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Ngaire Phillips
Ngaire Phillips

Ngaire Phillips

I'm an environmental scientist with a passion for exploring. Läs mer🇳🇿Hamilton
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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Ever-active Bosphorus

    Turkish delight

    20 juni 2019, Turkiet ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Being independent travellers again was a welcome change after 32 days travelling with others. Tours definitely have benefits, with the opportunity to travel with interesting others being a highlight. But having ones time organised on a daily basis is less appealing. And indeed the tour itself had in fact felt like 3 separate tours, with different guides with their own styles. We had to work hard to retain that sense of being "along the Silk Road" (as opposed to just going to interesting places).

    Istanbul is the magical city where East meets West, with the Asian and European sides clearly demarcated by the Bosphorous, a narrow, natural strait. The cultural influences of the many empires that once ruled here is especially evident in the very compact Old City, which makes seeing the sites very easy.

    After dragging our suitcases along steep and narrow cobbled streets, then up 5 flights of stairs to our AirBNB, we settled in to our home for the next 4 nights, acquainting ourselves with our hosts Sui and Ibriham and their 3 cats. The sweeping views of the Bosphorous from our top floor apartment were breathtaking, with the construction cranes in the foreground only marginally impacting on the quality of the experience.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Chor Bakr
    TombsChor Bakr tombs and gatesAbu Bakr tombShirt maker and modelWhite Hall at Sitorai PalaceSitorai Palace interiorsSitorai Palace Harem interiorsApple tossing pavillionMaking ceramics

    The tour ends but not our adventure

    18 juni 2019, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    One thing that Uzbekistan has done well is turn their traditions into thriving businesses. Carpet weaving, metal craft, ceramics, silk work and the like contribute to the economies of small towns and larger cities alike, often geared to the tourist industry. It's easy to be sceptical about the authenticity of goods sold from a city stall, which makes the experience of purchasing from someone actively engaged in producing the goods special. I had the pleasure of purchasing a lovely top from a man sitting at a sewing machine in tiny workroom within a memorial complex we visited in Chor Bakr, a small village out of Bukhara.

    The memorial complex of Chor Bakr was built over the burial place of Anu Bakr Said who died in the year 360 of the Muslim Calendar (970-971 AD). He was one of the four of Abu-Bakrs (Chor-Bakr) who were thought to be descendants of Muhammad. Because of this connection, the Bukharan aristocracy liked to be buried there. It's now become a bit of a pilgrimage site. It was quite pleasing to see something that looked to be largely unrestored (for a change).

    Next stop was the Sitorai Mohi Hosa Palace, which was the summer palace of the last Emir, Alim Khan. Built in 1911, the three-building compound incorporates elements of both Russian and traditional Bukharan architecture. Building actually started in the late 19th century and occurred over a 20 year period, which explains the differences in style. The interior rooms were quite over the top! Particularly impressive was the exterior of the White Hall and the completely separated Harem. The latter is situated some distance from the main buildings, beside a large pool and pavillion. Apparently the women would frolic in the pool and the Emir would stand on the pavilion and toss an apple to the chosen one.

    As well as being the place where the Sufi Order was founded, Gijduvan has gained fame as a centre for glazed ceramic production. This was also the final tourist site of our tour. Our trip notes indicated we'd be having a "masterclass" with ceramic artists. But that was not to be, instead being given a description of the process undertaken (which is impressive), before being shepherded into their showroom. Unfortunately not to our taste but we were treated to a glimpse of Muslim school life as another group visiting were holding a music demonstration for family and friends.

    Back in Bukhara for a free afternoon and morning, which was mostly spent in our hotel room to avoid the heat. A 4 hour train trip back to Tashkent followed by a pleasant farewell dinner. Final farewells to our companions of the last few weeks (and Les and Wendy, our companions of 32 days!). A few hours sleep then off to the airport for our flight to Istanbul for our early morning flight and the final leg of our Silk Road adventure.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Our hotel
    Uzbek footyIsmail Samani mausoleumThe ArkFormer stables, The ArkKalon mosqueKalon MinaretCarpet makingDinner on a tapchan (tea bed)

    Mosques, madrassas & minarets

    17 juni 2019, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    It was a relief to finally arrive in the pleasant city of Bukhara- until we stepped off the bus into 35 degrees! Escaping into the cool of our lovely hotel, we were even more delighted to discover fully functional plumbing in our room. After a quick shower it was off to a football match between the local team and the hot favourites from Tashkent. It felt great to be experiencing a slice of life for a short while, instead of visiting yet another tourist destination. The match was pretty one-sided (5-0 to the visitors) but still good entertainment and the indigo blue sky as the sun set was spectacular. Females over the age of 10 were pretty much non-existent, despite there being no restrictions on their attendance. We'd got used to being stared at and photographed a while back.

    At its peak, the ancient city of Bukhara boasted 250 madrassas, 200 minarets and a mosque for everyday of the year. By this stage of our trip, we'd seen our fair share of each of these, as we travelled through the predominantly Muslim countries of Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan (as well as Western China). So it wasn't surprising that monument burnout was beginning to set in. However, Bukhara still had a few surprises in store for us.

    The 10th century tomb of Ismail Samani, founder of the cultured Samani dynasty, was one such surprise. Cleverly designed using basket-weave brickwork, it reflects the status of science in society at the time, with its mathematically derived form. There's a legend that if one particular brick was removed, the entire building would collapse. So it's basically a giant Jinga game! Apparently it survived the perils of the Mongols because Ismail instructed his army to cover it with sand. When Genghis Khan arrived, he found only a large mound. Clever!

    The Ark is the heart of ancient Bukhara, around which the city has formed. Fortified, destroyed and rebuilt many times, this complex of buildings became home to the emirs (leaders). From the roadside, with the cars buzzing by, this spectacular structure seemed quite otherworldly.

    A welcome afternoon rest from the oppressive heat, followed by a visit to the Kalon Minaret and Mosque (where I managed to lose my hat). At the time it was built (1127), the minaret was probably the world's tallest building. Apparently Genghis Khan was so awestruck that it was spared from the general Mongol destruction policy. The minaret was nicknamed the "Tower of Death" in the 19th century, when criminals were tied in sacks and hurled over the side.

    Dinner turned into a repeat of at least 3 previous experiences, in which my meal failed to materialize! "We don't have ...." I'm told, once the rest of the party has finished eating. Just as well there's plenty of bread!    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Along the Silk Road
    Donkey transportAk Serai (front view)Ak Serai (rear view)Tamerlane's cryptUzbek cats know how to cope with the he heat

    Shakhrisabz

    16 juni 2019, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today we were headed for the ancient town of Bukhara. Our huge bus meant we were unable to negotiate the faster mountain pass route. Instead we prepared for a 9 hour journey along pot-holed dirt roads.

    While Tamerlane is buried at Samarkand, his birthplace is to the south near the town of Shakhrisabz, along a side branch of the Silk Road on the Oxus River. Evidence of past history is found amongst the numerous ruins, with the best known being Ak Serai or the White Palace. Built by artisan slaves, it was intended as the summer residence for Tamerlane. Known for its blue-tiled walls, golden ceilings and lush surroundings, restoration provides a glimpse of its' past glory.

    Beyond this complex, where once there was desert, now resides an accomodation and service complex. Clearly tourism is a good business to be in, in Uzbekistan!

    Several tombs can also be found here, as well as a crypt containing an empty tomb intended for Tamerlane. Two of his sons are buried in the Tomb of Jehangir, all that remains of the once spectacular Dorius Siadat, a Timurid family memorial.

    As we approached Bukhara the browned earth turned to sand, as the city is bordered by the Kyzyl Kum Desert. I wasn't looking forward to high temperatures again!    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Bibi Khanum complex
    Unrestored interiorShah-I-Zindah streetscapeBeautiful tilework

    Islamic beauty

    15 juni 2019, Uzbekistan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The Registan takes your breath away by its sheer size and expanse. However, there were 2 building complexes that really impressed me with their architectural beauty.

    Bibi Khanum Mosque was built in honour of Timurlane's chief wife, Saray Mulk Khanum. Financed from the spoils of his campaigns to Delhi (1398) and built with the help of 95 imported Indian elephants, this monumental structure was built in haste. Consequently, the walls started to crumble almost as soon as they were finished. Apparently Timur was so keen to get it built that he tossed gold coins and scraps of barbecued meat to encourage workers. It's been suggested that recent restoration work has been done in a similarly hasty fashion. Regardless, it is still very beautiful. This was also the first place we'd been to where the interior had been left unrestored- it felt somehow more authentic than anything I'd seen previously.

    The second, and even more impressive, is the Shah-I-Zindah, a visually absorbing necropolis. Basically a street lined with tombs of the rich and famous dating from 1372 to 1460, it's simply stunning. The decorations are really what sets this apart as artistically superb. Carved terracotta and majolica tilework is arranged in complex floral designs, with stylized calligraphy framing these images, all in various shades of blue.

    Samarkand certainly lived up to its reputation as a place of exotic romanticism, even in the modern times.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Start of the papermaking process
    PapermakingUleg Beg museum and sextantPegasus star map, 1473Sogdian muralsDetails of mens robesMurals showing Chinese visitorsTerracotta statues 5th - 7th centuryElongated skullInnovative solution!

    Sogdians, Afrosiab and Genghis Khan

    15 juni 2019, Uzbekistan ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Our second day in Samarkand started with a visit to a paper making business. It is thought that the secret to paper making reached Uzbekistan via some Chinese prisoners (the Chinese invented paper making). It's a painstaking process, starting with bark stripped from the mulberry tree (a versatile tree - the leaves are fed to silk worms and the fruit to humans).

    As I've previously mentioned, Tamerlane was quite the man of his time, and his descendants certainly carried on in his steed for some generations. His grandson Uleg Beg is best known for his scientific patronage and, in particular, his magnificent observatory, with which he correctly positioned more than 1000 stars. Destroyed by fanatics, part of the underground chamber was discovered by the Soviets in 1938. It shows the arc of the sextant cut into rock. It was a little bit of an anticlimax but the nearby museum provided some useful insights.

    The long history of occupation at Samakand is most evident at Afrosiab, the ancient core of the city which began as a settlement in the 6th century. Excavations have revealed 12 different occupation periods, although the actual site looks like a hilly paddock with a few grassy canals running through. The real evidence is found in the nearby museum. The highlight was definitely the wall murals from the Sogdian period, which depict scenes from the city's Silk Road heyday. Other museum exhibits explained the sequence of civilizations that occupied the area prior to it's almost complete destruction by Genghis Khan. An elongated skull was a particularly interesting curiosity!

    The remainder of our day saw us visiting the mausoleum "alley" of Shakh-I-Zinda and the Bibi-Khanym mosque - both worthy of a separate blog entry.

    We finally managed to find a very pleasant bar (Green Bear), which appeared to be located across the road from a local gambling den! A very pleasant evening, complete with local piano player, a delightful meal and a passable Uzbekistan merlot.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    All aboard!
    Tamerlane mausoleumTamerlane mausoleum interiorMausoleum ceiling detailTillya Kari MadrasahRegistan showing the 3 MadrasahInterior of Tillya Kari MadrasahBalloon rising near Timerlane's mausoleumStreet artRegistan

    Samarkand - City of Tamerlane

    14 juni 2019, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Samarkand is strategically located along the Silk Road and has been continuously occupied for at least 2700 years. Set at a trade crossroads and fed by the Zerafshan River, stories of its exotic offerings reached far and wide. Alexander the Great visited in 329 BC (when it was named Marakanda) and remarked that everything he'd heard about it was true except that it was even more beautiful than he'd imagined.

    The numerous historic sites (most of which are reconstructions and/or restorations) certainly provide a glimpse of what the city might have looked like in its heyday. The city has been destroyed and rebuilt a number of times over the course of its history, as different rulers made their mark. Much of the architecture evident now was commissioned by Amir Timur or Tamerlane the Great, who considered himself "Conquerer of the World". Seems he did a pretty good job and it's been estimated that his warring campaigns led to the death of 17 million people. He was also a great patron of the arts and was known to spare the lives of talented artisans so he could bring them to the city to improve and beautify it.

    Our first stop was in fact to the Tamerlane's Tomb, located in the Gur-I-Mur complex. He would have preferred to have been buried near his home in Shakhrisabz but Samarkand was considered more appropriate. His body lies in a crypt below a huge tombstone of jade and amongst family members and his spiritual advisor (presumably not everyone died at the same time!). The interior was truly magical - golden ceiling and walls, decorative sanscript.

    The Registan is considered one of the most dramatic architectural ensembles in Central Asia. Comprised of a central square, with 3 madrasahs (Islamic schools), the size (35m columns), colourful domes and top-to-bottom tile work make it quite stunning. Originally a market area where 6 city roads met, it was later used for military parades and public executions, while the Bolsheviks used it for political rallies, trials and veil burnings. The madrassas were built separately over a period of 300 years, with the first commissioned in the 15th century by the grandson on Tamerlane, Ulegbeck, a renowned scientist and astronomer (and leader). The Registan looks even more spectacular at night, when flood lighting creates wonderful contrasts.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Grand buildings
    Mausoleum of Yunus KhanBarak Khan MadrassaModern mosque with ceiling detailsTashkent metro detailsMetro wall murals of cosmonautsInterior of Applied MuseumEmbroidery examples in museumSilk rug detailsOpera house

    Tashkent

    13 juni 2019, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The capital of Uzbekistan, Tashkent is home to more than 2 million people and is the largest city in Central Asia. The overwhelming impression it gives is of financial wealth. Grand buildings line leafy streets and modern cars (especially Chevrolets manufactured in Andijan) are everywhere. At more than 2200 years old, it was originally a caravan town that grew up at the border of the settled and nomadic worlds. The modern face was created by the Soviets after a powerful earthquake severely damaged the city in 1966.

    First stop on our city tour was the beautiful 16th century mausoleum of Yunus Khan, the grandfather of the Mughal Emporer Babur (whose memorial we'd seen in Andijan). Nearby, the Khast-Imam Complex includes a number of madrassas and mosques. It's been the spiritual heart of the city for centuries. At one end is the stunning Barak Khan Madrassa, with its twin minarets. Once a place for religious learning, it's now filled with craftspeople peddling their wares. It is still used for religious purposes on occasion, and the Mufti of Tashkent (the country's top Islam cleric) is based here. Group member Caroline scored an excellent price on a silk wall hanging thanks to some skillful negotiating by our guide.

    Also in this complex is the world's oldest Koran, which dates from 655 and is housed within the Muyie Mubareck Library Museum. Complete with blood stains from the caliph who was reading it at the time and was murdered, it was a surprisingly large book. The murder apparently fueled the split between the Sunni and Shia branches of Islam. Equally impressive were the copies of the Koran in a multitude of languages- even Braille.

    A trip on the metro to visit the Chorsu market added a bit of fun, especially as many of the train stations are decorated in Soviet style. Not as impressive as what we'd seen in St Petersburg but still worth a look.

    A late afternoon visit to the Museum of Applied Art proved to be a real highlight, with beautifully presented examples of different craft work that characterize the Uzbek people, including embroidery (replete with gold), carpet ,weaving, wood feet work and metal work. The whole museum in an exquisite house of ghanch (carved and painted plaster). Built in the 1930s at the height of the Soviet period, it's a real masterpiece (though I wouldn't want to actually live with all that colour!).

    Although this is a Muslim country, alcohol is available everywhere, but they just don't seem to make the most of their warm evenings with pleasant outdoor bars! A search for a glass of wine failed but we happened upon the beautiful Tashkent Opera House.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Kyrgyzstan birthday present
    Uzbekistan moneyBorder crossingBabur ParkAndijan marketRefreshing drinks Andijan marketStamps used to make bread decorationsWash basins made at marketAndijan marketBirthday boy

    Farewell Kyrgyzstan

    12 juni 2019, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Today was the day we would cross the Kyrgyzstan border into Uzbekistan. It also happened to be Richard's birthday. In her usual thoughtful manner, Nastacia gave Richard a little piece of Kyrgyzstan - 2 embroidered cloths, each framed and packed snugly in an equally beautiful Intrepid Kyrgyzstan bag. With the formalities completed we took the short journey to the border, stopping first to change currencies. Our 2000 Kyrgyzstan som bought us 244,000 Uzbekistan som - crazy numbers and equivalent to about $44 NZ. But that can buy you a lot in both countries.

    With big hugs and promises to see her in New Zealand when she started her own travel adventures, we farewelled Nastacia. It was surprisingly easy to cross both the Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan borders. Whenever we appeared in a queue we were beckoned to come forward by both the border guard and non-Western tourists. It seemed unfair to us, as clearly many had been waiting some time. But it seemed like a common courtesy we couldn't avoid.

    As we stepped across the final doorway into the bright sun, the contrast between the 2 countries was immediately evident. As our guide book put it, "landscapes are not Uzbekistan's strong point". To be fair, it was not much different from Osh, but a world away from the fabulous mountains and lush pastures we'd experienced over the last week or so.

    Once we'd located our guide, Khursid, we boarded our excessively large bus. First stop was a local park in the city of Andijan. The park is a memorial to Babur, who was the founder and first Emperor of the Mughal dynasty in India, as well as a poet and writer (and who was born in Andijan). The buildings were certainly very striking, with ornate blue and green tiling. The park was packed with visitors and we created quite a stir, especially our younger group members who were much in demand to be photographed. We hung around for quite some time without any real sense of purpose, before wandering through a nearby amusement park, where Les and I both got accosted by a giant bear. Local women dancing provided some light relief.

    Finally departing we headed for the infinitely more interesting local market. Buzzing with activity and super generous folk, Richard and I were stopped by a pair of 60-something local women. Turns out they were retired English teachers. A delightful pair who were keen to chat, though I found the mouthful of gold teeth that seemed a mark of wealth here a bit daunting. Futher wanderings amongst the rows of fruit, vegetables, spices, bread, meat and all manner of other paraphernalia. Offered wonderful melon to sample, followed by a freebie! Time to find a knife to replace Richard's Leatherman taken at a Chinese railway station.

    Another stop for lunch and then a long wait at the train station. Seems like we'd basically been filling in time. Once aboard, we settled in to our 5 hour trip, although a blasting TV made things a challenge. My recently acquired noise cancelling headphones helped. To our surprise our guide had purchased a birthday cake for Richard and we enjoyed a delicious treat, washed down with local beer (which was actually not a bad combination).

    Arriving at our hotel in Tashkent at 9.30pm, we were ready for bed (we'd lost an hour between countries). From our brief views of the city it was clear Uzbekistan has a lot more monetary wealth than Kyrgyzstan. I certainly felt like we'd well and truly farewelled Kyrgyzstan.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Beautiful Kyrgyz women
    Tash-Komur damUzbek-style chaikhanaUzgen minaretUzgen mausoleumsBeautiful brickworkFun on Suleiman-Too mountainLocal crafts

    Uzgen and Osh

    10 juni 2019, Kirgizistan ⋅ 🌫 16 °C

    Another big travel day. "Think positive " Nastacia tells us "and we will make good time and have good weather". And so we did, arriving at the town of Uzgen just after lunch. An ancient trading town and handicrafts centre on the Silk Road, its main attraction is a rebuilt 11th century minaret and a trio of ornately carved mausoleums from the 11th to 13th century. The detailed brickwork was certainly very impressive.

    Osh, a city of around 200,000, is located a mere 5 km from the border with Uzbekistan, in the southern part of Kyrgyzstan. Once part of the much larger area of Turkistan, the 2 countries were created on the basis of ethnic divisions during the Soviet era ( 1917-1991). Osh has a large Uzbek population and thus is much more like its neighbour than it's more northern Kyrgyz communities. It has a more clearly Islamic identity and ethnic tensions have resulted in violent clashes in recent times.

    It was a relief to finally arrive at our hotel. We even treated ourselves to laundry service! We were surprised to be taken to an Italian restaurant for dinner, but it was actually a treat to have pizza and wine. On top of that, Nastacia had organized a surprise birthday cake for group member Lauren. This was the second birthday of the Kyrgyzstan tour, with Vitaly having his birthday only a few days before.

    Next morning we explored the somewhat old-fashioned but nonetheless interesting Historical Museum. Nastacia provided valuable insight into the prehistory and more recent history of Kyrgyzstan, as well as some of the cultural practices.

    Osh nestles at the base of Suleiman-Too Sacred Mountain, the only World Heritage Site in Kyrgyzstan. An imposing rock worthy of a climb, even on a hot day. For centuries Silk Road travellers have sought out the mountains caves and petroglyphs in the belief they would be blessed with longevity (amongst other things). Apparently it ranks amongst Central Asians as Islams third holiest shrine. A museum set within one of the caves presents a commentary on archaeological finds from the area and has wacky lights that are meant to look like stalactites.

    Along the path to the lookout we came across women and children sliding down a slightly inclined rock. Said rock is supposed to help a) women who want to become pregnant and b) anyone with a sore back. One woman must have been very keen to become pregnant as she must have repeated her slide a dozen or so times!

    A quick wander through the local bazaar and an amazing theme park and it was time for our final Kyrgyzstan dinner. I think we were pretty unanimous that Nastacia and Vitaly had given us a fabulous experience in Kyrgyzstan and would be sorely missed.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Interesting bridge repairs/paperback trees
    Memorial to a big manWildflowers in the Suusumyr ValleyToktogul ReservoirAla-Bel passCheese ball sellerFriendly KyrgyzAnother Manas statueInteresting geology

    Suusumyr Valley

    9 juni 2019, Kirgizistan ⋅ 🌫 15 °C

    We had prepared ourselves for another long day in the bus, as we progressed towards the Uzbekistan border crossing just out of Osh. While Kyrgyzstan is not a big country (around 200,000 sq km compared with 268,000 sq km for New Zealand), the combination of mostly poor roads, wandering livestock and inclement weather means that travel can be quite slow. But there is much to observe and photo and toilet stops offer diversion. Travel by cycle or motorbike definitely has definite appeal as an alternative.

    Shortly after our departure from Kyzyl Oi we came upon an unusual yurt which turned out to be a memorial to a previous village leader, who'd been killed during the Stalin era (as did 100s of 1000s more). Apparently this fellow was around 7 foot tall, became the village leader at 20 and was very strong. One story goes that when his horse became lame, he threw the animal across his shoulders and carried it home! The yurt was built in his memory. Although our guide Nastacia is only 23, the devastation to her country from the Stalin era is clearly still raw. The loss of life was even greater from World War 2.

    One of the major exports from Kyrgyzstan is water - either in its raw form or as electricity from a number of large hydroelectric reservoirs. The breakup of the Soviet Union and resultant independence of the "stans" meant Kyrgyzstan now sells water to Uzbekistan, even though they share the same river!

    Suusamyr Valley lies at 2,000-2,500 meters above the sea level and is part of the Tian-Shan mountains that we'd been following since Western China. The highest point in this range is found in Kyrgyzstan (Jengish Chokusu, 7439m, near the Chines border), though our highest point today would be just under 3200m. The Suusamyr River flows through the area, with numerous tributaries formed largely from snow melt. It appeared that a large wetland area formed a central part of the valley, though the word wetland proved a bit of a challenge to our guide (her English vocabulary was excellent). The valley is predominantly used as alpine summer pastures, with colourful herbs and wild flowers carpeting the valley floor. Once again we were treated to the sight of yurts, caravans and livestock grazing in the lush pastures. An assortment of roadside stalls lined the road, all selling the dried cheese balls that we'd learned to avoid (they were definitely an acquired taste!).

    Kyrgyz people are, for the most part, very friendly and our stop to purchase dried cheese balls turned into a photo session with the family. We were even invited into their yurt.

    As we neared our destination for the evening, we came across yet another statue of Manas, the beloved leader and focus of the Kyrgyz epic. After some wonderful guest house and home stay experiences, it felt a bit flat to be spending a night in a rather ordinary hotel. A walk along the shoreline revealed not only interesting rocks, but sadly, a diversity of plastic items. In fact, we could see plastic bottles tied together to form markers for fish farms. Innovative use of plastic but not a great long term solution.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Making the most of the snow
    Muslim cemeteryMaking boorsokKamachi demonstrationKyzyl Oi scenery

    Kyzyl Oi

    8 juni 2019, Kirgizistan ⋅ 🌫 14 °C

    I was reluctant to leave the beautiful Son Kol and indeed the snow had complicated our departure a little. But leave we must. Vitaly, our fabulous driver, negotiated the challenging conditions with great skill and professionalism. A brief stop at the top for snow games and, before we knew it, we were back in Kochkor and setting a path for our next destination- Kyzyl Oi.

    We'd been fortunate during our time in Kyrgyzstan to stay in guest houses and home stays that are part of the Community Based Tourism (CBT) network. Introduced in 2003 with Swiss assistance, it provides more remote communities with the opportunity to improve living conditions through the development of small-scale ecotourism opportunities. This means we get to stay in local houses, eat local food and get the opportunity to experience first hand some of the amazing skills of the local people.

    With a population of just 800, Kyzyl Oi's main attraction is its setting. Squeezed between mountains and with the powerful Kekemeren River running beside it, this is definitely a place for contemplation and reflection (it would make for great whitewater rafting and kayaking too!). It was my favorite town of the entire Kyrgyzstan tour.

    Our guest house had only opened the night before, and our generous hosts provided a demonstration of the art of making boorsok, the tiny fried bread pillows we'd been enjoying since our arrival in Kyrgyzstan. Fresh is definitely best and these simple yet delicious offerings, with lashings of butter and/or jam, filled the gap till dinner.

    A local kamachi maker had offered us the opportunity to see them being made first hand. We'd seen these short hand whips being used during the horse games. As with the shyrdac demonstration, the time and skill involved in producing an individual piece was not reflected in the asking price. From purchasing and preparing the wild goat skin, to trimming and detailing the final work, each step requires knowledge and skill.

    An early rise gave me the opportunity to spend only the second hour without Richard in more than 3 weeks away! A great opportunity to take in the scenery and the locals.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Kochkor houses
    Our ascent to the snowFire lighter

    Son-Kol

    7 juni 2019, Kirgizistan ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    The rain from the previous evening had dissolved into a sunny morning and with that, our trek to the beautiful Sun-Kol lake was confirmed. At 3013m altitude, the potential risks from snow and ice on the long windy road are real. One of the largest lakes in Kyrgyzstan, this remote location is also the go-to place for herders bringing their flocks to graze on the lush pastures between June and August.

    After stocking up on fresh lepyoshka (a wonderful tandori-baked bread), we set out on our long journey into the mountains. As we began our ascent, the snow line edged closer and before we knew it, we were right amongst it. So glad we'd packed those winter woolies! It was also hard to believe we'd been in 35 degrees only a week before!

    As we began our descent to the lake, the valley opened out, with yurts scattered across the grassy steppe. Horses, sheep, goats and donkeys grazed and frolicked happily in the cool sunshine.

    Finally arriving at our yurt camp we spent time settling in to our accommodation, before a slightly wet lunch in a somewhat leaky yurt. As expected, the unpredictability of mountain weather meant we were treated to stunning clear skies and sunshine, interspersed with dark clouds and thunderstorms.

    The yurts proved to be highly civilised - we even had proper beds and enough bedding for us to snuggle under as the temperature dipped to zero (or lower).

    An invigorating walk to the site of several petroglyphs (rock drawings) also provided sweeping views of the lake and surrounding mountains. Snow melt no doubt generates significant flow along gravelly streams but the site of an aluminum boat part way up a dry stream bed still seemed a bit odd!

    It's hard to imagine how this experience could have been more perfect, but next morning's snow really was the icing on the cake (literally). It didn't deter Richard from his morning shave however! This was definitely a highlight of our Kyrgyzstan visit.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    HorsemenBurana towerStone totemsTypical guest house lunchInteresting toilet signs

    Horsing around

    6 juni 2019, Kirgizistan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Getting anywhere in Kyrgyzstan takes time. While the main "highway" is in reasonably good condition, many of the roads are pot-holed, narrow, unsealed, frequented by slow drivers or large trucks, slippery from rain or snow - or all of the above.

    We farewelled the hotel moggie and canine and headed out with the intention of firstly visiting the 11th century Burana tower. However a change of plan to meet our schedule saw us arrive at a roadside field decked out with viewing platform. We were soon treated to a demonstration of 4 horse-based games that are part of a suite of sports played at the Nomad Games, a biennial event that attracts sports folk from around the world.

    The highly skilled horsemen introduced us to:
    1) tiyin-enish - where the rider tries to pick up tiny bags of coins from the ground while riding at full gallop;
    2) odarysh - where 2 riders on horses try to wrestle each other off their horses;
    3) koko buru (or buzkashi) - a game with 2 teams of 5 or 6 in which a headless dead male goat is snatched from the ground, with the rider then racing to a circular pit, hurling the goat in to score a goal, all the while trying to fend off opposition defenders who surround the riders horse;
    4) horse races - at full gallop.

    The skills of the horsemen were most impressive and even the goat-polo was enthralling (once you got over the squeamishness of the dead goat tossing). Apparently after the game the goat is cooked and is considered the best of meals!

    The horses are certainly put through their paces and were probably appreciative of the sedate pace they kept as we enjoyed a short ride. The horsemen were buzzing and any exchange of words was unnecessary to see the enjoyment they got from these activities.

    Burana Tower was of some interest, the stone totems even more so, but the rain dampened our enthusiasm for anything but lunch. By now we'd got used to the guest house meals - tables piled high with bread, jam and sweets. Salad, soup and a meat and vege dish - more than a usual Kyrgyz lunch or dinner and a bit too much for us also. But tasty and made with aroha.

    The remainder of the day was spent travelling to our overnight destination of Kochkor, with the odd photo stop along the way. Another guest house, another meal.

    Despite the late hour we agreed to a demonstration at the Women's Felt Co-op of the art of making shyrdak - the felted wool mats that are a trademark of Kyrgyz handicraft. Used in particular in the insulating of yurts, the process is time-consuming and the outputs beautiful. We couldn't resist.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Bishkek architecture
    Tourist policeVictory Square and war memorialManaschi (storyteller)Beautiful gardensStone sculpturesNew mosqueMarkets

    Bishkek

    5 juni 2019, Kirgizistan ⋅ 🌫 23 °C

    Bishkek is the capital of Kyrgyzstan. With a population of more than 1 million, it felt much smaller. This may have been due to our visit coinciding with Ramadan. The tree-lined streets, beautiful gardens, grand buildings and absence of high rises added to its overall charm. Bishkek's history is quite recent and indeed it only took on its current name after independence in 1991.

    We started the day with an exploration of the city, focusing on the 4 main squares. Each has it's own story and our guide provided an excellent commentary as we progressed our tour. First stop was Manas Square. Kyrgyz love their stories and perhaps the most famous of all is the Epic of Manas, a traditional poem of more than 500,000 lines, transmitted orally for hundreds of years. The text is key to Kyrgyz national identity, as it describes the unification of 7 tribes into a single people. There are quite a few versions and there is also no clear evidence this Manas fellow was real, but it makes for good story telling.

    As Nastacia was recounting this story, a uniformed man and 2 others in plain clothes approached us. Turns out they were tourist police- not to check up on us but to help us! Very friendly fellows and quite taken by our 2 younger females. Stories of bride-kidnapping came to mind!

    The remainder of the tour covered the Ala-Too square, with its change of guard; the Old Sqaure, with its beautiful stone sculptures and the Victory Square- the most modern. A yurt-inspired monument dominates the square, a female figure represents home and an eternal flame burns. The story of their efforts in World War 2 were told through this striking collection of works.

    Lunch at a local restaurant provided some respite from the heat, especially the spiced cherry lemonade- so good I ordered a second.

    A brief visit to the recently opened mosque (largest in Central Asia) provided another special experience. Beautifully decorated inside and out, the complex of white minarets and domes created a stunning picture.

    An equally brief visit to the local markets after a failed attempt at visiting the Fine arts museum and it was time for a rest before dinner. The rain that had threatened earlier bucketed down as we headed back to our hotel after dinner. A warning of days to come.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär

    On the road to Bishkek

    4 juni 2019, Kirgizistan ⋅ 🌫 15 °C

    Waking up to a cool morning, with the birds chirping and the river roaring, was pure bliss. After a tasty breakfast (and rather unusual music) we began the second day of travel that would lead us to Bishkek and the start of the Kyrgyzstan leg of our Silk Road trip.

    As we descended from the mountains, the valleys widened and the grasslands gradually replaced the steeper terrain, though the mountains continued their watch from afar. Yurts, caravans and food stalls dotted the landscape. Priority was clearly with horsemen and their stock, slowing passage and entertaining wide-eyed tourists. Tiny colourful mosques heralded the presence of a village or at least a gathering of sufficient numbers to justify the cost. Highly decorated Muslim cemeteries contrasted with the stark unnamed tombs we'd seen in Kashgar.

    "Would you like to stop for coffee?" Nastacia asked, much to our delight. A nearby petrol station offered half decent coffee and a shelf of vodka (if we were so inclined).

    Lunch was an interesting affair. We'd stopped at a hotel/restaurant/theme park, complete with a lake, old cars, sculptures made from car parts and tyres and sneaky white swans. The menu included horse meat, usually a speciality dish but clearly this place was targeted at the tourists.

    Finally arriving in Bishkek around 5 we were pleased to escape the confines of the bus. Meeting our group of 12 an hour later, the difference with our China tour group was evident, though not clearly definable. We were excited to take our next steps along the Silk Road.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Torugart Pass scenery
    Village in no-mans zoneAbout to escape!Tash RabatStunning Kyrgyzstan sceneryMore Kyrgyzstan sceneryNaryn

    Escape to Kyrgyzstan

    3 juni 2019, Kirgizistan ⋅ 🌫 3 °C

    After saying our goodbyes, Richard and I, and Wendy and Les from Perth, boarded our oversized bus for the long trip across the border, accompanied by our escort Kazim. Kashgar soon disappeared and before long we'd arrived at the first of 6 (yes 6!) security checks we'd need to negotiate before the border. Generally these were straightforward, although invariably there was some waiting until whichever officials decided to open the door/gate and/or issue appropriate paperwork and/or check our passports/scan our bags. It was most definitely a lesson in patience.

    Immigration proved most interesting. There were no other "customers " when we arrived but progress was slow as it seemed like they'd just opened. In addition to bags being scanned, our phones, cameras and iPads were scrutinized for dodgy photos, our guide books were skimmed and Richard's phone activity was accessed via an app they downloaded. We'd heard stories from other tourists of books being confiscated because they didn't show Taiwan as being part of China, so we were sort of prepared, but it was still a relief to finally reach passport control.

    Finally getting our passports stamped and stepping into "no man's land", we were subsequently ordered back to immigration about 30 minutes later, as one of our passports hadn't scanned properly. So much for fancy technology !

    Other than acting as delivery bus for a load of goods (and a border guard) bound for a security checkpoint, it was smooth sailing to the border gate. Travelling through the stunning Torugart Pass to reach our exit point, the winter woolies we'd packed once again proved their worth. Unfortunately our delayed arrived meant the guard that had the key to the gate was on lunch!

    It was oddly liberating to finally walk through the gate and meet our guide Nastacia and driver Vitali. A couple more security checks with some very friendly Russian-speaking guards and we were on our way (after another recall for more paperwork).

    The scenery was stunning - towering snow-capped mountains, bubbling streams and even a herd of yaks. It was breathtaking and reminded us of our own beautiful country (except for the yaks of course). First stop was Tash Rabat, a 15th century stone caravanserai hidden in a side valley off the main road at an elevation of 3200m. Restored in the 1980s, the stone interior includes a mix of larger rooms and numerous smaller rooms. which presumably served as accommodation. Apparently there is still some debate about what the function of Tash Rabat.

    Athough we'd had lunch on the bus trip, we welcomed a second late lunch in a nearby yurt (out of the cold). It was a delight to have a sandwich after weeks of noodles, rice and chilli! And not a plastic bag in sight, with lunchboxes proving just as effective. Before long we were back on the road, heading towards Naryn, our destination for the night. The sunshine and rain played with colours and shapes, providing us with a spectacular introduction to this beautiful country.

    Naryn proved to be a delightful town of friendly locals set amongst majestic mountains, with a mighty river running though it and a statue of a deer standing guard. It was a relief to be away from the constant noise, as well as the dust and the smells of the big city.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Birthday celebration Chinese style
    Face mask labelsMotorcycle coversPiled high auto-rickshawPlastic is everywhere

    Farewell my Concubine

    3 juni 2019, Kina ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    As we left China behind us we made a list of the things that we thought had flavoured our experience of China, grouped into the serious stuff and the not-so-serious stuff. Overall, an amazing place on so many levels.

    The serious stuff
    1. It's a big country with big plans to accommodate its burgeoning population. We saw numerous large scale roading and infrastructure developments everywhere (and anywhere). Watch out America!
    2. Well managed tourist attractions, although perhaps a bit too managed!
    3. Constant noise - even in the middle of nowhere.
    4. Friendly and obliging people (for the most part).
    5. Police in riot gear and metal detectors in shops as a normal part of life (at least in the west).
    6. "Food is heaven" and the "starvation mentality"(eat as much as you can, while you can).
    7. Well-used public exercise facilities and a yet a constant stream of cigarette smoke as you wander down the street.
    8. Beautiful and well-thought out parks and gardens.
    9. Plastic - it's everywhere and there is certainly no obvious interest in reducing it.
    10. Poor planning and the encroachment of urban areas on farm land (displacement of people).

    The fun stuff
    1. Instant toileting solutions for babies and toddlers- pants slit front and back (saves on nappies)
    2. Bring on the bling. They don't do things by halves.
    3. Dodgy plumbing, hard beds.
    4. Humungous floral artworks.
    5. Crocheted, woven and lacy motorbike covers.
    6. Face mask labels.
    7. Piled high auto-rickshaws.

    And the consistently funniest....English translations of Chinese instructions.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Mao statue
    Aba Khoja mausoleumAba Khoja- tilesAba KhojaJuma mosquePillar carvingsPillar carvingsOld city streets

    Islamic influences

    1 juni 2019, Kina ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    A large statue of Chairman Mao dominates Kashgar's physical city centre. However, it would seem that the Ida Kah Mosque provides it's spiritual centre. One of the largest mosques in China, it was probably built in 1738 but apparently stands on the site of a smaller, 15th century mosque. With a definite Central Asian, rather than Chinese, architectural style, the mosque was badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution. Our visit was a reminder to me of the tragedy in Christchurch. The denigration of such a tranquil and contemplative place belies belief.

    According to our guide book, Islam arrived in China around the 9th century, about 200 years after Arab sailors landed in southern China. There are now more than 13 million Muslims in China, concentrated in the Xinjiang province in north western China (including Uighur, Kazakhs, Kyrgyz, Tajiks, Tatars and Uzbeks), as well as Chinese speaking Hui, who are scattered around the country. Islam became dominant in the Xinjiang region by the 15th century and Kashgar became an important Islamic centre.

    It was here that we also learnt from our guide that the entrance price for tourist attractions in China generally reflects the age of said attraction (price increases with age)!

    The Aba Khoja Mausoleum is another must-see on the Kashgar tourist trail. Considered one of the best examples of Islamic architecture in China, the mausoleum is the burial place of the family of Aba Khoja, a celebrated Islamic missionary. Built in the 17th century it retains much of its original tiling. Exquisite colours - blue, green, orange - adorn the exterior. Inside, blue-glazed tiles decorate the cradle-shaped tombs of family members. Tiny tombs tell sad stories of young ones lost.

    The mausoleum is also known as Xiangfei's Tomb. Xiangfei (or Ikparhan as she was known) was a descendant of Aba Khoja and had been forced to become the concubine of the Chinese Emperor. Depending on which story you believe, she refused to submit to the dastardly fellow and was either murdered or committed suicide. Or she may have lived to old age. Regardless, the story goes that after she died she continued to smell as sweetly fragrant as she did when alive, and so became known as the Fragrant Concubine. Two coffins were used to transport her from Bejing to her home in Kashgar, with one being constantly filled with fresh roses to maintain her perfumed state. Apparently it took 3 years for the journey. I feel sorry for the poor fellows charged with refreshing the roses around her rotting body!

    A nearby Friday (or Juma) mosque offered more insight into the Muslim world. Individually carved pillars detailed beautiful floral emblems and are considered amongst the finest examples of Uighur wood culture.

    Kashgar is a city of old and new and we spent time exploring the older parts of town that had undergone restoration to enhance their old world charm. A short distance from the main street and you entered a world of children playing in shared courtyards, old men and women sharing stories perched on tiny chairs, colorful doorways and ornate detailing. A wonderful contrast to the constant noise, the dusty air and the human shuffle.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Cooking at the livestock market
    Scooter trailer with fat tailed sheepHuge cow attracted a lot of attentionBig Horn sheep, Fat tailed sheep and cute goatsGorgeous donkeysDeals being madeHappy donkey!Bazaar coloursChinese medicinal ingredients, including dried lizard!

    Kashgar markets

    1 juni 2019, Kina ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    As the meeting point of the northern and southern Silk Roads and the gateway to the west, Kashgar was once a place of great significance. Established as a Chinese garrison in AD 78, the city didn't become part of the Chinese empire until the 18th century. Entering this city felt very much like entering a new country and our poor Chinese group leader William struggled at times to communicate with the locals!

    Our prime reason for visiting Kashgar was to visit the bazaar and the now separately located livestock market.

    Packed with Uighur men (and the occasional woman), the livestock market buzzes with the sounds of humans and animals alike. Fat-tailed sheep, super cute goats, donkeys, horses and cattle compete for the attention of would-be buyers. You didn't need to understand the language to see when the relative merits of an animal (or herd) were being discussed or when deals were being made. A handshake, a quick smile - all done! Animals are transported on anything from serious cattle trucks to motor scooters and even the odd donkey cart. And of course as largely a food animal market, there are plenty of opportunities to sample the potential goods!

    In contrast, the bazaar is the place to buy just about anything else. From stockings to large pots to medicinal herbs to brocade curtains, this is where the locals shop. Mind you, other than watermelon to quench our thirst in the sweltering heat, we resisted the temptation to add to our souvenir collection, preferring instead to pace our purchasing across the 3 additional countries on our schedule.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Baked eggs
    Flaming Mountains pathway to the topBezeklik cavesBezeklik cavesMusician at cavesImin Ta and mosqueBeautiful brickworkCreature against Evil (642-792 AD)Fabric retrieved from ancient tombsTypical grand train station in the middle of nowhere

    Flamin' heck!

    30 maj 2019, Kina ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    With temperatures in the mid-30s it seemed crazy to be heading to the rather ominous-sounding Flaming Mountains, also home to the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha caves - another Buddhist monastery carved into the mountainside.

    Famous as a place where eggs can be baked in the sand, the Flaming Mountains proved to be spectacular but more for their size than their colour (or perhaps we'd been spoilt by the Rainbow Mountains?). An impossibly steep pathway reached to the mountain top, while the way down appeared to be facilitated by way of a slide - clever thinking!

    The Bezelklik caves, once decorated lavishly in much the same way as the more extensive Mogao Caves, had suffered at the hands of European and Japanese explorers, with statues and entire frescoes having been removed to far-away museums. As with all of the Buddhist monasteries we'd visited, it proved to be a place of tranquility and contemplation, even with a horde of Chinese tourists waving flags and sporting matching white outfits with orange caps!

     A 20 minute walk to visit Imin Ta turned into an hour-long slog in the uncomfortable heat. But it did give us a bit more of a look at the Muslim section of town. Constructed in 1778, the beautifully decorated minaret rises like a chimney beside the mosque. Clever brickwork creates a complex pattern that contrasts with the plainer mosque. Solemn cradle-like unmarked tombs formed rows in an adjacent cemetery.

    A quick trip to the impressive museum, complete with a rather gruesome but nonetheless fascinating collection of mummies excavated during highway construction, then it was back to the station for our final overnight train to Kashgar.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Multilingual signage
    One of the many police stationsDistinctly non-Chinese architectureJiaohe city remainsJiaohe cityJiaohe cityGrape drying room above houseLocal dancersChinese version of a yard glass!

    Turpan

    29 maj 2019, Kina ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The oasis city of Turpan is located in the region of Xinjiang. Sharing borders with 8 countries, the region is primarily desert and grassland, fringed by some of the largest mountains in the world. Oasis towns are scattered along the Silk Road that skirts the northern and southern edges of the Taklamakan Desert.

    The predominance of "minority" ethnic groups (and especially the Uighur people) resulted, in 1955, in the declaration of the region as the Uigher Autonomous Region. The 15 police stations we observed on the 30 minute journey from the train station to our hotel reminded us, however, that we were still very much in China. Indeed it was rather disturbing to see police walking around the streets in full riot gear, as if this was a normal part of life.

    Turpan itself lies in the Turpan depression - one of the lowest points on earth. This was really the first place where we'd seen the influence of the Silk Road on ethnic diversity, with street and shop signs written in both Chinese and Arabic. The local people, their faces, their food, the architecture - all reflected the long history of the Uighur in this region. And of course there was plenty of lamb (and no pork)!

    The Jiaohe city ruins lie a short distance from the city centre. Founded as an administrative centre and garrison town by the Chinese in the 2nd century BC, it came under the influence of the Uighur people in the 6th century. While mostly comprised of ruins, it is still possible to appreciate the complexity and especially the building methods used to create this impressive place. Located on a steep plateau, many of the structures were created by digging down into the rock (rather than building on top) - a mammoth task! At its peak it supported about 700 households, mainly Buddhist Uighurs.

    Turpan is famous for its grape growing. Grape vines are everywhere, as is a great variety of fruit and vegetables. Grapes are dried in specially designed rooms, often located above houses. The area is truly an oasis and a complex aqueduct and irrigation system (known as a karez) supplies much-needed water to support the extensive agriculture we observed. There was some debate about the origin of the system, and perhaps this is a good example of the success of the Silk Road.

    The influence of the Turkic culture was also evident at our lunch at a local winery, where we were entertained with dancers in fabulous costumes. How they managed these energetic activities in 30+ degrees escaped us! Luckily there was plenty of local beer for us to quench our thirst.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Dry river bed with caves in the background
    External paintings MogaoExternal paintings MogaoPart of the Mogao cavesEntrance for giant sitting BuddhaMingsha ShanCrescent Moon LakeScene from Encore Dunhuang

    Mogao Caves and the Gobi Desert

    28 maj 2019, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The main purpose of our visit to Dunhuang was to view the rather impressive Mogao caves. Dug into cliffs that rise out of the otherwise flat and featureless desert landscape, the caves reveal Buddhist paintings dating as far back as the 4th century. For more than 700 years Buddhist monks from far and wide excavated the hard rock and painted exquisite testaments to their faith. More than 2000 painted stucco figures and around 45,000 square meters of murals remain.

    We were unable to photograph any of the interiors but a few external images also remained. Of more than 600 caves that survive, about 20 are open to the public. Of the 8 we were shown, what struck us most was how vivid the colours remained after such a long time. They were truly beautiful. There were apparently also 1000s of manuscripts but many of these were taken by 19th/20th century explorers and reside in foreign museums.

    In addition to the cave paintings there are also two more humungous Buddha, one reclining and the other sitting. The external structure to the cave entrance gives an idea of the size of the sitting Buddha (around 35m).

    Of course no visit to the desert is complete without a camel ride! Only a short distance from town the sand mountain Mingsha Shan rises impressively. Camel riding in orange sand boots is a must, as is viewing the spectacular Crescent Moon Lake.

    We happened upon a fabulous theatrical production set in an equally impressive underground theatre. Entirely in Chinese, our guide thought we were a bit crazy, but it proved to be one of the highlights of our trip. Loosely based on the story of the loss of the Buddhist manuscripts from the Mogao Caves, the sounds, sights and sheer creativity of this production blew us away.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Richard braving the stepping stonedMassage and exercise chairWhite Horse PagodaLocal dancercise classAn Aspara - symbol of the cityHand wallDragon boats

    Dunhuang

    27 maj 2019, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After a long drive we arrived in the rather pleasant city of Dunhuang. With a population of only 200,000 it's virtually a village by Chinese standards. An oasis town set amidst the stark Gobi Desert, it once served as the last stop on the Silk Road before the leap into the unknown. After settling in to our hotel we headed out, relishing the rare opportunity for independent exploration.

    We'd observed outdoor exercise parks elsewhere on our journey and Dunhuang was no exception. Indeed, it is very common to see adults and children alike exercising in these communal settings at any time of the day.

    An impressive "river" runs through the city, offering mid-river picnic spots, a fantastic fountain display, dragon boating and more. We really liked this city!

    Our destination was the White Horse Pagoda (or Baima Ta), set within a very modest Buddhist temple located in a rather down-trodden (but soon to be upgraded) part of town. The pagoda was built in memory of a horse belonging to a Buddhist monk who'd passed through the area. He clearly made an impact! His horse died at the temple in 384 AD.

    After rejoining our fellow travellers we spent a pleasant few hours observing the locals, partaking of the local beverage and enjoying the stunning light show.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Chinese birth year statues
    Beautiful bronze sculptures

    Jiayuguan and the Great Wall

    26 maj 2019, Kina ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Jiayuguan City is the access point for the great fort of Jiayuguan. Our hotel was located opposite a lovely park, featuring wonderful sculptures and beautiful gardens. The Chinese certainly know how to create beautiful public spaces.

    Built to mark the end of the Ming Great Wall, the fort was considered as the limit of Chinese civilization and the beginning of the outer barbarian lands. Anyone exiled beyond the gates of this fort faced a life among nomadic strangers, as well as the wind-blasted wastelands of the Gobi Desert. Not surprising then that it was the least popular station in the entire empire! Apparently even today some Chinese associate this area with exile and despair.

    Completed in 1372, much of fort has been rebuilt and is in great condition. The fort is strategically positioned near the entrance to the Hexi Corridor, a narrow passage through the mountains linking China and the West. It was therefore important for both military and trade activities. It's also the western edge of the Great Wall.

    Nearby is the Overhanging Great Wall, a long stretch of the wall which heads up into the mountains. Finally got to climb a bit of the Great Wall of China! And did it with a great bunch of people too.    Läs mer

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  • Ngaire PhillipsAlong the Silk RoadResenär
    Rock speakerView from the topSunriseBuddhist messages

    Rainbow Mountains

    25 maj 2019, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Danxia National Geopark is a relatively recent addition to the tourist trail in this part of China. Apparently known to the locals for years, the area was promoted through a Chinese action film in the early 2000s. The spectacular scenery has since attracted national and international attention.

    It truly is a beautiful place. It's just a pity the Chinese authorities who created the impressive visitor facilities saw fit to install speakers everywhere. The constant advertisements and elevator music detracted from any thoughts of communing with nature and was a reminder of what we had observed elsewhere - the need for constant noise.

    We visited the mountains in late afternoon and then again early morning. Sun rise over the mountains is apparently quite spectacular when the sky is clear. Unfortunately the cloud persisted and the colours were muted; nonetheless it was still worth the effort of the early morning, even if just to avoid the crowds and the music! The sound of the wind was a symphony by comparison.    Läs mer

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