France
Saint-Michel

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    • Day 5

      And Over the Pyrenees!

      September 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

      Today we continued up and over the Pyrenees and into Spain. Allegedly only 11 km but my fitbit says 11 miles. Could have been the path we took down the final descent…I think it was a longcut rather than a shortcut but so pretty! We were walking with our new friend Linda and there was a fork in the trail. We chose left. About 1/4 down a big rocky hillside we started to figure out that the trail we were on was the one that the nice man in the pilgrims office said NOT to take because it’s steep and dangerous. Oops! It was steep but not nearly as gnarly as about half the trails in our national parks. Plus it went through a beautiful forest!

      Here the people put bells on the collars of all their grazing animals. The sheep have little bells that sound delicate and beautiful and the cows and horses have big bells, about the size of those cans we used to buy tomato juice in back in the day!

      We’re in a tiny village called Roncesvalles with a population of 21! It’s the site of an old monastery that was built in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries as a layover for monks making the pilgrimage to Santiago. Apparently too many monks were dying as they tried to go the 40 something km from St-Jean, over the Pyrenees, and to Zubiri, so the church established the town and monastery here. As the monks departed after a night’s rest and a meal, they were given a care package that included essentials such as a bottle of beer, a bottle of wine…and some other stuff.

      David’s doing better with getting into a routine. What a relief! He still has trouble with knowing where we are and remembering where our things are but at least now he seems a bit more settled. (On our first day of this trip he lost his green beanie and his ATM card, but then he let me carry out passports and money). A big relief for me! I’m so glad we can make this trip together!
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    • Day 3

      Stone for Veronica

      May 6, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      A few weeks back I walked from Dad's to Musselburgh where my Mum was from. I picked up a wee heart shaped stone down at the River Esk and brought it with me. I left it at the statue up the Pyrenees today.Read more

    • Day 6

      Day 2: La Vierge to Roncesvalles, part 1

      May 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

      Miles: 8.5
      Elevation gain: 1,660 feet
      Elevation loss: 2,110 feet
      Weather: cold and windy at the top

      Today started, as the French woman next to me on the shuttle said, with us “walking into the clouds.” I was glad/grateful many times today, most often that it wasn’t raining or snowing. That said, this Oklahoman was pretty cold, especially at the top; with the wind, the relief was exquisite when the trail went low enough or in the lee of one of the mountains.

      Speaking of the shuttle, the driver started the car, and the first thing on the stereo was the opening was the first movement of Beethoven 9. That’s a little heavy, right?

      Anyway, up into the fog. The trail switched from the asphalt road to dirt trails fairly early on, and periods of flatness/slight descent were most welcome. I crossed the border into Spain without fanfare, and then climbed some more. I was very happy to reach the top, Col Lepoeder!

      1. Into the clouds!
      2. Lots of sheep. Apparently raised for the milk and cheese. Carry on!
      3. The beginning of the dirt trail was particularly steep.
      4. Welcome brief descent into the forest.
      5. The France-Spain border. That was it. No wall!
      6. The best lunch so far. I picked up a sandwich in Saint Jean. Crusty bread, cheese, and some sort of cherry jam. Perfect!
      7. Looking back over the Pyrenees
      8. Huge black slugs on the side of the road. They reminded me of alligators sunning themselves on the side of a trail in the Everglades.
      8. The top!
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    • Day 11

      St Jean Pied de Paul to Roncesvalles

      September 14, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      So today was our first day actually walking the Camino.
      26 km with a climb of 1400 meters. It was tough hot and amazing! Easy to say that when we now have had a couple of hours to rest in our quaint hotel with a rose and beer under our belts! We were up at 6am and breakfast at 630 consisting of a baguette jam and a coffee. Hard case proprietor who thought we all crazy and wished us luck as he crossed himself!
      It was dark and cool when we we set off and was a steady and steep climb. But in the words of our Jack you just have to walk at your own medium pace! You just climb into the mist with the noise of cow bells and sheep bells and the odd horse! It reminded me of the land around Wanaka where they filmed Lord of the Rings. The border between France and Spain that we walked through is signified by a cattlestop and an overflowing rubbish bin!
      Onward we slogged meeting all sorts of interesting walkers, a whole contingent of Irish from Galway, a lovely Sth Korean man who wanted a photo of Brian and self! An American couple who now live in Equador in a fishing village and a hard case Welshman who was worried he wouldn't get a beer at the monastery he was staying in! Lots of baby boomers walking and although we got in at 3 pm some were still walking in at 6pm! Beautiful day here and off soon for a pilgrim dinner. So so pleased we have the first day under our belt and in the words of Ed we knocked the bastard off! Buen Camino
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    • Day 5

      Push to Roncessvalles

      April 30, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

      Arguably one of the hardest things I’ve done. We climbed 3 peaks today up to 4700 ft then traversed a decline of about 1600 ft, some parts rocky and slippery and very steep. Todays walk took 5 hours. So proud we made it over the Pyrenees with no injuries!Read more

    • Day 5

      The Pyrennes Mountains

      August 21, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

      Started up From St. Jean on Monday morning in route to Roncevalles Sp. Crossing the Pyrenees was one of the most deliriously scenic ventures I ever had. The mountains were beautiful, but the climb was treacherous. I wanted to stop and go back down the hill several times, but I chose to rub my patch and move on up that hill. Reached Roncevalles with little or no energy left. Well I was able to have dinner with fellow pilgrims before falling into my bunk at the Municipal Albergue. About 5 hundred beds separated by cubicles of 4. 30+ km up hill. Will begin my trek to Zubiri in. the morning.Read more

    • Day 5

      Orisson

      August 20, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      Made it to Orisson, what a challenging day. 8km walked and half way up the Pyrenees mountains. Tomorrow we will tackle the rest. Tonight we had an amazing pilgrims dinner. Also meet a nice fellow in St. Jean who gave us directions 😀

      Also every need water while out walking? The camino provides, hahahaha vending machine on the side of the road.
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    • Day 3

      Perfect first day

      August 2, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Today was such a beautiful day! I got a good nights rest in my private room in Saint Jean and started walking around 7:45. The first part of the walk is stunning with the views of the Pyrenees. I’m glad I have experience hiking because it was a steady incline the whole way. I was worried my pack would be too heavy with water and food added, but thankfully it fits well and the weight sits on my hips the way it’s supposed to. And after MUCH deliberation, I’m very happy to have gone with my hiking shoes. They’re sturdy and my feet don’t feel sore after the first day.

      It’s been pleasant to connect with different pilgrims along the way, share a few words and then gradually drift as our walking paces differ. I look forward to seeing familiar faces along the way.

      Tonight I’m staying at a converted farm house half way up the Pyrenees. There will be a communal pilgrim dinner tonight with the other pilgrims staying the night. I’m feeling excited for the rest of the journey and grateful for all the planning I did to get me here!

      Thank you for all your love and support!
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    • Day 5

      Over the Pyrenees - From France to Spain

      September 4, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Day 2 to Burguete - This was a toughee!! About 14 miles slow uphill to 2500’ climb and then a fast descent. I took the longer route that was a little less steep coming down - still felt it on my knees 😀
      The day before was also 2500’ climb - but in 5 miles and no descent. I much preferred that.
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    • Day 4

      Day 1 - St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

      May 16, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

      Day 1 of walking.
      At a glance:
      Food highlights: Basque almond cake
      Kilometres walked: 7.15 (note 6.9 was all uphill)
      # of steps: 14,272
      Elevation gain: @700 meters

      Weather forecast has been dire with a high of 6 degrees and a low of 3C. And the next day a high of 7!
      Some eager pilgrims were up at 5 tiptoeing around organizing their packs. Twice in the night I heard torrential downpours.
      We doned wool leggings and long sleeved tops, shorts, tshirts, fleece jackets, and rain gear and headed put.
      We found a bar opened and fueled up on croissants and cafe au lait.
      The first hour we got wet from sweating under all those clothes and slowly disrobed which brought on a few sprinkles but nothing serious.
      The second hour we walked into fog. Not long after we found Refuge Auberge Orisson emerging from the fog.
      Basque cake for lunch and then another walk if you can believe it. The sun peeked out and the wind blew the fog away so we walked back 1k to see the view we had missed. Then had a nap and when we woke up to the sun shinning! We have fingers and toes crossed for sun tomorrow.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Saint-Michel, Sant Miguel lo Viello, Eiheralarre, Сен-Мишель, Sent Miquèu, Сен-Мішель, سینٹ-مچل، پیرینیث-اٹلانتیقوس, 圣米舍

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