Mayotte
Kani-Kéli

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    • Day 74

      Dolphins Always Smile

      September 22, 2023 in Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

      I sure like sea mammals.

      As we were approaching the southern tip of the island, Kimi and I were saying: this was a perfect sail, now we just need dolphins! And a few minutes later (might have been an hour, time does funny things while sailing) we saw some splishes off to starboard and happily welcomed our welcome committee.

      They danced along our bow for a little while, cavorting effortlessly, and watching us as much as we were watching them, I suspect.

      I hope to always feel this childlike sense of wonder upon seeing these marvelous animals.
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    • Day 124

      Mayotte, Comoros

      April 14, 2023 in Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

      New-to-us port #35.

      Comoros? What? Where?

      This little known “overseas department and region and single territorial collectivity” of France, lies in the Mozambique Channel … between southeastern Africa and northwestern Madagascar. It consists of the islands of Grand and Petite Terre and some tiny islets.

      We tendered to Mamoudzou on Grand Terre, and joining forces with Sonia & Boris and Younga & David, we hopped in a taxi to spend a couple of hours communing with nature at Plage Ngouja.

      Hopping in the taxi was easy. Once negotiations were completed. Getting to the beach? Not so much. A ride that should have taken us an hour took twice as long due to construction in the direction we were traveling. Once past it, we fairly flew down the narrow road … except for slowing down at speed bumps in the towns and villages. The reason we inched along for about an hour was actually a relief as it confirmed that the return to Mamoudzou would not be problematic.

      After a quick photo op at Plage Musical to see what is probably the largest baobab tree of our visit to Africa yet, we arrived at our destination and made our way through a resort built out of cargo containers to the beach.

      No sooner were we in sight of the sand that we spotted lemurs in the trees, on the fence, and on people! The lemurs weren’t aggressive, but where food was involved they weren’t shy about climbing all over you. Younga was the only one in our group brave enough to do feed them as we stood aside and photographed the critters.

      Then, it was time for the snorkelers to don their gear and head out in search of the coral, tropical fish, and turtles that reviews said were a highlight of Plage Ngouja. The rest of us — David and I — found shade under a tree … much welcome, I might add, when the sun deigned to come out.

      Unfortunately for the snorkelers — except for the one turtle Younga saw — there was nothing to see in the water, which was a little murky due to the silt carried down by the recent rains. We later learned that the turtles were in a lagoon on the far side of the beach. At least the Indian Ocean was warm and everyone seemed to enjoy their swim.

      As anticipated, the return drive was uneventful and took just under an hour. By 5:30p, we were on the tender back to Insignia for the 7:00p sailaway. For some reason, however, it was well after 9:00p when we felt the ship finally moving. A mechanical issue? A medical emergency? A delayed tour? We don’t know. Maybe we’ll get some intel tomorrow.
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    • Day 91

      Mayotto, French Comoros

      April 14, 2023 in Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

      That is what Google say about Mayotte:

      Mayotte is an archipelago in the Indian Ocean between Madagascar and the coast of Mozambique. It’s a department and region of France, though traditional Mayotte culture is most closely related to that of the neighboring Comoros islands. The Mayotte archipelago is surrounded by a coral barrier reef, which shelters a lagoon and marine reserve that are popular diving destinations.

      When I saw coral barrier reef in above description, I needed to go snorkeling.
      We read that the best beach for it is about one hour away from tender boat.

      So, six of us hired a taxi to take us there, then we thought, three hours on the beach and one hour back. Unfortunately, it took us two hours to reach that beach, then it was a long walk to the beach, some time spent with lemurs. I brought a banana for them and as soon as I got banana out, they jumped on me, I dropped banana and 🏃‍♀️.

      We settle on the beach, put our snorkeling gear on and went to find fish and corals.
      The water was as warm as a bathtub, but….no fish and no corals. One of our friends saw a turtle.
      We were a little concerned about how long it would take us to get back, so we packed and got back in the car that was waiting for us. The trip back took us an hour, no traffic.

      Back on the ship, we took shower, changed and had a lovely dinner all six of us in the Main Dinning Room.
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    • Day 75

      Turtle Cove

      September 23, 2023 in Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

      We sailed, sometimes with good wind, down to the SE portion of Mayotte and were blown away by the beauty underwater. There's a cute boutique hotel on an isolated beach and a beachfront restaurant with wildly overpriced food (but tasty coffee)... and not much else.

      Except the reef. Which is healthy and fabulous. And the lemurs, which were curious and fun to watch. And the baobab trees: Seussian and enormous. And I've seen at least 10 turtles, many of whom weren't the keast bit bothered by swimming akongside a hairless ape.

      We stayed two nights, moored to a really nice buoy that is located practically on top of a large coral head - a coral "patata" in local parlance. The french call everything a potato.

      I spent hours swimming amongst the brilliant colors and looking for fun things to shoot, with my camera. Everything inside the lagoon of Mayotte is protected from hunting and commercial fishing, which helps explain why it is so healthy and vibrant. Good policy (well enforced) helps everyone. Apparently the fishing just outside the lagoon is spectacular.

      Phil and Kimi have been generous and affable, I enjoy their company very much. They'll be pushing on towards South Africa soon and I hope our paths cross down the line somewhere.
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    Kani-Kéli, Kani-Keli

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