Senegal

March 2024
A 13-day adventure by Mary Kieran Gap Year Read more
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  • 7.1kkilometers
  • Day 54-56: Baltimore Pit Stop & Dune

    March 6 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Against Kieran’s advise, Mary started an Invisalign treatment 1 year ago to fix that smile. It was necessary to come back to Baltimore for a 14 week check in on those pearly whites.

    However, it was perfect timing to see Dune 2 with friends and visit nieces Rotini, Parmesan, and Mozzarella. The movie was awesome, Timothée Chalamet and Zendaya killed it, and we had an amazing time catching up. Thank you to squad for rolling up on a Tuesday and taking over the movie theater, thank you to John and Julia for picking us up at the airport, and thank you to Laura and James for hosting us with the babies.

    On to our next continent, Africa!
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  • Day 2

    Day 57/58: Travel & Pointe des Almadies

    March 8 in Senegal ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    We took a red eye flight to Dakar with Royal Air Maroc. Our layover was in Casablanca Morocco, but Mary’s sleeping pills were too much and she slept face down in a cafe until the next flight. We eventually boarded, slept more, and woke up in Dakar at 7:30pm. After waiting on the express bus for an hour, we eventually hailed a cab and got to the Villa Jade Hotel at 10:30pm. Grabbed some French tacos at 11:30pm to ended our long travel day.

    The next day we enjoyed our complementary hotel breakfast and continued to nap until 1pm (we were still tired). We got dressed and walked around the Ngor neighborhood and trekked to Plage de la Pointe des Almadies (the most Western point of mainland Africa). Because we are easily identified as foreigners, we are approached on the street by vendors and restaurant promoters to come into their shops. One man was super persistent, and we caved to eat at his restaurant. He walked us down to a beautiful little beach shop and had delicious Senegalese BBQ fish (Thiof). You couldn’t beat the beach view and local fishermen working.

    Hotel: Villa Jade
    Restaurant: Restaurant Chez Mamy

    Food:
    French Tacos
    Grilled Thiof with Alloco and Atieke

    Spots:
    Ngor Neighborhood
    US Embassy
    UNICEF WCARO & SCO
    Plage de la Pointe des Almadies
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  • Day 4

    Day 59/60: Corniche Ouest & Downtown

    March 10 in Senegal ⋅ 🌬 75 °F

    Having traveled to Europe, South America, and Asia, we have never struggled more with jet lag and time zone differences than Senegal. Both days we made the mistake of waking up at 9am for breakfast and hoping into bed for a quick nap that somehow turns into 1pm!

    In the late afternoons, the weather has been awesome to explore the Corniche Ouest, which is a coastal highway made up of monuments, fish markets, beaches, mosques, and scenic views. We saw the African Resistance Monument, Mosque of the Divinity, and beautiful waves on the Corniche Ouest.

    Since Dakar is 95% Muslim, we headed to the Marche Sandaga where we successfully haggled for a head scarf and one more long sleeve shirt. Kieran is way better at walking away than I am.

    Our little hotel also has a pool so we enjoyed our evening drinking wine and enjoying the weather.

    Restaurants:
    Keur Khalil
    FRIAL CAFÉ
    Poz Tacos

    Food:
    Grilled Thiof
    Chicken de Coco
    5 Legume Soup
    French Tacos

    Spots:
    African Resistance Monument
    Mosque of the Divinity
    Corniche Ouest
    Marche Sandaga
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  • Day 6

    61/62: Goree Island & Slavery

    March 12 in Senegal ⋅ 🌬 75 °F

    Today’s subject is slavery. While American textbooks focus on Africa as a whole, majority of slaves were taken from West Africa and specifically Senegal, due to its strategic location from Europe, South America, and North America. Specifically the Portuguese and French set up a transition post on an island 30 minutes from Senegal named Goree. Here they would test the durability and sublimation of men, women, and children by putting them through countless torture and inhumane conditions. It’s estimated 6 million West Africans lost their life while on Goree.

    It was an emotional and enlightening experience to visit the Slave House and see the conditions faced. The Door of No Return was considered the last stop where West Africans were taken to the boat and never seen by their families again.

    We are grateful for our guide Elhladg who currently lives on the island and was able to provide perspective on both historical and current acts of colonialism and imperialism in Senegal. If you do plan to visit Senegal, we have his phone number and would recommend his guided tour.

    Spots:
    Goree Island
    Slave House
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  • Day 8

    63/64: Ngor Island

    March 14 in Senegal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    The next two days we ventured to Ngor Island, which is a small careless island 15 minutes north. You pay a boat driver $2 USD to drive you across with your bags. The island has 3 different beaches and is unique because waves break right and break left.

    We enjoyed some beach days and interacting with the local animals. We fell in love with a beach cat named Le Chet and gave him many cuddles. We also got to watch a fishermen bring in a fish and eel! He cleaned it and gave the scraps to the beach cats. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset and what’s and moon.

    Restaurants:
    Les Ateliers de Corinne

    Food:
    Soupou Yell
    Jus de Bouye

    Spots:
    Ngor Island
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  • Day 9

    Day 65: Ngor Surf Camp

    March 15 in Senegal ⋅ 🌙 72 °F

    Geologically unique, Dakar is one of the few locations in the world where waves break right and left. As a result, it’s a surfers paradise. There is a surf camp on Ngor Island where individuals can stay for a week, have their room and food covered, and surf three times a day.

    We got a day pass and surf lesson from the camp, which included dinner and breakfast. We meet the campers the previous night and they were from all over the world here to surf (Portugal, Australia, Germany, Denmark, New Zealand).

    We loved our lesson from Samuel and also had some delicious drinks. Ended the day with a nap, awesome beach grilled dinner, and coming back to Ngor Surf Camp to watch 1966 surf documentary Endless Summer.

    Restaurant:
    KEUR YAADIKOONE

    Food:
    Dorada
    Prawn and Mixed Skewers

    Spots:
    Virage Beach
    Ngor Surf Camp
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  • Day 11

    Day 66/67: Lake Retba & Kieran’s Bday

    March 17 in Senegal ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    The next two days we ventured out to Lac Rose which in January has a pink hue due to a combination of algae, sun, and wind. We didn’t see any pink, but we enjoyed venturing into more suburban regions of Senegal where there are as many horses and wagons on the road as there are cars.

    The lake is close to the ocean so there is a mix of fresh and salt water, as well as salt mining operations.

    We made our way back to Dakar to celebrate Kieran’s 31st birthday. We agreed to wait on a birthday dinner in Tunisia, but enjoyed our hotel restaurant which catches seafood fresh. Also caught up with Kieran’s parents over Zoom!

    Finally, we’ve been watching a Last of Us II play through on YouTube and ended the evening with beer, rum, and the finale to the game.

    Hotel: La Cabane du Pêcheur

    Restaurant:
    La Cabane du Pêcheur
    Shady’s Grill

    Food:
    Ceviche (with fruit!)
    Sautéd Shrimp
    Shwarma

    Spots:
    Lac Rose
    Ngor Beach
    Malibu Beach
    Niaga
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  • Day 13

    Day 68/69: 48 Hours of Travel & Guinea

    March 19 in Guinea ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    When we previously planned our West Africa trip, we wanted to visit the countries of The Gambia, Sierra Leon, and Guinea. However, Kieran did a bit more research while in Bolivia and learned that it’s $300 - $400 in visa costs and we’re only staying for 4 days at each location. We decided it would be more affordable to stay in Senegal for the full time.

    Slight catch, we booked a direct flight from Guinea to Tunisia so we hopped on a local plane to make our flight. Thus began a wild 48 hour travel day.

    1) We arrived to Dakar airport 2 hours early and the ticket counter told us to wait for our tickets. We watch as a huge line forms with trolleys of checked baggage. The line was slow so we sat and wait. There are four people left so we hop in line. The ticket counter man saw us and was like “Wait, you guys are going to Guinea right?” We continue to wait and the counter man comes up, says to sit down with him on the bench, and then he under hands our plane tickets to Kieran and nods his head. After we get to the gate, we realized the flight was overweight with the baggage so the last four people in line were not going to make that flight. The counter man had handed us the last two tickets discreetly. First time showing up 2 hours earlier has actually made a difference.

    2) Guinea has a transit visa which is $50 but their website did not work and wouldn’t let us pay for the application. We show up, get some big Cillian Murphy sass face from the border man, and are brought to the head police commissioner for the airport to pay for our visas with USD from our emergency stash (shout out to coworker Mark Siyluy whose money gift got us into Guinea).

    3) Mary booked a temporary spot in Guinea in case anything went wrong. The apartment was without water, power, and in an underdeveloped neighborhood. We used buckets of water to wash our dishes and the toilets. We had no cell service via our Verizon and international SIM card.

    4) We get to the airport early to avoid the checkin fiasco from Dakar. Desperate for any form of entertainment, Mary caved in and agreed to relearn cribbage, her least favorite card game. We played for hours and enjoyed some airport beer and wine. Shout out to Becca and Jonah’s wedding favor: card deck with with Kaya printed on the case.

    5) Finally we hop on the red eye flight to Tunisia and they put us in the exit row which couldn’t lean back. Luckily we had the middle seat to ourselves to stretch out. The flight ended up stopping back in Dakar and then we arrived in Tunisia at 5am.

    It was a wild, stressful, tired, and steaming hot 24 hours, but very happy for the small moments and Guinness Beer.

    Spots:
    Guinea
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