Arrondissement d’Auxerre

It was yet another freezing start to the day. We had enjoyed our picnic the previous day so much that we decided to do it again. Before starting the ride we went in search of a boulangerie to buy our lunches. This took us back into the old medieval part of Clamecy. This part of the city is a maze of narrow lanes and extremely old buildings.

We found a tiny place that said they could make our sandwiches, but the only ingredients she had were cheese and ham. At least that narrowed down the decisions. I chose to have her make two ham and cheese sandwiches, but she informed me that the bread was still too warm to cut. We would have to wait a while. At least we would know the bread was fresh.

She then disappeared out the front of the shop and went down a flight of stairs, leaving us to run the shop in her absence. And that is what we did.
About 20 minutes later she reappeared with our sandwiches. I also bought a couple of cakes and some drinks, and finally we were ready to leave.

Soon we were back on the canal, enjoying the serenity of the bitterly cold morning air. The surface of the riding trail was surprisingly good (actually it has been good for the entire length of the canal). It is amazing how this entire complex system of canals, locks and water control was designed over 250 years ago. Construction actually began way back in 1784 and took around 60 years to complete. What an incredible achievement in an age before computers, power machinery, aerial surveys and the like. All the work had to be done by hand.

About 20 km into the ride we rode into a small village in search of coffee. By chance we happened to arrive on market day – the only day when anything happens in these villages. There were a few small stalls selling fruit, meat and second hand clothes. We were somewhat surprised to find the largest stall was selling beds and mattresses. I had not expected to find a Captain Snooze in such an unlikely place, and wondered how many locals would be loading up their trucks and tractors with brand new beds.

I ordered two cappuccinos at the TABAC and was a little taken aback to be charged 10Euro (almost $20). I know that prices have increased since we were last in Europe, but this was canal side robbery. It was only when the two finished works came out that we could see why the charge was so high. It was obviously something the owner was very proud of, but it certainly wasn’t a cappuccino. Whatever it was, it was served in a glass and had multiple coloured layers, topped off with a huge serving of artificial cream and a big biscuit. I also had never had a cappuccino served with a drinking straw before. It was a rather memorable experience.

A short distance later we found a lovely Aire de pique nique (picnic spot) where we could enjoy our baguettes while looking at a chateau perched high on a cliff on the other side of the canal. The sandwiches were delicious and the location magic.

The remainder of the ride was equally enjoyable. The sun had driven away the remainder of the fog and the temperature became perfect for riding.

At this stage of the ride the canal parallels the river Yonne, and they perform a complex, interwoven embrace complete with waterfalls (and of course lots of locks).

At one location we made a chance discover of acres of bright pink cyclamen. They carpeted the area as far as we could see. It was one of the most beautiful sights you could imagine, but unfortunately the photos did not do it justice.

Our destination for the day was the sizeable city of Auxerre. This also marks the finish of the Canal du Nivernais. Tomorrow our ride will conclude as we follow the Yonne to the smaller city of Joigny. That will also mark the conclusion of our 2023 Europe Ride.

In the evening we went to Le Quais Restaurant, only a short 1 km walk from our hotel. What a strange experience. After the incredible service we had had at the previous evening, this one was everything that a restaurant should not be.

The menu was extremely limited and, when we tried to change anything, the immediate response was to answer NO. It was only by direct plea to the boss that we finally made any headway. The message did not get through to the surly young waiter, who had the worst attitude problem I had seen in a long time. He obviously did not want to serve us and did everything possible to make us feel unwelcome. Food was almost slung on the table, wrong dishes were presented and numerous disagreements ensued between the staff and the boss. It really must be hard to get staff in this town, as otherwise any reasonable business would have given the young chap his marching orders.

It was quite a funny spectacle as the unfolding drama played out. We never really knew what was going to happen next. It almost made me wonder if this was some sort of act that they performed each night to entertain the diners. The place was certainly full of people, so it must have been popular with the local. We even happened to meet an Australian couple from Canberra who were dining at the next table. They told an unlikely story of coming to Europe to meet the pope ! Maybe it was true.Read more