Starting with gigs in Berlin, ending with a gig in the UK and who knows where in between! Weiterlesen
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  • Hello Berlin

    22. Juli 2024 in Deutschland ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    What a city Berlin is. It has such a free, accepting, non-judgemental vibe. Graffiti, squats, community living, no bras, no bling and of course vegan everything. The streets and parks are unbelievably clean, and the people are so laid back, welcoming and full of smiles and vivacity. It feels safe and wholesome.
    We arrived late at night but the train to the city centre was clean (apart from a pile of vomit), bright and on time. We decided to walk the 45 minutes to our home exchange. What a wonderful way to be initiated into Berlin. I soon realised that unlike in the UK or Portugal, I didn't need to scrutinise the dark pavement; there simply was NO dog mess to avoid even in the alleyways.
    I could talk for hours about the genius of the home exchange system. I often thought it was such a waste that homes are empty as people travel and we give our money to hotels living in impersonal boxes often without even a window. Home exchange is the answer!! We had received detailed instructions from our host Angel and easily found the key in the lockbox on the bicycle outside the apartment complex. It took some investigating to find the lift in the dark but then we were in his bright apartment and now it's our temporary home for a week, for free. It's perfect. All the work getting my home ready for home exchange was worthwhile. Watch out world, here we come!
    Our 1st full day in Berlin was spent just walking and absorbing the city, oh and putting Chakra Shaker (and Wild Flower) stickers up. The art on the old Berlin wall, the graffiti everywhere, the green parks, the bridges and canals. Free, earnest people just going about their business. No tourist shops or particularly obvious tourism.
    We wandered back towards the apartment through Kreuzberg, which is so, so cool and then happened upon a window display advertising events at 'Wild at Heart'. What a thrill to see our poster front and centre. A surreal twist for the squarest girl at school to be headlining on a Saturday night at the coolest club in the coolest zone of the coolest city! I was writing to Paul on the plane and said that I often feel numb, like I've been sleeping in snow. Well, playing rock n roll is the defrost, living in the microwave for a couple of hours.
    And the food report for the day is not entirely what I expected, but delicious. A marzipan croissant, green chilli fried chicken and a vinaigrette coleslaw.... and a delicious pasty stout..... and a cherry porter.
    We're meeting the incredibly generous Marcus from 'Frontal Uranus' today. He is not only providing us with drums and backline but is now also driving us to our gig tonight and setting up a show on Friday.... all in exchange for opening for us on Saturday night. We've never even met him. The contact came from Grimm, an old school, true punk friend of Joe's. Grimm has bent over backwards to help. Sadly, he's no longer in Germany, so we won't meet him. ... something to do with being arrested for wearing a Palestine style scarf.... maybe not such a free city after all!
    Weiterlesen

  • Marcus and Joe at Cocoon waiting for EmilThe Ramone's bar, not playing any Ramones!When Joe got excited to see Halford's I thought he was referring to a bicycle shop!

    Friendship through music

    25. Juli 2024 in Deutschland ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Yesterday was the 1st show day. Our first objective was to meet the wonderfully generous Marcus from 'Uranus Front' who had promised to lend us a backline, drum kit, and instruments. We had never actually met or even spoken to Marcus, just exchanged concise text messages. We had an address on the other side of the city and a time.
    We had another long and interesting walk through Berlin parks, along the river, to a dead end and back out to meet Marcus at his gallery. Again, the route was clean and pleasant. Evidence of punk and rock in the names of the bars, the posters, graffiti, hair cuts and t-shirts. Evidence of the contradictory German discipline in the shocked looks when we crossed the road when 'Herr Ample' was red even though there were no cars in sight! If you've seen the German crosswalk figure, you'll understand the derivation of his name. Germany legalised possession of weed just recently but it's still a shady operation. We spotted the young men loitering in the park with amusement.
    All that we knew about the aforementioned Marcus was the mutual connection to Joe through his old friend and colleague Grimm. My exposure to Grimm has only been through the random voice messages that he's been leaving since he learnt that the legendary Joe Mac was going to be touring Berlin. These messages are mostly incomprehensible other than the profuse swearing, maniacal laughter and assurance that he's got everything covered. Likewise, Marcus only knew of us through his grimy old punk friend Grimm! So, we were taken aback to arrive at Marcus's gallery to hear him playing mesmerising gypsy jazz with a friend. He was equally surprised to meet 2 gentle, sober grey hairs! He truly was a legend, presenting us with better gear than we're used to.... Joe's Les Paul goldtop guitar was allegedly one of Slash's when he toured Berlin. The headstock had been repaired by Marcus's luthier friend who normally sells the guitars at great expense after the tour. ... but not the damaged ones. Marcus then drove us across town to set up for the gig.
    The next issue was that our drummer Stephen had not materialised off his flight. No problem, we soon had 2 drummers ready to play. As it turns out, both extremely talented and both exceptional human beings. The drummer of Uranus Front (Alex) and Emil, the friend of our home exchange host. Music is such a gift. We would not have connected with these wonderful souls any other way. The club was welcoming and the sound man professional and enthusiastic. A fabulous gig even if the audience could be counted on 1 hand. The 2 drummers switched out every couple of songs and much fun was had while innovative music was made.
    The day's food diary was as unimpressive as my photo taking for the day; a boring pretzel for breakfast, an apple in the park for lunch and boring spaghetti, with olive and peppers for dinner at midnight. I'm happy to be cooking sardine curry for dinner today!
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  • Backstage at Wild at Heart.
    Ready to rockGuitars with historySacha and Tasha. The sweetest merch man ever.Another new friendIf in doubt set everything to 12 o'clock!An end of show selfie with our audienceFree Palestine protest at the gay pride marchThe bridge between East and WestAnother beautiful park

    Wild at Heart!

    27. Juli 2024 in Deutschland ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The rest of our time in Berlin was all about playing the gigs. Uranus Front were beyond amazing. They were just the sweetest guys and were very excited to drive us around and setup all the incredible gear. The 1st joint gig was at the backstage bar at their practice suite. It was in a large Plattenbau converted into 24 hour practice rooms. A real feel of what it must have been like to live in Eastern Germany before the wall fell. The guys told us that our was really not that dramatic when the wall fell, just a gradual progression and the disappearance of the Stasi. No resentment from the West Berliners.
    Having only just met Felix, the bass player, I didn't want to touch the settings on his amp. The sound was weird and fuzzy but it was awesome to feel the bass vibrating up through my feet. It was refreshing to have an audience that wanted us to let go. The more raw and wild, the better! Uranus Front riff punk was certainly that! Marcus joined us on guitar for a couple of songs and magic happened. We turned some heads and proved that grey hairs can still rock.
    The gig at 'Wild at Heart' was a lifetime highlight. What a club, stickers and memorabilia everywhere! Run for 30 years by a sweet old punk couple, Uli and Lea. Such a treat that they remembered Joe playing there with Vegas Thunder in 2001. Soundcheck was over in a couple of minutes, such a professional operation.... and I asked Felix if I could adjust his amp... much better! Our band meal was a choice of musician themed burgers. My Elvis burger had peanut sauce, banana and pineapple and was the best burger that I've ever eaten.... mostly because it didn't taste of burger! Great receptive audience again encouraging us to live the rock dream up there.
    So the Berlin music scene has welcomed us wholeheartedly. There's a full tour to come in 2025 with Uranus Front and maybe a mini tour with Uli... he's looking for a rhythm section in Nuremberg, I'd have to learn relentless punk though... I'm not sure that I have the stamina!
    Our last day in Berlin was a peaceful stroll in the park and a beer in the biergarten. Very civilised. The thing that stands out is that in Berlin, people hold themselves with confidence and don't seem to be looking for a reaction even when wearing the most outrageous outfit. In the bars, friends are talking and engaging with each other. No phones, no looking around for something more interesting.
    Berlin, we'll be back!
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  • Leipzig and Dresden

    31. Juli 2024 in Deutschland ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    We were told that Leipzig was a little, hidden Berlin but more cool and hip.... it would seem that we were a few years too late for that. Yes, it's quaint and beautiful but it's been discovered. It's full to the brim with tourists with money. The winding streets around our hostel were solely upmarket restaurants. It was painfully oppressive walking through the streets during food service, which is basically all day. The closest that we came to eating in a restaurant was perusing the menu.... over 15€ for a pie, 12€ for a bowl of Pho, 16€ for a Thai curry. The saving grace was the wonderful hostel that we had private rooms in. Our rooms were more like an apartment with a roof terrace. We met cool people from all over the world, a sweet Albanian/ Italian who cooked a free hostel meal. A whole gang of music students from the UK.
    Dresden on the other hand was a real surprise. I was expecting a bombed out, uninteresting city. I was very wrong. It has a beautiful, reconstructed old river front part and an interesting, cosmopolitan new part. As a happy accident, I had booked a room in the new part. We took a short evening walk to the hip neighbourhood and the Kunsthof Passageway. Such beautiful colours and textures on the walls.
    That's it for Germany. How do you know when an area has become a tourist trap? When the most common word that you see is Vegan!!
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  • So so many people but it's easy to get away from the crowdsA hidden oasis but it doesn't stay quiet for long travelling with 2 drummers!A pretty church with a Christian youth fair outside.Every one of these buildings has intricate detail to be admiredHere comes the rain!More views

    Glorious Prague

    2.–6. Aug. 2024 in Tschechien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Prague was every bit as stunningly beautiful as everybody says. Every building deserves a look,
    We were staying in another Home Exchange.a couple of miles outside the centre in Praha 4. The tram service is incredible. Why don't all cities up their public transport in line with Prague instead of forcing people to buy electric cars?.... Surely having no car is better than having an electric car! The apartment was bright and cheery with so many thriving potted plants. Opening the fridge was a shock, the owner must have left in a hurry. The black mould on top of her porridge was an art piece. I asked her permission to throw it away but then blocked the toilet with just a few spoons of it! Never mind, I'm not squeamish, I fished it out and just threw it away. It was a reason to connect with Tereza the owner and what a joy it was getting to know her.
    We spent the 1st day walking the tourist paths and gawping at the spectacular city.
    I posted in a Prague musicians Facebook group asking if any bands needed a support band for the weekend, just to fit in one last gig. Coffice bar kindly said yes but we didn't have the equipment to make it happen. Although it's high season, that means all the musicians and hire companies are out of town at festivals. We did go to the jam at Coffice though and met some wonderful people. It was a diverse jam in 2 separate rooms but no drum kit or bass guitars at all. Some impressive and unusual vocal sounds. We ended up playing a few songs with Stephen on Cajone and me on piano. We made some friends through that who tried everything in their power to find equipment for the next night.... but no luck. No worries, we have the connections now to go back, but not in August!
    Our last day in Prague was spent on foot close to our apartment at Vyšehrad and then walking back down through the parks to the river. We had a 'sound of music' moment when a fierce thunderstorm came through. We sheltered in the graveyard crypt.... well standing on the wall because it was all locked up. We couldn't shelter in the beautiful church because there was a fee to enter and that's against my principles!
    We ended the day in a beer garden by the river listening to a wonderful jazz 3 piece.... until the heavens opened again. We'd been chatting in Portuguese to a Brazilian which was surreal and then all sheltered in the tunnel bar.... bad choice, the tunnel is obviously a flood relief channel, wet feet all round.
    We bade farewell to Stephen as he headed back to Portugal and then made a vague plan to move south. We ended up finding somewhere even more gorgeous than Prague......
    Weiterlesen

  • Impressive sundialSalami string and bread, we're ready for anything!

    Fairytale Cesky Krumlov

    5.–6. Aug. 2024 in Tschechien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Wow, I thought that Prague was beautiful, but it's the ugly duckling compared to Cesky Krumlov. An absolute fairytale town. Akin to my home town of Óbidos but with a meandering river babbling through. Perfect for strolling through and simply soaking up the beauty.
    Dinner was however questionable. I had what was described as a strong chicken broth with root vegetables and noodles.... read strong as salty!! One way to make sure that I drink enough water!
    We had an interesting onward journey. I foolishly assumed that the Flixbus would leave from where it dropped us off. Oops. Rethink the strategy for moving on.... just as well we're both firm believers in not crying over spilt milk.... and great at just waiting around. A shrug of the shoulders and move on. We had an unexpected but delightful walk along the river to the actual bus stop and ended up taking the train through Austria instead of the bus which was much more scenic.
    Time to go to Ljubljana, mostly to learn how to say it's name!
    Weiterlesen

  • One of the many pretty riverfront squares
    More dragons!We had been caught in torrential rain but sadly not to hear the water running through these drainsArmy barracks became art studios became squats became venues...no doubt soon to be vegan restaurantsWhen we come back we'll be playing here!!Banksy exhibitionA welcome mat, what a beautiful use of refugee life vests.

    Ljubljana, say that 5 times!

    6. August 2024 in Slowenien ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We rather accidentally found ourselves in Ljubljana. Austria was simply too expensive judging by prices on booking.com. and who wouldn't want to stay in a place with a j following an l, not just once but twice?! We changed trains in Salzburg and it immediately felt wonderfully different. An old compartment style train. It was such a blessing that we had missed that bus. Chugging through the mountainous, lush terrain was stunning.
    We arrived after dark in Ljubljana without a hotel reservation. How wonderfully old school. We had read about AKC Metalkova an autonomous cultural and arts centre and squat that is just by the train station. Of course it was magnetic to Joe. What a gloriously fascinating, unique and free space. My knowledge of squats is squat but I will say that I have been blown away by the genuine love and sweetness of the old punks that we continue to meet all over the world. I will always be a square but apparently I'm now also cool by musical association, so I'm welcomed without suspicion.
    I had my first drink in a squat bar.... (exciting to me because of the reference in the Chakra Shakers song, 'Underground'). The young punk girl was all hard edges but we cracked her. She said that the choice of beer was a red can or a green can but they both treated the same. So, we had one of each and yes, they tasted the same! Then we went in search of a room. The hostel in the AKC space was full but they suggested other hostels to try. There was a band playing free jazz.... wonderful to hear some live music even if it was mostly squawking. We walked through the park to another recommended hostel, also full..... and to another along the river front. Yep, full, apparently the Italian holiday period had just started and Ljubljana is a convenient overnight on the way to the coast.
    I was starting to eye up benches in the park, my choice compared to sleeping under a bridge but as a last resort we checked for a room in the park hotel. They had rooms and the sweet receptionist even advised that booking directly online was cheaper so we secured a hotel room for 2 nights. The 120€ a night is frighteningly expensive to me but the hostel room with bunk beds was only marginally cheaper. It was a good reminder that home exchange is literally life changing in allowing us endless travel on our budget.
    Ljubljana is a wonderful city. Not as many tourists as Prague, and it's pretty, welcoming and interesting. There are only 2 million people in Slovenia and the lovely people that we met were keen to welcome us and to explain more about their culture. There was another art spot along the river converted from a bicycle factory into small units for start-up innovations looking to get a foothold in the commercial world. Interesting to look around and chat to the entrepreneurs but way out of my interest or price range. What would you even do with a hand painted silk scarf? We perused some menus for a snack and then bought picnic items from a convenience store instead. It may be a stopover spot but the prices match Prague.
    The hotel had a bee haven on the roof and a wonderful spot to watch the thunder and lightning storm roll in. Unfortunately, it was so mesmerising that we waited too long to move and got rather stuck in the downpour. We ended up sheltering in a Chinese restaurant. I ordered boiled chilli beef expecting a red hot sauce.... instead it was a brown sauce full of szechuan pepper but it was tasty enough.
    There are 2 live music venues in the squat area. There was an American noise/psych band playing in one but tickets were 18€. We got chatting to the doorman, who was excited to tell us all about the venue. He was thrilled to learn that Joe had played in the area 20 years ago and remembered the club.... and Lada, the female bass player of 'The Bambi Molesters' who set up Joe's show. More about her in Zagreb.... that interaction gained is free entry to the club later but sadly the band had already finished. What a cool stage though. We'll definitely be back there to play.... probably with LDH, the new name for the aforementioned Bambi Molesters.
    The next day, we found a Banksy exhibition, which was fascinating and inspiring. I loved the video of the painting shredding as soon as the auction hammer fell, 'going, going, gone' indeed!! The parrellels with music are so obvious. Both are so beautiful when produced not for fame, recognition, or commercial gain, just for abandon, freedom and expression.
    Time to go to Zagreb and another home from home, home exchange.
    Weiterlesen

  • Summer is cleaning time in Zagreb, we saw lots of scaffolding!
    Handbags made out of old vinyls, genius!The new wave rock museum. So glad that we stopped there.Aleksander the owner and our new agent in Zagreb!With the wonderful LHDNot what I was expecting behind the garage door!Studio time, wow! What an honour!LHD ex Bambi Molesters signing an LP for us as a gift.

    Zagreb, all about the music!

    8.–12. Aug. 2024 in Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We arrived into Zagreb in the early evening and decided to walk to our home exchange apartment. That's the advantage of travelling so light. Or maybe a disadvantage, allowing us to have crazy ideas such as walking for over 1 hour in the 35°C heat!
    My initial impression of Zagreb on this 'march' was that it was more Eastern Block in feel than the Czech Republic or Slovenia had been. The parks were orderly rows of flowers and shrubs, with concrete statues and the buildings were more harsh. There was also incongruously the feel of mid west America. Wide roads and strip malls.
    Ivona, our home exchange host had suggested the club 'Spunk' as a live music venue. It was on our route, so we stopped in. An unlikely location on a strip with a book shop and another music bar, 'The Hard Place', but true enough it has a backline and drum kit. However, it's high season and so there is no music for a month. The phrase 'of course it's closed, it's high season' has become a much repeated catch phrase as we travel around. I love that making a buck is less important than going on holiday but it's slightly frustrating as a tourist.
    We walked past a huge stage being set up in one of the parks. Not some Croatian star but Ed Sheeran, surreal to hear him playing the next night while waiting for the very delayed bus - thanks for the disruption Ed!
    Our home exchange apartment was once again a delight. Another treasure hunt to find the keys and another sweet home. Our gift to Ivona for her hospitality was fixing her wobbly toilet seat which required watching several YouTube videos!
    The city of Zagreb was rather underwhelming when compared to the beauty of Prague, and Ljubljana, and the cool, hip vibes of Berlin and Dresden. The summer holidays emptied the city centre and the historic buildings were under wraps being cleaned. It is a good city to just walk around though. We skipped the 'Hangover Museum' and the 'Breakup Museum' but decided to check out the 'New Wave Rock Museum'. Of course it was closed. We sat just outside wondering what to do next when the owner, Aleksander, turned up and opened for us. He had a wonderful sense of humour and encyclopaedic knowledge of the underground, garage music of the 80's. The museum was small but interesting and we made a firm friend and ally in Aleksander. He is keen to book us to play in the museum in the spring. He invited us back for a drink the next night which was a delight.
    The other huge honour was spending a morning with LHD, formerly The Bambi Molesters. A legendary surf rock instrumental band. Do check them out, their music is fabulous. They invited us out to their practice in the hills. The Bolt ride took forever because of the holiday traffic but it was worth it. They welcomed us on the porch and then invited us into their practice space through the garage door. Wow! It was a full on state of the art studio. The sound was perfection in there. They played a few songs for us, then asked us to join in. So much fun. So now we have a band to tour Croatia with. They were so welcoming and very keen to collaborate. What a coincidence that our new single is surf rock style!
    So Zagreb, we will be back to rock you!!
    Weiterlesen

  • Umag Umago a go go!

    12.–15. Aug. 2024 in Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    I literally wrote to every host of available home exchanges on the Croatian coast and only had one positive reply. The lovely Angelika in Umag. She was leaving for her daughters wedding the day after we arrived so the deal was that I would clean for her to make it possible for us to stay. I hadn't realised that included preparing her other Airbnb apartment for a changeover but no matter it was worth it. Umag on the west coast wasn't the easiest coastal city to reach by public transport but a free bed is a free bed. Prices in Split and Rijeke are ridiculous in August. After a very long bus ride, we arrived at sunset. We declined a taxi from the bus station because it was too pricey at 10€, what a great decision. Our reward was a perfect first sight of the Adriatic. The colours in the sea were magical, pink, or blue, or purple or orange?
    Angelika's home is lovely. We had a terrible sofa bed but the room had an electric piano in and access to a garden full of tomatoes and basil. The advantage of offering to clean was that I had to use the washing machine in the basement.... which meant that I spotted guitar cases. Angelika was delighted to hear that we are musicians and willingly loaned Joe a guitar. It was heaven playing piano and guitar together. We also took full advantage of the glut of tomatoes. Gazpacho, tomato sandwiches for breakfast and lunch and cherry tomatoes as candy.
    The sea was just a 5 minute stroll through a pine forest onto the promenade. Yes, the sea is clear and a wonderful temperature but there is no beach to speak of just very slippery concrete or rocks. After an hour or so of floating in the sea, there's nothing else to do except to walk to another spot to do the same. We searched for an afternoon snack but of course as it's high season the stands were mostly closed!
    The evening stroll to the old town was delightful. Narrow alleyways with charming stone buildings mostly converted into over priced bars and restaurants. I didn't see the word vegan, so I concluded that it's still a mostly Croatian holiday spot. There were a couple of musicians playing, in their words 'jazz, soul, pop', I'm still not sure what that means. They were cool and groovy for sure.
    We eventually found an idyllic spot to watch the sun drop and the moon rise.
    Three nights was just perfect but then we were left with the conundrum of how to get to Serbia. Our initial thought was to take buses down the Croatian coast and through Montenegro. However, surprisingly, the bus service is minimal. We looked at so many options including ferries and hitch hiking but in the end just wanted to get away from over priced tourism.
    The solution was to backtrack to Ljubljana for a night and fly to Belgrade. Revisiting Ljubljana was refreshingly familiar.... including not finding anywhere to stay. A single bed in a damp basement cupboard and only 2 toilets for around 30 people cost 90€.... goodbye, expensive Slovenia, what have you got, Serbia?!
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  • Fascinating roofs
    Our hostel on Skadarska street full of trad. Bands and touristsThe off shift musicians chillingThe oldest graffiti where the musicians hang outThe old breweryElvis following us as usual!An empty museumWar is rather celebrated in BelgradeEvidence of the war blends in

    Boiling hot Belgrade

    16. August 2024 in Serbien ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Belgrade immediately felt different for not being in the EU. I can't put my finger on why. Perhaps it was the strange currency, the lack of public transport, fewer tourists, no vegan restaurants, an over-abundance of meat and grease dripping filo pastry. The pure, unadulterated, enthusiastic pride of Serbia was evident in every conversation. The people were all so welcoming and so desperate to share food and stories of Serbian history.... as long as it occurred after 1805 (the 1st uprising against the ottomans). The general feel reminded me of the unspoilt, trusting Portugal of 20 years ago. Hopefully, Serbia will remain unspoilt for a few more years. So many of us are seeking somewhere unspoilt by tourism. How ironic that we bring the bad smell of entitlement, comfort and wealth with us.
    Our hostel was on a cobbled, charming street in the bohemian Skadarlija district. It is known as a gathering place of the bohemian world, those who love life and enjoy it, who live art as a lifestyle. It has unfortunately been discovered by the tourists but not yet spoilt. It is full of restaurants selling Serbian food accompanied by table to table traditional musicians in black trousers and white shirts. Every band has a double bass player in it. I don't know the collective term for double bass.... but that street had a woodyard full of double basses! It was charming to see the off shift musicians lounging around on benches lower down the street outside the oldest graffiti murals that started the artistic transformation of the district.
    We were unimpressed by the chocolate box feel of the street and just wandered aimlessly around the corner. It looked like a warehouse district but we sneaked in to get a closer look at the graffiti. We had stumbled into the bottom end of what was the coolest alternative district. At least it was alternative until Saturday night when it turned into an electronic music mecca. An old brewery complex converted into venues, bars, a climbing gym, a record store and restaurants. The 2 bar staff in the alternative music venue were very disillusioned by the state of the live music scene. They didn't know when they would next have a live band nor did they know why nobody was interested anymore. Oh well, chalk that one up to as a victory for electronic music, cocktails and expensive craft beer.
    The next day, we walked to the fortress overlooking the confluence of the Danube and the Sava Rivers. Beautiful, but boy, was it hot in the park and sad to see all the weaponry on display. We walked and melted our way down to the river front and hatched a plan to get out of the sun....a visit to the Tesla museum. The 1st test was to buy a ticket for the tram. The usual way is to buy a ticket using the app which you can only download onto a Serbian mobile phone number. We didn't have any mobile data let alone a Serbian phone so we had to find the correct kiosk to buy an old school ticket..... then we had to decide where to catch the tram and in which direction without any help from Google. How quickly we've become complacent about using our phones to tell us how to do something as simple as to catch a tram! It was a joy to rely on the help of strangers, the lady driver of the incorrect tram that we tried to board was a star. She was gesturing out of the window as she drove off.
    We made it to the Tesla museum but so did many others.... no tickets available until the next day. Oh well, it was cool in the hostel garden and I had a wonderfully relaxing time making a home cooked meal. The only spice that I could find was turmeric so it was some sort of haldi meal and delicious too!
    Time to pick up a car and visit my friend in the countryside...real Serbia here we come.
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