Retirement Plan - Part 2

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Retirement Plan - Part 2 Viaggiatore
Buddha Eden - Garden of Peace
19 novembre 2018, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
In 2001, wealthy Portuguese investor and art patron, José Berado, was so incensed by the Taliban governments destruction of the Buddhas of Bamiyan in Afghanistan that he decided to create a large sculpture park on the grounds of his winery in order in pay homage to cultural and spiritual monuments.

The result is Buddha Eden, 86 acres of manicured gardens interspersed with lakes, sculptures and contemporary art, surrounded by fields and vines, just an hour north of Lisbon.

We visited on a bright, sunny day and were immediately impressed by the immense Buddha statues standing and reclining above the cork trees, the gold decoration glistening from afar. The topiary olive trees were a first for us but they worked perfectly alongside the water where koi carp came to investigate us.

The garden has evolved over the years and now features the African Sculpture Art Garden dedicated to the Shona people of Zimbabwe who have been carving stone into works of art for over a thousand years. There are now over 200 works of African art on display through the winding bamboo walkways. This part of the garden is currently being expanded and we were able to see the fabulous recreations of some of Africa's wildlife in recycled metal. We look forward to seeing the final result when the landscaping is complete and the art is placed in situ.

Part of Berado's own sculpture collection is also on display with contemporary art works from far afield.

Over a bridge and around a corner and we were greeted by a cobalt blue replica of the terracotta army from China!

Our visit culminated in the shop where we were able to buy some wine from the vineyard, although many others from Portugal's vineyards were available.

We have seen lots of interesting places on our travels over the years but we both agreed that this was one of the best as it surprised us at every corner.Leggi altro
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Retirement Plan - Part 2 Viaggiatore
South to Setúbal & dinosaur footprints
22 novembre 2018, Portogallo ⋅ 🌧 13 °C
After a longer than expected stay in Nazaré, because there was so much to see around there and the weather was very changeable, we headed south to an Ecoparque site at Outão, on the Setúbal Peninsula, an hour from Lisbon.

Our site, just outside the busy town and port of Setúbal (birthplace of José Mourinho) is set on the shores of the Sado estuary, home to bottlenose dolphins and flamingoes. We have a great view of the estuary and watch in amazement as ships, guided by local pilots, navigate through the sandbanks while locals fish with three rods from their pedalo canoes.

Behind us is the Parque Natural da Arrábida, covering the 35km-long Serra da Arrábida mountain range, which provided us with panoramic vistas across to Lisbon on one side and the beaches and estuary on the other as we made our way across it on the motorbike in search of dinosaur footprints!

We took the coast road as far as we could to Cabo Espichel and admired the lighthouse that stood tall above the sheer cliffs. It would have guided us, as it did many others, when we were making our journey south in the boat years earlier. It is in this area that it is possible to see dinosaur footprints embedded in the limestone cliffs but with neither time nor the weather for that on our side, we headed inland to a more accessible site at Zambujal.

Years earlier, local quarrymen came across some strange markings in the stone they were working on. Further investigation revealed that these were dinosaur footprints that were 150 million years old! We couldn't even imagine something of that age but the storyboard explained how, from the footprints, the experts were able to work out the size, age and speed of the dinosaurs.

The area is also full of gastronomic specialities so we could be here for some time........Leggi altro
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Retirement Plan - Part 2 Viaggiatore
Sardines, cake, choco frito, vinho verde
29 novembre 2018, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
As well as a great location, Setúbal and the surrounding area has lots to offer to tempt the taste buds.

Sardine fishing, processing and canning was once a huge employer in the town with over 140 factories which did everything from processing the fish to making the tins and then decorating them using lithography to create very attractive labels before they were exported all over the world. Today they are no more but one of the factories has been turned into a museum showcasing life in those days and includes a 1920's shop that was transported from Lisbon to go on show here.

As well as sardines, the town is famous for its choc frito - deep-fried cuttlefish. Every restaurant sells it, there is a cuttlefish jumping out of a frying pan statue on the main street and the market is full of them. They resemble ginormous squid and, whilst we love squid, I really didn't think I would like what looked like huge pieces of deep-fried rubber, but I was wrong and they were tender and juicy especially accompanied by a glass or two of chilled vinho verde, a young, slightly sparkling and light, local white wine.

We also tried some Azeitão ewe's cheese from the hills just behind us. It was very runny and spreadable with a tangy flavour. Azeitão is also famous for its cake rolls, light sponge with a custard filling.

One of our favourite finds though was Moscatel de Setúbal, a sweet, fortified wine served chilled with a twist of lemon peel, as an aperitif.

If only Setúbal could guarantee the weather, we could stayed all winter but the warmer temperatures were beckoning us south.Leggi altro
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Retirement Plan - Part 2 Viaggiatore
Hello from the Algarve
6 gennaio 2019, Portogallo ⋅ 🌙 11 °C
We chose to take the toll motorway from Setúbal to the Algarve as we had been told that the alternative was a long, bumpy journey over badly maintained roads. Just 3 hours and €48 later (this was because we had to pay the 4-axle rate!), we arrived at Turiscampo, just outside Praia de Luz and Lagos.

The site certainly lives up to the great reviews with indoor & outdoor pools and jacuzzis, luxurious showers with non-stop hot water, on-site restaurant/bar & supermarket, spa & gym and daily activities that include free Portuguese lessons, yoga and archery. We could be here a while!

On Christmas Eve, we walked into the village of Espiche to The Grapevine bar/restaurant where we joined other Brits singing Christmas carols with music provided by a brass instrument quartet. On Christmas Day morning we had a walk along the beach at Praia de Luz before returning to cook a traditional turkey roast minus sprouts as we couldn't find any!

Over the Christmas & New Year week, the campsite bar put on nightly entertainment so there was plenty of music and dancing to enjoy. We saw in the New Year in the bar and raised a toast to all of our family and friends, while the local Portuguese danced a waltz to see in 2019.

From what we have seen so far, the area in this western end of the Algarve looks very interesting with rugged cliffs and rock formations, sandy beaches, old towns, surfing and the mountainous woodlands of Monchique and Fóia at 902m, the Algarve's highest point. Looks like the motorbike is going to getting plenty of use.Leggi altro
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Retirement Plan - Part 2 Viaggiatore
West Coast & Carvoeiro, Portugal
17 gennaio 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
A trip out on the bike to explore some of the west coast where we watched hang-gliders soaring above the cliffs.

Next day we did a coastal walk along the cliffs at Carvoeiro with Dutch friends Hans & Mireille followed by an Italian themed buffet at the campsite restaurant. Fab day.Leggi altro
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World Super Bikes winter testing
18 gennaio 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Just 12 miles from our campsite, in a beautiful, countryside setting between the sea and the hills of Monchique, we paid a visit to the Autodromo International do Algarve.

At the time of our visit, this new and highly impressive facility was hosting pre-season final testing for the World Super Bikes, before they head off to Australia to start the seasons racing.

Unlike Moto GP, which is the biking equivalent of Formula 1, the WSB bikes are all production based and both look and sound spectacular. It was a great opportunity to experience these machines close-up, being ridden by young men who had quite clearly overdosed on the brave pills for breakfast.

Fortunately, Chris did not try to emulate them on the journey back on our bike!Leggi altro
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Cliff Richard in the Algarve
9 febbraio 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
For the past couple of months, we have been lucky to find ourselves in the same campsite as Hans & Mireille, a Dutch couple who recently bought a caravan and decided to do some exploring. We've had plenty of good times together and when they asked us to join them for a day trip out, we didn't hesitate.

First stop was the beautiful church of St. Lawrence in Almancil whose origins date from the 16th century. The whole of the interior including the domed ceiling is decorated with famous blue and white Portuguese glazed tiles known as 'azulejos', in contrast to the highly gilded alter piece and woodwork. The tiles depict the life of St. Lawrence, who became the patron Saint back in 1722 when local inhabitants, desperate for water, implored the Saint for help while digging, vowing to build a temple if only they could find water. You can guess at what happened next.

From here we headed into the town of Loulé, to see the art-nouveau building of the market with its Arab-influenced cupolas and tiles. It was in here that we had a bit of a shock to see Cliff Richard stood behind a counter selling wine! Doing a double-take and upon closer inspection, it turned out that it wasn't the man in person but a life-size cutout peddling wine from his vineyard nearby!

A cup of coffee and a pastel de nata later and we went down to the coast to check out the famous Praia Falaise, a stretch of beach between Albufeira and Vilamoura where the deep terracotta cliffs and rock formations took our breath away. We walked along the beach and then up and along the clifftop marveling at nature.

We had a great day out and added to our collection of good times with our pals.Leggi altro
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Retirement Plan - Part 2 Viaggiatore
Silves Castelo & Odeceixe beach
10 febbraio 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Silves is an attractive town, 15km inland from the coast, built above the banks of the Rio Arade, once an important trading route into the interior for the Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians, who wanted the copper and iron minerals found in this part of the country.

The cathedral, with its Gothic interior and tombs, and castle are its main tourist attractions today. From the castle ramparts the views take in the town, surrounding countryside and hills in the distance. The castle today dates mostly from the Moorish era and lots of excavating is currently going on unearthing treasures from times past. A lot of restoration took place during the 20th century when the castle was beginning to look very unloved. One of the most recent, modern additions was to incorporate a cafe into the castle grounds. Here we sat in the sunshine, surrounded by history, for a bite to eat. The 12th century water cisterns, 5m deep, are host temporary exhibitions. It was here that we learnt about the Iberian Lynx and how it is close to extinction despite large numbers found in Portugal only 80 years ago. People are working hard to reintroduce this beautiful wild cat and build the numbers back up. There is a long way to go.

On the west coast we visited Praia Odexeice, a beautiful, horseshoe shaped beach at the head of an estuary that carved its way through the valley floor. With the Atlantic surf pounding the outlying rocks, we sat on the clifftop looking down onto the fine, golden sands below where a few brave people were dipping their toes into the cold waters below.Leggi altro
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Friends and family visit
15 febbraio 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Friends Yvonne and Ross made a road trip from their home in Spain to spend a few days with us, staying in one of the bungalows at our campsite. We have been blessed with great weather this winter but unfortunately their trip happened to coincide with a cold snap. Despite some blustery and wet conditions, they were still happy to do some sightseeing and our laughter made up for the lack of sunshine.

Not long afterwards, my sister, Audra, and her husband, Gavin, flew in from the UK for a few days. Like Yvonne and Ross, they too stayed in one of the bungalows. However, unlike Yvonne and Ross, they had much better weather during their stay. We had a busy few days together visiting our favourite places from the beaches of Alvor, up to Foia, the highest point in the Algarve, where Audra was able to buy a thick, knitted cardigan to keep her warm back home in Yorkshire.

Our time in the eastern Algarve is almost at its end, so now we are getting ourselves ready to hit the road again. We have loved our time down here and look forward to returning again at some point.Leggi altro
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Tavira
20 febbraio 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Tavira has played an important role here in the Algarve. The Romans built the seven-arched bridge across the Rio Gilão at Tavira to link Castro Marim, near the Spanish border, to Faro. The Moors occupied the town in the 8th century and then Dom Pères Correia reconquered it in 1242. As the closet Portuguese port to Morocco, it became important during the Age of Discoveries, serving as a base for expeditions to North Africa. By 1520 it had become the Algarve's most populated settlement and was raised rank to a city.

Its decline began in the 17th century when North African expeditions were abandoned and the river silted up. If that wasn't enough, the plague struck in 1645, followed by the earthquake of 1755! After it's tuna fishing and canning industry also declined in the 1950's, tourists have now become the biggest source of income and it is a lovely place to visit.

We climbed to the castle ramparts for views across the numerous terracotta rooftops where we glimpsed a young couple having lunch on their roof terrace in the sunshine. Whilst today's structure is a reconstruction from the 17th century, the castle is believed to date back to neolithic times and was rebuilt by the Phoenicians. In the small interior garden we saw what we can only describe as an upside down hydrangea tree. The huge tree was laden with heavily-scented pink hydrangea flowers that hung downwards. It was beautiful. After crossing the Roman bridge we came across another beautiful garden that was small but well manicured.

As we wandered around we noticed a lot of building renovations going on so it looks like Tavira is working hard at its reputation as 'arguably the Algarve's most charming town'.Leggi altro
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Friday in Faro
22 febbraio 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
From our new base at Campsite Ria Formosa, near Tavira in the eastern Algarve, we jumped on the bike to visit Faro, the capital of the Algarve and a place that is sometimes overlooked by visitors who just pass through heading to and from the airport.

We spent our time wandering around the cobbled streets of the old town and around the marina. Within the medieval walls the centrepiece is the cathedral, completed in 1251 but, like everything else down here, it was badly damaged in the 1755 earthquake and todays version is a mixture of gothic, renaissance and baroque architecture. The interior was beautifully decorated with tiles, painted wood and a gilded alter. The baroque organ was being played and added atmosphere to our visit. We think all churches and cathedrals should have music playing or choirs singing in between masses. It really makes a difference! The cathedral also houses a small museum of priestly vestments, chalices and grisly relics of St. Bonifaces forearms. However, more macabre was to come outside with a shrine built of monks skulls and bones! We climbed the tower and came out onto a terrace housing the bells with magnificent views across the city and the Rio Formosa Nature Reserve, where the sand banks would make for tricky navigation.

The square in front of the cathedral was lined with orange trees that were in full blossom and their fragrance filled the air as bees and insects gorged on the nectar.

We had lunch outside on the upper floor of a restaurant overlooking the marina and enjoyed the sun shine while watching the world go by below.

A lovely day.Leggi altro
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It's been a busy few days!
23 febbraio 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
A weekend of absolutely gorgeous weather made for getting out and about on the bike and it started with 168 of them!

Our campsite location coincided with one of the 5 stages in the 45th Volte do Algarve, a professional cycle race across the Algarve with international teams taking part. As we joined other spectators on the side of the road, the police arrived and, at the appointed time, closed off the road to allow the huge pack of riders through. We looked in amazement as the cycling throng descended the hill before us and then swiftly divided into two packs to circumnavigate the roundabout. Blink, and you missed it.

Out on our bike, we did a three-centre day trip taking in Vila Real de Santo Antonio, which looks eye-to-eye with Spain across the Guadiana River, the impressive 14th century castle and lunch in Castro Marim which is a typical Portuguese town of white-washed houses, and finally Cacela Vehla, a tiny cobble-stoned, historic town overlooking the start of the sandy islands that make up the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa.

As if that wasn't enough, the next day we headed down the road to the fishing village of Santa Luzia and Praia do Barril, a stunning offshore beach with miles and miles of white sand that ranks in the Top 10 beaches of the Algarve, if not No. 1 in our opinion. We crossed the bridge that connects the mainland with the island, and then rather than taking the small tourist train to the beach, we chose to take the path instead and read the story-boards about the various birds on the way. Buildings that once housed tuna fishermen and their families are now home to a couple of restaurants, but fortunately the tourist factor has been kept low-key here. Alongside the buildings is an anchor cemetery where rows of varying sized anchors lie part-buried the the sand as a reminder of times gone by.

Santa Luzia is famous for its octopus and we were looking forward to sampling some. Chris made a great choice of an octopus stew with black pudding, smoked ham, beans and rice. I didn't make such a good choice in deep-fried octopus patties but the location was superb, as we sat in the sunshine overlooking the beach front.Leggi altro
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Andalusia Day in Malaga
28 febbraio 2019, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Our journey from Portugal to Spain took us around busy Seville (which would have been quicker had the outer ring road been completed!) and then on to a campsite overlooking La Vinuela lake, a perfect location in order to visit our friends Nigel and Tracy whom we hadn't seen for a year.

Unfortunately, Tracy was back in the UK but we entertained ourselves in her absence with a trip into the historical centre of Malaga. It was a beautiful day and the streets were packed with Spanish families enjoying the outdoors but shouldn't the children have been at school and the parents at work on a weekday? Normally yes, but it was Andalusia Day and everyone was making the most of a day off.

We wandered around the old town, which has been beautifully restored; pedestrian streets flanked by both modern shops and traditional tapas bars, as well as a Gothic cathedral and the Alcazabar complete with a roman amphitheatre. The port area has been rebuilt and now welcomes cruiseships to swell the town's coffers.

There are lots of green spaces throughout the busy centre with wild parakeets screeching through the treetops and a golden, sandy beach along its edge.

The next day we met up with Peter and Sally, friends of Nigel and Tracy that we had met the year before, for a beachfront lunch. Fish, octopus, lamb and goat were all enjoyed as we caught up with one another.

Wish we could have stayed longer but we look forward to returning later in the year.Leggi altro
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Cabo de Gata - Europe's desert
6 marzo 2019, Spagna ⋅ 🌬 18 °C
With less than 200mm of rain in an average year, Cabo de Gata, which sticks out into the Mediterranean, is described as Europe's only true desert, and with good reason. The 340 sq. km area of coast and hinterland is a protected marine and land nature reserve, declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1997.

Of volcanic origin with an extremely arid climate, rich in mineral deposits and yet sun-baked and wind swept, you feel as though you are in a completely different world from the Iberian peninsula that lies behind.

We stayed at Los Esculos campsite and enjoyed visiting the area by motorbike. The roads were made for two wheels. Small, white villages with cubist buildings stood out against the deep red and green background with a dusting of colour from the spring flowers, though we were told that the dry winter meant that the flower displays were much smaller this year.

As well as the dramatic cliffs of the coastline, the town of Nijar, 24 miles inland, is also included in the nature reserve and is well worth a visit. Located on the lower slopes of the Sierra Alhamila, the many springs ensure a constant water supply, which was of great importance in the towns development over the ages. We climbed the steps up to the old lookout tower for a panoramic view of the area. On the way up, we came across some wonderful cave houses, that are available to rent, and met the friendly British owner, Chris, who showed us around. Nijar is a very traditional town with locals producing quality ceramics, and woven goods.

The only downside to this area is the belt of plastic green houses running close to the main road, providing year-round fruit and vegetables for much of Europe. We have no issues with the greenhouses, but we were astounded by the amount of disguarded rubbish and shabbiness of this area. A few people were living in make-shift homes, part fallen-down wall, part plastic sheeting, who obviously had no respect for the environment but then we didn't see any signs of rubbish bins or collection by the local council. It was a very strange sight on the edge of a nature reserve.

Despite this, we would come back here to enjoy the remote and wild nature that it has to offer.Leggi altro
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Time to visit Vera!
10 marzo 2019, Spagna ⋅ 🌙 18 °C
We headed to Camping Indalo, on the outskirts of the town of Vera, to see our friends Yvonne & Ross who live close by. Having never been to this campsite before, we followed the directions and began to wonder where we were going when we ended up on a road that was taking us into the Spanish back of beyond and then through a tennis club, that led to the campground. We needn't have worried when we picked our spot on the top terrace with panoramic views of the surrounding multi-coloured rocky hills, which changed colour throughout the day as the sun moved across them.

Our first night there coincided with an Open Mic Nite in the campsite restaurant where Chris was enthralled by a Cajon, a complete drum kit set-up within a wooden box. Small and compact, yet with a big sound. I can see a purchase coming on!

A stroll along the beachfront and then lunch overlooking the beach in Mojacar with Yvonne and Ross was the best way to spend a brilliantly sunny day.

The coastal road north of Vera looked very inviting and so we took a bike ride up to Aguilas where we found the town in full on party mode getting ready for the final night of their Carnival celebrations. It was much more peaceful from the castle ramparts where we could see for miles all around as we surveyed the land and sea. The castle had been recently restored and gave the visitor a good idea of how life would have been in the 16th century. Chris was quite taken by the kitchen display and could see himself preparing a meal for us without too much difficulty.

We look forward to returning before too long.Leggi altro
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Mennems in Murcia!
12 marzo 2019, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
From our base at Lo Monte campsite in Pilar de la Horadada, on the Mar Menor, we were only a few miles from friends Michelle and Shaun, whom we had met the previous year when skiing in the Sierra Nevada. A lovely catch up and lunch next to the beach was followed by a surprise visit to see Orlando, Michelle's ex-racehorse. Eager to show us what a beauty he is, she asked if we would like to ride him. It wasn't for me, not being very confident around horses, but Chris was very happy to switch from a motorbike saddle to a horse saddle for a walk around the paddock.

It was also a great base from which to visit the city of Murcia on the banks of the Rio Segura. What a gem of a city it is; small enough to visit on foot, full of beautiful architecture and elegance, and delicious tapas.

The 1748 baroque facade of the Catedral de Santa Maria reminded us of our time in Sicily, though this had originally been built in 1394 on the site of a mosque, like most of the cathedrals and churches in Spain. Whilst the interior was impressive, the chapels, choir and main altar were all behind black iron railings which gave a feeling of oppression rather than welcome. We found that very strange.

Next we visited the Real Casino de Murcia (Royal Casino), which opened as a gentlemen's club in 1847, and remains so though the ground floor is open to the public. It has quite recently been restored to its former glory and given the Royal seal of approval by King Juan Carlos. The building is a melting pot of different designs and an audio guide navigated us through a colourful Moorish-style patio, a classic English-style library with 20,000 books, a ballroom with glittering chandeliers, and a ladies powder room with a ceiling fresco of cherubs and angels.

Feeling peckish, we headed over to Piazza San Pedro which was buzzing with restaurants and tapas bars. We ordered a selection of impressive tapas including a mouth-watering ceviche that we could have eaten over and over again, cod with pork fat crumb and squid-ink sauce, and croquettes of mushrooms and black pudding. All delicious.Leggi altro
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Jávea, Costa Blanca
20 marzo 2019, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
The drive to our next destination, Jávea, took us along the coast road, past busy Alicante and even bigger and busier Benidorm, and through the centre of pretty Altea before the road became steeper and twisty as we began to climb higher before turning off and heading down to Camping El Naranjal.

Jávea is a small town, set in a beautiful bay, that has resisted the high-rise developments. Divided into three areas; the old town, the marina and the beach, and surrounded by the mountains of the Montgó Natural Park, it is a place that we quickly felt at home in.

Our campsite, once an orange grove and still surrounded by them, was small and friendly with the beach area and most other things just a 5 minute walk away. The old town, with its great market, narrow streets and inviting restaurants and shops, and the marina, were further away but made for a good walk which was rewarded by a cool drink and tapas overlooking the bay.

With the bike we went to the most eastern tip at Cabo de la Nao where, on a clear day you can see Ibiza, but not the day we were there, though the dramatic cliffs and indented coves below made up for it. On another trip, we took the narrow, twisty scenic road over to Denia, a major passenger port for the nearby Baleric islands. There were some very fancy boats in the marina there, which is much larger than the one in Jávea, but the old town is very attractive to wander around with lots of interesting restaurants set in pretty squares. On the way back, we stopped halfway at the lighthouse for a fantastic, panoramic view of Javeá and the bay.

Our visit also gave us the opportunity to meet up with friends Ray and Mel who have made Jávea their home after many years in Asia. Though we hadn't seen each other for a long time, it did not feel like that at all as we caught up on news and enjoyed each others company, as well as Mel's paella!

As we enjoyed a sundowner, watching Montgó mountain change colour in the evening sun and with the orange blossom fragrance filling the air, we wished we could stay longer but it wasn't possible on this occasion. But that was OK because we will definitely be back.Leggi altro
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Visiting Valencia
20 marzo 2019, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Camping Valencia, 20km north of Valencia, made for a great base from which to visit Spain's third-largest city by train.

The original city of 'Valentia' was founded on the banks of the Rio Turia in 138BC but was later destroyed in 75BC. The Moors made Valencia an agricultural and industrial centre, establishing ceramics, paper, silk and leather industries and they introduced rice cultivation.

Its golden age was in the 15th and 16th centuries, when the city was one of the Mediterranean's strongest trading centres, before Seville took that title away and a decline began. The industrialisation of the 19th century led to the development of a lucrative citrus trade to northern Europe and to this day Valencian oranges are everywhere.

Severe floods in 1949 and 1957 led to the Rio Turia being diverted away from the city centre and the dry riverbed was converted into a park, that winds through the city for 9km, providing the Valencians with a large, green space on their doorstep. How original!

We arrived at Estacion del Norte, right on the edge of the historic centre, and made our way to Horchateria de Santa Catalina for a glass of horchata, a Valencian speciality, and - don't laugh - fartóns! The sugary, opaque drink is made from crushed chufas, which despite the name tiger nut, is actually a tuber. Into this you dip large finger-shaped buns called fartóns.

Fortified by fartóns, we headed across the square to visit the cathedral where an excellent audio guide navigated us around. Built over the mosque after the 1238 conquest, the cathedral is mostly gothic in design with rich italianate frescoes. Recent renovations include a modern museum where you can get up close to centuries old artifacts and paintings. However, we could not get very close to the cathedral's crowning glory, the Holy Grail, the cup from which Christ sipped during the last supper. Apparently, the dating of the cup would suggest it could be true.

After a delicious and great-value 5-course sampler lunch at Restaurant Delicat, we wandered the narrow streets and squares admiring scenes that reminded us of our time in Sicily. We climbed to the top of Torres de Serranos, one of only two remains of the imposing 14th century city walls and looked across the rooftops of the city and down into part of the Turia gardens. We weren't the only ones there though, groups of French and German students were all eagerly taking selfies, taking the volume levels up a notch or five!

Whilst Valencia is a large and elegant city, it does have a laid-back feel as if the locals are very happy letting Madrid and Barcelona take the limelight, leaving them to get on with enjoying life there.Leggi altro
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Paella cooking school
1 aprile 2019, Spagna ⋅ 🌧 13 °C
Valencia is the birthplace of paella and therefore the best place to learn how to produce this quintessential Spanish dish.

We signed up to a course at the Escuela de Arroces y Paella Valenciana (Valencia School of Rice & Paella) and had a fabulous and fun time learning the tricks of the trade.

First off was a trip to the central market to buy the ingredients. Constructed in 1928, the covered market was a foodies delight with over 500 stalls. Valencia is surrounded by huertas, market gardens, which provide the market with the freshest fruit and vegetables. Our guide talked us through the process of choosing the correct paprika (smoked for a Valencian paella which is chicken, rabbit and mountain snails and sweet for a seafood paella). We stopped off to buy 2kg of small rock fish that would be used to make a rich fish stock and smelt the rich aroma of the pure saffron which, at €4500/kilo, we were careful not to drop.

Back in the kitchen, appropriately attired in our chefs hats and aprons, we listened as our professional, top for the day, Pepe, as he explained and demonstrated each step of the dish. Most students were making the traditional Valencian paella but one had chosen to do the seafood version so we had the chance to learn about both. Tip - a Valencian paella would never mix mountain and sea, so it's either meat or seafood. You would never add chorizo either! Nothing was weighed or measured but Pepe shared his tips on how much oil, water and rice to add to the pan.

After all our hard work, we then sat down with our fellow students to enjoy the results of our labour, which was served with a tortilla starter that the kitchen had prepared for us and delicious wines.

We had a great time with fellow students from across Europe, and would recommended this to anyone who has an interest in cooking. We look forward to putting this new experience into practice and are now on the hunt for a small, paella dish!Leggi altro
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Final stop on the Spanish coast
5 aprile 2019, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
For our final stop on the Spanish coast, we headed to the Costa Dorada (Golden Coast) and checked into Camping Playa Montroig.

The campsite had just re-opened for the summer season and is located close to the towns of Cambrils and Salou, is 30km south of Tarragona and about 100km south of Barcelona. The site is the largest (1200 pitches) and swishest we have ever stayed at, as well as being the most expensive on the continent at €31 euros per night. But it is right on the beach and has great facilities while further north it is windy and raining. So, we decided to stay down on the coast where the sun is still shining and then do a quick dash up to the north coast to catch our ferry back to the UK next week.

During our stay here, we took the opportunity to visit the bustling port town of Tarragona, home to Spain's second most important Roman ruins. Chris negotiated the twisty, busy roads of the city centre while I tried to read the road signs over his shoulder. Between us we managed to park up right next to the historic centre with panoramic views down to the port and big container ships moored out to sea waiting their turn to come in to load up.

We wandered around a corner and came upon a very well-preserved Roman amphitheatre overlooking the beach. Within the arena were the remains of 6th & 12th century churches built to commemorate the martyrdom of a Bishop and two deacons believed to have been burnt alive here in AD259. Not sure which is worse, that or being hacked to death by gladiators or wild animals!

The small historic centre had plenty of ruins to see with good story boards to go with them so that we could easily picture the chariot racing that took place there.

In September each year, the city celebrates the Santa Tecla Festival where teams of castellers build human castles by standing on each others shoulders up to 9 levels high. We saw great photos of this event but will have to come back too see the real thing.Leggi altro
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On the road again....
3 luglio 2019, Belgio ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
After spending a great time in the UK visiting family and friends, as well as servicing and MOT's, it was time to hit the road again.

A quick Dover - Calais crossing on a beautiful sunny day and then along a busy coast road towards Belgium, destination Antwerp. We were surprised at just how busy the traffic was, lorry after lorry transporting goods between the UK, France, Germany and Holland alone. It was slow going around Antwerp and we arrived at the Camperpark to be checked in by a guy who wasn't wearing a shirt (well, it was a hot day) but what he lacked in clothing was made up for by upper-body tattoos and a right nipple piercing! Despite being on the outskirts of the city, right next to the exhibition centre, the site was amazingly quiet and had plenty of greenery and lots of wild rabbits.

The reason for us heading to Antwerp was so that Chris could meet up with Frederic Konincxx, an old work colleague and Belgium Lotus car dealer, whom he had not seen for 20 years! Not that it made any difference as they chatted away as though they had only seen each other last week, as Frederic showed us around his showroom and cars.

That evening we had dinner together with Veronique, Frederic's partner, in an Italian restaurant in the grounds of an old castle. The food was amazing and we had a lovely evening together promising to keep in touch.Leggi altro
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Luxembourg
6 luglio 2019, Lussemburgo ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
After Antwerp, we headed south to the Belgian/Luxembourg border and spent the weekend at Camping Hohenbusch, a very well kept site with all amenities and panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.

Neither of us had ever visited Luxembourg so we decided to put that right and drove 65 miles through the country to Luxembourg city in the south. As well as being one of the founding members of the EU and one of the three capitals of the EU (Brussels & Strasbourg are the others) and the seat of the European Court of Justice, it is also home to some major companies due to its tax incentives! We enjoyed a taste of this ourselves when buying petrol and diesel that was 30% cheaper than anywhere else. In contrast to the modern, glass and steel corporate centre, the old city was very ornate and declared a UNESCO World Hertitage site in 1994 due to the exceptional preservation of its fortifications. We enjoyed our visit as well as the quality and quietness of the roads which made riding a bike heaven.Leggi altro
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Mosel Valley, Germany
8 luglio 2019, Germania ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
The Mosel River runs from France, through Luxembourg and then winds its way 195km from Trier to Koblenz in Germany. Our stay at the Triolago motorhome park, just 15 minutes from Trier, proved to be a good choice for visiting the 'mittelmosel/middle mosel' area and sampling the famous white wines.

The river is a working river with long barges moving goods and people around. The barges are so long and narrow that it seems impossible for them to manouvre but they manage it with ease. We sat and watched the boats while sampling some of the local white wines at a Weingut (wine tasting) bar on the waters edge.

A trip on the bike to the pretty town of Bernkastel-Kues took us along the edge of the river, surrounded by steep hillsides covered in vines, and through small, rural villages, all very tidy and well kept. Bernkastel itself, on the eastern bank, was a feast for the eyes with half-timber, stone and slate buildings at every turn along the cobbled streets. In the market square there still exists the iron handcuffs, to which criminals were attached, on the exterior of the Town Hall dating from 1608. The bridge across the Mosel brings you to Kues and the historic St Nikolaus Hospital complex where you can taste from a list of over 160 local wines in the Vinothek. Unfortunately, as we were on the bike, all we could was admire the bottles!Leggi altro
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Trier, Germany's oldest city
10 luglio 2019, Germania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Germany's oldest city, Trier, is home to 9 UNESCO World Heritage sites and has the country's finest collection of Roman monuments. Luckily for us, it was just 15 minutes away from where we were based!

The Porta Nigra is Trier's most famous landmark, a 2nd century Roman city gate, blackened by time hence the name, Latin for 'black gate'. It is held together by nothing but gravity and iron clamps, but it's still standing.

Trier is also the birthplace of Karl Marx. The early 18th century house in which he was born is now a museum housing exhibits covering his life, work, allies and enemies. There is also a grand statue commemorating the citys famous citizen.

At the pedestrian centre was the Hauptmarkt, where you will find small market stalls trading there even today. Medieval and Renaissance buildings surround the square with a 1595 fountain dedicated to St. Peter.

The Mosel drew us yet again as we walked across Germany's oldest bridge, just like legionnaires on chariots before us. The roman bridge uses 2nd century stone pilings from black basalt from the nearby Eifel mountains.

The Barbara Baths, name after a former monastery on the site, were built in the 2nd century. The information panels were excellent and gave us a good insight into what these Roman baths would have looked like when they were being used.

The Romans were certainly very industrious here in the 2nd century and we were very grateful for their efforts that have stood the test of time and are well worth the visit.Leggi altro
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Rhine Valley
12 luglio 2019, Germania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
With some stormy weather forecast, we decided to head over to Camping Sonnenstrand on the outskirts of pretty Bacherach, on the banks of the Rhine River, to sit it out.

This area of the Rhine cuts through deep slate mountains, which are covered in rows and rows of vines. In 2002, UNESCO designated this 65km stretch of river as a World Heritage Site. Pretty villages of half-timbered houses are at every bend and medieval castles, most of which were built by local baron robbers who extorted tolls from merchant ships by blocking their passage with iron chains, perch high above.

Tiny Bacherach is described as one of the prettiest villages and the description fits perfectly. A short walk along the riverbank and then through one of the thick arched gateways and we were inside the medieval half-timbered old town, which is surrounded by a 14th-century wall. From the castle above, which is now a youth hostel, the views of the town and vineyards below, sitting alongside the river, were magnificent, even through the sky had turned grey.

From our pitch, we could see for ourselves how busy the river is. Everything from rowing boats, to sailing boats, to river cruises and ferries and even enormous barges moving goods and containers up and down were using the river continuously. We were told that due to the direction and strength of the current that it takes 3 days for a barge to get from Rotterdam in Holland to Basel in Switzerland but only 1 1/2 days back. We could see this for ourselves when traffic suddenly seemed to stop dead on the water and then had to push hard with the engines to get going again. It kept us occupied while the stormy weather passed through.

A bike journey took us along the west bank, through the villages, up to Koblenz after which we got a bit lost before we found our route down the east bank on the opposite side. Unlike the Mosel which has plenty of bridges crossing the river, the Rhine has many less and car ferries are used frequently to get across. We used one ourselves on our journey back to the campsite. It was all very efficient, just like the local trains which we also used to get back having walked to the next village 4 miles away.

Luckily for us, the Dutch campsite owners were Formula One fans and so the four of us sat and watched the British GP and saw Lewis Hamilton make history becoming the most successful British driver ever by winning six British Grand Prix.

Although surrounded by vines, we didn't manage to taste a lot as we were often out and about on the bike. A good reason to return.Leggi altro
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