Old Muscat

Platform shoes never really went out of fashion did they. From the 13C to the 1970's people wobbled around avoiding the ordure swirling around beneath them. So these are Qrhaf or Qubqab, Japanese stile clogs made in Oman for going to the bathroom. Why a pawn I could not determine, though clearly supposed to fit between one's toes.

The Bait Al Zubair Museum, (and guess what ... ... it was converted from a restored 1930's trad house,) in Old Muscat is a very fine one and full of stuff. It houses the largest, private collection of Omani artifacts in the country. Founded in 1914 as a private family residence by His Excellency Mohammad Al Zubair’s father, Sheikh Al Zubair bin Ali, Bait Al Zubair was turned into a museum in 1998.

Two sections described how men and women tied and wore their garments, One room had models of the main forts in Oman and another the artisanal techniques used, (for example the Akhdar method of making Rose-water.)

While the main building was pretty full of visitors, I discovered another building housing a mini-theatre / cinema that was completely empty of people. There were 4 levels of artworks on show, and I was impressed by the quality of the work by well known Omani painters. Why they languished in isolation I could not explain but took full advantage of the peace. I was surprised by the works only because I expected a gallery full of paint chucked on walls and other 'iconic' masterpieces with names like "oiled pigments gliding organically down weaved cotton" (cf Museum of Modern Art in Sydney and many other cities.) Instead I could appreciate good technique in various styles even if some of the artistic vision was beyond my myopic reach (even with my specs on).

Omani music is big on rhythm, combining Arab beats with African. Owing to its location on the Arabian Peninsula, it has been influenced by Indian, Portuguese, Yemeni, Iranian and even Tanzanian traditions. There are more than 130 traditional forms from different local regions. One of the instruments used is the tambura, also called fann at-tanbura or nuban; a six-string device that looks like it should be played with the drum at the top. Drawing its influence from Africa, the strings called 'khiyut' are beaten with a horn.Read more