Great Africa Expedition

June - July 2017
A 49-day adventure by Jessica Read more
  • 81footprints
  • 11countries
  • 49days
  • 204photos
  • 2videos
  • 22.3kkilometers
  • 14.5kkilometers
  • Day 6

    Nalubaale Bridge

    June 14, 2017 in Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The Nalubaale bridge was built in 1954 and is located at Njeru, a suburb of Jinja on the Victoria Nile, between the source of the Nile to the south and Nalubaale Power Station to the north. This is adjacent and immediately north of where the Uganda Railways line crosses the Victoria Nile. It is located on the proposed Kampala–Jinja Expressway, approximately 82 kilometres (51 mi), by road, east of Kampala, Uganda's capital and largest city.

    The Nalubaale Bridge is one of the only two road crossings across the Victoria Nile in Uganda, the other crossing being the Karuma Bridge, approximately 285 kilometres (177 mi), by road, to the north. The road crossing at Jinja is of national and regional significance because it is part of the "Northern Corridor", a highway across east and central Africa linking the Indian Ocean at Mombasa, Kenya, to the Atlantic Ocean at Matadi, Democratic Republic of the Congo. The old bridge, commissioned in 1954, is in bad structural shape and has outlived its expected lifespan. The new bridge will carry a four-lane dual highway with pedestrian sidewalks. It will be the longest bridge in Uganda at 525 metres (1,722 ft) long.

    I put a footprint at this bridge because I found it interesting that no one was allowed to take photographs of it. The bridge is lined with police and if caught taking photographs there are serious penalties. They consider that bridge to be very important because it is the quickest way to get food and other resources in to the capital of Uganda - Kampala, if enemies were to know the structure of the bridge they would be able to bomb the bridge and cause mayhem.
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  • Day 6

    Red Chilli Camp

    June 14, 2017 in Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    This camp is my favourite by far, it is absolutely beautiful! It has a bar inside as well as beside the pool and really nice facilities (flushing toilets and warm showers) which is a big tick! We all set our tents up, showered, had dinner and then sat at the bar talking until they closed.Read more

  • Day 7

    Lake Bunyonyi Overland Camp

    June 15, 2017 in Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I thought Red Chilli Camp was the best but this one definitely takes the cake, I cannot believe how beautiful this place is and we get to spend four nights here! We have set up our tent right on the lake and have an amazing view as you can see from the photo.

    The facilities here are pretty good, three bars (one at each level which is handy when the stairs are as steep as they are, you can stop of for a beer at each level), good showers and toilets which is important if you haven't noticed I'm always commenting on them haha.

    The next few days are going to be really busy and pretty exciting, I am going to have early mornings and long days because I going to look for chipmunks tomorrow, gorillas on Saturday and then visiting Rwanda on Sunday!
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  • Day 8

    Kalinzu Forrest

    June 16, 2017 in Uganda ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today we went trekking for chimpanzees in the Kalinzu Forrest, it was an early start having to get up at 4:45am to have breakfast and get on the transfer bus. It was about a three hour drive before we got to the starting point where we met our guide for the day.

    We decided while there to take advantage of a toilet stop but it turns out there was no advantage, it was a long drop toilet that hasn't been covered for a while and it smelt horrendous! I would have rather of stopped for a 'bush toilet' which meals squat!

    After that ordeal we got back into the bus and drove for a further ten minutes until we reached the Kalinzu Forrest where we would be entering. As we entered the Forrest we began walking down further, I was providing entertainment to the others as I slid onto my bum about 5 times on the way down at one point Imogen and I were laughing so much that we were almost crying - one of those 'you have to be there' moments. We could hear the calls of the chimpanzees and were following them.

    We walked about thirty minutes before we saw our first chimpanzee, which was good considering sometimes people have to walk three hours! Soon after the first sighting we saw a second chimpanzee and a black and white colobus in the tree tops. It was very difficult to get a good photo because they are so high, we continued walking for a bit when I heard a noise behind me. I looked behind me to see a chimpanzee sitting in a tree at eye level about ten meters away! I alerted the group and the chimpanzee remained there letting us take photos of him.

    About twenty minutes after that I heard noises coming from behind again, this time the noise was moving fast towards us in the tree tops and once close enough we were able to identify them as two red tail monkeys playing - they were way too quick and fast to take a photograph of!

    We then started to head back when we saw a blue monkey and it's baby in the trees above, we stayed there for a little while and watched them. After a little while it was time to walk back to the bus, the walk was all up hill and let's just say I got a bit of a sweat up.

    We got back to the bus alive and started driving back to camp, that night at dinner everyone was talking because half had gone trekking for chimpanzees and the other half went trekking for gorillas - the way the gorilla trekkers described their day I hope that we don't have to trek that far because I may possibly die!
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  • Day 9

    Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

    June 17, 2017 in Uganda ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today we went trekking for gorillas in the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, it was an early start having to get up at 4:45am to have breakfast and get on the transfer bus. It was about a two hour drive before we got to the starting point where we met our guide for the day.

    They provided us with a briefing and explained that there were five families in the national park, they only take a maximum of eight people to each family, each day and those people are limited to one hour with the family. They then allocated us a guide and two armed guards with AK-49 assault rifles that carried 39 rounds in the magazine. The armed guards were there to protect us from potentially aggressive animals as there are other animals living there as well, they stated that they would fire warning shots first and that shooting an animal was the last resort. In the briefing they told us that we were tracking the M family, which is one of the largest families with approximately twenty gorillas.

    What happens is professional trackers start two hours earlier, return to where the family was last seen and begin tracking the family of gorillas from there as the generally will only move approximately 1km overnight. The trackers then communicate the location of the gorillas to the guide who lead us to them. We had received the same family as the other half of our group saw yesterday so I knew we would be trekking for at least two hours.

    After the briefing we all got back into the bus and drove for another forty minutes on a dirt road and then we all piled into the back of a ute with our guide and armed guards where they drove us for another five minutes to where we would enter the national park. The first forty-five minutes of the trek was all up hill on a relatively cleared path, we continued to trek for another hour were we walked up and down hills before we reached a really dense part where we had to pretty much make our own path down to where we could see the trackers. Once down with the trackers we were briefed again on how to behave and what to do if a gorilla approaches you (crouch down and turn away) and given an opportunity to drink some water before trekking further to see them.

    We all assumed that we would have to walk about ten minutes before seeing a gorilla but they were literally five to ten meters away from where we were sitting. The first one I saw was the silver back and he was barely five meters away from me. I sat down and just watched him, I couldn't take my eyes off of him he was incredible. I then looked up to see several babies playing just above us and then the mother twenty meters away the the tree top plus a couple other family members in nearby bushes, everywhere I looked I could see gorillas surrounding me. It was just breath taking that we were able to see such an amazing creature in its natural habitat, I just sat there and appreciated how beautiful they were and how lucky I was right in that moment.

    The trek was about two and a half hours each way, it wasn't as difficult as I was expecting from talking to the other group so that was good. Don't get me wrong it was still challenging but I think once you see the gorillas it makes it all worth while. I would rank this as one of the best experiences of my life and would recommend it to everyone.
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  • Day 10

    Uganda / Rwanda Border

    June 18, 2017 in Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    This morning we had to get up at 5:00am again to have breakfast and to get on our transport which was driving us to and around Rwanda today. We were going to visit one of the churches involved in the genocide as well as the genocide memorial, followed by Rwanda Hotel for a buffet lunch.

    I think that today will be a very emotional day, it is important on days like today that everyone respects each other as it will effect everyone differently.
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  • Day 10

    Nyamata Church

    June 18, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The Rwanda Genocide began in April 1994. Many Tutsi people gathered here as churches were considered a place of safety. 10,000 people gathered here and the people locked themselves in. The church walls and doors today show how the perpetrators made holes in the walls of the church so that grenades could be thrown into the church. After this the people inside were shot or killed with machetes. The ceiling of the church shows the bullet holes and the altar cloth is still stained with blood. There were hundreds of coffins inside which have the remains of people inside, there were benches piled with clothing, letters and identification cards.

    Most of the remains have been buried but there are still a large quantity that are being cleaned by volunteers and buried. We were able to see the volunteers out the back cleaning the bones of both adults, children and infants, it just gave me a sick feeling to my stomach.

    People in the surrounding area were also killed after the massacre at the church, once killed they were ordered to be removed from the street and put into the church where they couldn't been seen. It is difficult to comprehend that 50,000 are buried here.
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  • Day 10

    Kigali Genocide Memorial

    June 18, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I don't think I fully understood the concept or extent of what had happened during the Kigali Genocide even after going to the memorial and being given all the information I am unable to fully comprehend. I have so many unanswered questions and I left the memorial centre feeling numb and lost for words.

    The Rwandan genocide, also known as the genocide against the Tutsi, was a genocidal mass slaughter of Tutsi in Rwanda by members of the Hutu majority government. An estimated 500,000–1,000,000 Rwandans were killed during the 100-day period from April 7 to mid-July 1994, constituting as many as 70% of the Tutsi population.

    The genocide itself, the large scale killing of Tutsi on the grounds of ethnicity, began within a few hours of Habyarimana's death. Military leaders in Gisenyi province announced the president's death, blaming the Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF) and then ordered the crowd to "begin your work" and to "spare no one", including babies.

    The Hutu population, which had been prepared and armed during the preceding months and maintained the Rwandan tradition of obedience to authority, carried out the orders without question.

    It is estimated that during the first six weeks, up to 800,000 Rwandans may have been murdered, representing a rate five times higher than during the Holocaust of Nazi Germany.

    Most of the victims were killed in their own villages or in towns, often by their neighbors and fellow villagers. The militia typically murdered victims with machetes, although some army units used rifles. The Hutu gangs searched out victims hiding in churches and school buildings, and massacred them. Local officials and government-sponsored radio incited ordinary citizens to kill their neighbors, and those who refused to kill were often murdered on the spot. "Either you took part in the massacres or you were massacred yourself."

    Road blocks were set up and people were obligated to present their identification card, if they were Tutsi they were slaughtered.

    The genocidal authorities were displaying the French flag on their own vehicles but slaughtering Tutsi who came out of hiding seeking protection.

    Rape was used as a weapon, during the conflict, Hutu extremists released hundreds of patients suffering from AIDS from hospitals and formed them into "rape squads." The intent was to infect and cause a "slow, inexorable death" for their future Tutsi rape victims. Tutsi women were also targeted with the intent of destroying their reproductive capabilities. Sexual mutilation sometimes occurred after the rape and included mutilation of the vagina with machetes, knives, sharpened sticks, boiling water, and acid.

    The genocide and widespread slaughter of Rwandans ended when the Tutsi-backed and heavily armed RPF led by Paul Kagame took control of the country. An estimated 2,000,000 Rwandans, mostly Hutus, were displaced and became refugees.

    The systematic destruction of the judicial system during the genocide and civil war was a major problem. After the genocide, over one million people were potentially culpable for a role in the genocide, nearly one fifth of the population remaining after the summer of 1994. After the genocide, the RPF pursued a policy of mass arrests for the genocide, jailing over 100,000 in the two years after the genocide. The pace of arrests overwhelmed the physical capacity of the Rwandan prison system, leading to what Amnesty International deemed “cruel, inhuman, or degrading treatment.” The country’s nineteen prisons were designed to hold about eighteen thousand inmates, but at their peak in 1998 there were 100,000 people in detention facilities across the country.
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  • Day 11

    Jinja Nile Camp

    June 19, 2017 in Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    This little resort is right on the River Nile and the views are amazing. Jess and I couldn't be bothered setting up our tent so we paid the extra $5 to be put into a door with four other girls on the trip for the two nights.

    The bunk beds were three beds high but we each had our own insect net, the beds were comfortable, there was wifi in the bar, the showers were HOT and the toilets flushed!

    I am just glad I didn't have to put up and take down the tent in the dark, I will have plenty of time for that in the up coming forty days!
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