Ḩayy al ‘Adlīyah

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    • Day 123

      Amman 2

      December 5, 2019 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Dernière journée en Jordanie. Aux très belles ruines de Qasr al Abad on tombe sur un relief de panthère effarouchée et on profite du fait que le lieu soit désert pour rentrer dans le château. On est contents comme des gamins qui ont volé des pommes. Sur le retour à Amman, Khalid tourne autour d'un pont un peu atypique pour lui tirer le portrait. Au très beau Jordan Museum on reprend l'histoire de la région depuis les premiers bifaces, comme une conclusion avant de partir.Read more

    • Day 23

      From Cairo to Amman

      January 12, 2023 in Jordan ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

      We had an easy last morning in Egypt 🇪🇬. We had to be out of our room by 12 but we weren't being picked up for the airport until 1.30pm so we decided to have lunch sitting by the pool. Big mistake!! I ordered pizza 🍕 which arrived raw and doughy and Mark had cold, chewy chips with his chicken sandwich 🥪. I wish we hadn't bothered! 😂

      Our driver was 10 minutes late picking us up but he more than made up the time on the way to the airport! We've had some hair-raising rides while we've been in Egypt but this guy was off the chart! I decided it was safer not to look out of the front window so kept my eyes fixed firmly to the side. Suddenly, my view was blocked 🚫 by a 6 foot high wall inches from my face! I was somewhat alarmed!! It's a good job we're not nervous passengers!! 😂

      Anyway, we reached the airport in record time so were easily able to go through the multiple security checks before our flight ✈. We thought we had been through them all so used the rest of our Egyptian cash to buy some drinks - only to have them confiscated at the final checkpoint at the boarding date! Oh well!!

      Our flight ✈ was a little delayed so we watched the sunset 🌇 from the departure lounge and then took off in the dark. It was only a 1 hour 15 minute flight ✈ but they served a full meal!! We had cheese, smoked chicken, salad 🥗 and a roll followed by a KitKat and a mango 🥭 juice! No sooner had they served it, they were rushing back down the plane to take away the rubbish! 😂

      We landed in Amman and were on stand and getting off in record time. The visa on arrival process was very straightforward. We had to wait a while for our luggage 🧳 so I was able to sort out some Jordanian currency.

      Once through customs, we had an encounter with a dodgy taxi guy. Luckily, we spotted the official airport taxi firm and extricated ourselves from the clutches of the scammers!! We had a very nice driver who took us straight to our hotel 🏨 and didn't try to rip us off!

      First impressions of Amman are that it is incredibly clean and well ordered compared to Cairo. We only saw normal cars 🚗 on the way in from the airport (no horse and carts or tuk-tuks!) and the drivers mostly seemed to be following the rules of the road!

      From what we have seen so far, the hotel 🏨 is a typical joining hotel for an Intrepid tour - not the best, but it will do! 😂
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    • Day 24

      25,000 steps around Amman

      January 13, 2023 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

      We were up quite early, even though we didn't need to be! We noticed the difference in temperature overnight. It's a good few degrees colder here than it was in Cairo. We slept with the supplied two-bar electric fire 🔥 on full and were still pretty chilly!

      Breakfast was served in the bar and it turned out it that there are just us and a single guy staying in the hotel 🏨 at the moment! It was cold in the bar. Note to self: wear a jacket tomorrow! 😂 We had no choice about what to eat. We were each served a plate of vegetables, cheese, and cooked meat, a large bowl of hummus, an equally large bowl of cream cheese, a plain omelette, a basket of bread 🍞, and a selection of jams. The only thing we were missing was coffee ☕!! We asked for some and were served a cup of Turkish coffee each. The waiter seemed surprised when we finished it and asked for another one! The food was good, although there was far too much. We hate waste so have asked for half as much tomorrow!

      We had pre-booked a walking tour of the city at 12 noon and a food tour at 5pm today so we're in no rush to leave the room. Consequently, the housekeeping team (2 lads in jeans, sweatshirts, and baseball ⚾️ caps worn back-to-front) came knocking a couple of times. Eventually, we let them in 😀. They were in and out in less than a minute!

      We left the hotel at about 10.30 and made our way downtown. I hadn't realised that Amman is built on seven hills so there were a lot of very steep slopes and steps to negotiate! On the way down, I spotted a mosaic workshop and stopped to have a chat with the guy inside. Everyone we met today was so friendly!

      We were struck by the amount of street art 🎨 we saw. As we got to the downtown area, it was very busy but had a really nice feel about it. Our walking tour guide, Abdallah, messaged us to say he was already at our meeting point, the Grand Husseini Mosque. We were close by, so we started our tour at 11, not 12.

      Here are some photos of street art. I will post about the walking tour in my next footprint 👣.
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    • Day 26

      More steps in Amman!

      January 15, 2023 in Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

      We didn't see any of our fellow travellers at breakfast this morning. There must have been other people in the hotel as they had set up the full buffet - but we didn't see a soul! It was like the Marie Celeste!

      We left the hotel 🏨 at about 10 to walk 🚶‍♀️ to the Citadel. This meant walking all the way down to downtown and then all the way up to the citadel which was built on the next of Amman's seven hills!

      At least there were interesting things to look at on the way and, once we got half way up to the citadel, we were on eye level with our hotel!

      At the top of the hill, the views of the western side of the city were amazing!
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    • Day 26

      A Visit to Amman Citadel

      January 15, 2023 in Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      The trek up the hill was definitely worth it - and not just for the views! Amman Citadel was so much more than we had expected and we happily spent a few hours there.

      The citadel is a large archaeological site built on one of the seven hills that make up modern Amman. It has a long history of occupation by many great civilizations. There is evidence of human habitation since the Neolithic period and it is clear that the hill was fortified during the Bronze Age (1800 BC). It became the capital of the Kingdom of Ammon sometime after 1200 BC. Later, it came under the control of empires such as the Neo-Assyrian (800 BC), the Neo- Babylonian (600 BC), the Roman (1st century BC), the Byzantine (3rd century AD) and the Umayyads (7th century AD). After this, the citadel went into decline and became an abandoned pile of ruins used by Bedouins and farmers. Despite this, the Citadel of Amman is considered to be among the world's oldest continuously inhabited places.

      Most of the structures still visible at the site are from the Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad periods. These include the Temple of Hercules built by the Romans in the 2nd century AD, a Byzantine church, and the Umayyad Palace. The latter, known in Arabic as al-Qasr, was probably used as an administrative building or the residence of an Umayyad official. It draws on Byzantine architectural patterns. The magnificent entrance hall is built in the shape of a Greek cross. The domed roof has recently been restored with the help of the Spanish government. Whether the result is an accurate representation of the original structure is debatable. Nevertheless, it is an impressive example of craftsmanship in its own right.

      Also on site is the Jordan Archaeological Museum. It was built in 1951 and used to house the Dead Sea Scrolls which are now on display in the new Jordan Museum that we visited yesterday. There are still some interesting exhibits but you feel it's only a matter of time before all the remaining artefacts are moved to the new facility and it closes its doors completely.

      Despite the fact that archaeologists from Jordan, Italy, Spain, France, and the UK have been working at the site since the 1920s, a great part of the Citadel remains unexcavated.

      I will attach photos 📸 of the Temple of Hercules to this footprint and do subsequent posts for the Umayyad Palace and the Jordan Archaeological Museum.
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    • Day 1


      March 2, 2023 in Jordan ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

      Cittadella archeologica di Amman. Una serie di rovine degli ammoniti, romane, cristiane, arabe, tutte costruite l'una sull'altra sul cucuzzolo di una collina nel bel mezzo della città, un teatro romano impressionante subito sotto. Da qui partiva la strada romana per Damasco, Istanbul, l'Europa. La guida parla, parla, lanciandoci nel contempo però degli sguardi fulminanti che ci inducono al silenzio. Magari è una nostra impressione; ad ogni buon conto facciamo solo sì sì con la testa. Dopo un buon quarto d'ora Erika azzarda: e quella moschea lì? Lui la guarda e sbotta: signorina (!), se non mi lascia parlare non le dico niente. Gelo. Non fiatiamo più. Un buon inizio 😂

      Per fortuna il primo giordano che incontriamo si rivelerà l'unico non molto... amichevole. E altrettanto per fortuna, la cittadella è talmente interessante per capire la Giordania che anche se avesse tentato di picchiarci durante la spiegazione (e non mi avrebbe stupito 😅) ne sarebbe valsa la pena lo stesso. E' il nostro primo assaggio di medio oriente, del mondo levantino, e qui si respira tanta storia: egizi, romani, ebrei, cristiani, arabi sciiti, arabi sunniti; e poi un’accelerazione dalla seconda guerra mondiale in poi, profughi di tutte le zone di conflitto che circondano la Giordania, e sono tante: Libano, Siria, Palestina, Iraq, 5 milioni di profughi (secondo la guida), metà popolazione del paese, che si sono stabiliti qui e ora sono giordani. Come dice il sito del nostro ministero, eufemisticamente: la Giordania "costituisce un elemento di stabilità all’interno di una regione particolarmente instabile". Come dice un'amica, eccellente conoscitrice della zona: la Giordania si basa sui conflitti che la circondano.

      Amman non è una bella città, ma impressiona. Va capita, e si capisce solo guardando a tutta quella storia da cui discende, e probabilmente per conoscerla veramente non basta una vita. Arrampicata su colli ripidissimi, palazzoni bianco-panna costruiti uno sopra l'altro e inframmezzati da moschee, sospesi nell'aria polverosa di sabbia del deserto (che viene da sud, dall'Arabia Saudita). Bambini che giocano in strada. Un mercato rumorosissimo, pieno - come in Marocco del resto - di spezie, ma sono spezie diverse qui. Un sacco di gente, alcuni sorridenti, altri no, tutti però generalmente rispettosi; donne velate ma anche molte ragazze senza velo; negozi che hanno in vetrina adesivi con la scritta "Palestina" in diverse declinazioni di sostegno. Ristoranti mediorientali, iracheni, egiziani; caffè, tè, pasticcerie.

      E alla fine, com'è Amman? Non saprei. Ripeto, non stupisce per bellezza. Ma stupisce per molto altro: esiste, e parla, e va secondo noi conosciuta, anche perché con tre ore di volo dall'Italia - probabilmente sulla strada per Petra - si ha la possibilità di tuffarsi in un mondo con regole totalmente diverse, un mondo che si sente troppo spesso ai telegiornali ma probabilmente va capito partendo dalla vita della gente. Ne vale sicuramente la pena.
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    • Day 1

      Salam Aleikum Amman

      March 13, 2023 in Jordan ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

      Wir sind angekommen!
      Und endlich verdient sich dieser Reisebericht seinen Namen.

      Am Flughafen angekommen wurden wir von Hussam abgeholt. Hussam ist der Schwager von meinem Arbeitskollegen Ahmad und hat sich fürsorglich um uns gekümmert :))
      Erst ging es Geld wechseln und eine SIM Karte besorgen und dann natürlich Falafel und Hummus essen.
      Zum Hotel gebracht hat er uns auch noch.

      Wir residieren für die ersten zwei Nächte am Paris Square. Von hier aus ist der Weg nach Downtown Amman nicht weit.
      Das seht ihr dann im nächsten Beitrag. Bleibt also dran ;)
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    • Day 122

      Amman 1

      December 4, 2019 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      Nous arrivons à Amman après une longue route (attention passages fréquents de dromadaires) et nous rendons sur le site de la grotte des Sept Dormeurs. On y trouve une grotte sculptée et des tombeaux byzantins. Le père de Khalid est particulièrement ému de pouvoir la visiter. Ensuite nous montons à la citadelle d'Amman où se mélangent ruines romaines, omeyyades, et vue à 360° sur la ville.Read more

    • Day 2

      Goooood morning Amman!

      October 21, 2021 in Jordan ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      That's it for now. So amazing to fly and travel again! Last trip was India about two years ago, I soooo need this. Airplanes, covid tests, QR codes, visas,... Jordan, baby! 😎
      No way in hell I could drive to this hostel by myself, Amman is a maze. And the view is just awesome. Just standing here, watching the sunrise over the city. So nice. And just got greeted and waved by two lovely little girls who just went to school (bags bigger then them, of course) and tried to catch some scared kitten on the way. Random big city life is just ❤️Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Ḩayy al ‘Adlīyah, Hayy al `Adliyah, حي العدلية

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