Camino de Santiago

April - June 2024
An open-ended adventure by Lisa Read more
Currently traveling
  • 24footprints
  • 2countries
  • 62days
  • 129photos
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  • 4.4kkilometers
  • 1.4kkilometers
  • Day 22

    HOPE - Day 17

    April 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I sleep-in.

    Till 8:30. But apparently that’s kinda a thing.

    I am annoyed I’m not preparing to leave.

    But I’m committed to staying off my foot all day in hopes it relieves the pain when standing on it.

    I use my morning researching you tube to look for tips, advice, stretches and spend so many hours trying to do DIY physio on myself.

    Yolanda checks on me and brings me a coffee up.

    She also tells me of a physio she knows who will ring to see if he can help.

    She tells me to go at 4.

    I hobble with my pole 200metres. He sees me within 15mins. Spanish, and we translate via app.

    10 mins he’s made it better. Not fixed it but better. The problem was in ankle and between my big toe and the rest. He charges me no money for this.

    There’s such a cluster of kindness happening it’s quite overwhelming. It really is like everyone is just really behind you succeeding.

    On the way out I quite literally stumble by one of the towns hot springs fountains. I thought what’s the hell, may as well as dipped my legs in and after in cold. That really did seem to help.

    And I talked briefly to a woman from the states also enjoying the springs. We chatted my injury for a while and then I took off, going via the shop to get prepackaged food for dinner - not taking chances now.

    On my return Yolanda tells me it’s possible to rent e-bikes from her friend. It requires an app. This app is not very good nor user friendly, but I am determined this is my plan b.

    I go back out, get a small bag to put my essentials in and arrange for my bags to be forwarded on.

    And head for an early night. Hopefully tomorrow we roll…
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  • Day 23

    Plan B - Day 18

    April 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I wake up.

    My foot is slightly better, maybe. But not 22km to Padrón, okay. I grab my rucksack and get it tagged and ready to be picked up by 9am.

    I then head out to the bike store. And try the app to unlock the bike. It’s only €16 for the rental to padron but I have to put a deposit of €100 down, so was nervous.

    I try it out in the car park nearby. And I get the electric on it to work once cycling. I then commit to taking it and walking it out to a footpath.

    I hear a shout “Hey, UK Girl!” - it was the woman I was talking to at the hot spring. Literally the only other person I spoke to yesterday other than the physio and albergue host. She’s ask how my foot is and I say I am gonna take the bike to which her and her friend cheerlead me on. I felt empowered that little bit more leaving, despite taking off in the wrong direction. But all good a local flagged me immediately and turned me around.

    I took to the bike quite quickly. Although as expected the amount of pilgrims made the route more tricker as there was much more braking than ideal. But without a helmet I went much slower than what possible.

    And I was fine with the bumps of the forest track. Even fine standing and cycling for a while. There was just one moment where I person decided to not go the way they’d decided to when letting me through, where braking caused me to jaunt and almost fall over. But another pilgrim caught and re-stabilised me.

    A few times I lost momentum and other pilgrims would help start me off by pushing.

    It was on the whole and enjoyable experience. Going faster meant I missed a few yellow arrows, but locals were quick to point out how to get back to the Camino. Including a man who stopped his car to get back out.

    Just before Padron I asked Carlos (the guy who had the bikes) what code I use at the drop off point - although he told me what it was he also said he’d be happy to pick it up from my albergue. Meaning I had the bike for another 6km.

    With this info I grabbed a quick coffee and went into the church at Padron to see the legendary stone that sits beneath the pulpit.

    With rain looming I set off for the last bit to the albergue. But rain set in before. I stopped under a tree and changed into my Mac. I also had a quick stop 6 mins away during a torrential downpour, where of the other 2 people in there, also happened to be the UK man now living in Portugal Julie and I met back in Acora. We discussed how the rest of the Camino went for both as they had taken the spiritual and litoral after Caminha. We also discussed foot pain management and traded lemon cake for painkillers.

    A gap in the rain gave me the chance to head off. I had a bit of a hard time mounting the bike outside the church and almost fell over but managed. And it wasn’t long before I arrived. And just as I did Carlos arrived to take the bike back. And as I entered the Albergue, my rucksack was waiting for me. I couldn’t believe how easy (with all the elements) the day had ended up being. I’d of thought something at least was going to go wrong, but no. It’s as if the Camino is willing me to succeed.

    I have a few chance conversations with other pilgrims. All who are going on to Santiago tomorrow, unlike me who is splitting it and going to the town just before. About 7km out with the hope of getting there in the morning on Sunday.

    I take a shower. Make my bed and go to bed relatively early. Not knowing if I’m taking a bus part way or walking to Milladoiro tomorrow.

    But I do go to bed being immensely proud at my attempt and achievement in continuing the Camino…
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  • Day 24

    One more step - Day 19

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    I’m one of the last to leave the albergue.

    But that’s because everyone’s advised me to book my Santiago lodgings asap as it’s getting busy. It feels a bit presumptuous for my liking but I do so.

    I also look at the map to see how far away the Camino is from the main road as well as elevation. I decide if my foot is too much I will head back to the road for the bus.

    At this point I know I’ve done everything I can do all I can do to make it.

    And I’m not too sure now why completely the Camino means as much as it does. It has gone beyond the original reasons for taking it on and something has taken root. Perhaps devotion to something outside myself, a commitment to transformation or completion. I don’t know. I just know I want to get there by my own merit.

    And today I want to shave off as my kms with my own feet.

    So I set off in the rain. The busy road making me acutely aware of how lonely this feels.

    My pace is slow. And I’m aware of those behind trying to overtake me. I come up against hills with roots and stones as a path. I go slower not wanting to jar my foot again.

    I continue up. I think about stopping at some cafes but I say no, wanting to gain as much distance while I can.

    Although I do stop for a coffee. I realise my credentials got wet. This upsets me. But I decide they should be weathered afterall.

    The sun comes out and layers need to come off. But I’m still painfully far from where I need to be. A 2 hour walk has already become a 3 hour one. I am fed up. My body hurts. My feet hurt and I also can’t sit down without intense pain thanks to the bike. So there’s no position which is comfortable. I can only put one step in front of the other and be proud of any distance I do, closing in on Santiago.

    I decide to start the Camino podcast. As a relevant distraction to the length of time ahead of me.

    I am half tempted to try for Santiago. Worried about what could go wrong between now and tomorrow morning.

    But I arrive at the town and head to the albergue instead, after going to the church as you reach the town. My penultimate day of stamps.

    I am emotional at the thought of finishing, but I remain feeling a little weary of tomorrow - as if I can’t quite believe I’ll be done tomorrow and this is over. A 20 day memory, over.

    And what will await me on the other side of the Camino…
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  • Day 25

    I did it!

    April 28 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Out the door for sunrise.

    Although you wouldn’t know it. Fog everywhere.

    I venture back to the Camino. Out of the mist I see a female pilgrim overtake, briefly asking if I’m okay because I’m limping.

    I only see a few others for the first hour.

    The roads a little creepy with the fog. Passing an electricity station, I think, the frazzle of light rain hitting the lines cause a buzzing.

    The mist is a might fine metaphor for my final day on the Camino. Symbolising the not knowing of what comes next, just being aware of the present.

    I am still unsure as to what the Camino has become for me. It’s certainly more than the reasons I set out for. The destination has become part of the journey, for me.

    The pain arrives, as I’m in the woodland. And now more pilgrims are coming.

    But it’s okay. It’s about me now. And I will get there.

    And I keep thinking of how it will be over soon, and try to keep present of all that’s around me. Mostly aware of the fog.

    The sun starts creeping through the fog. And it casts a sepia glow, highlighting shadows of the buildings up ahead in Santiago.

    I enter the city. It’s not the most charming of homestretches. Mostly urban sprawl. But I keep determined. And I arrive on the cobbled streets that take me somehow up to the Cathedral. But the arrows have gone now, and I while I start to see the turrets, my mind starts to work out if I am going to the right spot, will I end up behind it?

    There’s no grand entrance, arriving this side, you just become aware you’re here.

    Tears form. And I have a moment. Suddenly aware I did it.

    I am here.

    And it is grand. There’s a sense of awe for sure.

    I head back to the cloisters to take it all in.

    Make sure Hubba gets his view too.

    While I’m there. I see two people from the Camino.

    The man who was helping everyone with the locked toilet at Albergue Albor, 2 nights ago. And Mike and his wife. I give them both a hug and take a picture.

    While sitting. A man comes over to chat, he’s done the French way. And he talks about how meaningful the Camino has become, and you can tell he’s emotional. He helps me find my way to the pilgrim office.

    He makes sure I get in okay. I register and get my certificate, in honour of my mum.

    I then find a place for an orange juice before heading to my hotel.

    I take a long snooze and then head out to see the Basillica. I don’t spent too long as it’s heaving with people ready for the mass. I resolve I’m coming back tomorrow to have the time with the space myself. And to head out the door with the reverse alpha and omega, signifying my transformation.

    I grab a lil pizza and sit outside. Twas cold, but I had a sangria to celebrate.

    And then I drifted back to the hotel.

    Where I dreamt vividly that my Camino wasn’t over and I still need to walk…
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