Norway
Holebakkane

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    • Day 13

      Day in Geirangar

      July 18, 2023 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

      What a day!! Though the temperature has dropped by about 20° since we arrived in Scandinavia, we simply rug up and enjoy some of the most amazing views ever!! That's what raincoats are for, right? We started the day with a cruise along Geirangerfjord. It's misty and cold and threatening to rain. In fact, the chances of rain today are 90%! We board one of the sightseeing boats (it's a vehicular boat) and chug the 7km or so to Hellesylt at the end of the fjord arm, taking a little over an hour. It turns even cooler and the rain starts but that doesn't stop me from spending the entire trip on deck, with trusty raincoat working overtime. I was the only one standing at the end ... mad, right? My fingers are freezing but it's worth the risk of frostbite to take in all that Geirangerfjord has to offer. I think we're lucky to be travelling in the rain ... the waterfalls are waterfalling like crazy and it's spectacular. We pass the Seven Sisters Waterfall with The Suitor on the opposite bank. Legend has it that a young man tried to court seven sisters but none of them would have him. Somehow, they were turned into waterfalls (the famous Norwegian trolls probably did it) and they were destined to stay on opposite sides of the fjord forever. Serves him right for messing with sisters!! Either way, they looked lovely and lively in the mists of the fjord.
      We take the bus along the famous Golden Route to Dalsnibba, the highest lookout in Norway - 1500m above sea level. Again, we take the hairy hairpin bends around uber-steep cliffs and pay the exorbitant toll to take the private road to Dalsnibba. From Stryn (where we stop for lunch and eat Norwegian cake because we can and is delicious so why not?) it's only 21kms but the incline makes the ride 40+ minutes. There is more oohing and ahhing and gnashing of teeth from the bus occupants along the risky way. You will recognise the view here from every travel photograph ever taken in Norway ever!! Our photos show mists and clouds and it is still spectacular. Sam doesn't brave the cold for very long (which is fair ... it's 3° after all) but I try for some sucky selfies to prove that I am brave enough to step onto the cliff, bold enough to walk the skywalk and stupid enough to stand in the cold and the rain for the sake of photography. My fingers are frozen again within minutes because I'm not wearing my gloves. These are the sacrifices we make for photography, right? I love it!!
      We return to Geiranger the "back way" (still as glorious as ever), descending into the mists that is the windy and treacherous road that leads to Geiranger. We get off at the midway point down the mountain to walk the "Waterfall Way" to the township and ogle more glorious waterfalls along the way. It's rugged but the walk is easy. We reward ourselves with a boozy dinner and our room view over the, now, rain-free and ever-beautiful Geirangerfjord. Samara laments because she only patted one puppy today...
      My posts are getting longer ... I don't apologise 😉
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    • Day 7

      Geiranger Camping

      June 11, 2018 in Norway

      Heute genießen wir den bekannten Ort am bekannten Fjord. Über Nacht haben allerdings mehrere Kreuzfahrtschiffe in der relativ engen Bucht angelegt und wir können beobachten, wir mehrere hundert Reisende an Land gebracht wurden und den kleinen Ort überfluteten. Am ausfahrbaren Steg lag ein riesiges "Mein Schiff 5", hoch wie ein Hochhaus, und die Landgänger konnten zu Fuß den Ort erreichen. Wir wollten auch die Umgebung erkunden und mussten an den Wasserfällen an den ständig fotographierenden Reisenden vorbei. Teilweise nicht ungefährlich, da auf den nassen Treppen zu viele Menschen sich drängelten.
      Die 4-5 schiffe hatten während des Ausflugs ihrer Gäste die ganze Zeit die Motoren laufen und verpesteten mit den Abgasen das ganze Tal. Grenzen des Massentourismus sind erreicht...so schön es hier ist, dabei muss man sich gut überlegen mitzumachen.
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    • Day 4

      Vindsåshornet

      April 21, 2012 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 0 °C

      After our lunch stop we decided to head up in the direction of the tallest peak. As we were climbing we passed many powerful waterfalls; the sound not dissimilar from a jet engine. On the quieter stretches though I noted the clarity of the tiny streams that fed the larger watercourses further down. This place beautiful both in its grandeur and its details.

      Shortly after however it became apparent that we had taken a path other than that which we intended. Some of the way markers are painted onto rocks, and we suspect we missed some that were covered by the patchy snow lower down. This put us on the wrong side of a large waterfall, whose nearest crossing is back down the mountain side (around 300m above the fjord, by this time were in the region of 600m above it).

      Time had also gone on; by this point it was around 19:45, so we concluded there was no time to back-track and do the walk we had planned (at least not to do it and be sure of being off the mountain before darkness fell). Given that we decided to press on with the route that we were following.

      Normally the route we were following was less technical; graded a difficulty 3 out of 4, but in April it is covered in over a foot of snow. This made for heavy going, and before too long we had an equipment problem. Chris’s over-trousers don’t tighten at the ankle (ironically, my much older, cheaper ones do); this allowed snow to get under the trouser hem and over the top of his boot. As a consequence melted snow had left him with wet feet.

      By this point we were (we estimate) around 700m up the slope (the peak of this particular mountain lies at around 1,400m. This high, and in these temperatures having soaked feet is no small issue, so we decided that 700m is high enough and turned around at about 20:15. On the bright side, the rain had stopped by this point.
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