• Ladyandtramp
jan. – mar. 2024

Andalucia, Spain

The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.
— Saint Augustine
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  • Soller Valley - Fornalutx & Biniaraix

    20.–26. jan. 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Goodbye Valencia and on to Mallorca Island.

    I had checked out prices and travel times for both the ferries and airplanes to Mallorca, and flying to Mallorca won. I paid $50 each and it was a 1 hour flight. The ferry would have taken 8 overnight hours and cost $60 each. It was a no brainer.

    We took a direct-to-airport subway, from a station close to our apartment (so convenient), and arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare. Our plane took off at 5 and landed at 6 p.m. easy.

    We arrived in the big Palma airport and it took us a bit of time to find our rental car shuttle to the Wiber office. Finally, we got our car, a small Fiat (for $50 Cdn for 6 days!), put on the GPS and drove to Soller where we are staying. The road was good and people drove in a decent manner. Parking in Soller is a problem though with its narrow streets.

    Our hotel room is in a very old stone building that only has 6 rooms. Third generation Margarita runs it now. Originally we had a room with a shared bathroom but there was a cancellation and we got a room with a private bathroom - no extra charge…Yay. We have a kettle for tea and coffee and our refrigerator is on the window sill between the window and the shutters.

    The room reminds me of a room in my grandmother’s house, years ago. Old-fashioned heavy wooden furniture with inlay, four post bed, a wardrobe, ruffled bed spread, a couple of chairs. It’s clean and once again in a great location, close to the centre but quiet. We slept well after a quick dinner in a restaurant nearby.

    This morning, we had coffees in a bakery and a pastry called an ensaimada, a delicate, spiral-shaped puff pastry covered in icing sugar. There are lots of early morning bakeries open here!

    So what did we do on a Sunday in Sollar (sounds like Tom “Sawyer”) Mallorca? We walked.

    The Soller Valley is one of the main hiking spots in Mallorca. It is a beautiful natural spot with fields of olive trees, lemon and orange trees, quaint hamlets and villages and magnificent views out over the Mediterranean – all nestled in the Serra de Tramuntana Mountain range.

    The circular walk that we went on today left from the town of Soller and took us about 4 1/2 hours. It’s not that long of a walk but we took a side trip to the beautiful town of Fornalutx. It was such a peaceful landscape with old stone houses and walls, steep mountains, a river running through the valley, and orchards.

    Today is a special day when Mallorcans celebrate Sant Antoni, the Patron Saint of Animals, People from all over Mallorca get together to remember the customs of the countryside and the life of the farmer and labourers.

    We arrived in Fornalutx at 10 a.m. and noticed that a street was being blocked off by the police and people were headed to it. Then over 25 horses turned up to parade themselves and their riders in all their finery and race against one another up the main street. They gallop and each rider tries to grab ribbons that have been strung across the road above their heads, to the loud cheers of the crowds. We were in the right place and at the right time to witness this old custom. It was very exciting!

    This pretty town is nestled in the Sóller Valley and has about 700 residents. It dates back to the 13th century and was originally an Arab farmstead. It's filled with narrow alleys, steep stone steps (yes, we just had to go up them to see where they went!) and alleyways with flowerpots. Its beautiful high mountain setting made us feel like we were walking around a fairy tale town from a movie.

    Coming home, we took a different route through a small, quiet town called Biniaraix. I read that it had been a Muslim stronghold and the name comes from Ben-Arraiz, son of the sea captain. “The traditional stone washstands at the entrance to the Barranc de Biniaraix ravine are a remarkable feature of the village. These were used as late as the 20th century. In the plaza and close to the church of Immaculada Concepció there are ancient houses with painted tiles under the eaves, traditionally used to ward off bad spirits, issue warnings, tell stories and so on.” Biniaraix is the starting point for many hiking trails including one to a gorge and another to an ancient monastery (almost 2000 steps).

    We walked the short distance to the busy town of Soller in no time.

    Wouldn’t you know but Soller was also celebrating in a similar way at 4 pm. Soller is a bigger town so they started with a parade to the main square. Musicians playing bagpipes, fifes and drums started the parade, followed by children dressed as devils with grotesque masks, and then people with their pets.

    The local priest in the name of San Antoni distributes a blessing to the animals and throws holy water on any animal that turns up. They could be dogs, cats, ferrets, rats, snakes, goats, sheep, baby donkey or chickens. The parade goes on for quite some time as the priest takes his job very seriously!

    Once the blessings were done, the square was cleared, the beautiful horses of the Soller Valley started their horse races and we went to a restaurant on the square for an early dinner.

    Our first full day in Mallorca was a good one! Tomorrow we are heading to the Port of Soller.
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  • The San Antoni Festival Photos

    21. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    Just a note about traditional Mallorcan musical instruments. The musical groups can be as simple as having several sizes of drums or xeremies (bagpipes), flabiol (5 hole flute) and tamborí (small drum) or more complex with the addition of bandúrria (similar to a lute), guitarrós (small guitars), violins, castanets, and triangles. There´s also the musical curiosity called the ximbomba, a type of friction drum, small versions are often on sale to tourists.Læs mere

  • Port de Soller

    22. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    After yesterday’s walk, we decided to do something a little different. We read that no visit to Sóller is complete without a trip to the Port de Sóller, so our day started with a tram ride to the port. Lucky for us, the 100+ year old tram (1913] was running today, for the first time after a few weeks of maintenance work.

    Some cities in the world, such as Lisbon, San Francisco or Melbourne, are famous for their historic tramways still in circulation. The one in Sóller is a little different in that it joins the inland mountain town of Sóller to the sea port and beach in a half hour trip.

    The tram, besides transporting passengers, has also been used to transport boxes of fish from the docks to the market or oranges to the ships that sailed to the French ports in the past. It also carried vegetables from the orchards to the town and coal and war materials to the naval base located in the Port of Sóller.

    We were the only ones to board the wooden tram at 10 a.m. and we enjoyed the short trip to the beautiful harbour. The sun was shining and the scenery around the harbour was stunning.

    Since it is off season here, there was no one on the promenade. We pretty well had the place to ourselves. We spent a few hours just walking around the port, checking out the boats and taking the stairs up to a monastery with great views of the bay as well as the sea.
    Most places were closed for the season so it was a peaceful and beautiful place to be. Not sure what it would be like in high season!

    Chris took his socks and shoes off and walked in the water. Refreshing but not overly cold.

    We decided to walk back to town. It took us about 1+ hour but it was an easy walk through the valley.
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  • Ensaimada and other Mallorcan Foods

    23. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Mallorcan cuisine, that is based on pork, fish and vegetables with a generous use of garlic and olive oil, is hearty peasant fare “steeped in tradition and rooted in local ingredients”.

    We didn’t eat out a lot but when we did, we enjoyed the prawns in garlic sauce, the clams in tomato sauce and the fried octopus. So good.

    They also have something that we tried and liked called patatas bravas, or spicy potatoes.
    It is probably the most popular Spanish tapa, made of crispy fried potatoes that are tossed with salsa brava or bravas sauce. It's really the sauce that gives these potatoes the delicious slightly spicy and smoky flavor and distinguishes them from any other fried potatoes that we tried.

    Ultimately, the ensaimada is an incredibly simple pastry that's made out of rolling up a flattened piece of dough and shaping it into a circle. Then, they're baked quickly and topped with powdered sugar before being served. People eat it for breakfast and sometimes it is topped with apricots. It is Mallorca's most famous pastry and a very popular souvenir. We saw a lot of people carrying big boxes with ensaimadas on the
    flight to Malaga.

    We also tried the Malorcan empanadas and meat pie. It used to be made with lamb meat, but today sobrasada (a typical Mallorcan sausage made of lard and paprika) is added to the filling. The dish is found everywhere on the island and works as a meal or a snack. It’s perfect for taking on a day trip as it works as a sandwich. Not our favourite but it was okay.

    Apparently, there is a vegetable stew like Ratatouille called Tombet that is made on the island but we didn’t have a chance to try that out. Sounded and looked good.
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  • Road Trip - Soller to Cape Formentor

    23. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    “From royals like Prince Rainier of Monaco or Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria, to celebrities past and present such as Charles Chaplin or Leonardo Di Caprio. All of them fell in love with Mallorca in their day, leaving a little piece of their soul behind them on the island for all eternity.”

    We have done a lot of walking so far and have not used the rental car for 2 days so we are going on a 50 km road trip from Soller through the UNESCO World Heritage Tramuntana Mountains to the northern point of the island (Cape Formentor) where there is a stunning lookout over the Mediterranean, the Mirador es Colomer.

    The road that we took through the mountains was a good one but narrow and filled with curves, but Chris did a great job staying focussed and driving at a good speed. Whoever planned the road did a good job of including spots where the road widened so people could get out of their vehicles, have a break from driving on the winding road and could enjoy checking out the views. The landscape is truly postcard-worthy and with unforgettable views.

    We passed a wildlife reserve and a huge water reservoir, lost our phone connection a few times and had to be careful when rounding a corner and seeing sheep or goats on the road! I kept thinking of my brother’s sheep in a garbage bin story! Ugh.

    Cyclists use this road for races also. It would be very challenging. We talked to a 67 year old man from Alabama who was in a cyclists camp and cycling the route. Amazing.

    At one point, we arrived at a monastery, Lluc, high in the mountains and surrounded by a pine and oak forest.

    Legend has it that in the 13th century a Moorish shepherd boy, newly converted to Christianity, discovered a dark wooden statue of the Virgin in a cleft in the rock. The image was placed in the local church but three times it returned miraculously to its cave, whereupon the villagers recognised this as a message from God so a small chapel was built on the exact spot where the discovery. Historically it was an important place of pilgrimage and is still a key religious site on the island. These days, as well as the chapel, there is a shop, restaurant, and a museum, and you can stay in one of the 100 rooms created from the old monk’s cells. Cyclists and hikers use this spot as a meeting place as there are many trails that start here.

    Continuing onwards, we arrived at the towns of Pollenca and Formenta, where many famous people have either stayed in the Formentor Hotel or have Mallorca villas. Some of the famous guests include Charlie Chaplin, F Scott Fitzgerald, Sir Lawrence Olivier and Sir Peter Ustinov.

    We finally got to our destination - the Mirador es Colomer with its magnificent cliffs and views of the sea. There's a well looked after stone walk on the edge of the sea, built right on top of the steep cliff, that allow us to move around the viewpoint and take in all the different angles of the scenery. Vertigo played a small part in being in this spot! Chris can attest to that, haha. At the end of the path there were some rounded terraces that we could walk around and enjoy the views. There was a winding road leading to an old tower that was high upon a cliff but we decided that the view from our high point was high enough. Lol.

    Heading home through the medieval town of Alcudia and then down the middle of the island on a straight highway was a good way to end the road trip. Easy and quick.

    All in all a good day - a break from walking and … Chris’ arms got a good workout from driving on those winding roads.

    Note - We are happy that we thought of bringing our Isotoner slippers. The tile floors in most houses here are cold and these slippers are perfect - warm, lightweight, washable and easy to pack. A traveller’s staple. Lol. Ad over.
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  • Deia, Valdemossa and a Bike Race

    24. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Soller, Deia, and Valldemossa are three of the most beautiful towns in the area and because of that many rich and famous people have secondary houses in them.

    Just a short twenty minutes drive from Sóller, on a winding road with great views, and directly at the foot of the Tramuntana mountains, is the small, dreamy village of Deiá. Narrow, picturesque streets wind their way up between olive groves, bougainvilleas, and palm trees. The beauty of this town was probably why the bohemians settled here in the early 20th century. Among them many famous painters, poets, and actors.

    In 1929, the British poet Robert Graves moved to Deià with his American wife and writer Laura Riding. But Graves wasn’t by far the only notable person paying Deià a visit. Famous Spanish painter Pablo Picasso also enjoyed staying in Deià and so did actor Sir Peter Ustinov.

    Musicians such as Andrew Lloyd Webber, Mike Oldfield, Bob Geldof, Pierce Brosnan, and Eric Clapton came here to relax and find inspiration. Finally, Hollywood star Michael Douglas bought Finca S‘Estaca where once Empress Sissi used to stay.

    It is such a pretty place. We sat on a terrace with a beautiful view and ate our Serrano ham, cheese and vegetable bocadillos (sandwiches) while drinking the best coffee that we have had in Spain. A nearby waterfall provided us with relaxing background music.

    Another 20 minutes down the scenic road and we were in Valdemossa. The Mallorcan Kings favoured this place for its pleasantly mild climate.

    As we entered the town of Valdemossa, we noticed that there seemed to be a big police presence. It looked liked they were closing down the road. And we eventually learned why - the Challenge Mallorca Bicycle Race 2024 was on! There were going to be five days of racing for the men, a series of one-day races with 24 teams. The organisation brought in eight WorldTour teams. What a great opportunity for us to park the car and join in the excitement as the cyclists sped by us. Fun! Once again we were in the right place at the right time. Lucky us.

    Once the road cleared and we could head back into town, we walked to the centre of town to find the place that really put Valdemossa on the map. It became truly famous after a pair of lovers spent the winter of 1838/39 at Valldemossa’s Charterhouse, a monastery. Those two lovebirds were Polish-born composer Fréderic Chopin and his partner, French writer George Sand. More about them and where they lived in the next footprint.

    Valldemossa is also the birthplace of Catalina Thomás, the island’s only saint, who was born in 1531. Almost every house in the village has a tile with motifs from the life of the saint next to the entrance. The house she was born in was converted into a small chapel. Her body, however, is laid out in a glass coffin in the Church of Santa Maria Magdalena in Palma.

    We felt very lucky today for 4 reasons.
    1. Chris’ back had been sore for 2 days and miraculously it got better.
    2. We parked in a pay for parking area, didn’t pay anything and didn’t get a ticket.
    3. We noticed a big dent in the rental car but after awhile realized that it had been there when we picked it up (photo).
    4. We caught the exciting bicycle race.
    We have learned to count our blessings.
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  • Robert Graves’ House in Deia

    24. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Robert Graves is one of the great literary figures of the 20th Century. In 1929, he came to Mallorca, built a house in Deia and lived there until his death in 1985. He is buried under a great cypress tree in the lovely churchyard next to the church.

    He is the author of close to 100 books: novels, history, mythology, religion, short stories and essays. “ But above all, he is a love poet, with over 1200 poems.” In 1961, he was elected Professor of Poetry at Oxford. In 1968, he received the Queen’s Medal for Poetry. He is best known for two of his works; the novel, I Claudius and The White Goddess, a tribute to his poetic testament.

    His house was right on the main road into Deia and it was open for tours, so we stopped in to have a look. There was only 1 other couple there at the same time.

    We got our seniors’ tickets and were sent to a small auditorium with an excellent, short video introduction of the life of Robert Graves. It was told in the first person, using BBC interviews, and local footage. His life seemed to be very full especially of loves, found and lost.

    On one wall of the auditorium is a spectacular “time-line” which covers the poet’s life, and is illustrated with personal photographs, book covers, and international events. On the other walls were several large photographs taken in 1953.

    Going outside we walked through the garden to get to the house. The main paths remain essentially as they were when the house was built. The olive, carob, and almond trees growing on the land were left in place. Graves added an orange grove, a tangerine grove, and some lemon trees, local varieties of fruit trees, and bitter orange trees for his marmalade. The sunny end of the garden he kept for a kitchen garden that is still being planted. On the side of the house is a large covered water reservoir filled from the village spring but it also takes the overflow from the rain water cistern in the house. It was used for watering in the hot summer months.

    Robert Graves, and his then companion Laura Riding, built the house in 1932, and called it Ca n’Alluny, which in Catalan means “The Far House” It is a five minute walk from the picturesque village of Deià. The mountains rise up behind it and it looks out to the Mediterranean.

    We enjoyed reading the English posters explaining what was in the rooms and any changes that had to be made for public viewing.

    It had three writing rooms - one for him, one for his wife and one for any visiting guest. Books, paper, pens were on the writing desks ready to be used.

    All the furniture, wall hangings, and even the light fittings are original. When we were in the house it felt like the Graves’ family still lived in it.

    Where possible, the house has been restored to how Graves found it when he returned to Mallorca in 1946 with his new family. It was lovingly cared for and we enjoyed the visit.
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  • Chopin and George Sand in Valdemossa

    24.–27. jan. 2024, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Valldemossa is a popular tourist destination in Mallorca. One of its main attractions is the 13th century monastery, where the musician Frederic Chopin spent a winter (1838–39) with his lover George Sand and her two teenage children. The monastery was originally built as a royal palace however, in 1399 it was converted into a monastery.

    The monks adapted easily to the royal residence but when Chopin and Sand arrived in Mallorca, they didn’t adapt so easily. They were not prepared for the coldness of the winter days, high in the mountains on the island. Chopin suffered while he was there as he already had a lung disease (tuberculosis?). His health deteriorated over the three months of his stay in Mallorca.

    We were very curious about what Chopin’s life must have been like while he lived in a cell so went into the monastery for a look.

    The hallway leading to the cell in the old cloister was dark and not very pleasant. But I did spot two interesting giant puppets in a corner. They were Gigantes or mojigangas! Great big puppets. I think they are called cabagrossas here.

    So down the hallway, we found Cell #4, Chopin and Sand’s accommodation for
    The Carthusian cell was a suite of three spacious rooms, all with windows and doors looking out on to the terrace. They also had a beautiful garden terrace with a view of the valley.

    There are facsimiles of Chopin's manuscript for the Preludes and some original letters concerning the procurement and delivery of his Pleyel piano from France. This piano is on display in the bedroom along with another small piano. It had taken 2 months for his piano to arrive so until then Chopin allegedly played and composed on a specially constructed Mallorcan pianino.

    It was here that Georg Sand wrote the novel A Winter on Majorca while Chopin composed the well-known Raindrop Prelude in D Flat Major and several other pieces.

    When they left, Sand paid to have most of the furniture (not the piano) burned as the townspeople were afraid to catch whatever it was that Chopin was sick with.

    Once again, I found it very interesting to read more about poor sick Chopin who died at 39 and George Sand who was definitely an early feminist in the mid 1800s. What lives they lived...

    When we get home, I will look for this book -
    Chopin's Piano: In Search of the Instrument That Transformed Music," by Paul Kildea. W.W. Norton, 368 pages. $27.95.
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  • Hams Caves - Porto Cristo

    25. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    And today, we did something completely different. We drove to the east side of the island to a cute little port town called Santo Cristo to visit a cave.

    The drive was easy. We left the mountains and drove for an hour and a half through flat farmland with windmills to get to the other coast.

    The Hams Caves are renowned throughout the world for their peculiar fishhook-shaped formations. (Hams means fishhooks in Mallorquine). Discovered by Pedro Caldentey in 1905, they were the first caves in Spain to be opened to the public. In 1910, these caves already had electricity that was very advanced for its time.

    We started out by going down into the Round Cave, an immense botanical garden with local fauna. The roof of the cave had collapsed year ago so the cave was open to the sky.

    In the Blue Cave, we watched a documentary called Discovering the Past. It introduced us to the history of Majorca, its first inhabitants, the formation of the Caves and their extraordinary discovery. A very good introduction.

    Then we walked up and down stairs to see various formations like “Samson’s Pillars”, the “Plains of Fra Mauro”, and the “Pit of Hell”, where we saw a time lapsed audiovisual called GENESIS -the History of Life. It started out with the Big Bang and went through time right to the present day and was projected onto the rock-face of the cave. Very cool watching a film in a cave!

    The Classic Cave, which is made up of 12 galleries, led us through thousands and thousands of tiny (12”) stalagmites and stalactites. We have never seen a cave with so many of these little formations that had taken 10,000 years to form. Sadly, people had broken off bits of them to take home as souvenirs. In one spot, a fence was put in front of us to stop this behaviour.

    Thee last cave we visited was at sea level and there was an underground Lake, the Sea of Venice. A short musical show was presented featuring Mozart’s music and visuals on the cave walls.

    The Hams Caves are one of Majorca’s main tourist attractions and we definitely enjoyed our hour underground. It is off season now and we enjoyed being with only 2 other couples and the guide. We could ask her lots of questions and she had time to tell us some fun facts about the cave. She said that in the summer, the tour would run every 15 minutes with 30 people in a group. In low season, it runs once and hour.

    From the caves we went to have a leisurely mussel, shrimp and salad lunch with sangria,in Porto Cristo.

    A super visit to another lovely place.
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  • And Now on to Malaga

    26. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Our focus while visiting the island of Mallorca was to enjoy nature and island living. We ate local food, walked to nearby villages, did road trips to see interesting landforms (Mallorca is full of them) and learned a little of the island’s history. We were there during the off season so we didn’t have to fight any huge tourist crowds. You could stay there for a month and not see everything the island has to offer. It’s a great place for sports enthusiasts.

    Now on to the warmer city of Malaga. Weq drove from Soller to where we had to return our Wiber car rental in Palma. The car rental was a good experience for $50 Cdn for 6 days! We didn’t have any accidents but something big did! Check the photo.

    The 1 1/2 hour flight was good. The plane was full of teenagers, mostly a girls’ hockey team, so there was a lot of teenage excitement and chatter. Lol. Reminded us of school field trips.

    We landed at 4 and picked up another Wiber rental car. We have this car for 20 days.

    The owner of the apartment that we are staying in, suggested a car parking lot that is only a 3 minute walk away from where we are staying. It’s called las Delicias and is secure and safe. We don’t plan on using the car for the 3 nights we are in Malaga, but we will use it to go to Granada afterwards. To rent the car was cheaper than taking a taxi and then a bus and taxi.

    Our apartment is perfect. The location is amazing, right where all the action is, but it is very quiet and close to anything we would need. It’s called Fresh, Relax and Sun Centre on booking.com.

    After a short grocery visit for basics, we came back and had a good night’s sleep.

    The next morning, after doing our laundry, we walked around the neighbourhood, starting with the very big and active Central Market with its fresh seafood, vegetables and fruits, along with ham, olives, olive oil, figs, almonds, sardines, jams and Manchego cheese. We bought a few more items and just strolled on the pedestrian shopping streets. Even at 10 a.m., the streets were full of shoppers and eaters/drinkers. We joined the crowd by buying a coffee, then sat down and people and dog watched. There are a lot of dogs on leashes here.

    We booked a free walking tour of the Alcazada, the fortress, that started at 4 p.m. through GetYourGuide. You pay what you want to pay at the end of the tour. More about the Alcazada in the next footprint.
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  • The Alcazada - a bit of Malaga’s History

    27. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today we went to see the big fortress, Alcazada, that overlooks the city. At one time this fortress was at the base of a mountain and right on the sea shore but now it is about 1 km away from the water. The city has quite the history with many different cultures living in it over the years.

    It’s history spans about 2,800 years, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Western Europe. It’s was founded about 770 BC by the Phoenicians and called Malaka, or the “‘fish salting place”. On the street, there is a glass pyramid that you can look into and see the tanks/basins that were used to make a fish sauce called garum.

    The Greeks followed, establishing a colony in the city in the 6th century BC, which lasted for several centuries. In the 3rd century BC, the Carthaginians took control of Malaga, followed by the Romans in the 2nd century BC. The Romans expanded the city, building an aqueduct, amphitheatre, and other impressive structures. During this time, Malaga became an important port and commercial centre.

    The Visigoths (Germans) took control of Malaga in the 5th century AD, followed by the Moors. The Moors greatly influenced the city, introducing new architectural styles, such as the famous Alcazaba Fortress that we were visiting and the Gibralfaro Castle. The city also became an important cultural centre, with scholars and poets flocking to Malaga.

    In 1487, the city was conquered by the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella during the Reconquista. Malaga became an important centre of the Inquisition, which saw many non-Christians persecuted and killed. The city experienced a period of decline during the 16th and 17th centuries.

    But during the 19th and 20th centuries, Malaga experienced a resurgence, with new industries such as textiles and agriculture. In the 20th century, the city also became a popular tourist destination, with its sunny climate, beaches, and rich cultural heritage attracting visitors from around the world.

    The Alcazada is a fortress palace built between 1057 and 1063 by the Muslims. They used building materials from the ancient Roman theatre, only discovered in 1951, that sits at the foot of the palace. From there they lugged marble sculptures, columns and statues up the hill to adorn the fortress. The guide had us look for the old Roman columns that decorated the gates.

    On the top floor were the beautiful rooms of the palace with three attractive courtyards. The views were lovely and we could see clearly Antonio Banderas penthouse suite. He was born in Malaga.

    The fortress was maintained in good conditions until the seventeenth century when two events contributed to its deterioration: a big earthquake in 1680, and the damage caused by an attack by French ships in 1693 during the Nine Years’ War. From then the fortress was used for several purposes including a prison, hospital and even homes were built from its stones on the lower part, until the thirties when rehabilitation work began and the fortress palace was declared a Historical Heritage of Spain.
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  • Museum Sunday in Malaga

    28. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    On Sundays, museums are free so we went to a museum - the Museo de Malaga. This huge museum in the beautiful old customs building actually houses two museums - the Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes (Provincial Museum of Fine Arts) and the Museo Arqueológico Provincial.

    There are over 30 interesting museums (wine, glass and crystal, fine art, Picasso’s house, etc) in this city so it was hard to pick one but we finally decided to go to the one that housed a good variety of objects, mainly archaeological finds as well as fine art, including paintings by Picasso.

    Three hours later and after viewing and reading about many of the 17,000 exhibits, we were hungry and pooped out! We went in search of a tapas restaurant that wasn’t filled to the gills with people. Not as easy as it seems as Malaga has over 2000 of them , all hopping. One restaurant has a sign on it that says that they don’t provide service. What does that mean? Well, we found out. You just try to find a seat, or not, and push your way to the front to grab any tapas that come out. Or at least that’s the way it seemed to me! Check the video. Not what we wanted to do after 3 hours in a museum!

    Finally, we found an outside seat in a restaurant that specialized in tapas and the food was really good. So was the wine and beer. Lol. Added to that, we had some interesting entertainment - a group of street break dancers. Loud and energetic but fun to watch.

    Not far from where we are, In the heart of Malaga, there is a large bullring that opened in 1876 called La Malagueta. Several very famous matadors have performed in this ring. The bullring still hosts bullfights but only once a year at the Malaga Fair. Since it can hold up to 14,000 spectators, it is now mainly used for concerts and conferences.

    Tomorrow, we will leave this little oasis in hectic Malaga and go to Granada. Our goal is to visit the Alhambra, one of Spain’s top historical sites..

    Note - Jeans, running shoes, hoodies, scarves and black puffers or vests are the norm here. So…we fit in!
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  • Gibralfaro Castle

    29. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today, before driving to Granada, we had time to do a good, steep walk up the mountain the castle, Gibralfaro, and its small museum. The castle was originally built in 929 a.d. and then enlarged during the 14th century to protect the Alcazada citadel. The two buildings are connected by the exterior wall. Gibralfaro means rock of the lighthouse in Arabic and Greek.

    The Catholic monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, had a three month siege on the castle. Hunger forced the Malaguenos who were living there to surrender. Afterwards Ferdinand lived on the site and Isabella lived in a residence in town. An interesting historic fact is that this was the first conflict in which gunpowder was used by both sides.

    The views from the castle are the best in Malaga as you’ll see in the photos. You can even see the big La Malagueta bullring where stages are being set up for the Carnaval festivities will be held next weekend.

    At 2 pm, we stopped at a tapas place and ate a good lunch with a beer and Cortada that is a small coffee with steamed milk.

    By 3 pm, we were on the road to Granada. The drive was an easy one as the roads are excellent and there were very few drivers on them. We drove through a huge valley filled with olive orchards that we could see for miles.

    We started to see the snow capped-mountains that overlook Granada before we entered the city.

    Once again, we are staying in a hotel room for 3 nights before moving on. This hotel Casa de Reyes is located in an old house that is full of treasures. The owner has an interest in the history of this area. The room has been renovated and the bed is super comfortable. After our 8 km walk and the drive, we have to recharge for tomorrow - exploring the old city of Granada.
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  • The Beautiful City of Granada

    29. jan.–1. feb. 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Before arriving in Granada, we saw snow on the Sierra Nevada mountains that rise up behind the city. People can ski here from November to June! And Grenada is only one hour away from sandy beaches. Amazing!

    There is way too much history in Granada for me to read and to try to put its history in a nutshell. Basically, it was once a Muslim kingdom. The Catholic monarchs captured the city in 1492 and ended the Islamic presence on the Iberian Peninsula after 800 years. From then on, a lot happened. Too much to write about but super interesting.

    The monarchs were ones that we know - Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand. Also this was the place where the Catholic Kings signed an agreement in April 1492 and accepted Christopher Columbus’ terms to undertake his famous trip. The document granted Columbus the titles of Admiral, Viceroy and Governor-General of all the lands he would discover and set the condition that he would keep a tenth of all future profits.

    Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand chose to be buried here, in Granada’s Cathedral.

    In Spanish, Granada means pomegranate. According to the stories, King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella chose the fruit as a symbol of their final victory over the Moors, and that fruit became the city’s symbol.

    Granada is a lovely university city full of young people, (over 50000 students), parks, fountains, restaurants, flat walking streets and historical buildings. Streets are narrow and wind through the city. It is a pleasure to stroll on its streets and try to take in all of its beautiful sights. On top of that, it is a safe and friendly place to be with a laid back vibe.

    When I was researching what places to visit or things we could do here, one website mentioned 183 places! What to choose? We are here for only 3 nights, 2 full days. Yikes! Of course, we had to see the Alhambra so that was easy, but what else? Cave houses? A Flamenco show, The Mystery Man exhibition? Churches? Monasteries? Arab market? Free tapa bars? Wow. Where to start?

    Our comfortable and quiet hotel, Casa de Reyes, is in a perfect spot for seeing whatever we can fit in to see. And it is decorated with beautiful stained glass fixtures and traditional decorated plates.

    Anyways, we do have a bit of a plan. The Alhambra had to be pre-booked, so that was done a couple of weeks ago, and the rest will fall in place.
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  • Sacromonte Cave Houses

    29. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    I read about a fascinating place to visit on the outskirts of Granada called Sacomonte with cave houses! Even though it is a very interesting place, not many tourists go there because there is only one narrow road up a very steep hill. A bus does go so far but you still have to do the walk up! It took us about 1/2 hour to get to road that goes up and there was a lot to see on the way.

    In the 15th Century, Spanish Gypsies, originally from India, sought refuge in these unique caves, also known as El Barranco de los Negros, which were carved out of the limestone hillside. Beyond providing shelter from the hot sun, the Sacromonte caves also offered protection from religious and ethnic persecution, making the caves a haven for those seeking peace.

    The gypsies there have a long-standing tradition with the flamenco, the typical Spanish dance and music, but they mixed the traditional Spanish flamenco with Arab belly dancing. Shows are held at night in some caves for tourists but I think that that’s what they are - shows for tourists. We’ll see a flamenco show later on on our trip.

    The fact that some of these caverns date back to the 16th century and have preserved centuries of history in their cool, natural surroundings is amazing.

    In 1963, six months of torrential rains destabilized the soil, and the entire hill was in danger of collapsing. The government forcefully evicted the residents of Sacromonte caves, ordering them never to return. And that was the end of the Gypsy history of Sacromonte caves.

    Though many of Sacromonte’s dappled white cave-dwellings are now available to rent, either as permanent residences or holiday homes, and and are fitted out with wifi, TV and fully functioning kitchens and bathrooms, you can see them as they would have been originally in the Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte.

    This fabulous museum is situated at the top of the hill and gave us the chance to look around ten caves that have been set up as they would have been when the Gypsies first settled in Sacromonte. There are lots of old photos on the walls and some wonderful short movies of the families who lived there. Most houses had only three rooms - a living area, a kitchen and a bedroom and a cave for their animals.

    Following our museum visit we wandered around the modern Sacromonte. I don’t think that life has changed much since then – and Sacromonte is all the more charming and beautiful because of it.

    Vale la peña . It was worth the effort!
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  • Our Hotel - Casa de Reyes

    30. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    As we were leaving the hotel to do a morning walk, our hostess Carmen waylaid us and told us to come with her as she wanted to show us something.

    She told us that the owner of the hotel owned 5 buildings in a row and had the plan to make a big hotel that contained a museum of medieval objects. She opened the door to House 13 and we were stunned by what we saw.

    We walked into a medieval foyer full of large olive wood carvings, knights in armour, swords, shields, heraldry, stained glass and even a large Don Quixote and Sancho Panza sculpture! It was the hotel’s museum.

    Once we got over the initial shock of seeing such a room, Carmen told us to look around as she had to get back to her desk. We could look around and then close the door when we were done.

    Well, the next room was a medieval dining room with a table set for six. The next room was once again jaw-dropping with what looked like two huge doll houses.

    You have to check out the photos. It goes without saying (but I’m saying it anyways) we were pleasantly surprised by our ‘detour’.
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  • A “ Menu del Dia” & Free Tapas

    30. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Did I mention that tapas are free here with a drink? With every round of drinks, you also get a free and delicious small plate of food. It’s part of the local food culture.

    Tapas can range from something as simple as a plate of olives or potato chips to a bowl of stew with bread. In Granada, some of the tapas we ate or saw included fried fish, soup, olives, ham, croquettes and even mini hamburgers.

    If you are smart and don’t want to spend money on food all you have to do is order the caña, a small beer, 8-10 oz. It’s not quite equivalent to a can of beer. The benefit of ordering a caña is that it still comes with a plate of tapas. Yes, it’s smaller, but it’s also cheaper. The caña is the perfect companion to tapas. Lol.

    Our hostess suggested a great place for tapas in Granada called Las Bodegas Castañeda. It is right in the middle of the old town, just around the corner from Plaza Nueva.

    It looks like the kind of place that would be a tourist trap with Its decor - legs of ham ready to be sliced at the entrance, stuffed bull heads, big barrels made into tables and plenty of wood. It looked a bit like a movie set of a tapas bar, designed to bring in tourists. But I think that we were the only tourists there.

    So, we went in to get a drink and try their Menu del Dia (menu of the day) , for around $18 Cdn each. We ordered an Alhambra beer and a new drink for me - Tinto de Verano, red wine, soda, lemon and ice. Mmmn. So refreshing. Of course, two tapas came with the drinks called Migas. And olives and toast. Delicious. Will we really need a big lunch?

    Next came the menu choices - 5 starters, then 5 main courses and small dessert. Oh, oh.
    But we had already walked 8 km and it was 3 pm…

    I chose a salad (enough for a meal) and Chris chose a vegetable stew (like ratatouille). Both were so tasty. Can we eat more?

    Our main courses were ribs over potatoes and a chicken in sauce dish over couscous. It was so good and I felt like another Tinto de Verano!!! Guess what another tapa came with it - some bean dish that neither of us could even think of eating!

    Then a dessert? No way! We got it to take home with us - a small traditional pastry that is soaked in Sherry. We saved that to have later with our tea.

    What a meal! We’ll have to walk another 8 km after I recover from my Tintos!
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  • River Walk and a Perfume Museum

    31. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    On our way to the Alhambra, there were a lot of things to see and we had a bit of time to check things out before our guided tour at 12 p.m.

    We went into the daily market and picked up a bocadillo (sandwich) and then walked beside the lovely Darro River on the narrow, cobblestone Carrera del Darro that is at the foot of the Alhambra. Cute stone and brick bridges, built in the 17th Century, cross over the river and its little waterfalls.

    There were numerous and interesting buildings from the 16th and 17th Centuries as well as remains of Arab houses from the Nasrid period. There are also old convents, palatial houses, churches and historical buildings along the road.

    We stopped and went in a beautiful Renaissance palace from the 17th century, originally built by the Marqués de Sálar. It has been transformed into a Museum of Perfume.

    The front section had a store with perfumes made from the region’s plants like patchouli, sandalwood, lavender, frankincense, myrrh, etc. Downstairs , we saw photos of the interesting history of this area’s perfumes. There were ancient flasks that were used for storage and an explanation of the newest present-day extraction techniques used for modern scents.

    Outside, there was an open air patio full of aromatic plants and fresh herbs. It was a serene and beautiful space. Chris just wanted to return with his book and read there all day.

    A nice smelling side trip.
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  • The Alhambra

    31. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    The Royal Alhambra Palace was built in the 1200s by a Muslim king named Muhammed Al-Ahmar. He was the founder of the Nasrid Dynasty (the last Muslim dynasty in the Iberian peninsula), and he ruled over the region of Granada for many years.

    However, during the Reconquista (1492 in Granada), the Christians took back Spain from the Moors. The Alhambra Palace was also recaptured during this time and, since then, has been ruled only by Christian kings. Despite this, the architecture of Alhambra has remained predominantly Islamic, making both the interior and exterior exceptionally beautiful to look at.

    Because of its fascinating story, it’s no surprise that the Alhambra is one of Spain’s most visited historical sites. In fact, its history and beauty are so incredible that it’s been made a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    Two weeks ago, I booked a tour with Get Your Guide, as was recommended by many people- both booking early and booking a tour. Both were good recommendations. Apparently, 3,000 people visit it every day. Wandering around the Alhambra and not knowing what you are looking at wouldn’t be a good idea.

    So we met our guide and 25 other English speaking people at 12 pm. We had to have our passports or ID with us as we were checked three times during the tour. Backpacks and big purses were checked too. We were given headsets so we could hear our guide. Great idea! Now we were ready to enter.

    The Palace of Alhambra is mammoth! The palaces and the grounds sit within a large area, so it takes a fairly long time to walk between and around the sites. For this reason, our tour lasted about 3 hours and we walked 6 km.

    We saw three different areas, starting with the Generalife area.

    Generalife was the recreational residence of the sultan and his family. This villa is located a short distance from the Alhambra and stands out for its gardens, which were once orchards. The most striking part of the Generalife is the main courtyard, which represents the Muslim concept of paradise - lovely walkways, fountains, tall hedges, and giant ancient trees. In the spring/summer, the gardens must be really beautiful when the flowers and rose gardens burst into bloom. We spent around an hour wandering through this peaceful place.

    The second place we visited was the oldest part of the Alhambra - the military fortress of Alcazaba. It is located on the highest point and looks out over the city, so it’s easy to see why this building was chosen as the best location for defense. There is a bell tower that we climbed up via a narrow circular staircase for incredible views over the city of Granada and the valley below. We could see across the valley to the old city wall, the Cave Houses and the San Nicolas viewpoint where we were yesterday. At the base of the tower, was the Plaza de Armas, where we saw the foundations of the quarters where the military forces were housed, as well as some dungeons and a beautiful garden area. This took another hour.

    The final hour was spent in the Nasrid Palaces - the pièces de résistance. The Nasrid Palaces were the primary homes of the Moorish kings, full of typical Muslim architecture with beautiful baths, tilework, and extraordinary Moorish courtyards all with with stunning fountains. You could hear the tourists, ‘Wowing’ as they entered new rooms, each one a gorgeous work of art.

    The Palace of Comares is built around the courtyard of the Myrtles. Its main pool has one of the most famous images of the Alhambra, a gorgeous reflecting pool. In total, three monarchs were involved in its construction. It houses the famous Throne Room, where politics were made, and rooms where parties were held.

    The Palace of the Lions or Harem was the private area of Sultan Mohammed V, who resided here with his family and his harem. Here is the famous Patio de Los Leones, the crown jewel of the Alhambra..

    Every detail in these palaces is breathtaking - the stonework carved into the most beautiful patterns and even the heavy wooden towers carved with beautiful Islamic-style details. It’s hard to believe you’re in Spain and not in Morocco! Those old rulers certainly lived the life of luxury!

    Next to the Nasrid Palaces, we went into the palace of Charles V, (Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand’s grandson) which is a complete contrast. This palace is from the Christian time of the Royal Alhambra, so there are huge differences between the architectural styles. This palace was built in the newer Renaissance style, a far cry from Islamic architecture. However, it’s still extraordinarily beautiful with its expansive circular courtyard, massive columns, and circular ceiling opening where you can see the blue Granada sky. Emperor Charles V decided to build this palace near the Alhambra for his own pleasure and that of his family.

    Although its construction began in 1527, due to a lack of funds and internal revolts in Granada, the Palace was not completed until the twentieth century. It currently houses the Museum of Fine Arts and the Museum of the Alhambra.

    After the tour, we were told that we could stay in the Alhambra until 6 pm, to visit the museum and wander around on our own but we decided that we couldn’t take in much more of all of the Alhambra’s sensual and historical splendour. We had walked up a very steep road to get there and now we had another 3 km walk home so we decided to head back to the hotel We grabbed a quick lunch on the way and then headed home for a well-deserved rest.

    Writing about this place and even our photos do not do this place justice. You have to see it to believe it!
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  • And Even More Alhambra Photos!

    31. januar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
  • The Incredible Granada Cathedral

    1. februar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    I have run out of adjectives to use for all the ‘Wow’ places we have visited. The word ‘incredible’ just doesn’t cut it when describing this cathedral. Chris and I have seen many beautiful cathedrals but we both feel that this one is one of the most beautiful.

    Queen Isabella ordered the construction of the Cathedral of Granada in 1505, shortly after the capture of the city in 1492. The first stone of the Cathedral was laid in 1523 and its construction lasted 181 years. It was finished in 1704.

    We were given a code to use with our phones and we followed numbered posts, getting a self-guided tour this way and at our pace.

    It was an incredible place!

    Now onto the Royal Chapel.
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  • Isabella & Ferdinand’s Burial Chapel

    1. februar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We were not allowed to take photos inside this chapel so I have posted some photos I found on the web.

    Next to the cathedral is the Royal burial chapel (Capilla Real built in 1517) that holds the tombs of Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon, and of their daughter Joanna and her husband Philip. Both tombs are carved in marble and represent the figures of the monarchs on a large scale. The funerary monument is decorated with medallions, figures of saints, and angels.

    Under the tomb, there is a small crypt that can be accessed by stairs. We went down and saw the lead coffins of the four members of royalty and a sarcophagus holding their grandson who died as an infant, Miguel de la Paz.

    The Royal Chapel also houses an exhibition of the legacy of the Catholic Monarchs. In the Sacristy Museum we saw several paintings by Flemish artists that were part of the private collection of Queen Isabella, the ceremonial costumes of the monarchs including her crown and sceptre, and books and jewelry that they used in their daily lives.
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  • And on to Antequera…

    1.–16. feb. 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    It’s February 1st and we are almost halfway through our Andalusia trip and what a trip it has been so far. We are going to ‘rest’ for a bit by staying in one spot and do day trips for 2 weeks. Should be fun!

    Only a 1 hour drive away from Granada, through miles and miles of olive groves, and we are now out of the tourist milieu of Spain and into the old city of Antequera (5,000 years old!) where we will recharge our batteries (maybe) during a 2 week stay.

    Our first sighting of Antequera in the distance was that of a typical medieval town, with the spires and bell towers of several Gothic churches and the walls and towers of the great Moorish fortress high on a hill. Spread out in the valley below lie rich farmlands irrigated by the Guadalhorce River. For centuries this has been one of Andalucía's most fertile areas, and is currently a leading producer of asparagus, cereals and olives. In summer, we have read, its fields turn brilliant yellow with sunflowers.

    The town also is one of the richest archaeological areas in Andalucia, with Bronze Age and Roman ruins ranking among the most important in Spain. Then there is also El Torcal park, the flamingo-filled Pink Lagoon and three megalithic Dolmans. making it the perfect spot for us - both history and nature.

    We rented a good-sized, two bedroom apartment ($73/day) in the city, called the Vera Apartment. It is very typically Andalucian, in a white-washed building. It is set up for Spanish tourists more than it is for foreigners. The owners have provided us with everything and more - a bottle of red wine, chocolates, bread, oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, coffee, tea, sugar, soap and shampoo. Amazing. The configuration of the apartment is odd by the way we set things up at home but after being here for a day or two, we understand the reasoning behind its shape.

    The living room, dining area, 2 bedrooms and bathroom are on the sunny side of the building. A long corridor with a door joins this area to the back where the front entrance, kitchen and an indoor porch with a washing machine live. Summers are hot here (32C +) and many places don’t have air conditioning. Makes sense to have the kitchen and laundry away from the main living areas.

    Surprisingly, our TV has several English channels with some great shows. We watched Oceans Thirteen last night.

    We have pink bathroom fixtures and a bidet. The floors are cold tile floors so we are happy that we brought our slippers. The bedrooms have very cozy duvets as it gets cold once the sun sets. Every room at the front has a heater that we can and will use.

    From our balcony we can see and hear daily life as it happens, as well as a view of the fortress. Across the street is a school and a church that rings its bells hourly.

    The grocery store and market are a 5 minute walk away with a little park in between. The grocery store has been built to fit the space. It is on two levels with flat ramp-like escalator (for shopping carts) that goes to the second floor. The first floor has meats, fruits, vegetables and wine. The second floor has mainly packaged foods and a bakery.

    A real bonus is having free parking for the two weeks and a very short walk away, past a bakery with amazingly good-looking pastries.

    Today’s dinner will be a lovely-smelling, crispy and juicy roast chicken that Chris bought in a take out chicken place. Can hardly wait.

    We think we are going to have fun exploring this interesting town!
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  • Antequera’s Bullring or Plaza de Toros

    3. februar 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We went for a walk around town and came across Antequera’s bullring. It was built in 1848 but rebuilt in 1984. It is considered one of the most attractive bullrings in Spain.

    The main doors were open so we walked in and wondered about, admiring its architecture and trying to imagine what it had been like in its heyday. It has a seating capacity of 8,200 people.

    Only afterwards did we learn that there was a museum of bullfighting somewhere in the building. We’ll have to check that out later.

    Now it is used for large group events like concerts and rarely for bullfights. It is also used as a location to shoot advertisements and was used in the Madonna music video, ‘Take a Bow’.
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