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Kumano Kodo
  • Lexie Magill
  • Lexie Magill

Kumano Kodo

Nakahechi and Iseji trails, then a few days in Osaka Les mer
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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    11Trail markers2

    Furosato to Owase pt.1

    30. september 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We spent last night in a fevered echo chamber about it being ok to skip mountain passes moving forward if we were concerned about bears, and making backup plans for the three passes on the cards today just in case.

    In the bright sunshine though, they just looked friendlier. While we are yet to see a single other hiker (or white person for that matter) on this trail, there was also a local fisherman ahead on the first one, and just standard warnings on the second rather than highly specific, dated sightings, so we sucked it up. It was splendid, if we did cop about 60 spiderwebs to the face and backtrack two different times on one to find the trail.

    We played music again, which delivered another ridonk scenario of pausing to let a family of wild boar pass listening to Sabrina Carpenter. In the video you can actually see them over my idiotic, ignorant shoulder.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    1What a nifty little truck. How clever
    Miss. She's drowned.1Smash. Will get again1They mean u Jim

    Furosato to Owase pt.2

    30. september 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We caught a train one stop from Aiga to skip the longest pass and shorten today by 8km. I'll actually hear no complaints from the audience as it was a brilliant choice, 23km was just right. We have each been carefully setting the scene for a rest day tomorrow to be the other person's idea and I reckon we're gonna pull that off. I'm very happy to support YOUR DECISION there my love.Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende

    Finally, gossip

    30. september 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Bring back wanted posters, they're great. I don't understand why old mate on the far right has been lumped in with all these murderers or why he's got the biggest bounty but I'll ask when I catch him.

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    2Beef tataki with ponzu and garlicSashimi including uni (sea urchin), which I've wanted to try for ages - it's so subtle and creamy!1Octopus in an incredible lemon oil1Unbelievable, unbelievable chicken wings far out this might be new profile pic2Soup dumplings, so comforting and savoury

    Omakase for two pls

    30. september 2025, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Flush with FamilyMart ATM cash, Jim picked an izakaya place for dinner off vibes and it's possible he should be syndicated or at minimum paid for this quality of intuition because holy moly. Nailed.

    Sat at the bar and let the single waitress and chef know upfront that we are idiots, nodding excitedly when they suggested via translate apps that they just sort it out. Yep, no allergies or dislikes. Go for it.

    The five dishes that followed were so insanely good we'd resigned ourselves to the idea that whatever this cost it was worth. It was bloody $70, including four beers. That's highway robbery from us to them. What on earth. Come to Owase it's SICK.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    2
    View from bed part 1View from bed part 22Wet room bathrooms have completely won us over, might go on The Block to introduce to AustraliaStrong 80s cocaine empire interior vibes in here, leather recliner and shiny black desk not shownStunning no notes💅

    Hotel Viora

    1. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The big room on the top floor of the designated tsunami evacuation shelter - if he wanted to he would, ladies!

    Of the two double beds to choose from, one was perfectly set up for bird, cat, and people watching so donned my beloved supplied nightie and propped up there, shrieking for coffee refills.

    The windows slid open all the way and the bar to stop one toppling from ones bed to ones death looked alarmingly recently fitted.

    Had a sleep in and a slow start because of that rest day plan James is *insisting* upon. I'll indulge him, naturally.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    These are really ratcheting up. Cool as they are, Iike them better on a rest day
    Excellent trail markings coming out of Owase11Old mate was onto us the second we boarded. No idea what his luggage isCultural centre

    Owase to Kata

    1. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Keen to luxuriate in our rest day, we'd planned to walk the trail via a big Kumano Kodo cultural centre to the next station, then rather than undertake a large mountain pass, catch the train. Depending where you are on the line, they run about 7am, 9am, 12pm, 4pm and 6pm, which is amazing, but it does leave gaps.

    We got to the station for the midday service and had a decision to make about how far to go. The two stops before the one closest to our accommodation looked like they were in teeny towns, and while one of them had a beach and I was fanging for a swim, we figured more time in the relatively larger Kata, and our ryokan (traditional inn) would be a good call.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    YTGOk then11Third largest tree in the region in a 2009 survey I'll have you know. 1000+ years old. Like Jim.1

    Bumming around in Kata

    1. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Turns out Kata is titchy, 35% roadworks and 35% cemetery. We'd just shaken off the guy from the train, who got off with us and possibly tried to kidnap at very slow speed, when a tiny truck pulled over and a man got out and asked us if we were staying in the area.

    This sort of happened yesterday, a van pulled over and strongly suggested we hop in for a lift, so we were on the edge of talking him down when he said he's a "hotel man" and from Owase Seaside View which is the place a kilometre out of town we are booked at tonight.

    He showed us the reservation on his phone, and went on to explain that he doesn't have our contact information (third party booking site) but wanted to warn us that while our stay includes breakfast, there's no dinner, and what's more there are no restaurants or shops in this town.

    Pointing at the minute liquor store, he said they had some snacks, and relaxed a bit when we said we'd stock up. Wonder if running into us was coincidence or he'd been hooning around looking for pink gaijin all day.

    It was pretty sparse but we got some packet noodles for tonight assuming there's at least going to be a kettle, and some sweet pastry things and potato chips for lunch. Schlepped up to the park to wait in the shade until we could check in at 3, where a billion ants used me as a skatepark.

    Settling in I bid farewell to the idea of eating out for lunch and dinner tonight and tried not to think about that place with the beach, but took the mild boredom as the gift of true rest it was.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    11A lil suite! This is inside our main door211Not that one thenOn approach - the big brown building

    Owase Ocean View

    1. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Stoonin. Sometimes we put on the ooooh-ahhhing a bit to hype up the host but opening the door on the room got it organically.

    When we arrived, there were, as there always are, lots of pairs of slippers to choose from, because your nasty outdoor shoes are not going any further than a metre in the door thanks very much.

    Usually they are all the same, but here there were lots of different styles in pairs of two - we were asked to choose a matching set to each other, which I think is actually a sweet way of finding your partner if you lose them later, you can just look at the slippers and know aha, he's in the bath.

    We were then asked to put our luggage on a trolley pushed by a woman in her 70s which we did, reluctantly, and then she asked us - through the manager we'd met in town earlier - where the rest of it was which made us VERY smug indeed.

    It was whisked off to our room while we completed check in, which basically involved learning we can use the onsen any time, where breakfast is served tomorrow, that this is a small inn and no staff other than the manager speak English, and that some local alcohol would be served on the mezzanine shortly for free.

    We spent the remainder of the afternoon doing most of that - soaking in the onsen, reading, sipping drinks, napping, and watching the old boys on the dock outside pretend to fish (while it's on the second floor, I highly suspect they can see the onsen as I could see them from in there). Rest day in the bag.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    1
    There was a stamp of this, we have since collected in our notebooks

    Rested and ready

    2. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    While packet ramen for dinner last night was a bit eh, it certainly set the scene for breakfast. There were clams in the miso soup, I repeat clams in the miso soup. We'd planned to catch the train from Kata to Atashika at 9.25am, so prepared to leave at 9 for the kilometre walk to the station but the lovely manager said he'd give us a lift! Ryokan are about hospitality as much as anything and we have been so lucky with this gem in the middle of such quiet surrounds. We bowed as deeply as our backs and knees allowed at the station.Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    1
    1I agree!

    Atashika beach

    2. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    On the way to the station the manager noted what a beautiful beach Atashika has, and when I asked if it was possible to swim at Kumano City, which is our destination today, he said no, while there's a coastline it's dangerous. Accordingly I was dead keen to start the day with a swim and it was unbelievably enjoyable. The water was warm, the fish were flying, the sun dried me off without crisping me up, and it was sand rather than rocks. I can't even find the words, it was heaven. You'd think a swim with no towel and then a 19km walk wouldn't work, but geeze we've packed sensibly. Merino toesocks, for what it's worth, ideal antichafe devices.Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    1They are ume flowers not cherry blossoms, Norma emphasisedAdorableADORABLE21

    Kata to Kumano pt.1

    2. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Right I'd frolicked in the sea, now it was time to find something to carry for lunch later. We'd looked it up earlier and there was a little grocery store in this excellent town - she sorted us not only with chicken, potato salad, rice balls and some nail clippers (for dessert) but also rushed off to the back to get us a frozen bottle of water to use as an ice pack. What a gem.

    Having skipped two giving the staff on the Kisei line a proof of life check from Kata to Atashika, three mountain passes remained for the day. As we walked out of town to start the first…omfg....emerging from a trail.....OTHER HIKERS. Hissing at each other to stand up straight and look clever, we waved hello to [name not remembered] and Norma.

    We paired off to natter on the side of the road, James and Norma and me and [line!?] - and it was such a throwback to have a good old pilgrim conversation. They're the first others we've seen since staring in Ise, and vice versa since they started in Shingu walking the other direction, so between the four of us I think that's it on Iseji. They've been navigating using trail markers and Norma's intuition, so I was pleased to show him the map website we'd found off a QR code on a stick (kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp) which I think will measurably improve the coming days for them.

    He's America (California) she's Mexican (didn't say where) and they've been "having adventures for 18 years" which on Norma's part involved some kind of raptor work and we learned a lot about the kites. They were modelling every sun smart garment available in today's market and we liked them a lot. James and Norma must have been discussing dual pilgrimage because at this point the two conversation blobs amalgamated as Norma whipped out a present for me - a dual patch she had designed. She decided James needed one too, to motivate him to complete it. They've walked the French, Norte, and Primitivo routes in Spain and dream of one day opening a donation based albergue on the Norte called Descanso del Soul (a pun, naturally).

    Parting, they told us the passes today are delightful and half in people's backyards, and they were right.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    Last passsssss
    11Where we made friends1

    Kata to Kumano pt.2

    2. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Tomorrow is flat as a tack along the water, so we took a moment to celebrate and enjoy Matsumoto, our last pass baby! Iseji goes up and over to Kumano City, but at the top there's another trail that takes you a less direct way via the coast and a UNESCO site the manager and Norma both encouraged us to visit. If we didn't divert we could walk out of town to look at it later, but we had the legs and the mood was high so swing a left, we're going via Onigajo.

    A Japanese woman's singing voice was getting closer, and we hung back in the trees to not startle the older group in the pagoda taking a rest listening to their tour guide perform a local folk song. When she'd stopped we tried to sneak past with some smiley waves, but their leader spoke English and in the kindest way possible, demanded we join them.

    We nestled in amongst the eight or so Japanese, and were promptly handed a frozen towel from a plastic bag and urged to unroll it and put it on our necks to cool and pass away in relief. In a bandana and bumbag, the tour guide launched into a new folk song with, thankfully, a very simple clapping accompaniment.

    After that it was time to interrogate the newbies and the reaction to hearing we're Tasmanian is a credit to the tourism industry of the state I feel - they freaked OUT. Why are we here in this rural area? Why would we leave Tasmania with its devils and large lobster? How long are we here?

    We explained we're walking Kumano Kodo for three weeks and gestured to the insane view behind us as evidence of why, and they freaked out again once she translated, booming low sincere ARIGATOs at us and gasping. We took a photo all together, every one of them shook our hands, and then toddled off into the trees, delighted when I suggested we'd see them in Tasmania. SWEETIE PIES.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    1

    Onigajo rock formations

    2. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    WHAT. THIS IS SICK. A large carpark was emptying out of local tour buses, and we had it to ourselves after the first 200m.

    From the local tourism website:

    "Onigajo is a massive rock wall created by earthquake uplift, weathering, and wave erosion. A 1.2 km long lava coast line was in the Pacific Ocean more than 14 million years ago, and over time the land was elevated several times.

    This extraordinary wild cave, which is a part of Yoshino-Kumano National Park, is said to have once been a place where horrible pirates lived. "Oni" literally means horrible ogre in Japanese, and Onigajo was once called Ogre's Place. Later on, when a ruler built a castle there, its name was changed to "Onigajo" which means ogre's castle.

    It has been designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty and Natural Monument, and is registered as a World Heritage Site as part of the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range."    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    2
    1HighlightDorky but kind of nicer than a headtorch1Osaka is going to be dangerous

    Better stretch the legs I guess

    2. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Izakaya for dinner, where the smiling waitress again pressed two little mandarins into our hands at the end, as well as an English map of the area. The fruit is for good luck, we've since googled. What a day of gifts and kindness!

    On the way home we swung a visit to Daiso to try and find my souvenir fixation of a calendar while we're still outside the big smoke (roaring success) and supermarket to get James' dessert fixation of tiramisu, and a small loaf of insanely fluffy milk bread to have toast for breakfast tomorrow as a treat given we are in a place with a kitchen! Big bang boom bedtime.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    2
    31Ceci n'est pas une cream bun before 8am

    Wagaranchi Kai Inn

    3. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We hadn't realised we were getting this entire house, and while that skirts dangerously close to the Airbnb line, I'll allow it. With access to a toaster since the man delivered one unexpectedly to the room back on Hongu, we indulged in fluffy milk bread toast for breakfast, which James grilled with pats of Hokkaido butter on top in a show of utter crumb mastery. In answer to your question mum, slightly drier food in the morning is the only thing we were remotely craving, so we're sorted now. Grunted consent at each other to get going by 8.30am and got out the door a mere 60 minutes after that. Bah. Holidays.Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    These walls are about 12m high
    2Very apologetic roadwork signsI bought a mini version of these Asahi crates at Daiso, I intend to store q-tips in itUnlike others, you keep outdoor shoes on in the servo bathroom - can flip this to stand and changeNever seen this in a family mart how excitingMost of day looked like this it was grandPortions of arduous pebble beach walking were slow

    Kumano to Shingu pt.1

    3. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today's the 26km parade along the coast to Shingu: like my waist, it's almost completely flat and straight. It's overcast and will rain later, which is a blessing as the walk is mostly along the top of tsunami barrier walls or the side of the highway, neither of which offer shade. We both have slightly upset tummies but our tails are up, off we go. I made the inscrutable choice of some chicken, two boiled eggs and a pineapple milky smoothie for lunch. High risk high reward.Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    This is the guard, Erotic Kangaroo
    The national dish is famichikki2These are our passports - must be carried on person at all times. GUARDS

    We'll be in here

    3. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    I've been waiting for the right time to spring my sovereign citizen notions on James and today felt like the time. Here's my new city, I am the mayor and also, the janitor and also, the local celebrity. I have everything I need, you can't come in without a visa. Byron grants those and he needs 16 business months notice due to his illiteracy. GUARDS.Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    Map 99% accurate
    1Onwards

    Kumano to Shingu pt.2

    3. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    A terrible opponent has entered the game. A darker shadow than bears, a fiercer sting than hornets, spookier than snakes. Chafe. In my bot bot. Thank god it's the last day of trekkin.

    We didn't let it distract tooooooo much from a glorious descent into Shingu, albeit too late to get to the third of the shrines, so we'll officially complete this pilgrimage tomorrow.Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    Fried one piece at a time and eaten immediately

    Tempura

    3. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    It can be completely overwhelming to determine where to eat, and if you're not careful you end up in decision paralysis and go to a 7Eleven. To navigate the immense choice available, we've therefore deployed a method of aggressive filtering whereby we consider what sort of thing we want to eat, then geo-fence the search to within about 300m, pick a first and second choice that offers that kind of thing based on reviews and lack of touristy red flags, and then suss the vibe in person. We simply cannot be arsed with the "best XYZ in ABC" stuff, it's a dud investment of time and effort when pretty much everything is great.

    We take turns to be responsible for this important decision. James was up today and we were after tempura. Given it's all this husband and wife have been doing for 60 years, it was quite good. I'd go again. I'd sell a kidney, sure. There was no english anywhere so we held up our mobile phone at the end to translate that we'd finished Iseji today and this meal was a celebration. They were pleased and gave us mandarins. Hold the bat up Jim, you've done very well there.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    1BDE in 301 - suckas1We've been trying to flip and catch this hat for two weeks. Not there yetWe're just down thereSi?1💃

    Ajito Hostel and Cafe Bar

    3. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    After tonight, it's back to my accommodation bookings for the remainder of the trip which I think will be a slight relief for James, as he's been fretting each time that we're about to check into the Best Western Haunted Heroin Love Hotel. The minor concern about this place seems to have been a shared bathroom but turns out that's for the PLEBS on level two and we get the entire third floor, including a giant balcony. Check in was via a code and we sent them photos of our passports via WhatsApp. How clandestine. I love.Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    Do you sell these amulets in slabs11

    Hayatama Taisha

    4. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    This morning we visited the third and final of the major shrines of the Kumano Kodo, and what we consider the finish line of our pilgrimage.

    Closing the door on the dedicated walking portion of the trip is bittersweet - I'll miss the simple structure and purpose of each day, but am also excited to move into a different (much shorter) phase, and under no illusions that the step count is going to go down, particularly in Osaka.

    Similar to the alleged phases of Camino, our start (Nakahechi) was a physical challenge, with far greater elevation and tricky terrain than either of us expected, the middle (northern and central Iseji) was in relative isolation, and the end (southern Iseji) was a parade.

    Across both routes we've walked a total of 231km over 13 days for an average of 18km per day. We are still fans of each other. No blisters. Mild chafe. High morale.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    1Ugh so temptedThe true shrine

    2nd Street Shingu

    4. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    Lol ok BYE PILGRIMAGE time to opshop. We'll be hitting every 2nd Street between here and the airport, but we must be discerning. Mustn't go berserk. Mustn't.

    As with lots of second hand places, you strike gold outside the big cities, so we were both keen to get to this one in Shingu before the competition heats up in Osaka. Justified, it appears. Attempted to split up but kept zooming back to each other to hiss LOOK AT THIS then race off again.

    I got a jumper with cats on it (read the small print of my contract, it's in there) and a LONGCHAMP LE PLIAGE XL BAG FOR $13. JAMES GOT A MARK GONZALES JUMPER (!?!?!) and a Tokyo tigers tshirt and another jumper. 👹🫨🙈    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    1
    No I didn't. Don't lie.

    Seeya Shingu

    4. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    It rained hard last night, and pesky little typhoon warnings keep popping up on our phones, so out come the lurid plastic coverings for our torsos and bags. It is very gratifying to have used literally everything I packed.

    Highbrow lunch at Lawsons before a 20 minute train to Kii-Katsuura, a tuna port you may recall from the end of Nakahechi when we stayed a night in Pals Inn before heading north to start Iseji.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    Foot only onsen at the port! Genius

    Kii-Katsuura again

    4. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    We've been here before but after a looooong day and on the other side of town, so it feels fresh.

    We've come for a rest day before going to Osaka - here's yet another bloody Camino reference, shut upppp - like I did in Braga to adjust before Porto. That's a good tradition I feel, going straight from the trail to a big city would give you the bends.

    The town is very popular with Japanese and, it would seem, Chinese tourists, here to visit the tuna (and whale... and dolphin...) market and take bus or boat tours up to Nachi waterfall.    Les mer

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  • Lexie MagillKumano KodoReisende
    3
    311Gr8 walk to toilet via a sashimi processing kitchen and a loungeroom with a 3yo watching tv alone

    Extra hot

    4. oktober 2025, Japan ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    After shrine and opshop, the third spot on the goal podium today was occupied by 'lounge about over a coffee' and like, I don't wanna get bullish here but is there anything we can't crush. We found a basque cheesecake and a really hot latte - my new goddamn vice as I approach retirement at pace.Les mer

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