Assisi to SpelloJanuary 31 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
The Saint Francis Way
The Saint Francis Way
The Saint Francis Way
We started in Collepino -- it seems every hill top has a small village from the Middle Ages. Of course the ones we see have all been restored. Everything is spotless.
The walk followed the ancient route of the aqueduct that supplied Spello. Along the way we walked through olive groves. These are amazing trees. They grow without irrigation -- even this Summer which was both hot and extremely dry. The trees live for centuries -- the oldest in Umbria is from the 1700's. But they need to be pruned every year if they are to produce enough olives for oil production.Read more
Checked out and stored half our luggage. Walked around and had a forgettable espresso. Saw the Piazza Navona. Looked at Christmas shops but nothing amazing - disappointing Christmas game Rome (though not so disappointing as Paris)! Browsed more shops.
Then sandwiches and wine from Pane e Salame for lunch (thanks to Trent and Renee for the recommendation). Turns out that its number 1 rank on TripAdvisor was warranted - was delicious! Porchetta (roast pork) and salami with eggplant and smoked cheese, yum. Plus, they had Coldplay songs on - perfect.
For dessert some gelato from Venchi - yum. And then back to our luggage. Took a wrong turn and stumbled across a place that had a few Christmas ornaments. Found a handpainted bauble made in Pashmir with 12 layers of lacquer (not handmade in Italy but was prettier than the others we had seen in Rome).
Then on the train to Spello! Side note: Spello is definitely a different place from the much instagrammed Spoleto. A fact we'd had to clarify after pretty much everyone we spoke to about going to Spello thought we meant Spoleto. And then asked why when he confirmed we meant Spello. Our response? It looked cute and small.
Train to Spello was 2 hours or so - went through a lot of tunnels which kept making our ears pop? Was odd but fine.
Spello is a super cute little mountainside village on the train route between Rome and Florence. Has about 6,000 people.
Our host didn't speak much English but he picked us up and drove us to the accommodation through tiny streets. Basically the width of a car which is slightly unnerving. Outside our place the road widens to almost two cars, so they call it a square instead of a road...
Haven't seen much of the town but looking forward to exploring for the next 3 days. Went out for dinner to a recommended restaurant and was delicious. Thick spaghetti with truffle, bread, red wine, veal stew in wine sauce, grilled zucchini, tomato and eggplant, some other green vegetable and lots of olive oil. Followed by tiramisù and souffle (Wade now understands that souffle is not creme brulee...). Was very good.Read more
Slow start on Friday - no breakfast stuff at accomodation so just had fruit and coffee. Made it out to lunch at La Cantina - a very nice restaurant in the centre of town.
Started with liver pate, toasted ciabatta and a bottle of delicious red wine. Followed by spaghetti with broccoli truffle and bacon, and mixed grilled meat, with spinach on the side. Really good. Dessert was a chocolate panna cotta (OK) and coffee. We were a little tipsy after lunch.
Checked out a couple of cute stores, then headed back home and chilled out. Was nice to relax.
Also did very little Saturday. Drank more wine. Ate some good pizza and battered squid/prawns for dinner. Read books and watched movies. Wade played some piano (Coldplay - Clocks). That was about it.Read more
Got up earlier today and made most of nice weather (not super sunny but tshirt weather before a little light spitting so we were happy). Decided to walk the old Roman Aqueduct trail to Collepino.
Not a super historical trail although we were walking beside a wall that presumably is or was the aqueduct. Served the area until 1900 or so, and was then forgotten and was then rediscovered and repaired... ish. Clearly marked trail, and had random sayings imprinted on blocks throughout. Favourite (and only one we could easily translate) was from Einstein: "the mind is like a parachute - it only works if you open it".
But overall trail was beautiful just walking through trees etc. Had nice views of Spello and the Umbrian countryside. Trees were nice with all the autumn colours. Took a while to get to the end and we probably should've just turned around early as the last part was disappointing (and there wasn't anything really at Collepino).
It was small and cute, but basically a ghost town and neither the one restaurant nor the one cafe were open at 4pm on a Sunday - understandably. So not really worth the steep uphill trek (including going astray for 5 minutes before realising our error). Did make some random cat friends though.
Walked the car road home and considered hitching but was nice going downhill after we had cooled down. Each listened to some music, had a relaxed walk back in the fresh cool air. The way back was much quicker coming back. 2 hours ish there and 45m back or so.
Then grabbed panini (one hot with roast pork and one cold with salami, both delicious) and some snacks and came home. Relaxed and then got takeaway pizza. Note to selves - prosciutto crudo (raw) can be good on toast but is consistently bad when baked on pizza. Will steer clear and stick to our mushroom or vege pizzas mostly (or plain).
Now packing before we head to Florence tomorrow! Photos of first half of walk - second half in next post.Read more
More photos of the walk though they don't do the view justice.
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