New Zealand
Mount Aspiring

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    • Day 34

      Jetscape

      December 4, 2013 in New Zealand

      Wanaka, Otago, New Zealand
      Wednesday, December 4, 2013

      The day dawned clear, sunny and bright and we decided it was the perfect opportunity to sample a Kiwi invention of some renown, namely the Jet Boat. Developed by Sir Bill Hamilton it is perfect for the shallow draft of many New Zealand rivers and is the vehicle of choice for R&R on the many lakes and rivers here down South. We chose Wanaka River Journeys as it was more than just a jet boat for sheer speed. James, our driver took us around Lake Wanaka ( 6th largest lake in the South Island ) and then up the Matukituki river, deep into Mt Aspiring National Park, a world heritage site. It was a fascinating journey up the braided river, with nesting gulls and oyster catchers lining its banks and all the time the great mountain peaks loom over one. The water sparkled bright turquoise, with all the glacial silt being carried away from the many glaciers that are a permanent feature of the park and at times there was scarcely 3ins of water under the boat. It was so clear you could see every pebble on the river bed, even if they did seem a blur at the speeds we were travelling. Periodically, James would draw a circle in the air, left or right, which would indicate a 360 degree spin and these became wilder as the morning drew on. Glacial Water spray was involved! After about 30 mins a helicopter landed by the river and Reg, Geraldine and I climbed aboard for a closer look at the peaks. Peter decided that he needed to be available to bury us all and remained with the boat! It was an amazing flight. Up and up we climbed, over the arretes, until the pilot very gently put us down on what seemed to me to be a very tiny ledge of snow some 7000 metres up. We were literally amongst the peaks and it was so clear and sharp we could see for miles. Mountain range after mountain range, glacier after glacier and we were standing on 20 mtrs of compacted snow, just trying to take it all in Over 10 mtrs of precipitation falls in these mountains per annum and it can take one flake of snow falling on the glacier over 10 years to appear as melt water from the terminal end of the glacier, depending on the conditions. Geraldine & I had never flown in a helicopter before and it was quite unlike my expectations. Smoother, with little impression of fast movement, hovering was the overall impression. We flew down to catch up with the jet boat that was by now at the head of the Matukituki river and we landed so gently as to be hardly aware of doing so. I'm not sure, but I thought I caught a glimpse of resignation in PL's eyes, no doubt calculating the lost life insurance!! There followed a bush walk through the native beech forest. Taller straighter and with much smaller leaves that in the UK, these giants cling to life in very shallow soils, sometimes no more the 6 ins deep. Sheep and cattle graze and are farmed by the Aspinall family who have owned at enormous station here for over 100 yrs. They are 4th generation farmers here in the valley. Hardy and self sufficient would describe their stock and themselves I guess! All around, are sites used for the filming of The Lord of the Rings and just arranging delivery of all the equipment involved must have been a logistical nightmare to say the least. The return journey was glorious and quicker and we were all soaked at the end, but then that is the name of the game. It was a fantastic trip, admittedly in perfect weather conditions and we saw things that would have been impossible in any other way.
      We were all glad of lunch on our return and decided to walk to a nearby winery for our afternoon entertainment. It took about 20 mins along the shores of the lake and has to be the most beautifully set vineyard in NZ. The wines were not half bad either. We take our 'grape escape' very seriously as you see. I will include the odd picture for you to see.
      An interesting post script, that may amuse you. We were talking to an English couple walking back and they asked G&R where they were from and when they heard the words Berry Pomeroy, it transpired that their daughter used to live in the village and they had I fact stayed at Berry Farm for their Granddaughters christening. Yet again, small world or what!
      A great day and tomorrow we move on to Franz Josef. I expect the weather to break, but then we can't complain. It has been 28 & 30 degrees the last two days. How lucky are we?!
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    • Day 35

      A Glacial Place

      December 5, 2013 in New Zealand

      Franz Josef Glacier, West Coast, New Zealand
      Thursday, December 5, 2013

      Moving day is always bitter sweet, leaving something we have come to love in such a short time and the anticipation of something new on the horizon. However, that is the name of the game on this trip so we set off towards the West Coast in bright sunshine. We followed the beautiful Lake Wanaka for some distance. The water was so clear and still, you could see the reflection of mountains and sky in the surface. Lake Hawea followed and we made our way inexorably towards the dramatic Haast Pass, which takes one over the divide and on to the West Coast. It was rainforest all the way, beautiful, but quite oppressive after 200 kms. We stopped at Bruce Bay which was stunning. Great rollers crashing on to the beach, fringed with huge phormiums and a graveyard full of driftwood scattered all along the beach. I was mesmerised. It was a flower arrangers dream. A pile of stones and small pieces of ocean bleached wood had been piled on the edge of the beach. Visitors had inscribed their names and a message on the individual pieces. It was actually quite moving to read some of them. One almost felt as if one was peering uninvited into a discarded letter.
      The road wound slowly on into the Westland National Park and the mountains rose higher all around, cloud thickened and a little rain started to fall. There is scant settlement and even with modern roads it must be an isolating life. However, you are surrounded by immense natural beauty, so plentiful, it is difficult to know where to look next, which must be a constant source of joy. We trundled through the small village serving Fox glacier, stopping briefly, but knowing we needed to press on to Franz Josef, our home for the next two nights. It is slightly larger than its Fox cousin, but similarly serves it's famous glacier that so many people come to gaze on. We checked in to the Helicopter Line office and confirmed our planned trip for tomorrow, before finding our hotel and a cup of tea, though not necessarily in that order. Supper was taken at Annie Mays, within walking distance and we sat watching the constantly changing cloudscape over the peaks. The pattern was never the same at any one minute. It came on to rain once more and the most beautiful double rainbow appeared, so vivid, it had everyone running outside exclaiming in wonder. I am so looking forward to tomorrow and will just have to hope for half decent weather. Cross your fingers for us!
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