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    • Day 36–37

      Day 36 - Cajarc to Limogne-en-Quercy

      May 27 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      We snacked on saved bread and a tin of posh pate we found in the only store open on a Sunday. We chilled in the garden with this snack and one of the many mischievous cats. Simon experimented with the hammock. Quite a restless night due to ‘church’ feet. (Restless feet!)
      Met a nice couple from Estonia and Holland but who actually live in Germany. Chatted over le petit dejeuner.
      Set off for Limogne-en-Quercy - a fairly short 15k distance. Once again we bumped into Cliff - a fellow pilgrim - we regularly have seen over last fortnight. We did whole walk non stop despite rain ☔️ once again half way through.
      We found the only cafe in Limogne that was open - yes it’s Monday!- and it was heaving. Decided to have lunch here rather than waiting to 7 to eat - very reasonable €14.90 for 3 courses👍
      We saw a chap we had noticed on several occasions at other locations who is walking the pilgrim route, quite young, but always seems out of it. Today while we had lunch he was downing the beers, went to get up and knocked his table full of beers flying, he must of fallen on the glass as the next thing we know is the ambulance arrived to sort him out 😕
      We finished our lunch and made a trip to the local launderette which was conveniently in the supermarket car park so we got washing and shopping done in one fell swoop 🙌
      Staying once more in a mobile home on a campsite. Cheese, crackers, fruit and wine for supper!!
      All is peaceful as we unwind for the night 😴
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    • Day 37–38

      Day 37 - Limogne en Quercy to Vaylats

      May 28 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      A reasonable night in the caravan - slept in to 8!!
      Enjoyed our petit dejeuner, packed up and headed into town to send some unneeded vetements back to Blighty. Emily be warned!
      Nearly headed off in the wrong direction 😳 but realised before too many wasted steps.
      It was a hot and sunny day so we both donned our shorts for the first time on this walk 🦵 a shock to the world!!
      A pleasant walk today through fields and woods - Simon spotted a deer.
      We stopped in the town of Vairers for a welcome lemonade and once again set off in the wrong direction as some helpful French guy pointed that this was the way 🤦🏻‍♀️
      It was only when I saw our distance to destination had increased from 7.9 to nearly 12 we realised and had to double back - much to Simon’s annoyance.
      We heard and saw our noisy frogs again.
      We passed fields full of oxeye daisies that were lovely.
      We arrived at our destination for the night - another convent! And have been put up in a very nice room that overlooks a moat - that is full of - you guessed it - noisy frogs 🐸 I’ve recorded the sound and will see if it uploads.
      Supper was a task - stewed beans with marinaded pork - rather salty - needed many glasses of water to get it down! The Plodicus already had an iffy stomach 🥴
      Let’s see what the night brings- and we have a much longer walk tomorrow!!
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    • Day 18

      Cajarc to Mas de Games

      May 6 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      We stayed in bed a bit longer than recent normal because we had a mere 20kms to walk. Breakfast at 8am (good cereal), bags left at reception, into town and a boulangerie, then along the river, up and down a few hills, through rocky woods and farmland and stopped at a village called St Jean de Laur for lunch at exactly 12pm - sitting on a rock with a view over the countryside.

      Note to Nico ( who may well be secretly reading this each day): it is acceptable for your parents to have the same simple lunch several days running because we also have breakfast ( hint) and extremely varied dinners - from potato-less potato soup to amazing dishes in Conques and St Chely.

      We knew it was 12:00:00 when we stopped as the bells in the church beside us rang 12 times, then 12 times as we put down our backpacks, then started a little tune as we ate, then another new peal effectively to announce that the rain was starting.

      It had been cloudy all morning - T-shirt weather once walking- but light rain set in as we sat there, so ponchos on, lunch over, setting off. It was only 6kms to the place we are staying - a ‘Chambre d’hotes’ or B&B. Another long rocky path and surprisingly monotonous scenery - thick woods, with few clearings or buildings.

      We arrived at Chambre d’Hotes La Hulotte, Mas de Game, at around 1:30, just as the rain eased. The non- English speaking host showed us the room and large kitchen/ communal area. Our luggage was there, plus 4 other cases, so perhaps 6 people at dinner tonight.

      The room is decorated in a more rustic style than hotels, but is otherwise as large and good, and we have had the large kitchen to ourselves for a few hours. It has a small garden, cows in the next field and a few old stone farm buildings and houses nearby. I walked around in sunshine, although it was only 12deg. Later we both walked around the area again, but there was not much to see and the rain was back.

      Dinner at 7pm was for six - two French men, two French women and u, and all of us around the same general age. Two men spoke better English than our French, so we got along. The meal was all home-made: vegetable soup, a terrine, duck sausage and chocolate cake. A bit of discussion on how to organise caminos, which agencies were good or bad (sadly, ours is squarely in the latter category) and the weather outlook, as well as where we all came from.

      29,466 steps, 22.1 km and 55 flights.
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    • Day 80


      May 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Der heutige Tag ist das ziemliche Gegenteil von gestern: anstrengend, er zieht sich, Magdalena und ich mühen uns ab und wollen eigentlich nur, dass er vorbei ist. Aber über den Weg ansich können wir uns eigentlich nicht beschweren: die Strecke ist recht flach, mit wenig Asphalt und schönen Waldwegen.
      Zu Mittag sind wir in Limogne-en-Quercy, wo wir das Geschäft am Ortseingang genau fünf Minuten vor der stundenlangen Mittagspause erwischen. Glücklich mit unserer Ausbeute schlemmen wir kurze Zeit später auf dem Hauptplatz des Ortes.
      Auch den Rest des Tages ist mir mehr nach Pause als nach gehen, trotzdem legen wir die 32km bis Bach irgendwie zurück.
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    • Day 16


      September 29, 2022 in France ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      After the visit to the truffle farm, we headed back into town to have lunch at a cafe as the weather was not conducive to the picnic which had been the plan. Instead, we had kebabs, chips and a glass of red wine in a café playing reggae music, which went down a treat. We also did a little wander around the town and got our passports stamped at the local church. We then jumped back in the bus and set off for Rocamadour. Jerome took smaller roads which meant we were treated to a wonderful scenic drive through some beautiful villages. The French countryside is just so beautiful and even though they have had a very hot summer there has been some rain which is turning the countryside a lovely green.Read more

    • Day 16

      Leaving Conques in search of truffles.

      September 29, 2022 in France ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      We left the delightful town of Conques and settled in for a 90 minute drive to Limogne-en-Quercy. We arrived a little early, so walked around the town and found a place for a coffee. The resident dog - a French bulldog- was extremely friendly, wanting lots of attention.

      We then headed a bit out of town to the Truffle farm to meet Marie-France and her trusty dog Caline (a 4 year old beagle). Marie-France has about 1,000 trees on her farm. They were planted by her grandparents and, on average, only 10% of trees will yield truffles in any given year. It can take up to 15 years before you see any results and there are many other factors that come into play such as the weather, especially rain and heat, the health of the trees and just plain luck! The largest truffle Marie-France has ever found was around 300 grams and it was the last truffle ever produced by that tree (its swan song). Strangely, she didn’t sell it, and keeps it in a jar to show the tourists.

      There are many rules and regulations that need to be followed regarding the growing and selling of truffles. Marie-France also informed us that they pay tax on the number of trees they have not the size of their yield, which seemed unfair to us, but she replied that is how it is.

      Selling truffles is done at an open air marketplace during the truffle season - the best are the ‘winter’ truffles found between December and March. You have your truffles in a basket and a buyer will approach you with a written offer which you can accept or reject so, again, chance and luck play into it. Once you have agreed on a price you cannot then take a better price if one is offered. Marie-France said she did do that as a 15 year old selling truffles for the first time, and was allowed to get away with it, but was warned it would not be acceptable going forward.

      At the end of the market, you take your basket of truffles and your slip of paper to the buyers car where the exchange of truffles for cash takes place. The best truffles are black or black and grey, followed by the brown and grey ones. Marie-France said there are truffles that don’t cut the mustard and are sold at a cheaper price to be used as ingredients in other products such as pâté or saucisson.

      Marie-France did mention that Australia is producing some very good quality truffles, and that China produces a lot of truffles but their taste, perfume and general quality is inferior. Marie-France told us the best way to use truffles is freshly sliced or grated and added to the meal at the last minute. She also told us to place eggs in a container with some slices of truffle and leave them for 24 hours so that the flavour will be absorbed by the eggs and then make omelettes, these are known as a poor man’s omelette.

      The last part of the time with Marie-France was a live demonstration of Caline finding truffles. It was amazing how well she did at finding them. All dogs must be trained to become truffle hunters and many breeds of dog are successful. Years ago they used pigs for the role of truffle hunter but they became too large and difficult to manage and also, unlike dogs, love truffles so you had to be quick to take the truffle from the pig before they ate it!

      Following the demonstration we got to sample truffles on fresh bread with butter and also on warm toasted bread with cheese. We also drank a glass of truffle wine, which was delicious.

      After the visit concluded we headed back into town to have lunch at a cafe before heading off along the smaller roads to Rocamadour.
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    • Day 79

      Windmühle bon Lugagnac

      December 4, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

      Ich stehe total auf Windmühlen und diese hier ist wirklich schön, daher ein kurzer Foto Stop. Leider kann man auf dem erklärschild gar nichts mehr erkennen. Schade!

      Die Landschaft ist hier hügelig und von hellen Steinmauern durchzogen. Erinnert mich sehr an Schottland!

      Auf dem Landschaftsbild kann man hinten rechts sogar schon das Zentralmassiv sehen. Dort hin sind wir auf dem Weg!
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    • Day 232

      86. Etappe Cajarc - Limogne-en-Quercy

      August 26, 2018 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Heute war der Tag der Schotterwege - das bedeutet für uns immer besondere Vorsicht. Trotz der neuen Schuhsohlen sind meine Füße/Beine von dem "Gerutsche" total "kaputt".

      Umso besser, daß wir heute eine mega hübsche Herberge mit Halbpension bewohnen - ausruhen, Füße hoch. :)
      Unsere Herbergseltern sind so nette Gastgeber und noch dazu fantastische Köche. Das Abendmenü war einfach französisch lecker! Danke

      Die Gegend hier ist ziemlich trocken, die Tiere auf den Weiden haben im Moment kaum Grünes zu fressen. Leider geht auch die Brombeer-Zeit so langsam zu Ende. Die Beeren vertrocknen an den Sträuchern.
      Im Austausch durfte ich aber die ersten reifen Pfirsiche genießen. Nein, nicht aus einem Garten - vom Wegesrand! Mmh. :)

      Der Weg war heute sehr einsam: kaum Dörfer, nur eine Kirche am Weg, wenig Pilger.
      Eine kleine Pilgerüberraschung war ein klimmpernder Muschelvorhang an einem Rastplatz. Was für eine hübsche Idee!

      In der Herberge trafen wir auf zwei sympathische deutsche Frauen - Regina und Birgit. Mit ihnen verbrachten wir den Abend und lachten über unser Pilgerlatein. Also doch ein Duo - die zwei freuten sich sehr über die Tages-Schornis. Für die nächsten zwei Wochen können auch sie viel Glück auf ihrem Jakobsweg gebrauchen. Buen Camino!

      P. S. Birgit's Kommentar zu meiner bisherigen Pilgertour: "Na toll, da bist du ja schon ausgewildert!" ;)
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    • Day 24

      Jour 21: Cajarc à Limogne de Quercy

      September 15, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      17.67 km - v 279m, ^ 422m

    • Day 25

      Jour 22: Limogne en Quercy à Cahors

      September 16, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Rest day - took the bus.

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Limogne-en-Quercy, Limonha, Limonha de Carcin, Лімонь-ан-Керсі, 屈埃尔西地区利莫尼

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