Camino de Santiago Frances

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Camino de Santiago Frances Traveler
Day 23: To León
June 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F
Saturday morning, I started off on what would be a 15 mile walk to Leon. So far, I’ve been really fortunate avoiding the common ailments that are common if not predictable with such long daily walks. I’ve only suffered one small blister. Unfortunately, shortly after starting out this morning a tightness/pain developed in my left shin. I walked/limped through a few little towns on the way in. Mantilla Mayor had me seeing spots when I briefly stopped there, and it also had another nice mural. I passed another bell tower that was home to massive stork nests and the “new” bridge into town. (It was built in 1778). I also met a new Camino family member (Sally Jo from Houston) that helped take my mind off my aching shin. By the time I made it onto Leon (it seems to take forever to get from the rural countryside into the heart of the big cities), I wasn’t sure if I would be able to continue without giving my ankle a day or two of rest. (The standard prescription for what I am pretty certain is a “shin splint” or tendonitis). I stopped by a Farmacia and picked up some Ibuprofen, stopped by a bar and had lunch and a Tinto de Verona (basically red wine and lemon soda) and then rested awhile in my albergue. I also confirmed with them that I would be able to stay an extra night or two if needed and would let them know in the morning. Before long I was getting restless and the local 400mg ibuprofen had kicked in so I walked to the Leon Cathedral (it was spectacular) where I ran into my Camino buddy Kelly. We walked around the old town, took touristy photos, and acted silly (it was a great distraction from my shin). We then met up with our friends Collin from Austin, Sunny from Amsterdam, George from London & Bryan from Australia, and another pilgrim for dinner. Afterwards I hobbled back to my albergue, got off my feet and was in bed by 7:30. Hopefully tomorrow I can continue onward…Read more
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Day 24: To Villar de Mazarife
June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F
On Sunday morning with the help of another 400mg Ibuprofen (sometimes referred to as “Vitamin I” by pilgrims) my ankle was feeling a bit better, so I decided to push on to Villar de Mazarife. I walked past more churches, past what appeared to be some hobbit holes and out of the bustle of Leon. After a while I was passing more beautiful wheat fields punctuated by red poppies and white daisys. Early in the day I ran across my Camino friend Lauren (American but living in Spain) and we walked together until I arrived at my albergue in Villar de Mazarife. Lauren continued walking as she still had several kilometers to go. After another 15-mile day my ankle was certainly not feeling any worse and perhaps a bit better so I’m confidant I’ll be able to continue tomorrow.Read more
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Day 25: To Astorga
June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
Today was a (maybe too) long day. I hiked a little over 22 miles to the town of Astorga. When I started out my left shin was feeling much better. By the time I arrived, my left and right shins were bothering me.
I started out from my albergue Tio Pepe about 7:30 this morning and didn’t arrive until nearly 7pm. Tomorrow I am going to do a much shorter day. Fortunately, there were several small towns on the way to stop and get a coffee or Aquarius (a non-carbonated electrolyte drink that taste great). I stopped for lunch at ‘Hospital de Órbigo’. It was one of the more interesting small towns I’ve walked through. Some of my Camino family that is several days ahead of me told me then they were here there was a big medieval fair with jousting and the evidence of the celebration was still apparent when I arrived today. It turns out every June they celebrate Don Suero’s Jousting tournament.

A little history…. In 1434 the knight Don Suero had his heart broken so he locked an iron collar around his neck and declared he would host a jousting tournament here during the two weeks leading up to Saint James Day. Nobles got behind the event and champions showed up to take his dare. At the end of the two weeks Don Suero prevailed after breaking the lances of 300 opponents. He declared himself the victor, and free of the bonds of love. He then made the pilgrimage to Santiago as a final gesture of his release.

The whole town has a very medieval feel with the medieval bridge and Templar and Maltese crosses and coats of armor displayed around town.
The trail continued past rusty dirt (rock) farms and fields. I stopped by one and shared a little baby-cow love. Near San Justo de la Vega there was a little donativo (donation based) oasis with fruit (watermelon!), snacks, juice, teas and even hammocks available.
About an hour later I topped a hill with a little rest spot and a view of Astorga in the distance. I stopped and got a wax seal sellos for my credential from a vendor and continued on to my destination for the evening.Read more
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Day 26: To Santa Catalina de Somoza
June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
After my (too) long day of walking yesterday, I decided on a nice easy less than 8-mile trek to the little village of Santa Catalina de Somoza for today. It should have been a pretty effortless trek, but my left leg shin started hurting more and again my right shin started having sympathy pains. Yep, I overdid it yesterday, so today I’m giving my body a break.
Due to the short day, I slept in, then went to touch on some of the highlights of Astorga. The Cathedral is spectacular. One nice thing they did on the tour is one rooms had 3dVR headsets you could put on and view portions of the Cathedral that are normally not accessible. It was very well done and quite cool. Next door to the Cathedral is the Gaudi Museum or Bishop’s palace so I took the tour there too.
After that, I headed back to the hotel to pick up my backpack and hiking poles to continue my journey. While there, I met the proprietor, Juan. His family has been living in that home/hotel for 11 generations. It’s a wonderful hotel and not an albergue, but this Peregrino needed a bit more comfort to make my feet and I feel better before the trek tomorrow. (Spoiler alert, there are mountains ahead…)
I stopped in the village of Murias de Rechivaldo for lunch. Lunch was good but I wish the bar across the street that is owned by some Italians had been open. I’m not sure about their food but I liked their decor outside with colorful flowers filling discarded boots. Then on to my Hostal in the cute but very small village of Santa Catalina to rest my feet.Read more
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Day 27: To El Acebo
June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 66 °F
Physically:
I’m definitely out of the Meseta…
For the past week or so I have been walking through what they call the Meseta. It’s basically a relatively flat agricultural region. Now that’s in my (metaphorical) rear view mirror as I’m back to climbing and descending mountains. In fact, today I passed the highest point on the entire Camino. While today’s assent and decent was not nearly as challenging as my first couple of days crossing the Pyrenees, I’m definitely not in Kansas…
Also, to play a little catch-up as payback for yesterday’s 10k day, today I did a long 30k trek. It made for a very long day, although after the fog/rain subsided it was a beautiful solitary hike on a trail through the woods with wildflowers all around.

Emotionally/Spiritually:
I was completely alone virtually all day hiking very rocky mountain trails often in the mist & rain. Plus, one of the best-known locations on the Camino; the “Cruz de Ferro” (Iron Cross) was on today’s hike. Physically, it’s just an iron cross on top of what looks like a telephone pole sticking out of a big pile of rocks.
Not being a “religious” guy, for me, the cross was not the most important part. The relevance was the rocks. The spiritual strength comes with the tradition that you leave a rock or a small memento behind to release a burden, or in memory of a loss or perhaps as a sign of a current love or devotion. It’s a tradition that has been repeated countless thousands of times as is evidenced by the many thousands of rocks people have carried from around the world to leave there.
I did all the above and am not ashamed to say mine were accompanied by free-flowing tears. (In my best Yoda voice); “Very strong the Force is there”. It’s a very ‘spiritual’ place and hard to not be moved.
Finally, I stumbled into my Albergue after 6pm and just crashed on my bunk until my 8:15 dinner time. Then enjoyed my three-course 15€ Peregrino dinner. Now I am in my bunk and ready for sleep.Read more
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Day 28: To Camponaraya
June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
It was a stunningly beautiful morning as I left my albergue in El Acebo and headed for Camponaraya. I turned around on the way up the first hill and turned back to take a pic of last night’s albergue. It was a big albergue, I believe they actually had a gym and offered massages but unfortunately after yesterday’s 30k hike, I arrived too late to enjoy them. (Although I can’t really imagine wanting to go to a gym after spending all day hiking, however a massage would have been great!)
I walked through the village of Ponferrada and stopped for a coffee before continuing through the village of Molinaseca then into the big city of Ponferrada where I had a great lunch across from a giant Templar castle. It was undoubtedly the most ‘castlely’ looking castle I’ve ever seen! Then on through urban then rural neighborhoods before (finally) arriving at my albergue in Camponaraya.
Albergues vary pretty drastically in the number of beds and the amenities they offer. This one was nice with large outdoor and indoor areas to enjoy a meal or a cerveza or a vino tinto or vino blanco. While sitting on the patio, I met Victor from Holland. His warm open personality reminded me a great deal of “Joost from Holland” in the movie “The Way”.
Tomorrow, I have another 25k to go to Trabadelo where I’m excited to be staying at Casa Susi. It’s an albergue I heard about months ago due to their great reputation and I’m looking forward to it.Read more
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Day 29: To Trabadelo
June 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
I left Camponaraya and it wasn’t long before it was obvious, I was back in a wine region. The surrounding vineyards made for a beautiful hike. Before 10am, I was in the town of Cacabelos and stoped for a cup of coffee, then continued past more vineyards before walking through the city of Villafranca del Bierzo and then on to Trabadelo for the night. My albergue in Trabadelo; “Casa Susi” was the only albergue I booked literally months in advance because of the wonderful things I had heard about their place and hospitality. It was a treat! Additionally, it was a great surprise when I discovered that four of my Camino family were also staying there! Tomorrow I’m on to O’Cebreiro, the last mountain I need to climb on the Camino.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Frances Traveler
Day 30: To O’Cebrerio
June 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
Most would say, the second most difficult part of the Camino Francés is the hike up to O’Cebreiro. I would agree. However, if the weather cooperates it is beautiful at the top. My morning started off under an overcast sky and sure enough, after a while, the rain started falling and the poncho came out. Before then I was able to take a few photos in La Portela de Valcarce and Vega de Valcarce where I had coffee and breakfast. Then the rain came shortly before the real climb started to O’Cebreiro. Most of the climb itself was on a steep muddy, rocky path punctuated by little poobombs the horses (that some folks use for the climb) had left behind. There really are no photos of that section because my hands were firmly attached to my hiking poles and my eyes were watching where I needed to step.
At one point near the top there was a sweet Spanish lady that had been collecting these really pretty orange mushrooms. The rain stopped and a few minutes later we officially entered Galicia.
O’Cebriero turned out to be a really cute vibrant (tourist) town. It was especially rewarding because I kept running into various “pilgrim family” members that I had not seen in days or weeks. Because of various factors you meet folks and walk with them, and you may end up together for a day or more and then may or may not see them again for days, weeks or ever. It’s always nice when you do.
Tomorrow I’m off to Triacastela (down the other side of the mountain).Read more
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Day 31: To Triacastela
June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
Today was a beautiful day. It started with a reunion of more long-lost Camino family for breakfast then on the trail. Amish Emma (she isn’t Amish, it’s a long story) was on a quest for a 4-leaf clover amongst the clover patches on the trail as we left O’Cebreiro. That started a quest for the rest of us that started off walking together that morning.
I’m happy to say I found one 🍀 then, and another while walking alone later. I’m told that about 1 in 10,000 ☘️ are 🍀. I believe all of us in that group found at least one.
Actually though, today the flowers de jour were daisies. There were fields with gazillions of them.
At one point along the trail in the mountains there were a group of cows (bulls?) grazing directly on the trail. I just walked by and spoke softly to them hoping they were not in training for the running of the bulls in Pamplona…
Finally, after a really beautiful hike I made it to Triccastela, changed into my crocks to give my feet a break and joined some friends for a vino tinto before a nice quiet dinner of paella.
Tomorrow, I walk to Sarria and the Camino will undergo what I anticipate to be a pretty drastic change.
About 70% of those that do the Camino start in Sarria. It’s a very popular starting point so the trails will become substantially more crowded.Read more
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Day 32: To Sarria.
June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
This morning I started my hike walking with Terry, his granddaughter Emma (aka Amish Emma) and her partner Jack and then later joined by (Irish) Emma and Alice.
There is a giant scallop shell fuente (water fountain) on the trail that pretty much everyone must get an obligatory photo with. Afterwards, when we arrived at the little village of Montán I was really wanting another cup of coffee or perhaps a snack, but there were no bars, only a ‘24 hour’ vending machine with a beautiful blue-eyed cat watching over it and searching for affection. I bought a rather unsatisfying candy bar and resigned that I would wait until the next village to get something better to eat and drink. Then, just as we were leaving the little village, we ran across this very cool lounging and meditative space. There was a table of food (all Donativo (you just donate what you can)). There was a little musical space with guitars, percussion instruments and a ukulele), a room with hammocks and more. A young woman even offered to make us coffee and then served it to us. It was pretty amazing!
After sitting for a while, I was ready to get back on the trail before Emma or Alice so I moved on ahead.
Today’s trail was a great combination of open fields with views of the surrounding mountains and heavily wooded womb like trails.
I finally made it into the town of Sarria (where they had mosaic shells decorating the sidewalks) and after dropping of off my backpack in my room, I went on a quest for a nearby laundromat and dinner. After my clothes were clean and my tummy was full, it was time for bed and then tomorrow I head off to Portomarin.Read more
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Day 33: To Portomarin
June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F
I walked out of Sarria shortly after sunrise accompanied by throngs of young people….
I admittedly had a certain trepidation about how the Camino would change after Sarria knowing so many new pilgrims would be joining the Camino.
To receive the official documentation that you have done the pilgrimage to Santiago, you have to prove you have walked the last 100k or biked the last 200k to Santiago. Since Sarria is just over the 100k mark it’s a very popular place for an official start, therefore over 70% of official Compostela walkers skip the first 700k, and just start their Camino in Sarria. I passed the official 100k to Santiago marker today around lunchtime.
And so… starting in Sarria there is substantially more noise and especially more young people.
My day did start off really busy however it was really fun talking to all the young people. One group of kids that were all around 15 doing a summer school trip presented me with a small tote bag with their school logo and wanted a photo with me. I’m not sure if it was because I had already walked 700k, or they thought I was really old and perhaps they should get a photo now because I may not make it to the end….
A little later while having coffee I met Mario. He is 74 and has walked 11 Camino’s. Wow! A bit later on the trail, I ran into him, and he told me he was watching me walk and I should not hunch over so much and keep my head looking further down the path. I’ve been working on it, but old habits die hard…. Thank you, Mario.
Although the trails were more crowded, there is some universal slinky rule that dictates the ebb and flow of crowds. You can always walk between the crowded sections or walk in them. It’s all a matter of pacing yourself. So, all in all it was a beautiful day surrounded by periods of silence alternating with throngs of new peregrinos discovering the joys and aches of the Camino.
By the time I arrived in Portomarín I was in dire need of a toilet. I crossed the big bridge over the river to discover a large flight of stairs as my final challenge before I could find a baño and a cerveza. Glad I made it….
Tomorrow to Palas de Rei…Read more
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Day 34: To Palas di Rei
June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F
It was a foggy morning…
As has become my routine I started my walk shortly before 8am and proceeded over the bridge leaving Portomarin headed to Palas de Rei.
Galicia (the area in Spain where I’m currently walking) is truly beautiful. Lots of greenery, flowers and of course, more quaint villages. Today about 80% of the Camino was on (mostly) tree covered trails and the remainder was on small country roads. In proportion to the increased number of Peregrinos there are more independent vendors set up on the trail. Some selling their crafts, some like a woman Miriam, just collecting stories from pilgrims about their Camino.
One of my favorite stops of the day was an ancient Pagan site that was inhabited from about the fourth century BC, to the start of the Roman occupation. The somewhat surprising thing is although not visible from the trail, it was marked with a plaque and only about 400 feet off the Camino. Still in their quest to get to their destination virtually no one took the (very) short path to the site. They walked by totally unaware of its existence.
It was pretty cool to be walking around exploring the (fairly small) spaces where people were living and working twenty-five hundred years ago.
My tiny Camino perspective is how many people or things do we pass by unaware every day, missing that with a little focus they may have an effect on us.
Today was a fairly long day at just over 26km (or just over 16 miles) and I was hot and tired by the time I arrived in Palis de Rei. After dropping off my backpack it was great to run into a group of my Camino family for dinner.
Tomorrow to RibadisoRead more
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Day 35: To Ribidiso.
June 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F
Almost there… only two nights to Santiago! Today was a long (over 30k) hot day. The guidebooks showed a 26k day (which my feet will tell you is already pushing my limits) but they, well, lied. Don’t get me wrong, it was a beautiful hike. Just long, and by the time I arrived, hot.
Before leaving town there was a nice pilgrim statue helping to point the way. (Not that there is any doubt.)
Today I met new people, walked alone, and reconnected with some, including a friend that was Dorothy’s and my roommate the first night we arrived in St Jean Pied de Port before beginning our Camino. Today’s walk included periods of young exuberance, periods with only the birds singing, and a few minutes to stop and listen to some nice Spanish guitar.
Tomorrow, to O Pedrouzo.Read more
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Day 36: To O Pedrouzo
June 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F
As I’ve gotten closer to Santiago the trails have been busier and there have been more crafts people and vendors along the trails with a sellos (stamp for your pilgrim’s passport) marketing their wares. It’s not at all like you are walking through a crafts fair, but you will usually pass something to capture your attention every hour or two.
I ended up running into my friend Tracy this morning and we walked together the entire day. Tracy is a pocket-sized force of nature that walks substantially faster than my normal pace, but the great conversation and the excitement that tonight was my last stop before Santiago took my mind off our faster speed, and it was great getting into my destination for the day much earlier than I would have at my normal turtle 🐢… pace. It was almost a 24k day, but it went by really fast. More Hórreos (interesting, elevated grain storage buildings that are unique to Galicia) on the trail today as well as more beautiful fields and tiny villages along with one fairly good-sized town (Arzúa). The early arrival at O Pedrouzo was nice and I met up with a group of Camino family from South Africa, the UK and New Zealand that had been crossing paths with me for a few days. Finally, later I met up with Bryan and Marta that have become part of my core Camino family.
Tomorrow, I know will be very bittersweet. I will walk into Santiago which will mark the end of my Camino de Santiago Francés.
I will finally be able to fly home and rejoin my wife and family that I have been missing for weeks. I will also be leaving behind such wonderful friends that have become my Camino family through our shared joys and challenges. Still the memories will remain.
Until then, tomorrow to Santiago!Read more
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Camino de Santiago Frances Traveler
Day 37: To Santiago!
June 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
The Way.
In a logical sense, today was like any of the other 37 days I have been walking from Saint-Jean-Pied-du-Port France to Santiago. Just another 20-kilometer (12 mile) day of my 800k (500 mile) journey. A little shorter than most, a walk-through villages and cities, through fields, on paths and roads, leading to a destination.
Below, I’ve posted photos of what I saw during the last 20k. They say little about what I experienced excepting the photos of my Camino family I met along the way. I started the day walking with Traci from San Diego that was practically sprinting knowing her husband had flown over and would be meeting her when she walked into Santiago.
Thank you, Dorothy, for accompanying me for the first 11 days of my Camino adventure and the travel days in Paris and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port France. It was great just spending time with you. What really made the Camino such a memorable experience was so much more than the walk and the Spanish countryside. What makes the Camino so special is the connections you make along the trail. There are too many to mention them all, but hank you Rebekah from Australia. Dorothy and I met her in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port over a month ago and she made it a point to greet me as I walked into the Santiago Plaza. Thank you, Cecilia, Bryan & Marta & George, Linda, Collin and (Irish) Emma. Thank you, Sally Jo, Kelly, Alice & Aurelie. Terry, (Amish) Emma and Jack. Thank you, Peter, Jono, Escher and their family. Thank you, Klaus, Elena, Victor, Lauren, Katarina & Julia, Karen, Ingegerd, Nayhouy, Mike & Barb, Natalie, Mina, Eva, Sudah, Sunny, and so, so many more.
As humans, we are driven often more by emotions and feelings than logic. At least for me, that is definitely the case, and I would consider that a good thing. Therefore, today was so much more.
The Camino, “The Way” is more than just a really long walk from France through Spain. Some believe it’s some magic meridian lines along the route that give healing powers. Christian’s have walked the route for over 1000 years to show devotion to St James the Apostle. Many say the route was walked long before that. All I know is it is a unique experience. I believe that beyond the infrastructure (albergues, yellow arrows (everywhere) and well-maintained pathways), it’s the people like those mentioned above that choose to walk the walk. Perhaps because of the shared experiences and pain, connections are quickly formed. The people are virtually never judgmental, kindness is omnipresent. It’s the way I want to be. It’s the way I want the world to be. I want us all to be seeking the same destination.

That being said, today I walked into Santiago.
This journey has ended.
I will carry my memories of the quiet moments, the wonderful moments walking with my sister and the many wonderful people that enriched my journey with me. Always.
I believe carrying these experiences will help me enrich those around me.
My feet are tired. My heart is full.
The journey continues.

Postscript…
I started the Camino on May 12th, 2023, from St Jean Pied de Port France and walked into main Cathedral square of Santiago de Compostela Spain on the early afternoon of June, 17th 2023.
According to my Fitbit I walked:
37 Days
1,370,946 Steps
956. Kilometers
597. Miles

And…
Those statistics are a relatively insignificant part of the journey.Read more
TravelerWell penned! Thank you for sharing. The feeling of arrival and completion and... Loss? Is difficult to put into words
7/14/23Reply
Wow…amazing journal. Love it! 😃 [Deb]
8/28/23Reply
TravelerThank you
8/28/23Reply
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Pilgrim’s Passport
June 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
This is my Pilgrims’s Passport (or Credential) that I got stamped at albergues, hostels, or hotels where I stayed as well as bars, cafes, and cathedrals to document my Camino across Spain for the official pilgrim’s office in Santiago.
It also makes for a great keepsake!Read more
TravelerIt's fun to see so many stamps I recognize
7/15/23Reply
Yes it brings back wonderful memories! [Cecilia]
7/16/23Reply
TravelerLOVE your story. What wonderful memories
2/2/25Reply
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Trip end
June 17, 2023