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Camino de Santiago

abril - maio 2024
  • Mike Orr
Uma 38aventura de um dia na Mike Leia mais
  • Mike Orr

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  • Espanha Espanha
  • França França
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Autodescobrimento, Viagem desacompanhado, Espiritualidade
  • 1,6kmilhas percorridas
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  • 38pegadas
  • 38dias
  • 265fotos
  • 180curtidas
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  • Mike OrrViajanteCamino de Santiago

    Logroño to Nájera

    11 de abril de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    136 miles done. 364 to go.

    Whew! Another long day of 19 miles on the Camino. I’m grateful that tomorrow is only 13 miles. While the past week has had sporadic fields of grapevines, today was pretty much solely wine country. Spring is certainly here and the vines are beginning to burst forth from their dormancy with fresh new suckers reaching for the sun.

    Finished Nadia’s audiobook, Shameless, and walked in silence for hours, enjoying the vastness of La Rioja region.

    Small town to stay in tonight, Nájera, which was once the capital city of the Kingdom of Navarre. I arrived after 7.5 hours of walking into a town that was… dead. 3:45 pm. Not a soul to be seen. Like ghost town. This town takes siesta seriously. Most businesses close at 2:00 pm and open back up at 5:00 pm at the earliest, but many later.

    Met two Austrians and one German who are also on Camino and stayed up way too late. Walking the Camino is a matter of self: your feet, your back, your mind, your soul… but the people you meet and the stories shared are the most beautiful part of the journey.    Leia mais

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  • Mike OrrViajanteCamino de Santiago
    1

    Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    12 de abril de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    149 miles walked. 351 to go.

    Do you miss carbs? Or, do you crave carbs but wish you could just gorge yourself without any added weight consequences? Have I got a plan for you! All you have to do is walk an average of 18 miles a day in the sweltering heat on the Camino de Santiago and you can eat whatever carbs you desire, and sweat out whatever beverages you fancy, without consequence!*

    Seriously though, I’m eating ALL THE THINGS and simply just have to in order to replenish my body with energy to be able to either recover from my walk, or prepare to conquer the next day. So, I’ve had more bread in the past two weeks than I’ve consumed in the past year. The hunger pangs are real, and this whole siesta time for businesses closing up shop in the afternoon and restaurants not opening until 8:30 is making me crazy! Imma bout to strap a loaf of bread to my backpack and open up shop on the Camino for those of us who need a carb fix.

    But that’s been the yeast of my problems (pun very much intended). Through training over the last several months and these first couple weeks of Camino walking, I’ve worn out my insoles. I thankfully found a sporting good store last night and bought new insoles and the difference is night and day. I think I may actually be able to pull off the 351 miles left!

    This is the point in the trip where everyone is showing off their blisters to one another. I’ve seen some gnarly ones… one the size of a silver dollar on the heel of someone. Another where the blister was long and wrapped itself around the top of the big toe and down between and below the next toe. Another had so many bandaids of his feet, you could barely see any skin showing. Ouch! I’m not able show off any battle wounds, cause I’ve got none. I’m holding up. For now.

    Carb loaded. Vino blanco filled. Sleep deprived. Till tomorrow…

    * Assuming some sense of moderation, but you know, whatever. You do you. You do the Way, your way.    Leia mais

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  • Mike OrrViajanteCamino de Santiago

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

    13 de abril de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    163 miles done. 337 to go.

    This morning I got up super early to walk because the temperature was in the 80s again. The sun is brutal and getting up and getting the walk over before it is scorching out was a good choice.

    I was up at 5 and out the door by 5:30 am which meant it was dark. Really dark. I can’t remember the last time I was in the pitch dark in the middle of nowhere, but it was amazing. The stars! So bright and I saw the most gorgeous falling star.

    I’m not going to make a habit of getting up early to walk though cause it was slightly dangerous in the ability to see where you are going. I had to use my phone flashlight often. Don’t want to sprain my ankle falling in a ditch!

    The sunrise was behind me but I took lots of time to stop and take it in: the brilliant colors on the horizon highlighting the mountains from which I’d traveled from.

    Having arrived too early in Belorado before check-in at my hostel, I enjoyed the public square and watching people as fluff from local poplar trees floated constantly all around.

    I need sleep, and lots of it. Till tomorrow, friends.    Leia mais

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  • Mike OrrViajanteCamino de Santiago
    1

    San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

    15 de abril de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    195 miles done. 305 to go. 39% of the way done!

    From random conversations on the Camino with people from every corner of the earth, I can say that the world waits with bated breath what is happening and how the dramas will play out in the United States… Donald Trump, the world economy that rests on the shoulders of the US economy, the Israel/Palestine/Iran war, mass shootings and gun violence, and more. It’s an odd thing to feel both pride and shame for your country. I’ll be thinking on that a lot more I’m sure as I continue to meet pilgrims and be even more distanced via time from home.

    Today’s journey had every type of road surface. Giant rocks to traverse, gravel, grass, dirt, pavement… it was a long day of walking, 7 hours. But, I made it to my hotel just in time to learn they too also take siesta and didn’t open for a few more hours.

    FaceTimed with my parents and they were happy to see me alive and well. Drank wine in the park at a cafe. And caught up on news from around the world before checking into my hotel. Then it was time to get things done…laundry and shopping.

    My Altra Lone Peak 7 shoes simply couldn’t handle the demands of the Camino. I bought them in December and trained lightly with them, but the treads are now worn completely down on the heels, the padding inside the heels has been rubbed away, and the insoles became paper thin and hurt. Even buying new insoles didn’t save the day. Goodbye old friends. You served me well, but I’ll be contacting customer service with photos because you should have been able to last the journey with me at the very least.

    So, out with the old and in with the new. I found a great store with very knowledgable (and thankfully English speaking) staff who helped me find my new companions for the remainder of this wild journey: Merrell Agility Peak 5s. Pricey, but my feet are worth every penny if I’m to finish the Camino in the next few weeks.

    Best wine tonight of the entire Camino and supposedly only bottled for this restaurant. I’m challenging our good friend and wine connoisseur, Tom Wehr, to find this wine and import it by the case for me. Medium rare steak with a whipped roquefort butter is a heavenly combination worth trying to replicate at home. And finished with a cheese custard made with three cheeses from Spain, France, and Italy on a caramel drizzle base with brown butter crumble. Spoiled myself tonight. #worthit

    Rest day tomorrow in Burgos. Sightseeing at the cathedral, the castle, and museums.

    Night friends!    Leia mais

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  • Mike OrrViajanteCamino de Santiago

    Burgos rest day

    16 de abril de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    195 miles done. 305 to go. 39% of the way.

    Rest day today in Burgos, Spain. Had breakfast and then toured the Cathedral. The immense wealth and treasures from hundreds of years ago was staggering. While walking on the Camino the past few days, I’ve been listening to the audiobook of Pillars of the Earth by Ken Follett that explores the intertwined lives of a stonemason and his family and a monk who rises through the ranks in the church and their subsequent work together in building a cathedral in the 1100s. To be visiting cathedrals and envisioning the cultural and religious landscapes in the time which these cathedrals were being built is a great listening experience while on Camino. I’d read the book before, but it is much different listening and walking in the shadows of these magnificent buildings than simply reading the book back home.

    After the Cathedral, I spent a couple of hours at the Museum of Human Evolution. It was fascinating. Spain is home to some major archeological sites (Atapuerca being the chief among them, which is just outside Burgos). The way that scientists, in their various fields, have been able to piece together our ancestral beginnings and present them in an easy-to-navigate museum was a great learning opportunity. Highly recommend if you are ever in Burgos.

    Dinner was ahhhhmazing. I found a highly rated restaurant in all of Burgos, Restaurante Casa Ojeda (as far as fine dining is concerned because Burger King also had the same amount of stars).

    1. Vino Tinto (local house red wine)

    2. Sopa Castellana (Castilian Soup) Made with garlic, paprika, olive oil, and a boiled egg, garnished with pancetta, and served with crusty bread. If ever on death row, this would be a part of my final meal, just as an FYI.

    3. Confitado de Cordero con Risotto de Verdura (Lamb Confit with Vegetable Risotto) Tender lamb morsels wrapped in prosciutto with an earthy risotto that tempered the sweetness of the au jus.

    4. Esfera de Chocolate (Chocolate Sphere) White chocolate sphere that melted open by poured hot chocolate revealing a sphere of coffee ice cream on top of a toffee crumble.

    5. Vino de Postre (local dessert wine from Castillo y Leon)

    6. Cappuccino con Pastas Dulces (coffee with sweet pastries)

    66€ ($70.09) Crazy, right?!

    If you wonder how I have the time to write these posts, remember I have nothing better to do this entire month than drink cafe con leches, walk, eat, drink vino, and visit the occasional church or museum. Mucho tiempo libre!    Leia mais

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  • Mike OrrViajanteCamino de Santiago
    1
    11

    Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    17 de abril de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    207 miles done. 293 to go. 41%

    Today was blah. Walked only 12 miles on this leg and one of the shortest distances of all of my planned walking days. The walk today covered the beginning of the Meseta, the central plateau/tableland, of Spain.

    While walking out of Burgos, I walked the backside of the Cathedral which gave another impressive perspective of its enormity. Came across some signs of LGBTQ+ community inclusion, a bench and metalwork art of a pilgrim.

    Came across a little chapel where a nun asked to say a prayer over me for protection on my pilgrimage and then gave me a necklace with a little medallion.

    I should have eaten lunch in Burgos before walking because the dinner options in this little town I’m staying are bleaker than bleak. I settled for a burger and beer at what seemed like the better of the only two restaurants in town. It was easily the worst burger I’ve had in my life. Two stale pieces of crusty bread, a slice of yellowish thin cheese so oily that it was transparent, on a little burger patty that was rubbery yet still very rare at the same time (seems contradictory, right?). No lettuce, tomatoes, onion, pickles, or anything.

    Watched a movie on my phone, Scoop, on Netflix about the relationship of Prince Andrew and Jeffrey Epstein. Was a good flick.

    Off to bed!    Leia mais

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  • Mike OrrViajanteCamino de Santiago

    Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

    18 de abril de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    Another short day of only 12 miles today.
    219 miles done. 281 to go. 44%.

    Yesterday, I was talking with a couple pilgrims about memorial crosses along the way, and we pondered together about how many deaths might occur along the Camino per year. We supposed that heart attacks might lead the way, as well as car accidents, or weather occurrences. Curiosity got the best of me today and I learned that there are often two or three deaths per month on the Camino Frances for precisely those reasons.

    Along the Camino route today, I came across an albergue that has a full fledged spa facility! I thought this morning that I should throw my swimsuit in my daypack, not for any reason other than if I found a great little creek to rest by, I’d have the option to get in the water. I decided I didn’t need the extra 4 oz in my pack, and I’m kicking myself for it. I definitely would have spent the 25 euros to have a spa afternoon there! Should I ever be on the Camino Frances again, I’ll be definitely staying in Hontanas. https://alberguessantabrigida.com/hidroterapia-…

    I also found a castle home that I think Bryan would approve of. It has a fun statue fountain of a man peeing. lol

    Small town, not a lot to do. after my walk, I had a couple glasses of wine at a local watering hole surrounded by locals after work was over for them. And then took a nap for two hours, just in time to wake up for dinner. Or so I thought…

    Small town here, but they have 7 restaurants. I went to all of them! And not in a good way. I walked from one to another to another to find every single one closed. Learned that they all either take Thursdays off, or, they aren’t open yet for the season. Decided that bars here typically have food, so thought I’d give that a shot. The first two bar’s kitchens weren’t open tonight but the third bar (which I think was the last option) had a short list of food options… of the three options (patatas bravas, finger de pollo, jalapeño chedar), I chose the last two and at least now I have food in my belly.

    I’m going to need a big breakfast. Till tomorrow, night!    Leia mais

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  • Mike OrrViajanteCamino de Santiago

    Castrojeriz to Frómista

    19 de abril de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    235 miles done. 265 to go. 47%…almost half way!

    8 hours of walking today, but had great company with my audiobook, Pillars of the Earth, by Ken Follett. Bugs were very active today and it was annoying, but nothing to really do about it. Just blow your nose with like a dozen bug visitors in it, and do it again, and again.,. (Also, I found one in my teeth once I finally got to a mirror in a proper bathroom). Fiber.

    Got to my destination of Fromista and had drinks with two gals from Australia and a guy from Canada. Then off to my hotel which, and not an exaggeration, is an oasis. It is appointed nicely, and I took advantage of it. The Camino knows when you need a break. A real break. Like a shower with good water pressure. A little (very cold) dipping pool to put your sore feet in for a bit. A bottle of wine all to yourself for the afternoon with good WiFi to reconnect with your husband and life. And several hours where you have no expectations on yourself other than to just be. The entire place is encompassed by a soothing spa fragrance that is clean, inviting, and soothing. That was today. I needed it. And the Camino provided.

    In Spain, they don’t ask you how you like your meat cooked. And even if you have the foresight to try to tell them, it doesn’t actually matter. It will come from the kitchen as done as they like. Always rare at the top end, very rare often, and mooing if they are really busy. It is what it is, and you sometimes hope your beef tartare is of the quality that you won’t be heaving 4 hours later. (So far so good here)    Leia mais

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  • Mike OrrViajanteCamino de Santiago

    Frómista to Carrión de los Condes

    20 de abril de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    246 miles done. 254 to go. 49%…almost half way!

    Very short walk today and walked most of the way with Dianne and Sharon, a couple from Australia. They are a hoot and fun to talk to. Mostly grass fields and graveled paths today with very little elevation changes.

    Went to mass at the Catholic Church in town and then had a late pilgrim’s dinner. Tomorrow I will be at 50% of the total distance and as of today, I’m 21 days away from kissing Bryan again. It is true that distance makes the heart grow fonder. I’m missing a piece of me, and Bryan is that piece.

    Night!    Leia mais

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  • Mike OrrViajanteCamino de Santiago
    1

    Carrión de los Condes to Terradillos de

    21 de abril de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    262 miles done. 238 to go. 52%…I’m over half way!!

    16 miles walk today, so was a longer short walk today. Unfortunately in this season of the Camino, the Meseta, the scenery is quite bland. Just long grass, rapeseed (yellow flowing plant from my which canola oil is made from the seeds), and newly tilled dirt, everywhere. Nothing like the beginning of the Camino where at almost every peak, you gasp with taking in the beauty before you.

    Staying at the most rural of the alburgues I’ve stayed at thus far… it’s like a small farm just along the side of the road. But, I bought a bottle of their most expensive local rioja (12 €), and enjoyed it in the sun for 10 minutes (cause I just need a little color without getting burned) and then moved to the cooler shade.

    Had the pilgrims dinner full of carbs and then talk with Bryan before heading to bed. Night!    Leia mais

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