Basilica bb. Abdonis et Sennis (former church on top of the Catacomb of Pontian)

My Air B&B host was so kind to meet me at my arrival at 1am to let me in and show me around. She knew no English and spoke quickly, I understood some of her directions because of my Spanish but asked her to repeat a few things into my Google translator and she assured me her daughter would be available in the future.
The space is in the MonteVerde neighborhood(location of this entry), a Southern portion of Travestere. It's quiet and quaint and the details of the apartment are spectacular; vintage books and artwork decorating the space, the giant iron door, the bed high up in a loft, a wooden armoire for my clothes, a jet tub style bath in a washroom FULL of mirrors and a shared/private garden.
1st order of business- massage! 3weeks of yoga and travel had me so tightly wound, it was all I could think about. I couldn't have gotten luckier either, I found the most talented and intuitive masseuse at Centro Agapi.
Afterwards I had quite the appetite and went to Mercato Testaccio, a local area filled with stalls of different to-go foods including cafes, bars and other shopping. My eyes were definitely bigger than my stomach because I ordered 4 Suppli along with a fried zucchini flower and a batch of Ascolana (fried olives). After eating as much as I could, washed down by a decaf espresso, I was ready to walk it off. I was please with the bustling streets of fast Italian speakers and some guys blasting a boom box (video).
The closest historical site to me that I was interested in was Temple Hercules Victor, maybe the oldest building in Rome. Plus, I love Hercules:) It was a lovely walk down along the Tiber River to it too! The cobblestone streets were certainly not friendly to my feet though so I gave up after a mile and hopped on a bird scooter for the rest of the way which honestly terrified me on my first day. But it wasn't long to my destination and once there, I stayed in the square block to walk some amazing sights in the center of the city.
19year old Portia, the art history major (unfinished) came to the surface and I melted into the details of architecture of my once favorite sites;

Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin: famous for the 'Mouth of Truth' (shown in the movie, Roman Holiday). I glanced at it but didn't care for the line of 50+people to take a photo. I chose instead to walk inside and awe at my first Roman church. It was breathtaking and I was pulled by both the coolness of its stone walls and the preciousness of its space to have some meditation time in one of it's many halls.

Teatro Marcello- slightly smaller than but just as impressive as The Colosseum. Began by Julius Caesar and finished by Augustus and finally used in 17BC. People today are free to roam the ruins and get very close to the architecture. These grounds were very impressive and I found to be more fascinating as it was built in 13BC and became a model for the rest of Roman theaters including The Colleseum.

Portico al Foro Olitorio
I can't believe this monumental peice is just standing over the sidewalks of one of Romes main squares. Built in 196BC, as the entryway gate of Triumphant processions such as funerals of emperors or victorious returns from wars.
It felt magical to walk through and around (video). This archway is to me, THE symbol of Romes greatness.

These were my favorites but there was so much to see in between, not a nook or alleyway is without ancient history. There were countless churches and fountains I passed along the way, stopping to drink in their details.

To get home on my first day, I found an electric bike to rent and made my way across the Ponte Garibaldi & thru the cobblestone streets of Travestere.
I needed to rest my weary bones and rinse my sweaty body but afterwards, I walked to dinner at MaxiMum and had myself my most anticipated meal: Pasta Carbonara with a side of Zucchini and Tiramisu to finish! With wine, of course. The walk home was lovely- the weather, the people bustling the streets and the buildings at night ❤️Read more