Kororareka Point

An amazing day! If this is a sign of things to come I will be gobsmacked for the rest of the tour. We started the day early making sure we were at Paihia Wharf by 8.45 am to catch our Catamaran for an Island tour with Fullers Great Sights - a 4 hrs cruise to include the Hole-in-the-Rock on Percy Island off Cape Brett at the Bay's eastern edge. Our first stop was Russell (Kororareka) an historic seaside town on the opposite side of the Bay, it is also served by ferries from Paihia, we picked up more passengers here. Russell was known as ' The hell hole of the Pacific' when it was a magnet for fleeing convicts, whalers and drunken sailors and Charles Darwin described it as full of 'the refuse of society'. We then stopped at Roberton Island (Motuarohia) and sounded the ship's horn, this is to tell the inhabitants that we had supplies. The people are 'caretakers' of the house and Islands. Captain James Cook anchored the 'Endeavour' off this island, a pyramid Plymouth marks the spot where he came a shore. Out in the bay around this area we encountered a 'pod' of dolphins including young ones. To start with they were just playing around the boat on both sides, front and back of the boat, they stayed for quite a while. As we needed to get to 'Hole in the Rock' by a certain time , the captain started moving away slowly then gradually faster, but the dolphins loved chasing the boat and many jumped into the air as they were following - there were lots of Oohs and Aahs! Moturua Island is 1 of 2 islands that have Kiwis on them and rapidly regenerating native forest; the dominant vegetation is Manuka and Hanuka trees. We slowly took the narrow pass between Urupukapuka and Waewaetorea. Then onto 'Hole in the Rock' (Percy Island), where the Captain showed both sides of the boat the 'hole' before trying to see if he could drive through. After 3 attempts he decided the currents were too strong and pulling the boat side ways. We did go round to the other side though and on the rocks there saw New Zealand fur seals. We came back via Cape Brett and saw the lighthouse, this had been lit since 1910 until 1978 when it was automated. We landed at Otehei bay on the south side of Urupukapuka, for a 30 min break for a stroll and paddle if wanted. American author Zane Grey lived here in 1926 and loved big game fishing here - for striped Marlins - he made game fishing famous in the islands. We continued back dropping passengers first at Russell then Paihia, those who wanted to stop at a different quay could get a free ferry ticket to get back to their starting point.
We went back to the flat and had leftover ribs etc for lunch then headed out to Waitangi across an old one way bridge. Waitangi is where the Treaty grounds are, the location for the signing of the agreement between Maori Chiefs and British settlers, the founding document for the nation of New Zealand. The area contains the Treaty House ( which was the British residency) and where the Treaty of Waitangi was drawn up, the carved meeting house - Te Whare Runanga stands facing the Treaty House, symbolizing the partnership between Maori and British crown. The Flagstaff marking the spot where the Treaty was signed and the world's greatest War canoe that needs 76 paddlers. It also houses the 'Te Kongahu Museum of Waitangi. It was a very atmospheric area and the views over the Bay were stunning. Even more atmospheric was the cultural experience at the carved meeting house - A Maori welcome was given, a 'chief' volunteered for the visitors accepted the symbol to show that we came in piece and we were then welcomed into the meeting house. Inside the Maori chief gave a welcoming speech the the visitors chief had to reply - he was told that anything less than 5 mins would be deemed an insult. Our chief was in fact a visiting native American who answered in his people's language and gave a brilliant speech. The traditional greeting was given by both chiefs of touching noses and the welcome ceremony was complete. We were then shown various traditional dances, war ceremonies with songs and demonstrations. The group then stayed to allow visitors to meet with them, ask questions and take photos with them. Wow!
We took a look at Te Kongahu museum (Te Kongahu is a Ngapuhi word referring to the unborn child) and then headed back to Paihia to take the ferry to Russell for dinner at The Duke of Marlborough - great food!Read more