World trip - Anna & Bertram

oktober 2017 - april 2018
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Et 202-dagers eventyr av placeswetravelled Les mer
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  • Machu Picchu - hiking and more

    12. desember 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Having tried (in vain) to repair our apparently leaky mat during the nights, we did not get much sleep and got up at 04:30 to climb up to the gates of Machu Picchu. With us were some 100 other early birds who marched up the stairs.

    The resulting pole position at the beginning of the queue to enter at 06:00 did not incredibly pay off as the mountain remained misty and in clouds until ~08:00 :-) Therefore, we first hiked to the Inka bridge, a very narrow path on the cliffs which culminates in a bridge made of a couple of planks to cross a gap in the stonework. Again, we could see how the Inka were very skilled architects and built their empire based on skillfully connecting the remotest parts.

    Coming back to the main compound, we made our way quickly through the houses, temples, and yards to get to the entrance to the Huayna Picchu Park area, the “smaller peak” overlooking the ruins. We decided to do the full circle, first climbing the peak of Huayna Picchu and then descending on the back to pass by the temple of the moon and back via some cliff stairs again :-) despite the many warnings, the way is actually in really good shape and as long as one is not afraid of heights it’s a doable and worthwhile hike! And we were lucky that the clouds parted as we were at the top!

    We then exited and re-entered (stupid Machu Picchu one-way circuits do not allow for going back...) to enjoy the by now sunny view over the ruins and even meet the one or other llama grazing on the terraces.

    At 12:30 we started to hike down, needing to pack our tent and backpacks and catch the train back to Ollantaytambo.

    Sitting on the train, eating some expensive icecream the legs started to feel tired and heavy. But we were glad to have seen Machu Picchu - a truly extraordinary site.
    Les mer

  • Calca and excursion to Lares

    13. desember 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After climbing down from Machu Picchu and just in time catching the train to Ollantaytambo, things happened fast. We hopped into a private car to Urubamba and then took a public bus to Calca, where we wanted to stay for a day or so to enjoy a not so touristy place in the Valle Sagrado. It was a top choice!

    We found a great little hostel owned and run by Ivan (San Francis hospedaje directly at the corner of the main square). Iwan was very hospitable and treated us to great coffee which he roasts and processes himself. We also got to know his dog chili and had enough space in the room to fix the leaky mattress - Bertram showing some serious repairman skills :-)

    He then advised us to go to Lares and enjoy the hot springs there. The best thing for us: camping on-site next to the pools was possible!

    Thus, we hurried across the market to get some food (again, with Iwan’s help) and boarded a minibus... only to wait 1.5 hours until it departed :-)

    Reaching Lares through an incredible mountain drive (highest point was 4,600m above sea level), we quickly pitched the tent and jumped into the water :-) Heaven!
    Les mer

  • Hiking up Huchuy Qosqo (3,700 masl)

    14. desember 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After seeing so much of the beautiful Andean mountains on the bus and at Lares, we combined a hike with a visit of “Little Cusco” = Huchuy Qosqo - Inca ruins that connect via mountain trails with Cusco.

    The hike was challenging but with great views. We can only hope that the Incas did not need to go up and down that often but stay on >3,000 masl and only walk in the mountains :-)))

    At the ruins, we spent roughly one hour resting and visiting the different sites. Once we were almost done, a local walked in on us and sold us tickets. We hope to have contributed to the local economy with our 14 soles (~4 euro).

    We then had dinner again at the amazing Carmen del Valle Restaurant which has huge filled avocados and other Peruvian specials. However, Bertram again escaped the roasted guinea pig... :-) The trout from the river was excellent, though!
    Les mer

  • Pisac - last ruins in the Valle Sagrado

    15. desember 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Time to say goodbye to Ivan and his dog Chili - but we are already thinking of coming back to Calca and the Sacred Valley one day, maybe for a multiday hike?!

    Taking the public bus to Pisac, we arrived around midday and started our hike up the ruins of Pisac. Again, there was much to see and admire about this Inca settlement. Contrary to Machu Picchu or Ollantaytambo, the ruins span a larger area and include everything:
    - farming terraces
    - military posts
    - outlook towers
    - temples (especially temple of the sun, Intiwatana)
    - living spaces/housing quarters

    It was a steep hike of >500m of altitude again (with a “tunnel” on ~3,500 masl ;-)) and we took about 3 hours to complete the round. It was quite windy on the mountain - Anna’s hair looked a but disheveled while Bertram’s hat kept the style :-)

    Then, we got some vegan cake for the journey and hopped on an almost full colectivo minibus ready to head to Cusco - yeah, no waiting time :-)

    Now, looking forward to some coffee and dinner at Rucula/Organika Restaurant in Cusco :-)
    Les mer

  • Dinner in Cusco

    15. desember 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We came back to Cusco for one final night before we head off to lake Titicaca tomorrow evening.

    As a closure to our time in Cusco and the surrounding Valle Sagrado we treated ourselves to a nice dinner (at “Rucula” restaurant). It is the sister restaurant to the one we visited on our last evening in Cusco and was equally tasty (and even nicer in terms if decoration).

    On the way to dinner we coincidentally met Corina and Lukas - two fellow hikers from our trip to the Ciudad Perdida in Colombia. What a pleasant surprise - we just happened to walk into each other on one of the squares in Cusco :-)
    Les mer

  • Last day in Cusco - off to Puno

    16. desember 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Not much happened today - we spent a pleasant day in Cusco, had amazing vegan food twice and hung around until now playing Jenga in the restaurant. But now it’s time to catch the night bus to Puno at Lake Titicaca :-)

    Also, we completed our shopping spree and are the proud owners of new alpaca sweaters (the good ones, not looking like tourists in Inca-pattern ponchos ;-)) The best purchase so far, however: our lama bracelets that we bought from a handcraft woman called Justina, sitting and working on these bracelets in the street who very kindly introduced herself to us. Much nicer than the insistent hawkers on Cusco‘s main square...
    Les mer

  • Lago Titicaca - Puno and Uros islands

    17. desember 2017, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    That was quick :-) we are already on the bus to Bolivia and spent only a half day (06:00-14:00 o’clock) on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca in Puno. It was a better than expected experience to visited the floating Uros islands. Let us explain!

    We had read that visiting the families living on these islands constructed from reed feels a bit like a “human zoo” as shiploads of tourists are brought on an Uros Island and then subjected to seeing how the people live and afterwards possibly buying their handcrafts.

    Our experience was a better one though, likely due to our ability to speak some Spanish. To begin with, we learned that a third of the ticket price was going to the community directly which was good in our opinion. After reaching “our” island called “Summa Willtja”, we were giving an introduction to the building technique by our guide and the island’s leader using a small model - really interesting and well done! Then each woman of the six families living on “our” island introduced herself and offered to show her house to some of us. We went with Maria and had a good conversation. For example, we learned that they are visited only once per week and all 90 islands take rotations to get tourists. In the meantime they work on handcrafted tapestries and reed figures - her grandparents were still fishermen but she said that there were now too few fish left to make a living from that, thus, they concentrate on tourism. In order to get food (apart from fishing for themselves and eating, yes, eating the reed - Bertram tried it as well and says it tastes like apple) they exchange some fish or money from tourism on the local market in Puno). We also learned that she has 2 kids who go to school on the school island Monday to Friday. We were then shown some of her work but did not buy anything due to our luggage restrictions :-)

    All in all, it is of course a touristy experience and, as Maria said herself, if it weren’t for the tourists, they would not live there anymore. However, it was great to have a conversation with them and be able to see how they cope with daily problems - and, for example, see their pride in having a new modern roof with 2 layers of reed and 1 layer of plastic in between. :-)
    In contrast to the Kogi indigenous people in Colombia, they were not just begging for sweets and posing for pictures. We are still wondering what to ultimately wish for as preservation of these cultures is really interesting, but it may keep people at a lower living standard. No easy answer...
    Les mer

  • Relaxing ar the Bolivian Copacabana

    18. desember 2017, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    After our brief pit stop in Puno and visiting the Uros Islands there, we moved on over the Peruvian-Bolivian border to stay at Copacabana, on the Bolivian coast of Lake Titicaca. The border crossing was interesting: you take a bus to the border, then you have to get off the bus, walk 100m across the border and then get back onto the bus. Not the most efficient procedure - but certainly convenient for the border police who don’t even have to get out of their checkpoint buildings.

    After the long journey and the overnight bus, we decided to invest a bit more into our stay at Copacabana. For $40 a night we stayed in a suite at a lovely hotel (Hotel Cupula), with our own little fireplace :-) The hotel also had a great garden with a slackline (so we didn’t need to put our own up :-)) and two lamas - time for Bertram’s first lama selfie :-)

    We spent the day relaxing and calling family and friends. Bertram learned, that he’ll be best man to Martin at his wedding in July - very happy about that :-)

    For a change, we decided not to hike up the nearby mountains :-) After Peru, we’re both a bit “hiked out” for the moment :-)
    Les mer

  • La Paz and onto the night bus to Uyuni

    19. desember 2017, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We left Copacabana refreshed after two very restful days. Today, we took the bus to La Paz and from there boarded the night bus to Uyuni.

    The journey to La Paz was again interesting. Copacabana is on a peninsula that is connected from Peru but not mainland Bolivia. So the entire bus had to go on a wooden raft while we rode across the lake with a little boat :-)

    We arrived in La Paz at about 5:30 pm. We didn’t see too much of La Paz (we only had 2,5 hours), but enough to see the lively central square and the unique cable car that connects various parts of the city. Plus, it is very impressive to see the city (at 3600 masl it is the highest capital in the world) surrounded by snow-covered mountains.

    There’s a lot of travelling in the next few days: from Uyuni, we plan to take a 3-4-day trip across the Uyuni desert and hopefully come out the other side at San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. (Google the Uyuni desert - it is famous for its visual tricks due to the reflecting salt lakes).

    From San Pedro de Atacama (where we plan to arrive on the 23rd) we will move on to Calama and from there (on the 24th), we will take a flight to Santiago to be there for Christmas.

    So, a lot of travelling but we’re looking forward to the experience (and to arrive in Santiago) :-)
    Les mer

  • Leaving for the Uyuni salt desert :-)

    20. desember 2017, Bolivia ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    We have found a hopefully nice tour operator called Quechua Experience (is was more expensive than rock-bottom ;-) and took all our Bolivianos) and are headed out to the 3-day/2-night trip now. Luckily it has stopped raining and the forecast is good for the coming days - though snow above 5,000 meters.

    Interestingly, we already got the stamp of leaving Bolivia today - dated for December 22 :-)

    Excited to go!
    Les mer