Grundarfjörður

We travelled across the northern fjords today, taking in the sights and sounds as we made our way to the Snæfellsness Peninsula - affectionately called Snuffeluppagus. It's a pretty drive in and around the fjords with lush green lands full of Icelandic ponies and variously coloured sheep. We took the road less travelled and tried to save some time, landing ourselves on an unexpected 65 kms of dirt road for almost an hour! Samara drove today and it was an arduous journey for her, if I say so. Our fellow drivers were not as courteous in making way or slowing down along this road but the sheer and slippery drops on our right (my side of the car!!) caused us some cardiac concern.
We made a worthwhile stop at one of the oldest stone churches in Iceland, Thingeyrar (spelt with a funny P). In 1106, the bishop of the time pledged to build a stone church if God would relieve a famine in the area. Good 'ol God did so and Thingeyrar (with the funny p) took shape. Founded on 1133, it existed until the reformation in 1550. The present church was rebuilt and consecrated in 1877. It's known for the thousand (give it take) golden stars on its blue ceiling.
On the way out, we both patted and spoke with some Icelandic horses. Samara was happy!
We literally only had to cross the road to see the Vatnsdalsholar, a cluster of hills of various sizes across the Vatnsdalur Valley. These were thought to have been the result of a catastrophic landslide in the area. It must have been a huge one as there were no mountains within coo-ee of the hills so we have no idea how the mounds of rubble really got there. The view from the top of one of the hills was spectacular though and worth the climb.
Vikings started coming to Iceland in around 874, give or take, and there are various stories of their presence here. For the most part, though, the local Vikings were farmers and did a bit of raiding and pillaging in the off season. Erik the Red (probably named for his red hair rather than the blood he spilled) was famous for a number of reasons around here and we spent some time at the ruins, and in a very precise replica, of his family longhouse. Erik did cause some concern locally, arguing with and killing a neighbour (more than once … the neighbour killing, not the same neighbour) and ended up being exiled for 3 years. He took his family and a boat and ended up in the, so far undiscovered, island to the north. He called this Greenland and he is credited with its discovery. He called it Greenland so it would sound attractive and draw Icelandic immigrants there, over whom he would rule and became their chieftain. He later returned to Iceland, murdered a few other neighbours, then left for Greenland forever. His son, Leif Eriksson (later known as Leif the Lucky) went on to become a seafarer as well and became the first European to set foot in North America (not Chris Columbus!) We spent a very pleasant hour with a local guide who taught us heaps! We even tried on a chain mail helmet. Fun fact: only 25 Viking swords have ever been discovered in Iceland. It is thought that many were simply smeltered down into farm ploughs when the raiding and pillaging was over. Talk about recycling at its best!!
An interesting fact about the Icelandic longhouses is that their turf (on the roof and walls) was laid in a herringbone pattern rather than with one slab on top of the other. Not only was this aesthetic, it helped keep the turf in place during the wind and stormy seasons. Clever!
We passed through a couple of little fishing villages and climbed the viewpoint at Stykkishólmur. The seas in the fjord were calm, full of bird life and spotted with islands. It was a lovely final stop if the day. Czytaj więcej