Italy
Santa Maria della Vittoria

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    • Day 36

      Santa Maria della Vittoria

      May 27, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Doug was able to get to this church which was missed on our last trip due to the thunderstorms on the day planned. This is considered the best example of Baroque church design. Saint Mary of Victory, was built from 1608 to 1620, as a chapel dedicated to Saint Paul for the Discalced Carmelites. After the Catholic victory at the battle of White Mountain in 1620, which was attributed to a miracle of the enemy blinded by light from the Chaplain's medallion, the church was rededicated to the Virgin Mary and fundraising allowed for a much more elaborate design. When the Borghese Hermaphroditus was discovered in the excavations, Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V, appropriated this sculpture and in return, funded the work on the façade and lent his architect.

      The vault was frescoed in 1675 with triumphant themes within shaped compartments with feigned frames: The Virgin Mary Triumphing over Heresy and Fall of the Rebel Angels executed by Giovanni Domenico Cerrini in 1675.

      The masterpiece here is Ecstasy of St. Teresa by Scipione's favored sculptor, Bernini. The statues depict a moment as described by Saint Teresa of Avila in her autobiography, where she had the vivid vision of a Seraph piercing her heart with a golden shaft, causing her both immense joy and pain. The flowing robes and contorted posture abandon classical restraint and repose to depict a more passionate, almost voluptuous trance. to much controversy among Italian versions of the Puritans.
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    • Day 29

      Return to Rome

      May 12, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Ship docked in Civitaveccia we had a Glimpse of Rome tour with transfer to the airport. We are actually staying in an airport hotel and flying the next day so we thought we may have time to visit St Peter's Basilica and the Vatican in the afternoon. The bus tour took us past a few things we did not see before such as Circus Maximus (think Ben Hur and the chariot racing), Palantine Hill and Roman Forum plus Republic Square with its impressive large building. We didn't get any photos of these though because to much reflection from the bus windows. Actually, the main reason was because the camera was at the bottom of the backpack and too hard to get out.

      We did stop at St Paul's Basilica which is smaller but is still the largest church I've ever been in - very ornate, very impressive. It's a good thing we stopped here because as it turned out we never did get to see the Vatican (except from the outside). By the time we got to our hotel it was 2pm and to get back into Rome and queue up we did not think we would make it. Maybe it is something we will have to aim for in the future (or maybe not!?!)
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    • Day 47

      Browning pieces

      December 13, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

      I asked the hotel receptionist what three things not on the main tourist route she would recommend seeing, and the first thing she said was to see the mosaics in the Basilica of Saint Praxedes, (Santa Prassede,) so off I went to find it.
      Along the way I passed a nice green park with plastic bags covering the grass. Nothing to remark on except that the municipal groundsman was carefully going over the area on a ride-on mower, leaving plastic confetti everywhere.
      Eventually, on a narrow lane adjacent to Santa Maria Maggiore, I found the unsigned entrance on the side of the church that was commissioned by Pope Hadrian I c. 780 to house the bones of St Praxedes and St Pudentiana; and built on top of the remains of a 5th-century structure.
      + The famous mosaics, Byzantine, years 817-824, cover the funerary Chapel of Saint Zeno that Pope Paschal built for his mother, Theodora.
      + The main altarpiece is a canvas of St Praxedes Gathering the Blood of the Martyrs (c. 1730-35) by Domenico Muratori.
      + Allegedly, this segment of the pillar upon which Jesus was flogged and tortured before his crucifixion in Jerusalem was retrieved from the Holy Land in the early 4thC by the 80 year old mother of the Roman Emperor Constantine I. She also found a surprising number of other authentic artifacts, such as pieces of the True Cross, which no doubt Con found useful when establishing his new state religion.
      PS Remember Robert Browning?
      https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poems/43746/th…
      This is the church that evidently inspired him. If you understand the poem, keep it to yourself.
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    • Day 48

      Transverberation or just fun

      December 14, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

      The second item on the young receptionist's list was in the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria.
      + Probably the finest statue in the world IMHO, the Transverberation of Saint Teresa was sculpted by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in 1652 and depicts an episode of angelic shafting as described by Teresa of Avila, a mystical cloistered Discalced Carmelite nun, in her autobiography, 'The Life of Teresa of Jesus' (1515–1582):
      "I saw in his hand a long spear of gold, and at the iron's point there seemed to be a little fire. He appeared to me to be thrusting it at times into my heart, and to pierce my very entrails; when he drew it out, he seemed to draw them out also, and to leave me all on fire with a great love of God. The pain was so great, that it made me moan; and yet so surpassing was the sweetness of this excessive pain, that I could not wish to be rid of it. The soul is satisfied now with nothing less than God. The pain is not bodily, but spiritual; though the body has its share in it. It is a caressing of love so sweet which now takes place between the soul and God, that I pray God of His goodness to make him experience it who may think that I am lying."
      + Bernini's work struck me as the finer, but there are many more expert than I am who reckon that Michelangelo's Moses in the church of San Pietro in Vincoli, is the best.
      The 1513 statue shows Moses sitting with the Tablets of the Law under his arm, while his other hand fondles his long beard, which according to Vasari was carved with such perfection that it seems more a "work of brush than chisel". Moses is angry having found the Israelites worshiping a golden calf, and seems to be on the verge of getting up and destroying everything. An anger which is perfectly conveyed in marble by the swollen veins and tensed muscles. The horns on the head of Moses apparently result from an incorrect translation of the Exodus book which says that as Moses came down from Sinai, he had two rays on his forehead. The Jewish "karan" or "karnaim" - "rays" - may have been confused with "keren" - "horns".
      According to many critics this was one of Michelangelo’s favourite works as he considered it extremely realistic. Once the work was finished he hit it and ordered it to speak, but of course he knew that the statue only spoke to tell the sculpture what the marble contained..
      ===============
      The third statue in the Campo de Fiori is of Giordano Bruno, a 16th C Dominican friar during in the 1500s who came to believe that the universe was infinite and that there were multiple important worlds, all of which were equally overseen by an aspect of God. After a 7 year trial, on 17 Feb 1600 he was led into the Campo de’ Fiori with a spike through his tongue, and at the request of Cardinal Bellarmine, burned at the stake before his ashes were cast into the nearby river Tiber. The Vatican has failed in its attempt to have this commemorative statue removed and has refused to remove the taint of heresy from Bruno.

      + Modern art which perhaps someone can explain to me.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Santa Maria della Vittoria, كنيسة القديسة ماريا دي فيكتوريا, Санта-Марыя-дэла-Віторыа, Σάντα Μαρία ντέλα Βιτόρια, Iglesia de Santa María de la Victoria, Église Santa Maria Della Vittoria de Rome, סנטה מריה דלה ויטוריה, Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria, サンタ・マリア・デッラ・ヴィットーリア教会, 산타 마리아 델라 비토리아 성당, Црква Санта Марија Дела Виторија, Kościół Matki Bożej Zwycięskiej w Rzymie, Санта-Мария-делла-Витториа, โบสถ์ซันตามาเรียเดลลาวิตโตเรีย, Санта Марія делла Вітторіа, 胜利之后圣母堂

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