Madagaskar
Atsinanana Region

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    • Gün 13

      Pangalanes Canal

      13 Şubat 2023, Madagaskar

      Today we docked in Madagascar’s main seaport, Toamasina, and explored the area nearby.

      “Toamasina” means “it’s salty” and there’s a funny story behind the name. Many years ago, a man who had grown up in the highlands of Madagascar visited.

      He was thirsty after his long voyage, so he took a big swig of seawater only to exclaim, “It’s salty!” Somehow the name stuck.

      Our guide for the day was a fellow named Lachaka, which means “destiny” in Malagasy.
      The first part of our tour in Toamasina was a tour down the Pangalanes Canal.

      While a man steered the boat from the stern, a third guy stood on the bow keeping an eye out for any debris that might get tangled in our outboard engine along the way. (Even so, the boat broke down a couple of times during our trip.)

      Lachaka explained that the section of the canal we were on was man made during the colonial period and that, “Many, many workers died while digging here. Conditions were very bad, like slavery.” (This is a familiar refrain for canals of the world, alas.)

      These days, locals rely on the canal for fishing and trade. For many, this waterway is their main avenue for travel.

      Lachaka taught us how to say “hello” in Malagasy. People were quick to wave and return our greetings as we floated by.

      By the way, even though people do laundry in the canal, the women holding the sheet in these photos are using it to fish.

      Other things that piqued my interest included boats with sails made from rice bags, as well as the voluptuous carving on the prow of a ship.

      And while we’d been warned to keep an eye out for crocs, I did not expect to see a pink one today!
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 13

      Chameleons in Toamasina

      13 Şubat 2023, Madagaskar

      Some of the village kids in Madagascar make money by letting tourists like me pose with chameleons.

      Another group of kids had some cute little animals in a bucket with a hat nearby for tips. Do you know what type of animal they are? I wasn’t able to find out.

      Chickens wandered all over the village and I was surprised by how long their legs are.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 18

      Auf Akanin'ny rund ums Palmarium

      20 Mayıs, Madagaskar ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      Auf der Suche nach dem View Point im Regenwald im Regen. Julia hat ihn gefunden.
      Zwei Seen in der Ferne: Ampitabe-See, Rasoabe-See Durch Regenwald, Reisfelder, Vanille- und Ananas-Plantage. Die Riesen-Schnecken haben ihre Freude am Dauerregen.
      Heute Regen ohne Ende, zum Glück hatten wir gestern und vorgestern unsere Highlights im Trockenen.
      Beeindruckend auch wie früh und wie schnell es hier dunkel wird, um 18 Uhr ist es stockfinster , wir liegen zwischen Äquator und dem südlichen Wendekreis.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 19

      Abreise nach Taomisano

      21 Mayıs, Madagaskar ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Es hat die ganze Nacht geregnet.
      Sogar der schwarzweiß Vari am Morgen hat ein nasses Fell.
      Abreise im Regen gegen 8.45Uhr.
      Wir fahren im Pangalankanal nach Norden parallel zum indischen Ozean.
      Eukalyptus Bäume, Der Baum der Reisenden,Elefanten Ohr, Farne wachsen an der sandigen Uferböschung .
      Inzwischen hat der Regen aufgehört, das Wasser ist ruhig, die Luft ist mild...
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 20

      Taomasina/Tamatave

      22 Mayıs, Madagaskar ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Größte Industriestadt Madagaskars mit großem Hafen und Mangobahnhof. Wegen Flug Verschiebung heute kein Programm, dafür wieder Mal viel Regen.
      Ein verlorener Tag!?!
      Sonne oder Regen?!?
      Verfallene Kolonialbauten, cyklonbeschädigte Bauten, Rickschas, Tuktuk und Pousse-Pousses....Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 114

      Tamatave

      1 Kasım 2023, Madagaskar ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

      To fill some time, I grabbed a city tour in Tamatave and I'm so glad that I did!

      Tamatave is the 2nd largest city in Madagascar with about 275,000 people. It has a quaint slightly worn around the edges French Colonial feel, pleasantly warm weather, and is the shipping capital of the country.
      It is also 17,709km from Mountain View, CA - where I spent the first few months of my life.
      I've come a long ways, baby!

      The furthest possible distance on earth is about 20,000km: Someday. In the mean time.... Any which way I travel I am "going home" from here, which matches my general state of mind: I am ready to get closer vs further from friends and family.

      Rolien, my guide, did a great job of showing me around fairly quickly so that I could catch my plane. We jumped in/out of a tuk-tuk (Harivoby did a great job of driving us) for a great combo of motorized and pedestrian touring. I love a good tuk-tuk.

      Highlights for me were watching kids play and watching adults play, too. The former were focused on football (soccer) and a hoop and stick, also a group of young women doing a dance routine together.

      The latter were playing a game like bocci, under the speckled shade of old banyan trees.

      We saw some ruins, some dilapidated parks, a very nice alameda, and the partially completed "Miami" project: a huge waterfront project aimed at imitating its moniker with fitness areas, public restrooms, restaurants, basketball, skate park... All to drive tourism. It is a bold move and a major expense that could really change the feel of Tamatave. I hope it works for the city and its inhabitants.

      The tour also included a nice market where I would have liked to pick up some souvenirs, but my backpack overfloweth already.

      The raw-meat-on-the-counter wasn't my favorite, but I did like the fruit/veggie area very much.

      Got to the airport with time to spare. I skipped lunch/dinner, but had some trail mix and... I've been overeating for days so it's probably a good thing.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 55

      Toamasina

      12 Ocak, Madagaskar ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Back to the east coast of Madagascar and it's raining. We got a shuttle bus, which was a bone shaker, into the town and we were dropped near a big market. Lots of rickshaws and tuktuks and the roads were very rough.
      Millie and I hired a tuktuk to go to the Pangalanes canal. Amy and Phil got a bicycle rickshaw. We got a canal boat and sailed up the canal. There were lots of canoes carved from tree trunks, people spear fishing in the canal and bamboo barges. Lots of cargo transported on the canal. We stopped at a small settlement. There was a fruit stall beside the main road selling bananas coconuts and sugar cane. We sampled the sugar cane.
      When we left the boat we swapped to the cycle rickshaw . Millie had a go at driving the rickshaw but it was hard work.
      They took us to a grotty beach so we asked them to take us to a better one. The Tuktuk driver was pushing the rickshaw which helped our progress.
      The sea was too rough to swim but Millie went in. There were fishermen pulling a net up the beach. Also a big wreck near the beach.
      Afterwards we went back to the market and I bought some t-shirts, fridge magnet tuktuk and turtle.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 112

      Village Jaunt

      30 Ekim 2023, Madagaskar ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

      Shortly after arriving at my hotel I met three delightful guests who are from France but live in Antananarivo and took a vacation.

      We all enjoyed saying hello, then they invited me to join them in a walk to a local village. The walk was about 6km (3+ miles) round trip on spectacularly pretty beaches and through brush. We bumped into a few groups of people who looked to be using branches to corral fish into a big net- a technique I've seen several times in Africa. Based on the fine mesh of the net, I suspect they are catching really small fish, which is probably not all that sustainable... But this is mere conjecture on my part as we didn't see them when done, only when beginning.

      Their bashful smiles and giggles amongst themselves makes me think that maybe they don't see a lot of people who look like the four of us. "Vazaha" means stranger around here, and usually means of European extraction, sorta like "Gringo" in Latin America - not necessarily a perjorative term.

      The village was almost entirely built of thatch huts. Most looked pretty solid, some a bit squalid, not so different from any village anywhere: some folks invest more in their surroundings than others.

      When we arrived we were greeted by a growing number of curious children, and eventually a friendly guy in his ~20s named Ndrina Fabrice, who was visiting his parents. So we sat on the beautiful beach, chatted with our new friend, and played with the kids - who slowly got past their bashfulness; some candied peanuts really helped.

      The local store/bar sold beer at ambient temps (~30° / 85°) and to my surprise... I've acquired a tolerance for it. I suspect that setting and company makes a big difference and still *prefer* my beer chilled. But when in off-grid Madagascar, one adapts.

      We eventually said our bonsoirs and headed back to the resort with a beautiful sunset lighting our way.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 113

      Palmarium

      31 Ekim 2023, Madagaskar ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

      Fancy hotel w semi tame lemurs?
      Ok. I'll go.

      Also vanilla
      And tortoises, fairly large and apparently ready to get it on.

      The place was a little like Mada-disney, but it was fun and they had wifi.

      They also had howling wind that made the beach unpleasant. I'm glad to be staying a lower-key resort.

      The ride there, along the Palangala Canal, was wild.... Jungle grows into the waterway. Birds and rustling things can be briefly glimpsed, sometimes heard. People were smiling and waving as we went by and while they lived their lives beside the waterway in quaint thatch huts. From an outside view, and for a brief moment, it seems idyllic.

      I ended up cancelling my nocturnal aye-aye hike. In part I didn't want to wait around five hours, but also I realized that the guide was liable to walk us a few hundred yards, point at another lemur, and that's that, except... At night. Not that I want to *not* see another, just that I guess the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

      Instead we grabbed a picnic on a quieter beach, took a snooze, then boated up the canal to a cute lil fishing village to walk home.

      I'm enthralled by the natural beauty here. It's a very special place.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 112

      Akinan'ny Nofy

      30 Ekim 2023, Madagaskar

      I'm sitting with my feet in soft white sand, and looking at brilliantly green plants growing out of lakewater that is just a mere shade darker than the brilliantly blue sky.

      It feels like I've crawled into a Kodachrome universe that's so bright it hurts. Ok, maybe Velvia, if I'm being literal instead of poetic, but the former sounds better.

      It's beautiful; warm, but not particularly muggy and there's a gentle breeze ruffling the trees.

      I've taken one hike and two swims in one of the two lakes that surround the resort where I'm staying, watched a sunset and a sunrise, played cards over dinner (boulet? Incredibly complicated and no easier in mostly-French), slept deeply, oggled the nearly full moon as she slipped out of the sky, and enjoyed the company of some semi-tame Indri Indri.
      Okumaya devam et

    Burayı şu adlarla da biliyor olabilirsiniz:

    Atsinanana Region, Atsinanana

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