Camino de Santiago

My first day as an official pilgrim.

I left the albergue. Saying goodbye to the beautiful Julia and Greg, volunteers from Boston. Such gentle and authentic souls. They were so invested in each and everyone’s Camino.

I left on my own. I walked down into the old town, a little teary at the idea that the day had come. What the day means, I don’t yet know, but it had me emotional.

Not for long as my pilgrim shell on my rucksack was clanging, to the point, I needed to adjust it. I appreciate it might have been a test to ‘zone it out’ or accept the noise. But no, I’m almost 100% definite that my lessons from the Camino don’t include finding peace with a headache inducing clam shell.

I approached Porto Cathedral, while it was still quiet. Mostly other pilgrims, starting their Camino - and who luckily I was able to get a few photos of me starting with Hubba which I’ll treasure. I then sat and waited with my intentions. In that time, I spoke to other pilgrims, who had come for mass. Including Magda and Jon, who I shared my dorm room. And then, I swapped numbers with Lesley and Tim, an almost retired couple from Tulsa, Oklahoma.

I then began. Down the steps, following the litoral path to the river side. It was a stunning descent full of nooks and crannies, inquisitive cats and it was also where I began to understand and experience the spirit of the Camino. Identified as a pilgrim by the shell on my backpack, you begin to be wished Bom Camino, a wish of good hope, for what awaits you. A man, super excited, stopped me in my tracks to tell me the way to coast (in Portuguese!) , high five me and wish me success.

But you soon see more pilgrims come out of the city’s woodwork. And a knowing smile and nod, and greeting of the same wish, “Bom Camino” - no matter the language, hundreds of people are united in a common hope, a wish and of goodness and peace for each other.

As I crossed the road heading towards the sea, I bump into a pilgrim, Angel. From Tampa, Florida. We chat a little, fall into the same pace, and then bond over a silent fear from taking a single file metal grate bottomed boardwalk over the sea. Petrified, we both stepped off, with a look of recognition that wasn’t going to happen again.

We stayed together all the way to my stop, Matosinhos. But in that time we talked life, and the back stories to why we are here now. And what we want to gain from the Camino. Angel’s story was rich, and one which I’ll remember.

But we discussed another hope of the Camino for me. To rediscover or reignite my lost spark.

I then arrive at my next Albergue. Welcomed by the host Luis. It’s an absolute gorgeous surfer/pilgrim haven. Cosy and modern. Tempted to snooze as soon as I was shown my bunk, with curtains (how luxurious) but I decided to head out for a Chocolate Quench, and sort my next lodgings out.

Soon after Lesley, Tom and I (who are staying 2 blocks away) made plans to eat together. Which we did and shared stories once again.

In terms of assessing my feet after day 1, I have no blisters but a spot to look out for on my little toe.
Some arch pain, but thats lessened as the day has gone on. I have a feeling my right shoulder maybe taking too much weight with backpack as I think there’s an over lean which I hope to correct tomorrow.

The distance is more tomorrow. And I am little daunted. But it will be cooler. And I have a room, so no intense pace required.

Let’s see what’s in store for tomorrow…Read more

Woke up: Sea Soul Hostel - Esponede
Destination: Unknown

Slept well despite a poorly tummy in the night.

Late start, but I knew it was going to be a short day. I had in my head I’ll walk for three hours and see how far I get. Rianna gave me some of her bleached sheep’s wool for my feet, to pad the tootsies - this has indeed seem to help. My feet are no worse at the end of the day today.

We set off together with the intention of splitting apart. But we just so happened to have the same pace and also fancied stopping at the same cafe for breakfast. First day using the pole, and this came in handy on the cobbles and inclines.

Bizarrely I did well on the inclines. I think it may be because my legs enjoyed using different muscle. Feeling new muscle pain seems oddly relieving and a bit of a welcomed change up.

Walking the tops of the town, and seeing the houses, was a treat. So many beautiful trees, including fruit trees, bursting with oranges, lemons and mangos.

It also gave Rianna and I more time to speak about our Camino paths. She asked if I wanted to speak about my mum, and I did! I told her all the things that I think I’ve taken from her, including her kindness, her love of rescuing animals, individuality and her curiosity. I spoke of who she was when she was in hospital and how she cared for those around her. And I spoke about my time with her so far on the Camino. It was nice to be asked, and of course we spoke on hers too.

After 2 hours we decided to stop at a very small local cafe. We were welcomed, and within 20 minutes, they knew I could speak Portuguese (ish) and they loved chatting. We discussed all things Brazil, travel, culture, why they should be proud of their people. And also their stories, including a couple who met in Santiago.

We laughed. But we needed to say goodbye so we walked a little with one of the locals. Who introduced him to his puppy, Luiz, on passing his house. Gorgeous!

We then came to a forest path. With a natural alter of mementos. It was beautiful. And the path got wilder, but still the yellow arrows remained. A waterfall and current could be heard, and the path unfolds to a stream and stone bridge. Something straight out of a fairy tale.

It was in this forest I felt a genuine smile of peace forming. It was notable.

And then noises. A strong chirping, but couldn’t recognise it. Until Rianna told me it was frogs - wow!! I’ve never heard a cacophony of frogs before.

More hill. After topping up our sunscreen, I think it’s time to find lodgings. We come across one, and I’m tempted but it’s still a little out the way to be ideal. And I know have an hour of walking in me, so we head your maps. At that moment, an American couple we’ve passed twice today, lets us know they’re heading to the church and monastery op the road - to see an ancient artefact . One that proves the Coastal Route was indeed used by early pilgrims (it dates to 859AD).

So, of course got to go see that! Of course it’s on top of a big hill. But I did it without stopping.

I’m concerned however. I don’t know whether I’m flushed from the cardio or I’m just burning at this point.

Found the church. Stamped our passports. And had some quiet time reflecting. Also a sign of not but on the same page, another Lisa and Chris has visited an hour before?

I also took some time to explore - which I am glad I did, because the church has a top level Necropolis. Stunning!!! The care and the detail in every family place was incredible.

But it was time to hang up the feet. I said goodbye to the pilgrims I’d walked with today and found a pink country guest house, nearby. And run by an old lady, who only knows Portuguese, but is such a welcoming host. And has a fully stocked kitchen of supplies to choose from.

Today has been a good day. My body did me proud. And my mind did me proud.

Body check: Same as yesterday - although arm bruises, I think from rucksack throwing.

Little things:
O small gestures of kindness from others that mean the world / American pilgrim paying for T & the donation of sheep wool for my tootsies.
O A room of my ownRead more