Camino de Santiago

April - Mei 2024
  • Mike Orr
Pengembaraan 38hari oleh Mike Baca lagi
  • Mike Orr

Senarai negara

  • Sepanyol Sepanyol
  • Perancis Perancis
Kategori
Penemuan diri, Perjalanan tunggal, Kerohanian
  • 1.6rbbatu perjalanan
Cara pengangkutan
  • Berjalan846kilometer
  • Penerbangan833kilometer
  • Pendakian-kilometer
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  • 38footprint
  • 38hari
  • 265gambar
  • 180suka
  • Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercian

    22 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    280 miles done. 220 to go. 56%…over half way

    16 miles walk today, and met several people along the way for whom the pain of blisters, or a hurt ankle, or other malady is a struggle. Prayers for them as they slowly push through their pain on the Camino.

    Around lunchtime, I found a little place that advertised pizzas. I’d been craving one. They had many options, but I chose the Tex Mex one and it was fantastic to have some spicy food… Spanish food (at least that I’ve encountered) isn’t spicy at all and is fairly bland, similar to English food. The Tex Mex pizza hit the spot.

    Dinner was a typical pilgrims meal… and bland. lol.

    Downloaded a couple episodes of Franklin on AppleTV and watched them before bed. Amazing forefather of the US who was gifted in so many various ways.

    Till tomorrow—
    Baca lagi

  • Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de

    23 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 39 °F

    296 miles done. 204 to go. 59%!

    Coming near the end of the Meseta and the farmland as far as you can see. I’m excited to get past León and enter the last 200 miles of the journey. Especially looking forward to having my second and last rest day in Leon to do laundry and relax my legs a bit.

    It was chilly today and I feel like I can’t get warm enough. Still, wearing sandals at the end of the daily walk feels amazing, so I added socks to my sandals. Not just socks, but toe socks. So yeah. Judge me. You’d have done the same. On the Camino, all sense of fashion or what is right or proper is out the window. I saw a couple at breakfast who were wearing “long johns,” but not the kind that you wear skiing. They were very thin and black, like thicker pantyhose, and they were wearing them over their white underwear, at breakfast. Pretty much entirely see-through, with his tighty-whities and her granny-panties all bunched up underneath the black hosiery. So, we all wear what we have, what may or may not be semi-clean (I really really need to find a laundry tomorrow), and we just roll with it.

    Joined a table of pilgrims tonight and traded lots of stories and reasons why we are on the Camino. The consensus was really “why not?” and “finding myself.” Same.

    León tomorrow and rest day there the next. Needed!
    Baca lagi

  • Mansilla de las Mulas to León

    24 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 37 °F

    308 miles done. 192 to go. 62%!

    There were no cars coming. I looked both ways. There wasn’t a cross walk, so I crossed. Immediately after getting to the other side of the street, two police officers appeared and motioned for me to come to them. Immediately there was a pit in my stomach. Was I going to be arrested for jaywalking?

    The León police asked me for my passport. So, I got out my US passport and they looked at it and said excitedly, “Colorado!” What they really wanted though was my Camino passport. And out of one of their vests, they pulled their little stamp device in order to give me a stamp in my Camino passport. Then they said “Goodbye Colorado!” and walked away.

    I’m so glad I’m not in jail for jaywalking. But now I have a fun police stamp in my Camino passport (see pics).

    Toured the Cathedral, ate a huge lunch of pasta and cheese, did laundry, took a nap, met up with my Australian gals, late dinner. Tomorrow is a rest day here in León. Gonna do all the touristy things. Very long walk on Friday, so I’ll need the rest. Buenas noches!
    Baca lagi

  • León Rest Day

    24 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    308 miles done. 192 to go. 62%!

    Day in Leon. I had a slow morning after sleeping till 9:00 am, then spent an hour at a cafe eating breakfast and deciding what to do with my day.

    Went to the Museo Casa Botines Gaudi and learned all about Gaudi’s architectural style and influences. Then dropped by the meat and fish market and once I saw you can buy a whole head of a cow, I was out. Eww.

    Then, just like every other town along the way, it was 1:30 pm and every business closes up shop for siesta. And then… it rained. Fiercely for the rest of the afternoon, and the forecast is for off and on rain the next 10 days. Ugh. I’ll have to time my walking to the forecast of the lightest rain. Tomorrow is a 20 mile day, so I’m sure I’ll need to find cover at some point to escape the weather.

    Met up with some fellow pilgrims for drinks and tapas for dinner and then caught up on the news (and what the heck is going on with the stock market?! 😬).

    Check out the view from my hotel room! Couldn’t be closer to the Cathedral! Gotta get up early-ish to walk and beat the rain. Night!
    Baca lagi

  • León to Hospital de Órbigo

    26 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    328 miles done. 172 to go. 66%!

    Woke up and hit the road. I noticed that Spain treats Thursday nights like the start of the weekend and everything is closed on Fridays until late morning. Even cafes. So I started on my way at 8:00 am and walked for 3 hours before I found an open cafe. Had a quick coffee and then walked another 3.5 hours to my destination, Hospital de Órbigo. The walk itself wasn’t scenic… it was mostly along the side of highways and through industrial areas on the outskirts of Leon.

    Hadn’t eaten breakfast or lunch, so I grabbed a burger at a little bar nearby the hotel after walking in mid-afternoon which sufficed for both lunch and dinner. I still have yet to have a good burger here in Spain.

    The Comic Sans font is used EVERYWHERE in Spain. On municipal signage, on menus, on billboards and other advertisements… really. It’s maddening! The only place this font should be used is in daycare centers as a cheerful font for 4 or 5 year olds who are learning to read. That’s it. Stepping down off soapbox now…

    Had a zoom meeting this evening with others who I will be walking with on the Portuguese Camino in October. I’m looking forward to seeing how that landscape differs from the Camino Frances.

    Rain, rain, and more rain forecast for tomorrow. Looks like it’ll be a wet day!
    Baca lagi

  • Hospital de Órbigo to Astorga

    27 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    339 miles done. 161 to go.

    More scenic landscape today on this other side of León. Was a short day and I was finished walking for the day by 11:30 am, so I was able to walk around Astorga and visit the Cathedral and the Palacio de Gaudi.

    By 3:00 pm, I was starving and at both a hot dog and a flatbread (don’t judge) and then decided to take a nap. Woke up 4 hours later… whoops! Hopefully will still be able to sleep tonight!
    Baca lagi

  • Astorga to Foncebadón

    28 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    355 miles done. 145 to go.

    Slept 11 hours last night. Guess my body needed it! Today was 16 miles, all uphill…but a steady uphill. And it was gorgeous… the trail was flanked by flowering plants and bushes, from blues, to purples, to white, to yellow. And the smell of lavender all along the route was fantastic. To my southwest view all day was a snow covered peak and as I ascended the trail the entire day, I ended right below the snow line in a little village with a fantastic albergue that I’m staying at tonight. The place is charming and the food was fantastic.Baca lagi

  • Foncebadón to Ponferrada

    29 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 36 °F

    371 miles done. 129 to go.

    Some steep and very rocky trails to descend today into Ponferrada. 5.5 hours of being careful to not sprain an ankle with a wrong step is kind of exhausting! Gorgeous views again today. I’m at 75% of the way!

    I went to a highly rated Italian restaurant and ate my heart out. But I couldn’t decide between the risotto or the pizza… so I ordered both.

    The risotto with Gorgonzola cheese, sliced almonds, candied pear, emmental cheese, and crispy bacon?… heaven in a skillet.

    The pizza was chicken and pepperoni and bbq sauce on a super thin crust. It was delicious.

    But I was embarrassed that I only ate half of each. Because I really ordered two entrees that could have fed 4 people. So I asked for a to-go box. They packaged everything up perfectly and halfway through my walk home, I admitted to myself that 1) I have no refrigeration in my dorm-room size alburgue, 2) I have to be up in 8 hours to walk again, and 3) I’ve already pre-paid for breakfast tomorrow morning at my accommodation. So, I donated it to a trash bin.

    I really didn’t want to admit that I was ok being wasteful by ordering twice what I actually needed just to have some variety, and then I doubled down on this wastefulness by getting a to-go bag with all the packaging, just to then throw it away. Ugh.

    But now overstuffed and overwalked, I’m going to sleep. Night!
    Baca lagi

  • Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

    30 April 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    386 miles done. 114 to go.

    Overcast day, but the cool weather was nice. Half of the walk today was out of Ponferrada in industrial areas and then suburban neighborhoods, leading to the hill country of vineyards and orchards.

    Took a nap once I got to town. And then had beers with a fellow pilgrim from Copenhagen who is now listening to the same audiobook I recommended to him… so, does that qualify as a book club meeting?

    Tomorrow is going to be slow. And uphill. And tough. I’m looking forward to it. Night!
    Baca lagi

  • Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro

    1 Mei 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    403 miles done. 97 to go.

    Today was a challenge. 800 m (.5 mile) elevation gain over 17 extremely muddy miles through the rain, sleet, and snow. I took a lot of breaks just for sanity. And, I stubbed my toe this morning on the corner of the bed, so walking with a bloody big toe added to the fun.

    I made it over the border from the Castilla y León region to the Galicia region, and was immediately welcomed by the sound of bagpipes in the distance, an instrument known here since medieval times.

    The village is cute… but really straight out of the 1400s. About a dozen buildings. All stone. Some with thatch roofs. Three restaurants in total. Feral cats and chickens scatter around every corner as you walk around the village. It’s almost like a movie set for “A Knight’s Tale.”

    I’m wiped after that mountain climb and a heavy “pilgrims dinner” of Galician soup, steak and frites, and a dessert of queso and honey.

    It is still snowing outside, but not sticking. Tomorrow is a trek downhill on the other side of this mountain. Hopefully through not as much mud as today. Night!
    Baca lagi