• Jeff Joll
  • Eileen Joll
Nis – Haz 2023

Camino Portuguese

Backpacking the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela followed by visits to Madrid, Seville and Barcelona Okumaya devam et
  • Gezinin başlangıcı
    21 Nisan 2023

    Off we go!

    21 Nisan 2023, Amerika Birleşik Devletleri ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Packs all ready to go for a 6 week trip. Since the plan is to hike close to 400 miles, we are traveling light.

    Today is the day we leave, arriving in Lisbon in the morning.

  • Arrived in Lisbon

    22 Nisan 2023, Portekiz

    Made it to Lisbon and wandered the streets with friends from Germany on the way to the train station. Heading to Sintra. The building that looks like a museum is the train station.

    We left Newark about 40 minutes late so a bit of a late start in Lisbon.Okumaya devam et

  • Sintra

    22 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Spent some hours visiting Sintra. Lots of hills, felt like walking in Pittsburgh. The trains were exactly on time in both directions, leaving within seconds of scheduled time.

  • Drinks by the waterfront

    22 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    After around the Lisbon waterfront area, we stopped for drinks and a bite to eat.

    Finally made it to bed around 23:00. Aside from a short nap on the plane, we had been up since Friday morning so it didn't take long to fall asleep. And, not to mention, that we probably walked close to 10 miles.Okumaya devam et

  • Day 2

    22 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    The first day in a new place for me (Eileen) is always overwhelming. I am tired, don't have my bearings, and am a little anxious. Today we went straight from the airport to meeting up with Elena, a German exchange student we had 12 years ago, (and her mom and her aunt). What a blessing! She had the entire day planned - a train ride to Sintra, a neighboring town with castles, walking along the river area of Lisbon, and food plans. It made my day so much better because I could just walk and take in the culture and since I was so tired, I don't have to make decisions!! Things noticed about Lisbon: white or pink buildings with terracotta roofs; lots of tile, mostly blue; cobblestone roads and sidewalks, some with an intricate mosaic; narrow, hilly roads with restaurants, stores, and hostels; and laundry from balconies!

    Things I am thankful for: meeting old friends, an Uber driver who went out of his way to find us at the airport, people from other countries who speak English!!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Exploring Lisbon by foot

    23 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    We started the day with a great breakfast with Elena, Birgit, and Connie. After breakfast, it was back to walking around the town .... up the hills and down to the waterfront. At 15:00, we said our goodbyes as our German friends headed home to Essen.Okumaya devam et

  • Ferry to Cacilhas and Cristo Rei

    23 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    A light snack of snails and beer in old town Cacilhas then a hike up the hill to Cristo Rei.

    Passed over Pink Street in Lisbon on the way to catch the ferry.

  • Beer - an important cultural institution

    23 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    We visited the museum of beer on Sunday night. On Monday, we took the photos with the tiles at the oldest beer hall in Portugal, a former monastery. Very beautiful, the Cervejaria da Trindade. Also tried the beer pudding.Okumaya devam et

  • My thoughts on today (Eileen)

    24 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    I will admit that I am always nervous traveling to other countries, but today was reinforced for me how easy it is for Americans to travel abroad, at least to the big cities. Our guided walk today had people from at least 8 different countries. Our tour guide spoke English and everyone understood him. We met two ladies at breakfast at our hostel, one originally from Georgia, the other originally from Senegal, and had a conversation with them. Their English wasn't perfect, but we had conversations. I was humbled thinking about how good I have it. Most of the people we have met know at least 2 languages and some know 3 or 4. I am spoiled!

    Today we got to celebrate the 25 da April with the local Portuguese people with festivals and music. It is their freedom day, the day they became a republic with individual freedoms. They have only had these rights for 49 years. The older generation remembers not having those freedoms and so they are passionate about it. Sometimes I forget how fortunate we are. Fireworks are unifying. The people here oohed and awwwed just like us!
    Okumaya devam et

  • 25th of April celebrations

    24 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    The revolution that ended the fascist rule in Portugal took place on April 25, 1974. The celebrations start on April 24. Some number of thousands in the big square here waiting for live music to start at 2200

    We went on a walking tour with a local and he (Marco) expressed concern that the fascist party was gaining strength.

    It was interesting to see the locals reacting (positively) to the patriotic presentation before the concert and to songs that appeared to be patriotic.

    We left before midnight but were able to see the fireworks from our room.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Belem

    25 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Belem is just a few miles from downtown Lisbon. The architecture of the abbey is fantastic and, along with the church, is centuries old. The Belem Tower would have been the last thing Portuguese sailors would have seen as they ventured into the Atlantic.Okumaya devam et

  • Food and drinks of Lisbon

    25 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Lisbon is known for its seafood, especially its codfish that is cured in salt. They use the cod to make codfish cakes with serra cheese in the center. They are everywhere and good for a little snack. They also make a custard filled pastry called Pastel de Nata. Best dessert! I have eaten one every day!! Beer is a regular as is the cherry ginjas. This is best if poured into a dark chocolate cup. Eat the cup when half filled with the liquor and it tastes like a chocolate covered cherry. But the coffee is small!!Okumaya devam et

  • Getting ready for the main event!

    25 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Camino de Santiago, known in English as the Way of St James, is a network of pilgrims' ways or pilgrimages leading to the shrine of the apostle Saint James the Great in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition holds that the remains of the apostle are buried. (Wikipedia.). This used to be a religious pilgrimage but today people walk for all kinds of reasons including just for the challenge!

    We are packing our packs and will be leaving Wednesday morning. We are 5 hours ahead of the US so when you wake up Wednesday, we will already be well underway. We will carry our personal needs in our backpacks, buy food along the way, and stay as often as we can in albergues (hostels or guest houses). Stay tuned!!! Santiago here we come!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Camino Day 1 Lisbon.Vila Franca de Xira

    26 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Walked 21.75 miles under sunny skies, 84 degrees with little shade. We collapsed onto beds upon entering our room. Tomorrow is to be 89 deg.

    We left from Lisbon and saw 5 pilgrims from Lisbon who are walking the Camino to Fatima, a much more popular route in southern Portugal. We also passed 2 Slovenians who were biking to Santiago and a Frenchman and a Canadian walking- actually, they passed us. Other than that, it was just the two of us walking through parks, fields, along highways, or over boardwalks.

    We are at Retiro and spoke with Jason from Florida. He is a 40 year old doing his second Camino. He said his flight landed at 8:00AM and he went directly to cathedral to pick up his Camino passport. He obviously walked faster than us, arriving only an hour later.

    This was the second time we went into a restaurant only to be told that the kitchen didn't open until 7:00. That was ok, just gave us some dedicated beer drinking time.

    Things we learned.
    - Stop at the cafes along the way when you see them - we didn't and then they weren't around when we wanted one.
    -. Carry snacks!! (Fortunately, we did!)
    - Carry extra water it fill up at the cafes you stop at. We ran out before we got to our final destination.

    I'm thankful for:
    - the beautiful wildflowers that were in season today.
    - our health. Although we were very tired and very sore, we made it without complications.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Camino Day 2 - to Azambuja

    27 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    We decided on a short day, only 12 miles. A couple reasons:. To get a good sleep and adapt to the physical routine, and because it was 91 deg when we stopped hiking and there was zero shade. The next 3 days look to be 20 mile days .

    Today we met up with our Portuguese friends again. They are on a 5 day trip to Fatima. They range in age from 33 - 58 and are all from the same church. This is a true spiritual pilgrimage for them. They tried to convince us to go to Fatima first and then on to Santiago but we don't need anymore extra miles. We won't see them again as they were going farther today and will shortly veer off of our path. Bom Camino!

    We have met the other Americans. Jason is from Florida and we met him at the restaurant last night. We may or may not see him again. He had a plan and walks much faster than us. Today we met two ladies from California as we were leaving the cafe we stopped at, Allison and Jaz.

    I am thankful for:
    - those walking poles!!! When my legs get tired, they are a little extra support.
    - GPS. We follow the camino trail of yellow arrows but sometimes they are hard to find. It is nice to know you are on the right track or if you are off of it before you have gone too far.
    - flowers, animals, and things that I said, "oh, we have that at home!" We are really not all that different
    Okumaya devam et

  • Camino Day 3 - to Santarem

    28 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    21 miles today and the weather forecasters are as bad here as they are at home. Last night, the forecast was for a cloudy day. We didn't see many clouds and most were in the morning when it was cool. Very little shade, once again. The last 1.5 miles were up hill.

    Today we walked primarily through farmland - some ready to be planted, some recently planted, and we saw tomatoes being planted by a big machine doing several rows at a time. There were so many picturesque moments, but pictures would not do then justice (and if I stopped every time I wanted a picture, it would have taken us another hour!)

    We walked with Jeff from California for a while today and met Connie and Lizbet from Denmark. Jeff is 71 and did the Frances last year as a 70th birthday present to himself. Lots of bikers doing the camino as well.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Camino Day 4 - to Golega

    29 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Did a little over 20.25 miles today. It seemed easy helped by the fact it was only mid 70s with a great breeze most of the way.

    Walked several miles through vineyards followed by miles of cornfields. In both cases, we were right in the middle of the fields.

    Met more pilgrims today, two from Bangor, Maine (Dan & Heather) and our friends from Denmark, all struggling to get through another 20 mile day. Our friends from Denmark, Connie and Lisbeth, retired teachers, did the Camino Frances last year. They said that the Frances was more hilly, but was easier to do because there are cafes everywhere and lots of places to stay. You could determine how far you wanted to walk. Here, you have to walk until there is a place to stay, which could be 10 miles or 20 miles, but nothing in between! And there have only been two or three cafes throughout the 20 miles. We have been making reservations 3 and 4 days out and sometimes have to call 2 or 3 places to get a room. Once we get to Porto, things should be different as many people start there.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 5 - To Tomar

    30 Nisan 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    A little over 19 miles today and that was a push. It was a low energy day. Sure glad we scheduled tomorrow as a rest day. Tomar looks like a fun place to check out - we are in the old city.

    Spent some time with our Danish friends, mostly at a cafe stop that was long overdue. While at the cafe we also met a young couple from Siberia. I bet they were loving the 80s weather with sunny skies.

    It was a challenging day. We both started out dragging and then had to go 14 miles before we came to an open cafe and could get some coffee, juice, cold water and/or beer. Earlier we stopped on a park bench and then later in the shade of a tree to eat what we were carrying. Today we left the river Teo and started up. A lot of ups and downs, but mostly ups, through a few nice neighborhoods and then through the forest. It was a hot, quiet, peaceful day.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 6 - Rest Day in Tomar

    1 Mayıs 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Today was a very necessary rest day. 20 mile days catch up to you. We slept in, had breakfast at the hostel, and spent some time planning our future accommodations. This is not how we planned our trip but there are many more people doing the Camino than in the past. So, where do we stay? There are albergues - shared dormitory type rooms and shared baths and kitchen. They fill up quickly. We have been staying in (and mostly booked ahead) hostels or guesthouses. We have been able to get a private room with a shared or private bath, and shared kitchen. Most of them include breakfast. They have been clean and comfortable, where many pilgrims are staying and average 60E.

    Today was sunny and hot. Tomar is a beautiful town with a lot of medieval history. We took a tuk-tuk around town for a guided tour. Our guide was a local named Monica. This town has been largely influenced by the Knights of Templar and Christianity and yet it also has the oldest synagogue in the world. There are only two Jewish families currently living here but many make a pilgrimage from Israel to worship here.

    Thoughts on our first week:
    There is so much to take in on this trip.
    1) There are snails everywhere. We may lose then when we move away from the river area but some days you had to be careful where you walked so you didn't step on them.
    2) If the people here have a yard, they have an orange tree, and I am jealous! (I also want a kumquat tree!)
    3) There are so many pilgrims from all over the world to meet. This in itself is an experience. Today we met Emma, a 24 year old yoga instructor from the czech republic. Emma was having know issues. We also ran into our friends from Denmark, who decided to take a rest day, also.
    4( Walking through all of the small towns gives one the chance to witness Portugal as it is. Seeing people working in the fields or the industry, tending their own gardens, coming to the cafes with their families for Saturday breakfast, washing their white houses, teenagers hanging out at the hamberquesa, being in a bar where everyone knows each other (except us!), celebrating holidays with parades, and junior hockey teams winning the championship with car honking and cheers in the streets. We don't understand their language, and yet we can relate. This is very different than being in the tourist big cities.
    5) Communicating outside of the bigger cities is a little more difficult but most Portuguese people are friendly and try their best. (Most of their English is still better than my Portuguese). At a tavern we ate at earlier this week, the man spoke no English and his wife, the cook, spoke broken English. When we asked about food, she had a picture of a common Portuguese dish - meat (pork or beef), rice, French fries, and an egg. That is what she would cook for us. We got it, and liked it. If we could speak Portuguese, maybe we would have had more options, but if you only speak English, there is one picture. Lol
    6) Taking an escape from everyday living, enjoying nature, and peaceful solitude, not having any idea what the day or date is. Honest, everyday we ask each other "What day is today?"
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 7 Tomar to Aalvaiazere

    2 Mayıs 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The guide book says that we would climb out of the flat plains into the central province and climb we did - up, up, and up some more. 20 miles with a high of 92°. (Okay we came down some, but every time we came down, we went up more!) We left at 6:00am to get as much of the trek in as we could before it got too hot. A lot of the hills were Pittsburgh type hills but some were straight up, seemingly never ending. We went through very nice forestry areas and some nice suburban areas, as well as little towns. There were many olive groves, aromatic wildflowers, and yards with planted flowers. A very pretty day but very hot. We were blessed with some shade and a little bit of cloud coverage. It could have been a lot worse. And there was only one cafe on the trail.

    We are spending the night at the Albergue Pinheiros run by Carlos. He greeted us with port wine and a very special stamp. Pilgrims carry a passport and get stamps from the places they stay and cafes. I am sure we will not get another stamp as special as Carlos's. He also recommended a place for dinner. Many of the pilgrims staying here went there so we had a great time socializing with our friends from Denmark, Maine, and a new friend from South Africa (Senid, a retired traveling nurse).

    I am thankful...
    ... That we only have one more 20 mile day scheduled.
    ... That there was a gas station/convenience store right when we needed it.
    ... For my husband, whom I love to travel with. We have experienced so much already and I know I wouldn't have done this without him!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 8 Alvaiazere to Rabacal

    3 Mayıs 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Today was a lot like yesterday - forests, hills, olive trees, vineyards, flowers, small towns, and suburban neighborhoods. And 20+ miles! Beautiful terrain, truly only appreciated with the naked eye. I missed a photo opportunity this morning. An older woman was walking her goats down the road. I didn't want to take her picture without her permission and when we got closer enough, the goats jumped to the field. The picture reflected the old Portuguese. In the next town, there were new builds and rehabs of older buildings taking place and the making of a newer, contemporary Portuguese. We spent part of our day walking with Senti (South Africa), Connie and Lizbeth (Denmark), and Laura and Fortal (Mexico).

    We are starting at a wonderful Alberque and met Alex from Germany. Alex was originally from Essen. He was surprised we knew of it and had been there. Alex is a Packers fan but has friends who are Steelers fans, complete with terrible towels.

    We had dinner with Dan and Heather (Maine). Dan is in the Merchant Marines and basically works 70 days on and 70 days off. This trip is part of his 70 days off - they do not have a return flight booked.

    And green wine is delicious! (It's not really green or from green grapes - look it up!)

    Highlight: A man was getting oranges from his tree and offered us two. They were delicious!!

    Late in the day, we encountered our first rain shower since being in Portugal. It wasn't too long or too hard. Today was much cooler (mid 70s), which made the trek easier.

    It is great that, despite language barriers we are able to communicate with other pilgrims and the locals. Of course, being able to speak English is a great benefit. However, many locals on the smaller towns do not speak English, and the Mexicans we have traveled with know very little.

    Things that I, Jeff, am grateful for:
    - that Eileen and I are physically able to do this, despite it being hard/tiring
    - that Eileen is willing to do this Camino.
    - that we have the means to do it.

    When we get to the last hour or two of these 20 miles days, it is easy to ask yourself "Why?". Not sure that i have a good answer for that yet but I think it is good to test your limits and get out of your comfort zone.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 9 - to Coimbra

    4 Mayıs 2023, Portekiz ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Another cooler (70s) but mostly sunny day that made it feel warmer. We hiked about 18.75 miles. While there weren't at many elevation changes as the two previous days, there was enough to keep us challenged.

    Our first cafe stop was at the museum at Conimbriga, 7 - 8 miles into our day. There are remains of a Roman settlement there. We stayed at the cafe longer than we should have, closed to an hour - which included a delicious sandwich. While there we spoke with Alex (German) along with Dan and Heather (USA). The Siberians also showed up while we were there. Really haven't spoken with them much and don't know there names - so i (Jeff) decided to nickname them Boris and Natasha.

    Surprisingly we didn't see our Mexican travelers after we left the hostel this morning, and they appeared to be ready to leave shortly after us. Just before heading into our room in Coimbra this evening, we did see one of them on the street, although she was on a phone call so we didn't talk.

    Coimbra is an ancient town with multiple churches dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Wish we were spending an extra day here to explore.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 10 Coimbra to Sernadelo

    5 Mayıs 2023, Portekiz ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    It was a pretty boring day. It was shorter than our usual day, only 16 miles today. Unfortunately, all but about 4 miles were on roads. The best part was leaving Coimbra along the river.

    We hate walking on roads. There is not always a berm to walk on and you have to stay alert. But, we still managed to take in a few pretty sights. The people along the Camino are very nice and very aware of the Camino. Yesterday, when we were at intersections looking at our book or our app, trying to confirm which way to go, some random person walking by said "Camino?" and then pointed in the right direction. Today we started up a hill and there were two ladies outside having a chat. As we got closer they started talking to us very excitedly in Portuguese. We thought they were cheering us on. Then they started shooing us away from them and pointing. Yep, we had missed a turn. I don't believe in coincidences so I am thankful for these people being in the right place at the right time!

    We spent some extra time at the cafes chatting with other pilgrims. The Mexicans joined up with a pilgrim from Spain and one from Puerto Rico. They are carrying flags from their countries and they were having fun!

    For those who care, neither one of us took an Aleve today so the aches and pains are getting less!! And on a blister count, it's Eileen - 3, Jeff - 1, all on toes and all healing well.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 11 - Sernadelo to Agueda

    6 Mayıs 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was an almost perfect Camino day. There was cloud cover, with a light rain this morning, cooler temperatures, several cafe stops, and only 15.5 miles. With the exception of a section of an industrial zone, the walk went through lots of towns and suburbs. It was all on roads again but today there were plenty of sidewalks and wide berms. The suburbs have refurbished old houses into beautiful neighborhoods.

    Earlier this week someone said that the Camino had a way of hiding pilgrims! Today we didn't see any of our old friends until we reached our accommodations. Depending on when you start, how long you stop, and how fast you walk, many people can be on the trail and never see each other. Last night we were philosophically comparing the Camino to life. (Maybe it was the wine!). Like in life, we have met many people - some just in passing, some for a while, and some for the distance (so far). There are plenty of people that we have seen around, know that they are on the same journey, but have not had the opportunity to speak with them. Then there are those that we got to know and enjoyed their company, but our time with them wasn't to be long. Jeff (California) and Senid (South Africa) were both in their 70's and said they know their limits. They were only doing 10-12 miles a day. Alex (Germany) also was only doing short distances. He is only 50 but had overworked himself the last couple of years and is using the Camino to teach himself to slow down. We knew when we left them that we will probably not see them again but we thoroughly enjoyed meeting them.

    Then there are the people that are currently on the same path as us sometimes even staying in the same places. These are the people that you daily share the highs and lows of each day, encouragement, and even a glass of beer. How long this will go on we don't know. There are many more miles and many more pilgrims to meet. What role each plays for us is yet to be seen. Maybe a few of them will become lifetime friends! Stay tuned as this chapter keeps evolving!

    Today, we meet Luis who spends have his time in northern California and half in southern Mexico. He and his wife have been doing this for 6 years. He says live in Mexico has less stress, 70 -80 degrees year round, and are able to have a housekeeper and a gardener. I think he said this is his 4th Camino. Luis did not appear to be 50 yet.

    We have heard lots of church bells as we travel, some even out of tune. Hearing the bells reminds me (Jeff) of hearing the bells from st. Michaels every 15 minutes when i was young.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 12 - to Branca

    7 Mayıs 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We hiked 16.8 miles under sunny skies with temps in the low 70s with a wonderful breeze. A lot of it was on roads but we also had some woodland scenery.

    We met a mother and daughter (Caitlyn) from New Zealand. Mom had done the Frances Camino 11 years earlier. Caitlyn had invited her mother along on the Camino and mom jumped at the opportunity.

    Today we saw many hundreds (likely over 1000) pilgrims on their way to Fatima for the annual celebration that takes place on May 13. Most were in large groups supported by vans with food and gear. None of them were carrying packs. Some were singing, dinner saying the rosary, some carrying banners, most just walking with their church groups and socializing. Fatima is going to be hopping on Thursday!

    Twice we passed people playing "American" music - We are the Champions, and Hey Jude. We smiled and started singing along!

    As we neared our destination, we looked for a place to get some minimal food for the morning. We like to have some things on hand because some mornings we have traveled 6 - 8 miles before finding an open cafe. We weren't finding anywhere as we headed out of the small town when a lady in one of the Fatima supply vans asked if we wanted an apple (maca) as we walked by. When i said yes, she opened the back of the van and handed me two oranges, then two apples. She then asked if we wanted bananas and i said yes. Before she got the bananas, c she asked if we wanted cake, which I said yes. She cut us 2 big slices off a pound cake (which we immediately ate) and then proceeded to hand us 4 bananas. So, we weren't able to buy what we were looking for but it was provided - more than enough to see us through tomorrow morning.

    Tonight is our first night in a shared room in true pilgrim fashion. We were to be in a room with 4 but Paulo had to improvise too accommodate everyone. Because of the Fatima pilgrimage, there are tons of people looking for accommodations. I will be sleeping on a fold out couch. A group dinner (28 people) will be served at 1930 (7:30).

    Our roommates included Luis and Fia, asking with a man we never met.
    Okumaya devam et