Frankrijk
Arrondissement de Rodez

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    • Dag 22

      Tag 21 Saint Chely d’Aubrac

      12 september, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Heute geht es 16,5km bis Saint Chely Aubrac. Eine kurze Etappe, bergauf bergab bis zur Carderie. Natürlich gibt es wieder einen kleinen Zwischenstopp mit einer Tarte Myrtille (diesmal die schlechteste) und einem Tee in Aubrac, wo wir auch Konrad und Lotta wiedersehen. Abends essen wir im Café de La Marie Bruschetta und Bratwurst und treffen zwei Pilger vom ersten Stopp in Saint Privat dAllier wieder. Wetter ist sehr kalt, aber sonnig. (Kenneth hat am nächsten Tag erzählt, dass es in Aubrac schneit)Meer informatie

    • Dag 13

      Golinhac to Conques: rain, mud, hills

      1 mei, Frankrijk ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      It was raining lightly when we left around 8:15, and it only got heavier. The views were misty rather than panoramic, but always over green countryside, with cows sometimes lined up by the trail to watch us walk by. Sadly, it was a day of many narrow, steep paths, which were sometimes rivers of mud. But what the heck: we had two bags, and more clean socks and another pair of shoes each awaited us in Conques.

      Conques was a revelation. We knew the path to it went down steeply, so we assumed it would be a typical village/ town spread out beside a river. The last 1.5 km was an overgrown and steep Kokoda- style mudslide, and we could not see where the land flattened out. We were perhaps not concentrating on that too much: it was very cold and very wet, our fingers were numb, and we kept going around corners that lead not to vistas but to more of the same, and we were still on the upper half of a large hill. Then one slight turn and we were in a stony street with old houses way above the river. Then another, and we ran smack bang into an enormous abbey church. It was like expecting Nyngan but finding a miniature Oxford.

      Work started on Conques' church in the 11th C, and is apparently still on-going. It is now more a cathedral than a church, and the houses and hotels etc are packed in lines beside and around it. It all sits on a flattish area quite a bit higher than the river. It is old and pretty enough to have its own page... see below.

      Our hotel is just back from the church and is about 1 room wide. It has 4 rooms per floor. It is also several centuries old. We arrived at 2pm, seconds before out bags, but the 3pm rule was mentioned, so we looked in the abbey, the tourist office, and some of the shops, talked with a chatty young Englishman who had a tiny souvenir shop, then collected a key and started drying out.

      We met St Craig and Liz to return the borrowed overpants. They had arrived in Conques yesterday (having not had the short days with St-Come) and were in the other open hotel, but we took them to dinner in this one. The restaurant is usually closed on Wednesdays, but they were open on 1 May as it was a holiday and they hoped it might be busy. It was. Very good dinner: more aligot and local pork sausage for me, and the best beef ragout ever for Anne. Plus local red wine. We learned that Craig and Liz have a speech therapist daughter in Dubbo, and that we all shared a little trepidation about the very steep and muddy path that goes back up at the start of the walk tomorrow.

      Hotel was the Auberge St Jacques. 1 Wifi erratic. 2 No tea/ coffee. 3 Good bed. 4 Dark and winding stairs. 5 Fantastic dinner. 6. Okay breakfast - although I prefer to serve myself. 7. Family operated, and they were friendly

      31,250 steps, 25.2km, 76flights
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 16–17

      Boisse Penchot, Aveyron

      18 september, Frankrijk ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      We've only driven a fairly short distance (35 miles) today to another beautiful spot in Aveyron and our drive was very scenic, we are very much enjoying this region.
      Our stopover in Boisse Penchot is a municipal aire in a lovely parkland setting by a lake and provided free with services. And we've got fabulous weather too.
      Done lots of great walking again.
      Insects have made a meal of me today, Tim not once!!
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 28–30

      Day 29 - Golinac to Conques

      19 mei, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      The meal last night at the campsite was a worry as we had ordered a burger- they asked how we wanted it cooked??!! I said well done and Simon said medium… this meant that Simon’s burger came back only half cooked 😩 however he was so hungry by this point he ate half of it but it tasted more and more like pet food, so he stopped eating it and felt quite angry 😡 who eats raw burgers other than the french?
      Thankfully he survived the night!.
      The morning bought fog and rain. So we set off on our long walk to Conques all poncho’d up against the weather. We passed through the towns of Esperyac and Senergues. It was tough going, especially the descent into Conques- warning Helen and Andy, a tough ascent out again.
      Conques is a very old hobbledy hoy medieval village. When we got into our ancient house we found Hansel and Gretel 😂 Simon’s sense of humour! It all looks like it’s out of a fairy tale. As usual we were starving and have discovered that cafe/snack bars do a dish called ‘galettes’ which is the French version of a Staffordshire oatcake with savoury fillings 🙌 so we haven’t had to wait until 7 to eat.
      We decided to utilise the washing machine offered by the apartment and unfortunately put on a 3 hour cycle - lack of understanding french instructions 🙄 so have been kept up waiting for this to finish.
      We await the arrival of my sister Helen and her husband Andy who join us tomorrow for a few days on the trail 👣👣🙌🙌 so a rest day for us tomorrow! 👏
      We have now walked more than 400 km!! 👣👣💪
      P.S. Simon just gone to check on the washing and the clothes have all dissolved- that is the end of the walk 🤪
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 30–31

      Day 30/31 - Conques to Decazeville

      21 mei, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Yesterday we were up early to meet Helen and Andy off the morning bus from Rodez. The weather was mixed with intermittent heavy showers and sunshine. We visited the local bakery so we could all eat at lunchtime. The only grocery store was on the local campsite so we trotted through the cobblestone streets to get the necessities- toilet rolls and bananas 😂.
      After lunch we visited the Abbey at the centre of the town. Then got chased back to our medieval house by yet another downpour.
      After a chilled afternoon resting we hit the bar before having a lovely meal in the terrace bar.
      We were up early as we had a 19km walk to Decazville an old industrial mining town.
      Helen and Andy were inducted into the world of Camino walking through a very tough uphill 2km climb out of Conques.
      The weather has been dry all day 🙌🙌
      We passed through the forest of sweet chestnut trees then into a very British landscape of meadows.
      We stopped in Noilhac for a delightful orange presse and coffee mid morning.
      Lunch was enjoyed in a field and we finished off all the delights we had brought in the bakery yesterday.
      19km later we hit Decazeville and discovered an organic microbrewery so had our well done drink here.
      We then walked up the hill to today’s accommodation which is run by an ageing hippy. He has 2 rooms and we are to share with another pilgrim- so we have split into gender based rooms- as this will be easier to manage. We sit on the terrace having showered and relaxed.
      We await to see what’s for dinner - and who our fellow pilgrim will be …
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 2

      Conques - auf geht’s zur 1. Etappe

      16 maart, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Noch schnell in der einzig offenen Bar ein Croissant 🥐 in den Café Olé ☕️ ditschen, bevor es auf die Piste geht. Es war schon ziemlich spät – 13:30 Uhr und geplante 19 km wandern 🥾 nach Decanzeville standen an. Doch zu Beginn war noch nicht klar, dass ich mich einmal ordentlich verfranze (+4 km / 50 Minuten im Kreis laufen) und dass es in Decanceville keine offenen Hotels oder Gîtes gibt. Einfach noch keine Saison für Pilger. Die nächste offene Unterkunft war dann in Livinhac / Gîte du Pont (+ 5 km / 60 Minuten). So sind aus 19 km 28 geworden und aus 4 Stunden 5 3/4.Meer informatie

    • Dag 76

      Begegnungen am Wegesrand - Teil 10

      15 mei 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Ich wandere mit Magdalena und Tanguy eine Straße hinter dem Dorf Sénergues hinauf, als links von mir plötzlich ein pelziges Tier seinen großen Kopf hebt. Da steht ein Esel, seelenruhig den Grünstreifen zwischen der Straße und einem kleinen Rastplatz abgrasend.
      "Ich glaube, den muss ich für Jonas fotografieren", sage ich zu Magdalena, der ich schon einmal von Jonas' Liebe zu Eseln erzählt habe. Außerdem schaut das Tier wirklich unglaublich süß aus: es trägt große Satteltaschen auf seinem Rücken und in seinem Halfter stecken Blumen. All das scheint den Esel kein Stück zu stören, da er sich nur für das saftige Gras am Wegesrand interessiert.
      Erst auf den zweiten Blick fällt mir der grauhaarige Mann auf, der gerade seinen Proviant auf einem Picknicktisch ausbreitet. Sein kleiner, langhaariger Hund läuft uns Neuankömmlingen freudig entgegen.
      "Darf ich ein Foto machen?", frage ich den Mann auf Englisch und deute auf den Esel. Er nickt und kommt näher.
      "Sprecht ihr Deutsch?", fragt er uns seinerseits. Magdalena und ich bejahen und er wechselt in ein akzentbehaftetes Deutsch.
      "Gehst du nach Santiago?", frage ich ihn und streiche mit der Hand über die weiche Eselnase. Als der Hund merkt, dass der Esel gestreichelt wird, trottet er zu mir herüber und lehnt sich auffordernd an mein Bein. Folgsam beginne ich, ihm den Rücken zu kraulen.
      "Ich bin auf dem Zurück... Zurückweg?" Der Mann sieht mich fragend an.
      "Rückweg", sage ich lächelnd und staune nicht schlecht.
      "Rückweg!", bestätigt der Mann. "Ich komme aus Belgien."
      Er fragt uns, woher wir kommen und wohin wir gehen. Für ihn wirken meine und Magdalenas Reisen zur Abwechslung einmal nicht so außergewöhnlich.
      Ich würde mich gerne länger mit dem Mann unterhalten, merke aber, dass er zu seinem Mittagessen will, außerdem kann Tanguy unser Unterhaltung auf Deutsch nicht folgen, das dem Mann lieber zu sein scheint als Englisch. Also verabschieden wir uns nach einigen weiteren Sätzen.
      "Wisst ihr schon, welchen Weg ihr in Spanien einschlagen werdet?", Will er noch wissen.
      "Ich werde den Camino Francés gehen, sie ist sich noch nicht sicher", sagt Magdalena und deutet auf mich.
      "Wenn ihr weniger Menschen und kühleres Wetter wollt, geht den Camino del Norte", empfiehlt uns der Belgier. "Der folgt immer der Küste, aber es geht auch mehr auf und ab." Mit seiner Hand deutet er Berge an.
      Ich nicke, der Weg ist mir bekannt. Nachdem ich mich für den Rat bedankt habe, wenden wir uns ab und folgen weiter der Straße aus dem Dorf heraus. Ich denke darüber nach, wie mir immer wieder Menschen begegnen, die mir vom Camino del Norte erzählen und ob das wohl ein Zeichen ist, dass ich doch diese Route durch Spanien wählen soll. Bisher habe ich den Weg nur als Ausweichmöglichkeit in Betracht gezogen, falls die Hauptroute im Juni noch immer so unglaublich überrannt sein sollte wie man momentan hört. Allerdings weiß ich auch, wie wunderschön der Küstenweg ist. Ich war bereits zweimal dort.
      Glücklicherweise habe ich noch etwa drei Wochen Zeit, mich zu entscheiden.
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 76

      Mohnblumen und Sonnenschein

      15 mei 2023, Frankrijk

      Die ersten, sonnigen Kilometer des Tages vergehen wie im Flug - zumal es bergab geht. Die Wege sind von Mohnblumen und Klee gesäumt und jeder Sonnenstrahl macht uns ein Stück glücklicher, hier zu sein.
      Bei der Mittagspause treffen wir auf Joop und Tanguy, einen Niederländer und einen Franzosen, die wir vom gestrigen Abendessen in der Herberge kennen. Tanguy begleitet uns noch den Rest der Etappe und gemeinsam haben wir viel zu Lachen.
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 14

      Now, that’s a knife!

      27 september 2022, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      We were very excited about our morning activity today. We were off to Laguiole to see the Laguiole Knife Museum, to learn about their history and see these most beautiful knives being made. Unfortunately, due to COVID, they have lost most of the staff who speak English, so the guy who gave us the history talk couldn’t parler Anglais. The solution was to have myself and Ian, with some help from Mary, interpret! (Ed - Danielle did a fantastic job.) There were a couple of moments where things got lost in translation, but overall I think it was a great team effort. The most amusing part was when he was explaining the use of the “spike”, the third element added to the knives. It was developed to punch cows in the stomach to relieve gas pressure if they had eaten too much green grass. He also seemed to be suggesting a similar use if people had eaten too much. But, in the end we realised it was to punch an extra hole in the belt.

      After the history and a demonstration of how the knives are made, polished etc, and a walk through their museum, we were let loose in the shop. There were so many options, it was quite overwhelming, but we all made a purchase.

      After our close encounter with knives, we hit the road and travelled to Buron de Camejane, a typical dairy farm from the Aubrac region to see Aligot being made and then having it for lunch with a grilled beef saucisson. This dish comprises, potato, Tome and Fourme cheese, butter, cream and S & P. (Ed - more or less a heart attack on a plate.) It was delicious, but virtually impossible to finish. We had a rum punch to start and wine was also available. For the meal we had charcuterie for entree, a cheese course after the Aligot main, and the best blueberry pie I have ever had for dessert. Everything was delicious and I think we will need to walk some way to burn off the Aligot.

      As the weather was quite bad (cold, wet and windy), especially as we were on an escarpment 1,300 metres above sea level, we reviewed the schedule and, instead of walking from Aubrac to Les Cambrassats (which was over 10km), we did a much shorter 3 km walk finishing in the delightful town of Saint Côme d’Olt. Fortunately we had good weather for our walk. We walked around the town and picked up some supplies before arriving at our accommodation for the evening, a Covent that has been converted into a simple hotel. The rooms were basic, but clean and comfortable and we were served meals ‘cafeteria style’. It was a nice experience and the nuns were lovely (not like the horrible nuns I had at school).
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 74

      Regen, Regen, nichts als Regen

      13 mei 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Regen, Nebel und Kälte prägen weiterhin unseren Weg. Immerhin werden wir mit einem Regenbogen belohnt. Magdalena und ich gönnen uns eine heiße Schokolade in Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac. Später machen wir während einer kurzen Regenpause Mittagspause, aber auf den letzten Kilometern regnet es umso stärker.Meer informatie

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    Arrondissement de Rodez

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