Ireland
Abbey Theatre

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    • Day 95

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 30

      July 17, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Today is bonus day 2 in Dublin, and it was pretty low key for us despite the frenetic hurling fans' in the city. We started the day with a delicious breakfast in the hotel. Jim C opted to get a haircut, and I mostly relaxed in our hotel room. I didn't particularly sleep well as the revelers were quite loud into the wee hours of the morning, and the air was a bit warm and still.

      I wanted to find the Molly Malone statue as it reminded me of my elementary teacher leading us in songs from other countries. It's interesting how I might not remember someone's name from six months ago, but I can belt out the lyrics of Molly Malone, English Country Garden, Waltzing Matilda and visualize my teachers leading us in song.

      Molly, as portrayed by the sculptor, could also be in competition with Dolly Parton for her well-endowed bosom. I noticed the amusement of other tourists as well while we were taking photos.

      Right next to Molly was a painting of a downtrodden man with a despairing poem. It reminded me of the panhandlers who we have seen on the streets. With rare exception they have been exceedingly polite and offering well wishes despite my declining response. I'm reminded of our privilege and the need to do more to support those who need our help.

      We stopped for lunch at a nearby Thai restaurant that was quite good, and then we started working our way back to the hotel. On the way, we passed the Irish Rock Hall of Fame, and we approached the famous Temple Bar. We decided to stop for a drink. The bar has many lively rooms with considerable memorabilia. In a nearby room, two local singers were singing traditional Irish songs, but then switched to "Sweet Caroline" with the obligatory crowd sing- shouting "BAH BAH BAH!!!!"

      I'm glad that we stopped in the Temple Bar. On one level, we've resisted the urge to visit the "you must go see" places life the Guinness warehouse or the Jameson Distillery or the Titanic Museum in Belfast. We were pleasantly surprised by the experience. While we were at the bar, Limerick squeezed out an all Ireland hurling championship and there are many happy fans in green shirts mixed with the black and yellow clad fans rooting for Kilkenny's losing team.

      We ended the day with a Zoom call back home with one of our community groups. The call reminded me how much we miss these people.They are among our treasured friends and we are excited to see them.

      We are enjoying a quiet night with the exception of the bar across the street belting out a traditional Irish song loop. I should have them memorized soon. We have discovered that Irish songs have a bit of a formulaic structure to them. I might write one of my own dedicated to British Airways. Best to you all from Dublin.
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    • Day 96

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 31

      July 18, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      And we made it to Dublin Bonus Day 3. In theory, we will be home tomorrow at 5 pm PDT if the travel gods are aligned.

      One of the many things that I appreciate about our relationship is the willingness to take separate adventures. Today Jim took the train to Howth, a picturesque coastal fishing village that draws tourists to the area. He remarked that the area reminded him of Cape Elizabeth,ME, the affluent coastal community that is home to the Portland Head Light. I chose to walk to Glasnevin Cemetery, the final resting place of many important historical figures ranging from key revolutionaries, labor leaders, Suffragettes, artists and sports heroes.

      At the center of the cemetery is O'Connell Tower named for Daniel O'Connell was famous for helping Catholics to win the right to become members of Parliament in the UK. Irish person who lived during the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century. He also wanted Ireland to have its own parliament. He became known as the “Liberator” because he advicated for Irish people's rights.

      I hesitated before considering going up the 198-step journey to the top of the tower. I was intrigued that the start of the journey began in O'Connell's crypt. His resting place was housed in an ornate sarcophagus. I was encouraged to touch his casket which is said to bring good luck. Guess what I wished for?

      There were two aspects of the crypt that I found a bit amusing: O'Connell purportedly said, " My body in Dublin, my heart in Paris (where he died), my soul in Heaven." People weren't certain if O'Connor's reference to "...his heart in Paris" was literal or figurative. They went with the former. Also, O'Connell's family members are also interred in the crypt. This sounds more elegant than it is; it looked more like a Jenga pile of caskets in a storage closet.

      I do consider it a moral victory that I made it to the tower. I'm deathly afraid of heights,an apt description given my launching point. The 360-degree view was spectacular.

      After I left the tower I went see the gravesite of Michael Collins, an Irish revolutionary, soldier and politician who was a central figure in Ireland's fight for independence in the early 1900's. He was assassinated at the age of 31 in an ambush.

      There are many other important leaders laid to rest in this cemetery. I was moved by a tribute to, Michael Carey, the first person buried here who died of tuberculosis at the age of 11.

      I did make it a point to visit the site of James "Big Jim" Larkin who was a famous labor leader in Ireland's history. There is also a statue of him near our hotel with this inscription:

      "The great appear great because we are on our knees. Let us rise!"

      I made it back to the hotel in time to join a new acquaintance and his friend for coffee. I really enjoyed our conversation and shared experiences.

      Jim and I prepared for our trip home again, and we again joined our friend Frank from the Portland Gay Men's Chorus for dinner. We has a great conversation, a nightcap at a nearby pub, and we settled in for what we hope will be an uneventful trip home.

      It's been an incredible journey. Thank you for joining us.
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    • Day 1

      Döblin here we come!

      September 9, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Gestern war es endlich soweit! Wir sind in die langersehnten Ferien aufgebrochen. Langersehnt wortwörtlich: seit wir vor 15 Jahren in Schottland waren sprechen wir davon, dass wir zurück möchten. Aber zuerst bereisen wir Irland - auf gehts!

      Zur Reise selbst gibts nicht viel zu sagen, lief alles super "smooth". Gab nur kurz einen kleinen Schocker nachdem wir uns in unseren Sitz im Flugzeug gequetscht haben: 'es gäbe Probleme mit den Startslots und wir würden jetzt mal einfach eine Stunde hier rumstehn, wir sollten es uns gemütlich machen'..... fünf Minuten später sind wir abgeflogen. Humor des Käptains? Missverständnis? Egal, hauptsache es lief alles nach Plan.

      In Dublin angekommen sind wir relativ zügig in unser überteuertes, dafür zentrales Hotel, welches seine besten Zeiten wohl vor 50 Jahren hatte. Dafür ist die Empfangsdame wie eine Manifestation direkt aus "Little Britain". Sie spricht mit völlig übertriebenem, überfreuntlichem Singsang in der Stimme. Währenddessen 'lächelt' sie konstant und zeigt dabei ihre übergrossen, vergilbten Zähne. Und wenn sie sich bewegt, dann wirkt es wobellig, fluid und spastig zugleich. Wir sind überzeugt: die Aliens weilen unter uns.

      Da Reisen immer anstrengend ist für uns, haben wir uns entschieden den Nachmittag mit klassischem Touri-Programm zu verbringen: Shopping, Guiness-Storehousetour und Abendessen im Brazen Head, dem ältesen Pub Dublins (gegründet elfhundertirgendwas). Highlight war auf jeden Fall das Guiness, welches wir auf unserer Tour durchs Storehouse tranken: unser Foto auf dem Schaum! Wie geil ist das denn?

      Braucht das die Welt? Ja unbedingt!
      Wie wirds gemacht? Magie. Definitiv Magie. Scheint, dass MJ ihren Dumbledore Zauberstab nicht vergebens mitgebracht hab 😏
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    • Day 2

      Teatime im Park

      September 10, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Die Lady im Laden hatte uns tags zuvor bereits freudig mitgeteilt, dass der heutige Tag wettertechnisch das Highlight der Woche darstellen würde. Also planten wir für Aussen-Aktivitäten. Mehr dazu gleich. 

      Wir starteten den Tag mit deftigem Frühstück. Zwar kein „Irish Breakfast“ aber doch Egg Benedict und Avocado-Toast. Kurz darauf düsten wir mit der Tramlinie in Richtung Phoenix Park, dem grössten städtischen Park in Europa. Zweimal Central Park hatten darin Platz. Entsprechend hatten wir keine Lust auf Laufen, also kurz die App für Sharing-Bikes runtergeladen und losgeradelt. Highlight: Freilaufende Hirsche im Park. Ohhhhh. Zudem  sahen wir das erste Mal im Leben ein Poloturnier (keine Zuschauer, der Sport scheint auf dem Absteigenden Ast), tranken Green Tee und assen Scones mit Marmelade (die zur Hälfte auf dem Boden landete). 

      Dann wieder ins Zentrum, und weil wir heute einen lockeren Tag wollten, entschieden wir uns für eine Hop-on-hop-off-Bustour. Und diese war für einmal riiiiichtig gut. Das lag vor allem am Dubliner Turguide Ross, der live kommentierte - und das sehr unterhaltsam. Gewusst? Die offizielle Farbe von Irland ist blau und nicht grün; Vikinger gründeten die Siedlung Dublin; es reden mehr Menschen Polnisch als Irisch in Irland; und Mahlzeiten in Pubs sind eine relativ junge Zeiterscheinung. Aha!

      Noch was Interessantes: Die Iren spinnen voll auf den US-Countrysänger Garth Brooks. Der ist sowas wie ein Heiliger hier. Und gerade jetzt gibt er in Dublin fünf Konzerte, an denen 400’000 Menschen insgesamt dabei sind. Cowboyhüte überall. Ich meine: Überall! So viel zu irischen Klischees…

      Um das auszugleichen, tranken wir gleich zwei Guiness. Prost. 
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    • Day 5

      Dublino

      November 10, 2023 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

      Irlanda
      Il St. Patrick's Day è la festa più importante dell'anno in Irlanda e tutta l'isola e la capitale si animano con festeggiamenti, concerti, parate, fuochi d'artificio e tantissimo divertimento.

      Quando si legge la parola whisky, bisogna tener presente che è usata in generale per indicare i prodotti distillati in Scozia e in Canada. Quando invece si incontra la parola whiskey bisogna pensare ai distillati provenienti dall’Irlanda e dagli Stati Uniti.

      il cui significato letterale è acqua di vita. Il termine aqua vitae risale al latino e indica l’alcol distillato

      Le prime distillazioni di whisky, vengono fatte risalire alla tradizione di San Patrizio, santo protettore dei monaci e dell’Irlanda, anche se non si possiedono documenti che accertino con sicurezza l’origine irlandese della bevanda. Il primo riferimento all’aqua vitae è stato rinvenuto in Scozia ed è datato 1494.
      In un documento si fa riferimento a una quantità di malto indirizzata a John Corr, frate scozzese che produceva aqua vitae per la tradizionale festa di San Patrizio.
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    • Day 94

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 29

      July 16, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Today was "bonus" day 1 in Dublin. When we woke up, my first thought was "we should be on our flight home right now". It was a fleeting thought though as we planned for the day. We started the day with a great breakfast in a nearby café as our hosts were entranced with a rugby game with Ireland as a finalist (they won).

      It was one of the few sunny days that we've had in Ireland, and it was absolutely spectacular. We had booked a hotel about a mile and a half away and we decided to just walk with our backpacks. When Jim first proposed that we only take two backpacks on this trip, I was skeptical. Since then, every time I have seen tourists lugging roller bags over cobblestones, I'm grateful for his wisdom. It's also been great for my strength and endurance. Walking has definitely become a healthy habit, and I have enjoyed our walling adventures-definitely a gift of our European travels.

      We said good-bye to our hosts, Peter and Jarek. They really were delightful, and we appreciated our stay with them. We made our way over to Wynn's Hotel, a stately older property across the river in Dublin. The desk receptionist found us an available room for an early check in, and she handed us a key with an attached weight that reminded me of sinkers used in deep-sea fishing. She advised us that it might be prudent to leave the key at the property when venturing out rather than carrying the key. We checked into our room which is spacious and comfortable.

      We learned that there is a premium fee was added to the room as Dublin is hosting the hurling finals on Sunday. At the risk of being gross, I do have to admit that every time Ireland boasts its affinity for hurling, my warped mind goes to the slang definition "Well, of course it is, given Ireland's stereotypical reputation for heavy drinking." Hurling is an ancient Gaelic outdoor sport resembling Gaelic football. The closest thing I can otherwise think of is lacrosse although the sport seems pretty fierce like rugby.

      One fun fact that I learned: The game has been described as "a bastion of humility", with player names absent from jerseys and a player's number decided by his position on the field.

      A local acquaintance also told us of the legend of the "Mayo (county) curse:

      "According to this much-disputed story, a priest put a curse on Mayo football after the lorry transporting the victorious ’51 players failed to pay proper respects to a funeral cortege in Foxford. Supposedly the priest decreed that Mayo would not win another All-Ireland until all members of the team had gone to their eternal rest." The last player passed last September at the age of 95. I'm not sure how Mayo fared during the season, but we thought it was a funny story.

      Meanwhile sports fans will be out in force today as they root for Limerick and Kilkenny. I guess I have to root for Limerick given my ancestral ties.

      We learned that there was going to be a Trans/Intersex March in Dublin during the afternoon. We thought we would go watch the march as a show of solidarity and alignment with my Q Center volunteer work back home. John, an online acquaintance told us that he was planning to March so we decided to join him.

      While we were waiting for the march to begin, I talked with some of the organizers. One organizer was attached to the international Socialist party, and when he learned that we were from the Pacific Northwest, he asked if we knew Kshama Sawant. I told him that I knew her, and that we have voted for her once on the City Council, but we didn't support her in the subsequent term. We had a good conversation about activism. I shared with him that I appreciated the topics that she raised, particularly the fight for increasing the minimum wage, but that attacking perceived opponents was not a winning strategy if you can't build a winning coalition.

      We appreciated the opportunity to march, particularly as a show of support for members of our community who are severely marginalized. We also have missed Pride celebrations back home as well as across Europe. This felt like a grounding opportunity.

      One of the landmarks of the neighborhood where we're staying in a large stainless steel spire that reaches 121 meters in height. I learned that this spire was built at the former site of the Horatio Nelson pillar which was bombed by the IRA in the mid '60's. When we asked John about the purpose of the spire, he remarked that no one seemed to know and that the only cool feature was when they made it look like a Star Wars light saber. I have decided to rename the momunent "The No Point Pointed Needle". (Space Needle seemes to have been claimed.)

      We ended the evening with a spectacular Itakian dinner, the best we've had since our time in Italy. Despite our disappointment in not being home, I do think that we managed to make limoncello from lemons.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Abbey Theatre, مسرح آبى, Abbey teatrı, Тэатр Абацтва, Amharclann na Mainistreach, Theatr yr Abaty, Θέατρο Άμπι, תיאטרון אבי, Kazalište Abbey, アベイ座, Аббат театры, 애비 극장, അബി തിയെറ്റർ, Театр Аббатства, Abbey Tiyatrosu, 艾比剧院

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