Santa Maria del Popolo

We continued walking through the Piazza del Popolo, Rome’s landmark square in front of the city’s northern gate. This was the traveller’s first view of Rome upon arrival. For centuries it was a place for public executions, the last of which took place in 1826. Surrounding the piazza are three churches, two fountains and a portico, with an Egyptian obelisk in the centre.

Surprisingly we only visited one of the churches, Basilica Parrocchiale Santa Maria del Popolo. Dating back to 1099, the church was a popular burial site for the aristocracy, clergy and literati, and was built on top of Nero’s grave. There are many tombstones set in the floor of the church, though many are now illegible from centuries of being walked on. It has a much darker appearance then the church we visited earlier, and it had some interesting features.

This is a church of superstition and history. A walnut tree had grown right above the tomb of the notorious Emperor Nero, who ruthlessly persecuted Christians, and locals feared the area and considered it to be infested with demonic spirits evoked by Nero. Pope Pasquale II ordered the tree cut down to make room for a church in attempt to override the area’s terrible history. I do love the stories associated with these ancient sites.En savoir plus