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An Afternoon StrollAn Afternoon Stroll
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An Afternoon Stroll

juni - september 2023
A walk. Läs mer
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  • ResenärAn Afternoon Stroll

    Biberach an der Riß

    22 juli 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Day 43:
    Distance: 28.95 km (1,413.46 km)
    Steps: 40,878 (2,017,491)
    Move time: 6h20 (312h41)
    Spend: £13.46 (£670.06)

    🇩🇪 Riedlingen to Biberach an der Riß. 🇩🇪

    Today, I was riding a crest. I don't know why, but after taking a slow morning, I was just really feeling it. And following some easy miles, I've stumbled upon highlight of the day; Schützenfest in Biberach. Now, I did know of this festival's existence, but after rolling into town at 19:30, I expected to have missed whatever celebrations might have been going on. But how wrong was I; I could barely believe the scale of the festivities here. There's everything you imagine when you picture a German folk festival: pretzels, rides, even the Lederhosen-wearing waitresses to carry the monster-sized beers. Most of my time has been spent enjoying the free concert; they've gone from playing Blur, to Robbie Williams to "Will Grigg's on fire, your defence is terrified" (no, really). Honestly, England must live rent-free in Germans' heads, because everyone here's been absolutely vibing to it. And as have I, tbf, there's something very amusing to me about being probably the only English person in an environment like this.Läs mer

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  • ResenärAn Afternoon Stroll
    1

    Memmingen

    23 juli 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Day 44:
    Distance: 38.07 km (1,451.53 km)
    Steps: 54,341 (2,071,832)
    Move time: 8h40 (321h21)
    Spend: £0.00 (£670.06)

    🇩🇪 Biberach an der Riß to Memmingen. 🇩🇪

    After sleeping rough following Schützenfest, I awoke to find the odd local grazing the aftermath of the celebrations. And you know what they were doing? I wondered why everyone in Germany loved recycling so much, and I think I've finally figured out why. Somehow, the promise of payment exists for recycling certain items, of which one is clearly glass bottles. And so, with the sunlight still tentative, locals came bumbling about to collect as many glass bottles as they could physically carry. The walking that followed those odd scenes was much more regular to me though, or at least up until the part where it felt like every footstep I placed was pure agony (I don't know why, and I've been toning down the distance lately, but fuck did it hurt). Anyway, I am blessed for the evening as I've had the sheer pleasure of being hosted by Vasile in the Bavarian city of Memmingen. Vasile is a Moldovan who has lived all over the continent and had a whole load of interesting perspectives to discuss, as well as just being a completely sound guy. He helped me out big time too; cooking me dinner, helping me to wash my clothes, and even giving me an extensive tour of the old town.Läs mer

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  • ResenärAn Afternoon Stroll
    2

    Obergünzburg

    24 juli 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 45:
    Distance: 30.19 km (1,481.72 km)
    Steps: 43,013 (2,114,845)
    Move time: 6h42 (328h03)
    Spend: £0.00 (£670.06)

    🇩🇪 Memmingen to Obergünzburg. 🇩🇪

    I've been loving Bavaria so far, with its pretty pastel-coloured assortment of buildings. Even with the consistent waves of hard storms, occasionally interrupted by spells of pure sun, I made my miles to Obergünzburg with relative ease today, stopping only to cut my toenails on a bench outside the famous basilica of Ottobeuren. That's something I love about this trip; it reinforces that there are no real rules in life, only what's expected of you. Want to eat a whole tub of ice cream in public? Alright. Want to sleep in a bush? Sure. How about on a bench? Go for it, mate. Rules can be stupid, and sometimes I find it's just better to think: 'who (or what) am I really affecting negatively by doing this?', and sometimes even 'who's really going to stop me?' Happiness is freedom, and freedom is happiness. Anyway, in Obergünzburg I've been very kindly allowed a place to stay with Tjorven and Ringo, two friendly eighteen year olds. We cooked some delicious traditional German food together and then enjoyed an evening playing frankly an outrageous amount of table tennis. Thanks so much to the both of them and to Tjorven's mum Sarah, who allowed me to stay here even if she couldn't be around herself!Läs mer

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  • ResenärAn Afternoon Stroll

    Nachsee

    25 juli 2023, Tyskland ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Day 46:
    Distance: 32.52 km (1,514.24 km)
    Steps: 45,970 (2,160,815)
    Move time: 7h05 (335h08)
    Spend: £11.69 (£681.75)

    🇩🇪 Obergünzburg to Nachsee. 🇩🇪

    Another fun day. I expected my creep up on the Alps to be a gradual one, at first shielded by gentle foothills increasing in magnitude, but no. One minute I looked up, and all of a sudden there was a giant fucking mountain range staring straight back at me. It was quite a sight to behold; the menacing silhouette of jagged summits jostling on the horizon, and to be honest it was a bit of a shake-of-the-head moment, like 'oh shit, I've just hiked to Alps.' I say that, but I'll never have any amount of self-importance or undue pride over the distance I've hiked; there's always an element of luck involved and by nature of the scale of the distance, it's forever a truly humbling experience. I'll only ever be thankful for the distance I'll have made. Tonight, I'm fortunate enough to be able to stay with Lucia and Tobi; again, two very lovely and welcoming people. But I must admit, they intercepted me on the A-road run in to their house, so unfortunately, the last 3 km or so were driven, as I couldn't exactly say no to their offer of a lift at that moment. So, I'll have to make that extra distance tomorrow as a tourist on foot in Füssen instead.Läs mer

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  • ResenärAn Afternoon Stroll

    Füssen

    26 juli 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Day 47:
    Distance: 19.07 km (1,533,31 km)
    Steps: 27,712 (2,188,527)
    Move time: 4h38 (339h46)
    Spend: £45.59 (£727.34)

    🇩🇪 Nachsee to Füssen. 🇩🇪

    Short day. I made the traipse into Füssen amid more heavy storms and spent the day making some final provisions before heading up into the mountains (i.e., mainly resting). Füssen is a very pretty (and very touristy) little city, and from the hostel here, I met Dina, a Ukrainian with all sorts of fun and crazy stories, and we shared some drinks together out on the balcony. This next section could be where the price goes wayy up and the progress goes wayyy down.Läs mer

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  • ResenärAn Afternoon Stroll

    Brunnenkopfhütte

    27 juli 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 48:
    Distance: 39.37 km (1,572.68 km)
    Steps: 56,682 (2,245,209)
    Move time: 9h29 (349h15)
    Spend: £7.02 (£734.36)
    (↗️ 2,677m; ↘️ 1,892m)

    🇩🇪 Füssen to Brunnenkopfhütte. 🇩🇪

    I fed the calves good and proper with over 4,500 metres of elevation change and almost 40 kilometres of pure alpine trekking today. I don’t even know what else to say, I'm just lucky to have been able to have reached here. It's so beautiful and serene. Another bonus is that after having been a member of Bath Uni Mountaineering Club, I am technically already a member of the British Mountaineering Council, which has already hugely helped in saving money when staying in this mountain hut, which in itself is actually so sick. Almost makes the having to put up with some of the stuck-up climbers worth it, ey?Läs mer

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  • ResenärAn Afternoon Stroll

    Garmisch-Partenkirchen

    28 juli 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Day 49:
    Distance: 30.62 km (1,603.30 km)
    Steps: 43,598 (2,288,807)
    Move time: 6h50 (356h05)
    Spend: £14.60 (£748.96)

    🇩🇪 Brunnenkopfhütte to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. 🇩🇪

    Wow, so much to say about today. I made the steep descent from Brunnenkopfhütte straight back into Linderhof, where I decided to join the other tourists in nosying around King Ludwig's Palace, with its gold gilded rooms exuding opulence; every furnishing adorned with intricate carvings, and lush gardens framed by gentle cascades trickling down the mountainside. Maybe it was just my dismay at having to hear other native English speakers again on the tour, but I don't know how you could ever admire someone like that, someone whose image is so shallow and desires clearly so material, and almost undoubtedly at the detriment to pretty much everyone else around them too. Regardless, I got back stomping for the day, this time back to the foot of the mountains on my way into Garmisch-Partenkirchen. And turning into this valley, oh my. A vast vista unfolded before my eyes, with Zugspitze standing in silent grandeur, exposing its crisp, sheer limestone walls. The alpine backdrop only grew on my approach, too, revealing the *big* Alps of Austria, provoking as much intrigue as they do intimidation. But finally, upon my arrival, I've been fortunate enough to stay with Chris, a top top guy who's lived such an interesting life. He's lived in Germany, Burundi, Pakistan, Botswana; he once even took public transport from Munich to India, but most importantly, he's unbelievably kind and he helped me when he really didn't have to. The help I've received all throughout Germany has honestly been incredible, and I couldn't be more grateful for these experiences.Läs mer

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  • ResenärAn Afternoon Stroll

    Klais

    29 juli 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Day 50:
    Distance: 25.25 km (1,628.55 km)
    Steps: 35,725 (2,324,532)
    Move time: 5h46 (361h52)
    Spend: £20.30 (£769.26)

    🇩🇪 Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Klais. 🇩🇪

    The distance won't look very impressive on the map today. But then again, success isn't always measured in miles trodden (even if I finally clocked in my first thousand). In fact, it's hard to really say what success means for a mission like this. To me, it comes back to asking myself the meaning of happiness and fulfilment; and I think part of that is overcoming the challenges that befall you any day. Sometimes, it can just be not throwing in the hat. So, while today should've been my final in Germany, I also think, hey, who cares; I'll still end up where I intend to tomorrow night. To explain more, essentially, the heavens opened with full vigour this afternoon, pelting down torrents of rain that'd leave you gasping for air. The type that, if subjected to up the wrong mountain, you'd probably be thankful to get out with your life intact. The next couple of weeks could be a real challenge on that note, with more juicy storms due in for as far as the forecast even extends. My situation is as follows: I find myself in the Alps during peak season, entering an expensive, touristy country with strict enforced anti-wild camping laws, the worst possible weather, not a single plan, and yet the only place to go is upwards, at the very least via some mountain pass. Whatever happens, it's sure to be interesting. Let's rewind a bit though. This morning was a delight to be able to eat breakfast with Chris and his family, for which it's hard to express my thanks for the authenticity and enjoyment it adds to my journey to be able to share with people as great as those which I’ve met in Germany. Leaving my rucksack behind to start the day, the photos you see are mostly from my detour to the drama of Partnachklamm, itself truly an exhibit of art in nature, spewing and spraying its carved passage through a deep ravine. My writing is dragging on a bit here, but following that, I then endeavoured on something of a wild goose chase to find some more gas for my jetboil (which has actually been without fuel for about 2 weeks straight somehow, literally I don't even know what I've been eating), and now I'm seeing out the night and the downpour hidden in a shelter in a children's playpark lol.Läs mer

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  • ResenärAn Afternoon Stroll
    1

    Falkenhütte

    30 juli 2023, österrike ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Day 51:
    Distance: 39.01 km (1,667.56 km)
    Steps: 56,163 (2,380,695)
    Move time: 9h03 (370h55)
    Spend: £13.16 (£782.42)

    🇩🇪 Klais to Falkenhütte. 🇦🇹

    Following my night crammed into a shelter of a children's playpark, I made up the distance lost to yesterday's storms in the early stillness of the German Sunday morning. When I crossed over the border at Scharnitz, I hope for a giant 'Welcome to Austria!' sign or something, but no; for some reason, those just don't seem to exist other than for drivers on the motorway, sadly. But hey, country number 6! I had a little celebration with me, myself, and a bottle of exotic alcohol bought yesterday from some German supermarket (yes, even at 9 am!). And with the call of Austria came the call of the Via Alpina, which is a vast hiking megaroute traversing the Alps all the way from Monaco to Trieste (near Croatia). Now, obviously, I won't be walking all of that, but to enjoy the towering Austrian scenery, a few stages here and there certainly won't go amiss, even with the troublesome waves of rain that persisted today. These mountains are known as the Karwendel mountains, and they are simply beautiful; I mean, when the lingering mist eventually dispersed, the enchanting Laliderer wall came into full view, dominating over the deep valley.Läs mer

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  • ResenärAn Afternoon Stroll

    Jenbach

    31 juli 2023, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 52:
    Distance: 32.03 km (1,699.59 km)
    Steps: 45,266 (2,425,961)
    Move time: 7h07 (378h02)
    Spend: £35.07 (£817.49)

    🇦🇹 Falkenhütte to Jenbach. 🇦🇹

    A day of such high highs, and such low lows, and roughly correlating with altitude. The view from the mountain hut dormitory this morning was unbelievably beautiful, and despite probably being the last person to set off for the day out of laziness, I made the arduous ascent up to Lamsenjochhütte in good time, while soaking in the absolute glory of the serene mountain scenery. At the hut, I even stopped to allow myself a beer: a wise decision before taking on the 1,500 metre descent slightly tipsy. These Alps and Austria have already been such a huge highlight, though. It was only when I stopped for a break nearing the valley floor that the euphoria wore off, and upon taking off my boots, I saw the damage done to my feet. My toes red raw and feet agonisingly sore, I could barely shuffle any further. Luckily, I just about made it to Jenbach through gritted teeth, where I managed to catch a bus a kilometre or two onto this campsite in Wiesing. I'm not usually one to believe in fate or the alike, but sometimes I think that if you need something badly enough, it'll find you in your hour of need. So low and behold, I unknowingly arrived here at 18:27, before reception closed at 18:30, and they found me a small corner to pitch my tent for some desperately needed rest. Tomorrow will also likely be a rest day.Läs mer

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