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Camino de Santiago
  • Lexie Magill

Camino de Santiago

A 49-day adventure by Lexie Read more
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  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Transit oriented teens

    March 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    And I say to you again, this is peak mobility, I don't make the rules.

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1Mum wants the selfie she'll get the selfie.
    1Always funny. International.The linear park I was on for like 5kmFinally at the city walls......then the gate...1....and in!The courtyard of the hostel

    Zubiri to Pamplona - part two

    March 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    How's it going, I'm on cloud nine.

    Chanced a 'not the main route but more scenic' detour coming into Pamplona which followed a linear park for a really long time, it felt like I was on the outskirts of the city half the day. It was lovely but I really missed the reassurance of all the waymarkings on the normal route. They are so good I never have to look at my map, where as this thing had me second guessing everything. At one stage a nice couple came to help as I clearly looked useless, and the scallop shell, I suspect, makes people a bit easier on you. You're a stupid tourist but at least you're doing it slowly and quietly.

    Having said that there's been a marked difference in the interest rural versus city locals pay us. Until Pamplona, you couldn't really get past an old man (it's almost always an old man) out for a walk without covering yes I'm doing the Camino yes I started in SJPP yes it was quite steep coming over the mountains wasn't it, oh I'm from Australia, yes very far away spot on, buen camino, muchas gracias, adios. Once I hit the city outskirts nobody gave me a second look. Probably for the best, if I'd needed to have that convo with everyone I passed I'd still be out there.

    Got a bunk at Jesus y Maria, the biggest albergue in town I think, with 100+ beds built into the naves of an old church. It's pretty stunning but the same acoustics that make those hymns pop are going to be fun tonight. Earplugs running a close second in the MVP stakes. Washing machines were freeeeeee so I gave all my stuff a go, had a really good shower, and sat around in shorts and wet hair waiting for my stuff back. Feeling the cleanest I've been since Hobart, I wandered around Pamplona for a few hours, buying food for when I assume the city shuts down due Good Friday tomorrow.

    Back at the J&M pad, I've spent 40 minutes in very shattered French and English with the 64yo guy from Paris who's cycling instead of walking. He's got "20 days" but not really, he's retired and he hasn't booked his train home yet, I think he's just trying to make me feel better. I've seen him in SJPP and Zubiri and now today. He had to stay back a day at the start due to rain, so he did SJPP to Zubiri, Zubiri to Pamplona, and tomorrow will smush another two days into one by going to Estella, so I won't see him again. He said there's an Easter procession at 8pm from the cathedral we are extremely close to, and we made loose plans to go together. By which I mean I said I'd come and I have no idea if that landed.

    Pamplona, by the way, is SO similar to Naples, vibe wise, which is a huge surprise but given I bloody adore Naples it's a nice one. Going to try to go out for dinner tonight, which is a bit of a tightrope to walk given restaurants close 5pm to 8pm and the albergue locks the doors at 11pm. Reckon I can do it though, and I can afford a late one because I don't have to walk tomorrow! Should probably allow time for getting up to the top bunk though, I think my thighs might actually explode and that'll require some clean up.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Exploring Pamplona - part one

    March 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    It's tough to judge a city on its historic centre because they are always nice but woof. Digging it here so much it ended up being a 45k step (nearly 32km) day.

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    No idea how this is accessible, unless the door aligns with that step near where it says BUS?
    They are parked cars, by the way1Bidirectional separated bike lanes behind the shelterI like that it gives you a countdown for being stopped as well as crossing!1Haven't seen tons of real time but maybe just haven't been paying attentionThis was like a shop front, wish I could see inside.

    PT in Pamplona

    March 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Bearing in mind this is all within the old city walls, some interesting variety in parkiteers going on. The broader city is a university town and they tend to be very bikey so would potentially have even more. Also been watching how they intersect bike paths with bus stops, which can be really hard!Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Procession

    March 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Old mate and I found each other in the albergue and bundled up to the Cathedral. He's got a 25 year old daughter (the relationship took some working out but I was relieved we settled on daughter) in Paris and perhaps I'm her stand in for the minute.

    I sort of steered him along even though it was his idea, he just kept mumbling about Mary and asking everyone he passed "procession?". I mean when there's a human tide moving in a direction it's not super hard, but to reassure him I did ask one of those over-engineered traffic wardens holding a machine gun and got the nod.

    Squished against the walls of the narrow street, he fumbled excitedly with his enormous cube digital camera that looks like a box brownie, nearly dropping it when everything kicked off LOUD. The procession started with about a hundred hooded figures, four abreast, the first half with drums and the second half with horns. Drums went solo for a while, an unbelievable racket, and my lovely mate turned to me and shout-whispered he was scared.

    After a while they turned around, the horns had a go, then a bunch of floats got carried out of the church followed by other, different hoods, and, without explanation, something out of asterisk and obelisk. This was all well and good but where was "MAY-REE"?! He started following what was now a moving ordeal, presumably to find her, and I told him I'd see him later and went to find something to eat.

    On reflection, I think he's got his days mixed up, Mary gets a go on Good Friday.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Delicious - something nice in a roast capsicum, lightly fried.
    Foul - zucchini flower anchovy sweet ketchup thing.

    Pintxos = girl dinner

    March 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Pamplona must have had a massive injection for Easter, and/or they're doing something really right because for a town of ~200k the streets were FULL. I had an idea of a dinner spot but after walking past many absolutely heaving pintxos bars to get there and finding it very quiet indeed, I saw the red flag for what it was and abandoned the ship.

    Pintxos culture is great, especially for people like me that rarely want a meal, rather eight bites of disparate things (aka girl dinner). It took a bit of standing back and watching to figure out how though. Bars were overflowing into the street, glasses and plates balanced on bins and bollards and bike seats. It was a bit like trying to board an greased elephant doing cartwheels, but I eventually bobbed up out of the swell clutching a beer and something fried, and sat in the gutter with my trophies.

    Sliding a few doors down in search of a new one, I saw Nicole and a few others I recognised but didn't know, and went and joined them. After a while the others peeled off leaving me, Nicole and Charles, an Irish secondary school teacher with incredibly round eyes and a Czech husband he was clearly missing. Charles stood quite strongly opposed to questions like where are you from, so instead asked me if I'd rather be invisible or able to fly. He was absolutely delighted with my answer, and satisfied that it had given him a far greater insight to my character than something an accent gives up anyway.

    On a very circuitous wander back to the albergue we tossed around a few more would you rathers, and were having such a nice time we decided we'd have just one more at a bar in sight of the doors, so we wouldn't get lost again and miss curfew (they are really serious about the lock outs).

    In the way that you feel freedom to do with strangers, particularly pilgrims, where simply knowing each of us is doing this is an act of intimacy, we capped the night off with vulnerable and honest conversation about referendums, love, and the human spirit. The gift Charles gave that will stick with me is the apparently Irish saying 'what's for you won't pass you'. Cheers.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Pose absolutely sent me, I'll be doing it daily in the bathroom henceforth1It's bloody zoodoo over here1€5 well spent for a dry yummy break

    Exploring Pamplona - part two

    March 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I'm having an extra night in Pamplona as a rest day, and explicitly asked the guy at the information centre yesterday if everything would be closed today (because Australia isn't even a very religious country and we come to a complete stop on Good Friday). I was told yes, buy food in advance, etc. LIES.

    I left my bag at the hotel, noting with horror the €102 house menu, indicating it's much fancier than booking.com suggested, and headed out into the rain. I was able to take frequent shelter though, because of the aforementioned LIES.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Sacred Fanta

    March 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Over about two hours, what started as a benign thirst turned into an absolute obsession with getting a Fanta. I was actually verbalising it to myself. Walking up steps, Fanta...Fanta... Fanta. Well. You call him thrice and the Sky Dispenser delivers.Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Me at the start of each day in my bunk bed
    Me trying to order pintxosMe hanging onto the plotMe when asked to do literally anythingMe worried and fascinated in equal measure1Me and Branna rapidly downloading the day onto each otherMe sneaking into my own kitchen where I live alone for a midnight snackMe, working on myself, crossAny and all of these three depending on the dayMe with the girls

    It me

    March 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    My trip to the museum was more about being indoors than culture, if I'm honest, but I happily launched into my favourite gallery game, 'it me' where you find representations that speak to you, and what they stir is the phrase 'it me'.

    It's silly, but in the right light it can also be a humbling and warming connection with history, a nod to the incredible idea that even in the bronze age or the 13th century, people were still rolling their eyes and daydreaming and being humans you'd recognise today.

    Anyway here's my selection for today.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Unsure if the scale or the Trump hand is funnier - 'excuse me, number one best baby IN THE WORLD'Soup spoon manThis is marble and it's relatively small and the intricacy is SO impressive1I urge you to write to your local MP and ask what's going on hereThey mixed very new and very old art together so effectively

    Art and that

    March 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Other bits in the museum that made me either laugh or feel something more grown up.

    My mate Mat, and I hope he doesn't mind the shout out, said the perfect thing about the painting with the guy and the suggestive lamb, which I must share with you so we can all enjoy it:

    "[His] face looks like the inside of a soup spoon."

    I mean, that's writing. Give him my job.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Chuffed with everything behind me
    The great thing about eating chorizo in the bath is the lack of messTorrija, a special Easter sweet - similar to french toast but very much wetter and heavier. 6/10

    King in the castle ooh la la

    March 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    I've felt strange not walking today, which is an example of how worryingly quickly we adapt to situations.

    I was in two minds about staying an extra night, but discovering an unexpected bath on check in pulled me right out of that.

    As a result of the LIES I have a bunch of provisions I don't want to carry tomorrow so I've been diligently working my way through, from the bathtub and the bed. It's hard work but it's honest, you know?    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    What is this? Crop? Bog grass? It has fertiliser tracks in fields, it's everywhere.
    Close up of the cropWhat's this moth, is it a baddie? It has very unusually shaped wings.3Can you see the mouse? Not a question just an I Spy game

    Questions for Eva

    March 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Eva is my most rurally educated friend, she grows most of my food and she's got a head for science that works shockingly similarly to mine. She's quite brilliant and sometimes I save up questions to ask her instead of Google because I'm more interested in what she thinks. Eva, direct your attention to the captions pls.Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Hard to see but the wind turbines on the horizon are the halfway (and highest) point of today.
    Looking back towards PamplonaThey are strangely pretty, and pretty strange. Also, massive.1Rob Godfrey, LOOK1View from the top of the hill, I'll be walking through all that aheadIt rained before this and it rained after, but this was lovely.3A gigantic part of Camino is holding in a pee, either walking or in a bunk. This was excuse to stop.The albergue for tonight (L) is run by a brotherhood who manage the church (R) and garden, it seems.Puente de Reina is stunning. Smash.

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    March 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Do you know what a waste it felt leaving a 12 noon check out opportunity at 7am? Biblical. I did enjoy turning a light on as soon as I got up, what a treat. I'm well rested but I've also broken my routine, lost my mates, and shown muscles I'm trying to exert dominance over some leniency, which I'm hoping won't lead to mutiny.

    I think moving forward, rest days might be the rare exception. I couldn't wait to walk again, even if it is still BLOODY RAINING. After a few more days of this I think the sun comes out and the temperature doubles. We'll see. I'll complain about that bridge when we cross it. With rain comes mud, and the learning for today is that on the trail (as, if I can be so bold, in life) sometimes it's quicker and cleaner to go through than around.

    I had heard that many locals will do a bit of the Camino over the Easter break, and sure enough the trail was crawling with Spanish families and groups. It's been by far the busiest stage yet and brought a very different vibe to the albergue*, but good on them.

    It felt so good to be walking again, and I know I bang on about flow-state all the time but I was in it for long stretches of the day. That's largely down to good wayfinding, come to think of it. I was chugging along down from the wind turbines when I saw a car, which was odd as it was nowhere near where a car should be. Then I rounded the corner, thinking about the car, to see a man crouched in a bush with what looked like bolt cutters and a determined expression on his face. I stopped, he stopped, and making cautious eye contact, he snipped a piece of the bush off with the secateurs, inviting me to find this normal. I chose to do so and kept going, admittedly a bit quicker.

    I lost a bit of weight lately and have been horrified to discover my bum is on its way out, shrinking at a rate of knots. I've been keen to claw it back out here with all this walking. No idea what distances to trust anymore, but I think it was about 24km today, with some discretionary wandering taking us up to 29.

    Alas, you can take the girl out of roller derby but not the total lack of glute activation out of the girl - each afternoon my thighs lie gasping and red on the floor, and my bum looks up from its magazine idly to ask if we all had a good day. I'm going to go eat an entire flan instead. Maybe I'll catch more ass flies with honey.

    *Addendum after dinner - it's a circus in here and I actually hate it. Gone are the quiet journalling and story telling days, everyone is loud and acting like they're on school camp. I feel like a sore thumb around these weekenders, and hope getting further away from Pamplona at Easter in both distance and time will bring back the vibes. I'm also aware of how stupid this all sounds, it's their country and they can do whatever they want. Just please be quiet? Some of us plan to do this for weeks.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    I've seen a few of these shrine things and I always just think how pleased the local magpies must be
    Could just get the old licence sorted here heyWhat a door!2MOTHERRRRR lookApologies to these lanterns, which I thought were fake and insincere. I've just noticed they're LEDAlmonds! Also lots of olive trees today, the landscape is already changing.This was super unexpected to be honest, but right on.It me.

    Beyond the trail

    March 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I imagine all the trail pictures start to blur together after a while, so here's some other things I've seen today.

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    A baby that looks like a baby, not Putin? Jail for this artist, it's simply not done.
    I'm to understand Enrique Iglesias built this?In a field, isn't she lovelyReligious bits indeed, Love Island Jesus, whaddaya call this! Put it awayyyy.Skinny king!1This was in Pamplona, the crown to baby scale ABSOLUTELY sent me, that's instant neck failure surely

    Religious bits

    March 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Easter Saturday, and I've come across my share of religious iconography yesterday and today but wow opening the Iglesia de Santiago door and seeing that gold was a shock.

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    12As a pilgrim my body obviously a temple

    Leaving Puente la Reina

    March 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    See what I mean? What a gorgeous town. I managed to sleep in until 6.30am today, a PB, and was on the road before the sun.

    This gifted me a beautiful view over the bridge the queen commanded to be built for the safe passage of pilgrims, the town taking its name from both - Puente la Reina.

    Today is 22km, with three steep climbs to hilltop towns, interspersed with rolling vineyards and olive groves. Can't wait.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    *sharp inhale* SHRIEKYou can see where it all went sideways, literally and figurativelyThat's Cirauqui in the backgroundCats pat x 2. CP2, how do we feel about that acronym?The water fountains range in fancinessBitta land anyone? I get commission obvi.2This is literally a Roman road. WILD. My phone from 3 years ago doesn't even work.Roman road, looking back.

    Puente la Reina to Estella - part one

    March 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    I think I'm actually turning into Winnie the Pooh. Or maybe I always have been, and I'm just leaning into my truth? I started the day by talking to some of my Piglets and Roos and Tiggers (see, this works), who are at a derby tournament in Sydney which is making me miss them as that's always a great time. Then I had a walk in the woods and a think think think. All I could do to not tap my head with my paw. I did have pants on but that's only because it's going to rain.

    The pants were probably for the best actually, mud central again. It's this really thick, really slippery clay style stuff. At one point I knew I was going down and surprised myself by letting out a strangled CRIPES as I sunk my knee into the bog. Cripes? Grow up. The Japanese couple ahead of me helpfully pointed out that they had sticks and I didn't, we all had a good laugh and I tried not to kick them.

    The hilltop village of Cirauqui was about 8km into the day and stunning. I risked going off the signed way to explore it, and was rewarded by cats, and a nice coffee, and a toilet. I'm beginning to suspect those loos in Roncesvalles are diverting a water source because with the NOTABLE exception of them every other flush is insipid at best. There's the travel insights you came for.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    These stayed crossed from a dicey intersection until the reassurance of a signCute, probably not cute enough to eat the soggy stranger danger toast thoughGot VERY excited about this vending machine but it didn't live up to the hypeEstella, you've runneth over!

    Puente la Reina to Estella - part two

    March 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    The rain started at 11, when I was having another lovely bit of potato tortilla. I can already tell I'm going to ruin pans and friendships going through an obsessive phase with this dish at home. It continued until I rolled, sodden, into Estella three hours later.

    I remain less than impressed with my raincoat which was not a rushed or inexpensive purchase. To avoid the double negative, I thought VERY hard about which coat to buy and paid lots when I did, so the fact that it's not living up to its 20k waterproof rating is frankly infuriating. Boo hiss.

    Probably did better than the Spanish family pushing on with their long weekend Camino though, pictured in their ponchos. The little one kept lagging behind literally kicking rocks, I liked her immensely.

    In Villatuerta, the penultimate town of the day, there was a cathedral on the hill and I stuck my head in, to see an entire congregation, standing, mid-hymn. Easter Sunday, you IDIOT. In a state of flight (it's never fight, often it's freeze) I scurried in and found room in a pew. I then cursed myself because how was I going to leave? Anyway the thing continued, still standing, all in Spanish but I could follow the gist - Padre this Padre that. It's not like it makes more sense to me in English.

    After a while everyone abruptly turned and started shaking hands with everyone in the vicinity, so I joined in, earnestly shaking the daylights out of pensioners and grinning. Is that normal? I don't spend much time in churches so I'm not sure, I did like it though. They jumped into another hymn that sounded exactly like the Saints Go Marching In, which I assume didn't start out in life as an AFL song but it is what it made me think of.

    When they all started lining up for communion I slipped out and trudged on to Estella, home for the night. This did involve yelling eSTELLAAaaaa, wetly, for my own amusement.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    A tiny pub crawl for one

    March 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Celebrated the rain stopping by going absolutely mental, hitting up the following.

    1. Bar Estacion, adjoining the bus interchange, for research you understand.

    2. An alarmingly convincing Irish pub, unless you looked too closely at the random English signs, e.g. "cricket spikes" and "Wimbledon" and "shooting times".

    3. Somewhere that let me shove a beer and two chicken sandwiches in for €6.

    Another 40k-step day, and the albergue, which I'll tell you about tomorrow, is FANTASTIC so I'm going to sleep very well. Maybe well enough to set an alarm? Let's not get ahead of ourselves.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Albuerge Alda, love forever
    The secret tv room

    Estella cont.

    March 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Albergues can be broadly classified as religious, municipal, association, or private. In order, that means they're run by the church, the council, a YHA type group, or, and hint's in the name, a private entity. The former two are usually the cheapest, religious ones are rarer and tend to be by donation, while the municipal ones are almost always the biggest.

    Motivated by last night's ruckus, I refused to stay at the municipal today, and pushed on, in the rain, getting lost, to privately operated Alda. This turned out to be a hotel with a few rooms of bunk beds (WOODEN ONES, nice and sturdy).

    For €14 I got a spot in an eight bed women only room, with an ensuite, SWOON, which ended up only having five women in it, including me. This buoyed me greatly. I often forget how much I need to be around women, until I haven't in while and everything gets hard. It is genuinely like getting a massage. Give me a few hours with just women and everything is right again.

    By the time I'd had a shower and been very very quiet in the tv room nobody else seemed to have cottoned onto yet, it had stopped raining and I headed out for an explore and a tiny pub crawl.

    None of us snored and it was warm enough to get out of my socks and top and eventually sleeping bag overnight, so needless to say best sleep yet. I woke up at 6.44 feeling incredulous, but I've since worked out Spain kicked into daylight savings overnight and turned the clocks forward. False alarm.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    2

    Can I offer u an egg in this trying time

    April 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    The first five kilometres today were ugly and hard. I felt tired, I left Estella without breakfast, and it was all gross industrial estate. At eight kilometres, I was having a much better time, and when the opportunity for breakfast presented itself I grasped it.

    There were two guys working there. One was rushing around excitedly and one was treating me like the camera in a fourth wall break. Every time the other one did something he'd look at me as if to say 'do you see what I have to put up with' but in a good natured way.

    One of these looks came when his mate was bent over a basket of hard boiled eggs, drawing on them - the excited one looked up at me and exclaimed it was the best part of his day, and the other one looked at me, looked at him, and laughed and shook his head.

    When I left, the exasperated one gave me two Easter eggs, for the road. We smiled real big at each other.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    I'm not a useful scale for my 28L pack as I'm so clinically petite
    Apple spot. This pair were walking with dogs!

    Signs

    April 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    I'm not sure about signs, if I believe them or not, if it's self centred nonsense, if it's divine. I dunno. If I did, there were three today, and I'm not going to explain any of them so tough luck.

    Sign number one, an eagle, which I stopped to watch soar over me in a field.

    At breakfast I bought an apple, because it's been some time since I had much fruit or vegetable and I'm missing it. At roughly the halfway point I lumped myself down on a ridge and tore into it.

    Sign number two is that mid bite, I realised I was sitting right next to a ladybug. I must have looked so ecstatic about this that a woman walking past suggested she take my photo, enclosed below.

    Finally, sign number three came about five kilometres later when I saw a dead field mouse.

    I had a think think think about what these could mean, and came to some conclusions, but then again, last night I dreamed Khloe Kardashian was making me stay an extra night in Estella because my Kmart click and collect patio furniture wasn't ready yet, so who knows. Probably guff.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    The famous wine fountain
    What gorgeous LIGHT todayI HAVE to assume this pilgrim is getting his bag couriered town to town, it can't be a Tescos bag...Facing a choice: longer traditional way or more isolated alternative? I stuck with tradition.2My little heart swells.More extremely aesthetic water fountainsHassesArriving in Los Arcos

    Estella to Los Arcos

    April 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    On my way out of Estella I passed an albergue where a group was gathered outside, in the dawn, singing what I assume was a hymn. It was a kind of sobering reminder that for me this is tourism, and, to an extent, extremely privileged therapy, but to some this remains a deeply religious experience. I hope they have a wonderful day.

    I did. It didn't rain, which helped immensely. At one stage it threatened, and a few drops fell suggestively, but I had a stern chat with the clouds, imploring them to hold on 15 more minutes until I got to Los Arcos please. The sun came back out and I remembered my manners and said thank you.

    In a town where a bunch of pilgrims had stopped for a snack, it was surreal to have my name called out, by Dave (English, yellow beanie) sitting at a table. Travelling alone, and being constantly on the move, it's an odd and wonderful thing to be recognised. Novelty hasn't faded yet.    Read more

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