Arrival
16 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
I am now in the Star Inn which is a modern luxury hotel, a two minute walk from Lisbon airport. Just what I need. Completely whacked after a long flight from Sydney. Wonderful full-on rainfall showerЧитать далее
Closed for the season.
17 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
I had intended to stay at Alpriate but when I arrived I found the albergue had closed for the season. So I just kept walking. And then called Uber. Thank you Luis! With his help I made it to VilaЧитать далее
ПутешественникHi Jill Remember to always eat more than one. I love the photos and think the Portuguese have such a flair with colour. Such a welcome contrast to Sydney’s greys which I think are an acceptance of our pollution fallout. Walk strong and have fun.
Laurie ReynoldsWell, I am sorry I told you that Alpriate would be open. That was the date I had been told. So sorry. Great pictures! Glad you are finding some companionship as well. Hugs.
ПутешественникAn eventful first day . Love the colourful houses and the horses. Sounds like a few people on the Portuguese.
In the rail corridor
18 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ 🌙 18 °C
A rather dreary walk along roads and beside the rail line through industrial buildings, enlivened by a bit of felonious activity. I failed to see the turning arrow and continued along a rough pathЧитать далее
ПутешественникYes people in the rail corridor can be a real problem. Good that you got out alive
ПутешественникGreat that you got put alive. If you were here you could have lined the crowded city streets for a view of Meghan and/or Harry. It’s Royal Fever week here. Mum is glued to the telly and has given me the rundown over dinner tonight. PS stay out of drains too PPS rest the blistered foot. Cheers
History, art and food
19 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Here I am in Santarém, with a humongous blister on my foot, having a lovely time sitting in the plaza drinking fiercely strong Portuguese coffee...waiting for the Cathedral to open.
The pastryЧитать далее
Mary CopelandBrings back so many memories. It was almost a year ago that my husband and I walked from Lisbon to Santiago - an interesting time to do that! We saw very few pilgrims, sometimes none for days. But absolutely loved it, especially walking along the coast after Porto.
ПутешественникDear Jill, So glad you’re heeding the advice you give others with similar blister issues. And glad that there is much for you to see. The tiles are amazing. Imagine that Ian has been busy importing some for a feature wall at home. Rest up. You need to be on top step from Vigo onwards. Cheers Robyn
Knights Templar and Henry the Navigator
20 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Tomar is a lovely place, and I had a great day being a tourist. Tomar was having a fiesta - I never did find out exactly what about, but it was fun. Firstly there was a procession of men on horseback,Читать далее
ПутешественникA good day and lots of fun for ‘actors’, locals and pilgrims alike. Did you notice that you caught a bird in the wing? Hope you’re keeping a diary on where to find good tarts.
Путешественник
Communal “facilities”? It was In the castle and there was no explanation.
Faith and miracles
21 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
After much planning, today I am off to Coimbra, but decided I could not miss Fátima on the way, as it is only a 30km detour, so got an early bus and am here now. Extraordinary place, horrible andЧитать далее
Путешественникsounds like an eventful few days . Not good about the blister. Got your good second skin stuff with you?
ПутешественникHi Jill, Wasn’t it Fatima the nuns were going to when we were at Lisbon airport? Glad you took the photos. Saves me a trip. Do you think Lourdes would be similar? Coimbra will be gorgeous again. The library, the chapel, the organ. Look after yourself. Here in Sydney I’ve just put away my heaters and doonas. It’s warming up.
ПутешественникYes, the nuns were on their way to Fátima. I think Lourdes is all wheelchairs. Not many of those that I saw at Fátima.
Coimbra, a literary fall
21 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Great view of the river from the terrace of the Portagem Hostel, where I stayed. Coimbra is a beautiful small university city, and the Joannina library is a must see in a lifetime experience. It’sЧитать далее
ПутешественникHi Jill Coimbra sounds interesting. More than just a bus and train station. Are the flags slippery because of rain? Or washing? Are the tarts still gorgeous?
Not for vegetarians
22 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Mealhade does not have much to offer except restaurant after restaurant specialising in - suckling pig! I tried it but have to say I think my version is at least as good. A rather forgettable walk toЧитать далее
Day of the bug
23 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ 🌙 17 °C
I woke this morning to see a big fat bedbug climbing up my sleeping sheet. Yuk! Squashed it between my fingers and sure enough, it had just feasted. So a report to the hospitalero, who was veryЧитать далее
Laurie ReynoldsYou and Clare are the bed bug queens. Always prepared and ready to handle the situation. Did you get any visible bite signs? So sorry it happened, Jill, but it couldn’t happen to a more prepared peregrina!
ПутешественникYes, Laurie, sure enough the next day a couple of bites appeared - one between my eyelid and eyebrow (trés jollie!), and a couple of others.
Its hot Mama!
24 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
A short 16km walk today after a delicious hotel buffet breakfast. I was planning to walk another 10km but by the time I got going it was quite late, and the heat pulsating waves. Everyone isЧитать далее
Laurie ReynoldsI should have alerted you to the really lovely shady green park in Agueda up the hill (beyond that house you posted a picture of, I think) — tons of painted pigs for some odd reason but it would have been a great place to spend a hot afternoon. Enjoying your posts a lot! The slog into Porto from Grijo is an urban sidewalk the whole way, not a fun way to end a long day if you start in Sao Joao. I’m sure there are urban buses. If you have free time in Sao Joao, on the way out of town is an old hat factory turned into museum. This is where I learned that “mad as a hatter” came from the fact that many hat makers inhaled too much poison and went crazy.
ПутешественникHi Jill Apparently Indian Summer in UK too. Good for figs. So I assume the Portuguese paint their bridgerails yellow. How is your blister? How are you? And the bedbugs? What bad luck.
Luxury hotel
26 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
A good 20km walk today. Almost all on hard asphalt with a very short section through eucalyptus forest - so still not great walking. Lots of short stops on the way in village bars for a refreshingЧитать далее
ПутешественникSounds like you need some BB free nights. Not a nice feeling if you think they might be there.
Hats off
26 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
My guide book said I’d be mad to miss the hat museum, and indeed it was terrific. A great personally guided tour. Once the largest producer of hats in the Iberian peninsular (in the days whenЧитать далее
ПутешественникBut Jill, which hat would you choose? A feathered fascinator for Melbourne Cup ( but you can’t wear it this year and wouldn’t pack down well) or the luscious lips? Doesn’t the display just make you so happy! Sparkling mineral water along the way too. If only the path was soft.
And suddenly, delights
26 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Porto is the most beautiful small city - with lively friendly people, charming narrow steep streets, a bustling riverfront with cafes, bars and myriad stalls to beguile the most reluctant shopper, andЧитать далее
ПутешественникJill, a true feast for the eyes. I have such fond memories of the vibrancy and fun in Porto. Finally I have mounted my sardines on the kitchen wall too. How’s the blistered foot?
Senda literal
27 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ 🌬 12 °C
A day walking by the sea - glorious sunshine but a cold wind blowing hard from the North. Just my kind of walking weather! In fact so good I surprised myself, and comfortably walked far more km thanЧитать далее
ПутешественникDon’t you just so admire fishermen. Such a repetitive life requiring strength, teamwork order and persistence. All to deliver such delicious seafood to the table for you to enjoy. The potatoes look good too. Glad you’ve reached an easier walking stretch.
Bracing wind, pumping legs
28 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ 🌬 11 °C
Another great day of walking, mainly on boardwalk beside a white capped Atlantic, but with a few detours inland beside greenhouses and commercial vegetable plots. Wind still blowing strongly from theЧитать далее
ПутешественникLooks fantastic! Salt-laden air being blown into your lungs would be invigorating in itself. The beaches, the aqueduct and the energy of the people inspiring. And whilst I’m not a fan of cleaning leeks, in the case of that barrowful, I’d be happy to. And that Finistere-sequel sunset from your room.....spectacular! I’m really enjoying your posts, Jill.
The boats are in
29 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
I was happily waylaid today, eating a late breakfast in the sun, watching the fishing boats come in, wandering down to watch them being dragged up the sand by tractors, and then the fish - so fresh -Читать далее
Laurie ReynoldsThose round stone buildings are old windmills, the spokes used to come out from the pointy top. Gorgeous pictures, so glad you are enjoying yourself, Jill.
Finding the way
30 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ 🌧 9 °C
The albergue last night was excellent, although freezing cold. I’m so glad I packed some extra clothes!
For most of today I had a lovely walk and talk with Regina from Munich, nice girl. The wayЧитать далее
Azul tiles, gold, and a funicular
31 октября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
A lovely walk to start the day, a bridge crossing a wide river, then the fabulous fishing port of Viana do Castelo. Took the fun funicular ride to the top of the mountain to see the church perchedЧитать далее
Путешественникbar the phone problem it looks like this section of the walk much better than the earlier bit. So glad you have 'hit your stride', so to speak. Landscape and churches. A great combination. And i still have a photo of a Portuguese fishing boat from our Combi trip all those centuries ago. Happy memories.
ПутешественникHi Jill, Glad to hear that your phone is fixed. Was trying to recall the time when we didn’t have them and then when they were only phones! Do you remember the ‘phone table’ with the family phone in the hallway and the teledex and the double volume White Pages? Sounds like an interesting day in spite of the turnaround. I love the blue tiles. Spring is here with tomorrow hovering around a very summery 34. Louisa, Morag, Huon and Rosa arriving tomorrow for the weekend. Their first sleep away since Rosa arrived eight weeks ago.
Bend ze knees!
1 ноября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ 🌧 13 °C
Decided today that walking on the flat boardwalks beside the sea was nice but would not get me fit. So opted for the route that runs a couple of kilometres inland. Lots of ups and downs. A few tooЧитать далее
ПутешественникHi Jill Just returned from flashback to the 1980s. Fabulous night of cabaret. Ian, an attentive host and an energetic member of the ensemble. Cheers
ПутешественникThe SIm stopped working the minute I crossed the border into Spain. Curses on Vodaphone who promised it would work everywhere in Europe! So I’m managing with wifi.
Last day in Portugal
2 ноября 2018 г., Португалия ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Walking well and enjoyably. Today I had an absolute feast of white figs, three trees in a row on waste land beside a railway track. Who could resist? Let’s hope my tummy copes! For my last day inЧитать далее
They do colours in Spain too
3 ноября 2018 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
Loved the town of A Guarda. Houses tumbling down to the port and beach, obvious pride in the town, lively residents. Stayed in the municipal albergue and it was great - clean and with all theЧитать далее
Wild weather walking
4 ноября 2018 г., Испания ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
A big walk today, trying to stay ahead of the rain forecast for the rest of the week. I took the route around the sea and it was spectacular - huge waves rolling in from the Atlantic. Saw a fewЧитать далее
Rain, rain, rain - and cold!
5 ноября 2018 г., Испания ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
It was Altus on, head down, and rev up the walking machine! Past gun turrets pointing out to sea (too far away for photos) and the lovely town of Baiona with its fortress castle - invaders from theЧитать далее
ПутешественникGlad this finds you warm and dry. Never, ever walk without your Altus! What a winning combination for the restaurant: fire, soup and warm and cosy room just up the stairs. Sleep well, trooper! Tomorrow is Vigo, the city. Such fond memories of this vibrant city. Remember the chess being played in the street!
ПутешественникDon’t need an Altus if you use a car - times have progressed. Non walkers unite
ПутешественникSounds like the perfect ending to a wet day. We need these contrasts in life I reckon
Pride goeth....
6 ноября 2018 г., Испания ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
This post is retrospective. After reading Kirsten Harley’s recent exploits I feel like a complete fraud, but there needs to be some explanation of the gap in my footprints.
A wonderfullyЧитать далее
ПутешественникHi jill. Nasty. Looks like the colour of thunder - a fall or twisted??
Dear friend
7 ноября 2018 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Today I met my friend Annette at Vigo airport and we walked from there to Redondela. Before arriving at our albergue we spied a restaurant crowded with people. It obviously needed us! So a deliciousЧитать далее
ПутешественникGreat to catch up with a friend and walk in such great country and scenery.
ПутешественникBom Caminho Jill! Will you be walking from Lisbon all the way to Santiago?
Laurie ReynoldsBom caminho from Utah! Hope you have a marvelous walk. And if you meet José Luis or Natércia at the Alpriate albergue, give them my hugs.
ПутешественникLee, my intention was to walk all the way to Santiago from Lisbon, but then Ian decided to come to Europe and so I’m cutting my walk short - which means a train or bus somewhere.