Dome of the Rock

An early start today to try to beat the usual crowds lined up to visit the Temple Mount.
We left the apartment just before 7am to arrive at the entry point down near the Dung Gate just after 7.
To our surprise, there was not a single person lined up and we were through security and onto the Temple platform within just a minute or two. Despite Loss wearing her 3/4 length dress especially so as to comply with the modesty standards, it was deemed still unacceptable by the Muslim gentleman at the gate, so mandatory extra skirt it was!

We spent just shy of 3 hours going around all the important features of the platform (with the help of Leen Ritmeyer’s exceptionally helpful book ‘Jerusalem - The Temple Mount’) in the rapidly warming day. Even at this time of the morning we were seeking out shade as and where we could, but were keen to complete the whole tour in the most thorough way possible. Finding the ‘window’ where John of Gischala dug into the wall to undermine and damage the Roman earthworks in the siege, seeing exactly where Paul gave his speech on the north portico at Antonia, finding the original Herodian pavements and the corner of the first temple platform - these and many others leave a powerful impression.
I only got into trouble once today by nonchalantly strolling up to the open doors of the Dome of the Rock hoping that they would think I was a Muslim worshipper, however that was cut short pretty quickly. As usual we were also denied entry to the stairs leading down to the Double Gate at the southern end of the platform as well as the Islamic museum at the southwestern corner.
We exited from the western side of the platform and sought out a little coffee shop that had been recommended which we found via a fairly circuitous route. Google maps had us initially walking through the Arab markets and turning left through some large, locked green gates.
The coffee and carrot cake was indeed very good and we decided we might give ‘The City of David’ a try today. We made our way down by foot through the building crowds and when we arrived there were hoards of people, school groups etc. I spoke to the ticket seller and we mutually agreed it would be a much more enjoyable experience if we came back tomorrow early - between 8 and 9. We thought this was an excellent idea, so headed back up to the Davidson Archeological Park.
There were far fewer people here and we were very pleased for the airconditioning in the museum / theatre.
Since we were last there, the whole experience has been revamped and upgraded with the exhibits and audiovisuals being really first rate. New areas of excavation have been opened up - much of it being ceremonial Mikvehs for pilgrims coming to worship at the Temple.
There was also much better signage and some audio guidance which was quite helpful as well. As always, the best features are the ascending staircase from the south and being able to stand on the stones that Jesus and his disciples stood on and to touch the door frame of the triple gate is a must-do for me. And of course the stones at the southwestern corner that have crashed down and destroyed the pavement near Robinson’s Arch in fulfilment of Jesus’ prophecy that ‘not one stone shall be left standing’ of the Temple.
A quick excursion down the drainage tunnel under Robinson’s arch that links up with the Pool of Siloam was also worthwhile. We hope to do it ‘full length’ in the correct , upward direction from Siloam tomorrow.
Once we were done here, we made our way back up to the Jewish Quarter and our friend at the falafel shop spotted us ‘ ‘Please, you come, sit here, take your time, what would you like - I tell the guys inside serve you straight away’.
So a few falafel balls it was today as a mid afternoon snack to replace a non-existent lunch.
It’s only a short stroll to the Hurva synagogue from here so we made our way up there to use the last part of our Jerusalem multi-ticket.
The synagogue has an interesting history. Having been destroyed by the Jordanians in 1948 during the war of Independence, it lay in ruins for decades but was finally rebuilt and the restoration completed in 2010. The view from the top of the dome was excellent.
One more walk through the east Cardo and then the main part of the Cardo and a familiar walk back to our apartment and we were all done quite early - 4.30pm. Dinner and MM to come.Read more