St. James, the Greater

What a glorious day

For the last day of our Camino we again woke up at 5:00 am, and started our preparations. We again slept well in a wonderful albergue. It cost all of 15€. Our preparations have become somewhat routine over the last ten days. Can’t imagine why.

But today was different. We were confident and felt strong and prepared. As I put on the Armor of God (my pants, my shirt, my bandages, glasses, hat and sandals) the reality that this day was the pinnacle of what has become a five year journey began to sink in.

Instead of one cup of caffe con leche, we had two and a little time to talk. Instead of toast with jam, we had leftover pizza. We knew this day was going to be different. We were confident.

Before we left, we prayed. Claudia said a beautiful prayer for us and our fellow Pilgrims, and for the opportunity to complete the Camino.

As we began our walk we decided to take our pace a little slower. It was a short 5 miles. Over the course of the last ten days we averaged between 2.5-2.7 mph moving pace. Today, we averaged 2.9mph. Smoked it. Apparently the adrenaline kicked in.

On our way I was taking pictures of the way marks counting down those last 7.7 km, waiting to be able to take a picture of the one that has 0,000 km. That didn’t happen because that particular way mark is at Finisterre, the end of the known world through the 15th century. You, know “In 1492 when Columbus sailed the ocean blue.” So, no 0,000. At least not yet.

We also reached a high point on the trail and were able to take a picture of the Cathedral from a distance in the sunrise. We took pictures of a mural and items Pilgrims had left on the last day of their Camino. Claudia left a small bag of items given to her by some friends.

Most of the last 2km was through an urban part of Santiago, but it is obvious when you cross into the old town onto the cobblestone granite roads and off the pavement. We could see the towers of the Cathedral. We decided to walk around the Cathedral and through a tunnel to get to the main square.

Oh my God!!

We finally walked up the steps and found ourselves in the square facing the front of the Cathedral. We had completed our Camino. We took as much time as we wanted to soak up the moment that will last a life time. We were very early and had the square almost completely to ourselves. We were able to take pictures with just us standing in front of the Cathedral.

Claudia had said on her first Camino, the Cathedral had scaffolding all around it because they were cleaning it. There was no scaffolding this time and it looks beautiful. You can see all the details, including the shell on St. James’ hat way up high. We watched the sunrise come up behind the Cathedral and between the towers. It was breathtaking.

After soaking up the moment, we began to look for the Pilgrim office to request our Compostela. It’s down the steps, around the corner and behind the Cathedral. We wanted to get there early before people started pouring in. We were the 6th and 7th Pilgrims in line. No problem. It and our other paperwork are now safely in a tube guarded like we guard our passports. Because we were in the first 10 Pilgrims to obtain the Compostela we were offered a free lunch at a restaurant - Enexbre right on the square in a hotel.

Once we finished, we of course went back up to the square. By then it was getting more and more crowded with Pilgrims. Amazingly, out of all the Pilgrims there, we started seeing many of the Pilgrims we had met and become friends with over the last ten days and there were lots of hugs and greetings. It was incredible to see that many Pilgrims coming in, but we did like our private moment with each other and God when we arrived.

Later that morning, we had the opportunity to walk into the Cathedral and oh my was it amazing. To see the inside of a world famous Cathedral built in the 10th Century is something I will never forget.

Underground and beneath the alter we finally had the opportunity to experience the existence of the bones of St. James. They are contained in a closed coffin, and represent one of the few, maybe only(?), relics from the 1st Century. It was a very moving experience.

Every day at noon they have a Pilgrim’s mass in the Cathedral. We sat down about 10:45 to insure we had one. About 11:30, they asked everyone not staying for the service to leave. The doors are closed and no visitation occurs until after the service. The service itself was good. We managed to follow it more or less because it is the same as our liturgy, even though it was in Spanish.

The bonus came at the end. They have a huge “botafumeria” that is filled with incense and used only if a Pilgrim donated the required amount. We’ve heard 200-300€, but don’t know. Well someone did and it was quite the show watching six priests pull the rope in unison swinging it from side to side probably out close to 50 feet.

We had also made arrangements with our friends from Ireland to meet for lunch after the service before we got our free lunch. Out on the square we found them and thought they could join us. So, we went to Enexbre to find out. The answer was not no, but hell no. And we were 15 minutes late and lost our free lunch. The ticket said our table would be ready at 1:45. That meant 1:00.

So, we went to the restaurant our friends reserved and had a grand time. Whiskey, wine, pimientos de Padron, prawns, paella with lobster and chocolate for dessert. Lots more hugs and good wishes. We exchanged information and invitations to each other’s country/state and said farewell.

We checked into our hotel which was a 2 minute walk from the Cathedral and took a nap.

Fortunately, we were not done for the day.

5 miles/ 20,000 stepsRead more