakfast. We still had hours to wait for our rooms, but the bar was getting busier so we decided to head over to the nearby square and found a table under big (holey) umbrellas. We ordered a pitcher of sangrias and settled in to people watch while also trying to stay warm and dry as shower after shower moved through.

    We were finally able to check in to the Airbnb and take a nap  before meeting two of Carlos's friends he'd met through work and kept in contact with. We enjoyed an appetizer of breads and delicious cheeses and entree of roasted potatoes with a spicy sauce and octopus (not my favorite).

    Next day...

    The time change is catching up to me - I didn't sleep more than an hour despite the comfy bed.

    1pm... Currently on the train to Pamplona watching the countryside -  dotted with wind turbines, old crumbling villages and the first of the poppies - whiz by.

    Arrived Pamplona about 2p. We all crashed for about 2 hours before going out to see a few sights and grab a drink at Cafe Iruna where Hemingway used to hang out. Cindy and I had breakfast here on our first Camino three and s half years ago, but it was new to Carlos. Still pretty impressive.

    We found the Pilgrim's store, purchased our poles and then on to a delicious dinner at another restaurant Cindy and I had lunched at the last time we were there, La Ollla.

    We're also staying at the same lovely hotel - Yoldi - a perfect location. Madrid is cool and I'd recommend visiting it; but as we walked around Pamplona last evening, I like the vibe better here.
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  • A Little Hiccup

    May 10 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    This morning Cindy texted me from another room in the house that she 'got Wordle in 3' and that it was a good sign. Well.... as we are on our way to the airport, we all get a text message that our flight to Dulles has been cancelled! Cindy and Carlos were being rebooked on a connecting flight through JFK and I was rebooked on a flight that was leaving ATL at the same time we were scheduled to leave IAD for Madrid! Yikes!! So much for the good sign. Haha. Luckily, we were able to rebook ourselves on another carrier and our - well, my - blood pressure returned to normal.

    After a short flight, we arrived IAD about noon and spent the afternoon in the airport lounge.

    Took off for Madrid at 630p and arrived to a lovely sunrise. Having our first Spanish coffee while we wait for our check in to our Airbnb.
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  • A Stopover

    May 7 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    An early morning Lyft to the light rail, an easy hour ride to the airport and through TSA, then I finally relaxed a bit. Beautiful morning to fly over our local mountain. I'm making a stopover in ATL where my amazing friends and fellow travelers live. Finalizing our packing and plans.
    It's all a little surreal considering all that's transpired in the past 10 months; and I am determined to make every effort to be present and to take in all that we saw and experienced last time - and all which we missed.
    Our trip begins tomorrow- first stop Madrid. An overnight there, a couple nights in Pamplona and two more in St Jean; we begin walking on the 15th!
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  • Getting Ready!

    April 27 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    I've been making lists, gathering my supplies and mentally preparing for being away for two months. I'm grateful for my family (my badass sister in law!) who will look after my plants and my house until I return.
    As much as I'm looking forward to this trip, I'm glad I didn't miss the lilacs in bloom! ☺️
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    Trip start
    May 7, 2026